Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2013 i Bon Appetit

FIND, FOLLOW, AND CONNECT WITH US ONLINE NEW COLUMN: PRESERVED The Hashtag “What’s your favorite unusual burger topping?” @bonappetit “I’m a purist. Cheese definitely. And anchovy–Calabrian chili mayo.” @chefjeremyfox Jeremy Fox, executive chef, Rustic Canyon, Santa Monica, CA “Pickled grapes! (halved, w/crispy onions & American ‘cheese.’)” @TheLeeBros Matt Lee and Ted Lee, authors, The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen “Kimchi burger. One of my favorites! A little spice and tang is perfect on a fatty yummy meaty burger!” @StephAndTheGoat Stephanie Izard, chef and owner, Girl & the Goat and Little Goat PICKLED CORN Combine 2 small dried chiles, 1 seeded thinly sliced jalapeño, ¼ thinly sliced medium red onion, 2 cups corn kernels (from about 2 ears), ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves with tender stems, ¼ cup fresh lime juice, and…

The Chill Zone WHEN YOU CONSIDER THE RATIO OF “WOW” FACTOR to effort, few desserts rate higher than homemade ice cream. Just take some milk, cream, eggs, sugar, salt, and a vanilla bean, and with an inexpensive ice cream maker and 10 minutes of hands-on time, you can pretty much achieve superhero status. I have three serious vanilla fans in my family, so that’s what’s usually spinning at my house. Once you’ve mastered our recipe, go ahead and riff. Need a head start? We’ve included a couple of our favorite options on the next page. —ALLIE LEWIS CLAPP There’s nothing, um, vanilla about our homemade version of the classic. Of course, it also makes a great base for your favorite flavor upgrades. IT ALL STARTS HERE True Vanilla Ice Cream…

This month’s bounty of zucchini and other summer squash proves you can never have too much of a good thing. Here are three delicious ways to put it all to use SQUASH AND TOMATO GRATIN “A crunchy, cheesy topping gives squash big flavor and texture.” —Chris Morocco, associate food editor Toss 1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs with 1/3 cup grated Parmesan and 2 Tbsp. olive oil; season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a medium ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 sliced large tomato; cook, tossing occasionally, until juices are bubbling, about 4 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Top with 2 thinly sliced large summer squash and breadcrumb mixture. Bake at 350°‹ until squash is tender and breadcrumbs are golden brown,…

SHOP THE CROP All produce is not created equal. Here’s how to buy the healthiest of the bunch FARMERS’ MARKETS ARE overflowing. You’re polishing off berries by the carton and enjoying tomatoes out of hand. In other words, you’re probably already eating healthfully this time of year. But you can do better. Much better. If you know how to shop smartly, you can reap even more benefits from that tote bag full of fruits and vegetables. That’s because not all produce is equally nutritious: For example, some varieties of tomatoes have nearly 20 times more cancer-preventing lycopene than others. By scouring more than a thousand food-science journals for my new book, Eating on the Wild Side, I learned what to look for at farmers’ markets and supermarkets, from general guidelines—the…

FAMILY MEAL Here at Bri, our ideal Summer, evening means dinner on the beach so we called a bunch of friends-in this case. four families who head to Amaganseti on Long Island They are, from left, Rub magnatia, Wnnie beattic, Enzo magnotia, Leilani Bishop luber, Athena Calderone, jack luber, philip camposano, Lily Ives, and leonard and Juliane Camposano 1 First, check the park rules. You want to be sure you can set up tables and start a fire. 2 Choose food that travels well. Ideally, you want makea-head dishes that are easy to pack and are great at room temperature. And remember: That thermos can keep soup cool, too. 3 But ut don’t make it all ahead. Store components that might require last-minute tossing in separate containers or resealable plastic…

FIRST, BUY THE RIGHT TOOLS Because that bag of produce won’t chop itself, here’s how to equip your kitchen for the movement, courtesy of the BA Test Kitchen 1 PEELER We swear by the Y-shaped Kuhn Rikon model: It’s inexpensive and sharp, and offers good control. $4; williams-sonoma.com 2 STEAMER BASKET Steaming is (still) a great way to coax out flavor while retaining nutrients. Choose a no-frills collapsible basket. $8; sears.com 3 MANDOLINE A necessity for getting paper-thin slices of veg. The easy-to-use, easy-to-store Benriner is our favorite. $65; surlatable.com 4 BRUSH You don’t always have to peel. This handheld Chef’n brush is nimbler than long-handled models. $7, kitchenkapers.com 5 PARING KNIFE For detail work—separating broccoli florets, trimming mushrooms—a cook’s paring knife is essential. $10, worldknives.com 6 COMPOST CONTAINER Put…

WATER WORKS FROM P. 83 Tomato water, the liquid that seeps from the ripe flesh after it’s been cut, is as fragrant and intensely flavored as the fruit itself. A spoonful or two of the translucent juices will hop up a cocktail or transform a vinaigrette; larger amounts can be stirred into a tomato risotto that tastes like pure summer. It’s a great use for very ripe or bruised specimens (which are often less expensive at the farmers’ market), or whenever you have more tomatoes than you know what to do with. So go ahead, buy as many as you can carry. —CARLA LALLI MUSIC WE’RE OBSESSED You know that bitter, bright pink Italian aperitivo? Nope, not Campari. It’s Sanbitter, a nonalcoholic soda that’s acceptable to drink before noon and…

LAST SUMMER, MY WIFE AND I decided to get all grown-up and rent a beach house. We settled on one in Montauk, on the far end of Long Island. It had a screened-in porch and a big gas grill next to a not-so-big pool, and I suppose you could say that it was close enough to the beach that the drive to the shore didn’t feel so long. So, no, it wasn’t some Hamptons-esque dream house, but it was a house. And after years of bunking in Montauk motels with damp, sandy carpets, we finally had a place that we could call our own. We settled into a rhythm. Each morning, I’d cruise into town for an iced red eye and the chance to breeze through the sports page. Some…

Let’s start with the basics: What’s your approach to eating? I hate women who say they can eat whatever they want, because I don’t relate to that at all. It isn’t fair! I absolutely live for food. Favorite meal of the day? I didn’t grow up in a traditional family and I never had a family dinner around the table, so whenever I actually had a dinner “plan,” it meant a lot to me; it made me feel excited and safe. And now that I’m an adult, dinner is a great pleasure. How did you start cooking? I became obsessed with food sometime in the last decade. I’m pretty late to the game. I’m such an avid magazine reader—music, art, beauty magazines—and I found that food and restaurants were pouring…

The Family Road Trip Returns…Tiny High Life…You Call That a Knife?… The Vacation Menu STAY COLD, PONY BEER Why Smaller Drinks Better I’ve got a thing for beer in tiny bottles, especially this time of year—so much so that Miller High Life ponies, the seven-ounce guys, are standard at any Foodist party. Why? They chill down quickly, they finish fast so they never get warm, and even non–beer drinkers go in for one. You might call them cute, too. THE 114-WORD RANT I took the car trips of my youth for granted, especially when it came to the food we ate along the way: fried pork rinds, real beef jerky, and peaches so juicy you’d need to change your shirt after eating one. Man, how things have changed. It’s awful…

A COOLER COOKOUT Refresh the classic backyard burgers-and-dogs barbecue with homemade condiments (hello, kimchi spread), fresh sides, and D.I.Y. ice cream sandwiches BURGERS AND HOT DOGS are a backyard ritual we turn to again and again. And again. It’s time to rethink the formula. We’re not ditching the ketchup and mustard, but we are bringing in new company, like a spicy serrano mayo and a crunchy broccoli slaw. Show your guests they’re not at last summer’s barbecue anymore. The BA Burger Deluxe ACTIVE 20 MINUTES TOTAL 25 MINUTES 8 SERVINGS For step-by-step photos on how to form the perfect patty, tricks for grilling it, and one more special sauce, go to bonappetit.com/go/BAburger. 3 lb. ground beef chuck (20% fat) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 8 slices American cheese (optional) 8…

1 CHAI BLOSSOM Juan Coronado MINIBAR Washington, D.C. Combine 2 chai tea bags and 1 cup boiling water in a small bowl; cover and let sit 8-10 minutes. Add Vi cup sugar; stir to dissolve. Discard tea bags and let cool. Stir chai syrup and 1/2 cup fresh lime juice in a pitcher to combine. Divide among 4 rocks glasses filled with ice and add 2-3 oz. club soda to each. Garnish with whole star anise pods and lemon twists. Makes 4 2 CELERY COLLINS Thomas Waugh CARBONE NVC Puree 4 chopped celery stalks and VA cup water in a blender. Strain into a pitcher filled with ice, pressing on solids; discard solids. Add 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice, !4 cup Simple Syrup (see recipe below), and 1/4 tsp. Bittermens…

photographs by ESTER GRASS VERGARA New Heirloom Made from handloomed, super-durable linen in a design that telegraphs Euro chic. “Mykolas” linen towel, $140; anichini.com Fresh Prints Artist Caroline Hurley block-prints more than a dozen versions of these playful linens. “Pick Up Sticks Pink” throw, $150; carolinezhurley.com Corner Pocket Stash your loot in the secret compartment; fill the corner pockets with sand to keep things in place. Block-dyed linen blanket, $275; brooklyn-beach.com Turkish Wrap This colorful hammam-style cotton towel gets softer (and prettier) with every post-picnic wash. “Small Stripes” Fouta towel, $68; scentsandfeel.com Throw Down This lightweight, Indian-made striped cotton throw looks as breezy on the sand as it does on a sofa. Khadi Indigo, $100; johnrobshaw.com…

Giada De Laurentiis is not as innocent as she appears. Especially in L.A.’s Koreatown, where she gets stark naked with strangers. “I have a ritual with my sister and aunt,” explains the Giada at Home host, who’ll publish her seventh cookbook, Feel Good Food, in November. “We go to Aroma Spa & Sports for a body scrub. It’s super affordable, and you can’t wear anything because they scrub you from head to toe and flip you over like a piece of meat. It’s invigorating, and mentally, I think it’s really good for me. It’s helped me become more comfortable with who I am.” After, they have Korean barbecue: “I’ve never made Korean food. I think that’s why I enjoy it more at a restaurant. It’s foreign and exciting.” So, is…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, NO COCKTAIL IS MORE REFRESHING THAN THE GINGER-SPIKED JULEP FROM RIVER OAKS RESTAURANT IN MEMPHIS. SHARE THE SECRET, PLEASE! PEACH JULEP 4 SERVINGS Good ginger beers are made with actual ginger and deliver a nosetingling hit of spice along with bubbles. Look for Fever-Tree, Reed’s, or Fentimans brands. GINGER SYRUP 1 1"-piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced 1 whole cardamom pod, cracked ¼ cup sugar ASSEMBLY 2 ripe peaches, peeled, sliced 8 sprigs mint plus more for garnish 8 oz. bourbon 4 oz. fresh lemon juice 12 oz. ginger beer GINGER SYRUP Bring ginger, cardamom, sugar, and ¼ cup water to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar. Let cool, then strain into a jar. Cover and chill. ASSEMBLY For each cocktail, muddle ¼ of…

The Gin and Tonic is swinging again, thanks to new distillers who have made gin cool. (Plus, it’s easier to find lesssugary tonic water full of zippy bubbles.) We might even catch up to Spain, where takes on the Gin Tónica—think herbs, spices, citrus—are a national obsession. The upshot? There’s never been a better time to drink this summer refresher. GIN & TONIC Add 2 oz. gin (preferably Tanqueray) to a highball glass filled with ice. Squeeze in 1–3 lime wedges to taste, then add them to glass. Add 3–4 oz. tonic water; stir to combine. Makes 1 The New Standard JOSÉ’S GIN & TONIC THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS, Miami Combine 1 lime wheel, 1 strip lemon zest (removed with a vegetable peeler), 1 lemon verbena leaf, 3 juniper…

Pickled Nectarine Salad with Burrata ACTIVE 15 MINUTES TOTAL 25 MINUTES 4 SERVINGS Ripe peaches can be used in place of the nectarines; choose whatever looks (and smells) best. 2 nectarines, thinly sliced ¼ small red onion, thinly sliced ¼ cup white wine vinegar 1 tsp. sugar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 4 cups mixed bitter greens (such as arugula and mizuna) 1 cup fresh mint leaves 2 Tbsp. olive oil plus more for drizzling 8 oz. burrata or fresh mozzarella, cut or torn into 1" pieces Toss nectarines, onion, vinegar, and sugar in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Let sit 10 minutes. Pour off pickling liquid from nectarines and onion, reserving liquid. Add greens, mint, 2 Tbsp. oil, and 2–3 Tbsp. reserved liquid; toss to combine.…

SEATTLE SHINES THERE’S NO BETTER TIME than right now to visit Seattle—and we’re not just talking about the weather. The city’s chefs are tapping into a casually brilliant dining trend that focuses on clean, bright fare made with produce from local farms and briny treasures from the sea. Seattle’s oldest neighborhood, Pioneer Square, is the newest culinary epicenter. But no matter where you wander, there are incredible flavors to pair with all that sunshine. BAR SAJOR Matthew Dillon’s new space [1], with its windows vaulting skyward and punky-rococo wall hangings, is downright churchlike. Its altar is definitely the wood-burning oven, where rib eyes are burnished to perfection. The rest of the menu celebrates Northwestern bounty: Quillayute River king salmon gravlax on rye [2], or a cocktail of huckleberries and aquavit.…

HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD WITH PICKLED FENNEL 6 SERVINGS The flavor of the spiced pickled fennel really pops with the sweet tomatoes. PICKLED FENNEL 1 whole star anise pod 1 tsp. aniseed 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. fennel seeds ¼ tsp. cumin seeds ¼ lemongrass stalk, tough outer layer removed, crushed Zest of ¼ orange, removed with a vegetable peeler 1 medium fennel bulb, cored, thinly sliced 1 1/2½ cups unseasoned rice vinegar ½ cup sugar 2 Tbsp. kosher salt ASSEMBLY 2 lb. large heirloom tomatoes (about 3), cut into wedges 1 cup cherry tomatoes, preferably heirloom, halved 2 Tbsp. white balsamic or Sherry vinegar 7 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 Cubanelle peppers or Anaheim chiles, sliced into ¾" rings, seeded Fennel fronds (for…

Oil-Poached Tuna Naiad Instead of using canned tuna, this recipe puts you in control of the quality of the tuna and how long to cook it. We like it on the medium-rare side. 1 cup dried flageolet or navy beans, soaked overnight, drained, or one 15-oz. can navy beans, rinsed Kosher salt 1 Ib. green and/or wax beans 3 cups olive oil 2 sprigs rosemary 2 garlic cloves 4 4-oz. bigeyeor albacore tuna steaks (about 1" thick) Freshly ground black pepper 4 anchovies packed in oil, drained, finely chopped 1 small shallot, finely chopped 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1/4 cup (or more) fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill plus small sprigs for serving 1 cup small Sun Gold or cherry tomatoes, halved…