Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2013 i Bon Appetit

FIND, FOLLOW, AND CONNECT WITH US ONLINE THE HASHTAG Summer is here, which means outdoor-cooking season is in full swing. To celebrate, we asked some pros to take a stand on that hotly contested, age-old question: "What's the #bestbbq in the country?" “Whole-hog smoked pork from PIG WHISTLE IN FAYETTEVILLE, NC.” @andreareusing Andrea Reusing, Lantern, Chapel Hill, NC “SALT LICK IN AUSTIN for Texas-style BBQ and the best sausage in the country. And anything from Mike Mills. because of the gentle applewood smoke on his baby-back ribs. It makes for a really balanced rib.” @chefsymon Michael Symon, The Chew “Hey @bonappetit! Shout-out to PODNAH’S PIT up the street @podnahsbbq: 1/2 rack spareribs, white bread and slaw, plus jalapehos & onion.” @NaomiPomeroy Naomi Pomeroy, Beast, Portland, OR “OKLAHOMA JOE'S IN KANSAS…

YOU KNOW THE R RULE? The one that says you should only eat oysters in months with the letter r? Ignore it. Grilled oysters, the fire concentrating their briny flavor, are my barbecue go-to. Here’s how to make them yours: Buy a few dozen oysters (you want big ones that won’t dry out). Once your grill hits medium-high, fill the grate with as many bivalves, cupped side down, as will fit. Cover, and half a beer later (about two minutes), the shells pop open. That’s it; they’re done. Transfer to a platter, remove the top shells, and slurp away. I serve mine with hot sauce, but a dab of herb butter works, too. Repeat. And crack another beer. It’s summer. —ANDREW KNOWLTON Find our recipe for herb butter at bonappetit.com/go/herbbutter…

In a summery risotto, a cooling gazpacho, and a seasonal dessert, honeysweet cantaloupe goes way beyond fruit salad CANTALOUPE GAZPACHO Ryan Lowder, The Copper Onion, Salt Lake City: “The cantaloupes we get here are really sweet, so we counter that with savory flavors.” Puree 1 medium cantaloupe (peeled, seeded, chopped), 1 small cucumber (peeled, chopped), 2 Tbsp. chopped red onion, 2 tsp. kosher salt and 1/3 cup water in a blender until smooth. With motor running, drizzle in 1/2 cup extravirgin olive oil; season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve gazpacho chilled, topped with thinly sliced fresh mint. 6 servings MELON AND PROSCIUTTO RISOTTO Cassy Vires, Home Wine Kitchen, St. Louis: “I like to take a classic pairing and turn it on its head.” Bring 6 cups…

Pasta with Tomatoes and Mozzarella ACTIVE 10 MINUTES TOTAL 25 MINUTES 6 SERVINGS This dish is equally good at room temperature (read: picnics). 1 garlic clove, halved 2 lb. tomatoes, chopped 8 oz. fresh mozzarella, cut or torn into ½" pieces ½ cup coarsely chopped fresh basil ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 lb. medium shell-shaped or other short pasta Rub the inside of a medium bowl with garlic; discard garlic. Combine tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, and oil in bowl; season with salt and pepper and toss to combine. Let tomato mixture sit 15 minutes to let flavors meld. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente; drain. Add pasta to tomato mixture and toss to combine. DO…

WITH SPARKLING CANALS peerless museums, and a uniquely permissive culture, Amsterdam has always been an easy sell. The food, however, has been a different story. For years, the city’s restaurants offered little beyond fusty fine dining, lackluster steak-and-pasta joints, and vending-machine croquettes with indeterminable fillings. Recently, though, an adventurous sense of fun has joined the table, informed partly by the casual-setting/serious-cooking ethos that’s transformed many American restaurants. A new food culture is emerging, rooted in Dutch ingredients and shaped by the creative imaginations of chefs trained in (and bored with) Continental standbys. The result is a genuinely exciting eating destination, a city that’s launching a new culinary tradition of its own. It’s about time. MORNING GLORY The year-old Little Collins is Amsterdam’s first bona fide brunch mecca. In a tile-and-concrete…

On Oahu’s North Shore, musician Jack Johnson and chef Ed Kenney throw a beach party with family, farmers, surfers (yes, that’s Kelly Slater), and the freshest, most delicious food in Hawaii WE’RE AT MA‘O ORGANIC FARMS with chef Ed Kenney and musician Jack Johnson and his wife, Kim, picking carrots, tangerines, and kale for the Hawaiian beach party they’re throwing the next day. It’s pretty idyllic here on the island of Oahu—misty rainbows, swaying palms, every shade of green—until plans go slightly awry. Jack learns that steak is on the menu and gently puts his foot down. He prefers not to eat meat. In fact, he’d feel a whole lot more comfortable if it wasn’t served at all—if that’s okay? The news, delivered as respectfully as a menu request could…

FIRST COMES THE FAT like butter’s big brother, sent out with your bread. Then comes a broth made from the bones, so rich it coats your throat, leaving the tiniest bite of salt at the back. Finally, several courses later, there are actual slices of rib eye, some rare and tender, some cooked crisp. The meat has an indelible flavor. It plays hide-and-seek—here a flash of woody musk, there a hum of sweetness, and then: cheese, ripe cheese. Alongside, there is a maitake, the meatiest of mushrooms, charred in beef fat, and a jus so dark it’s borderline evil. It’s a poem of a steakhouse. Except you’re not at a steakhouse. This is how Daniel Humm does steak at Eleven Madison Park, the ambitious tasting menu–only spot in New York…

WHENEVER I’M GOING TO GRILL, the first thing I usually do is pick up the phone and call Maria. She runs things down at Florence Prime Meat Market, a tiny butcher shop on a side street in Greenwich Village. Screen door, sawdust on the floor, been open since 1936. Benny Pizzuco, a longtime butcher, owns it, but Maria is the one behind the counter, surrounded by a bunch of guys with thick forearms, standing over big, worn-down butcher blocks, carbon-steel knives in hand. My order is almost always the same: dry-aged, thick-cut rib steaks, bone in. And however many people I tell Maria I’m having over, she usually portions out enough for two more. Some folks would call this upselling, but when the meat is this tasty, I don’t argue.…

When life moves outside, don’t leave style behind. Deck out your lawn or, um, deck with our picks and you may never go back in KING ME This teak lounger is a reissue of Swedish King Gustav VI Adolf’s favorite chair. Make it your throne this summer. H55 easy chair, $685; dwr.com RUBBER DUB Leave the boom box in the basement: This tiny rechargeable speaker is Bluetooth-enabled, so you can broadcast music from your phone or computer. Six bright colors mean it’ll never get lost in the grass. WOW speaker, $75; neo-utility.com BURNING, MAN Do S’mores taste better when you toast the marshmallows over a fire made in a bold and pricey modernist sculpture? Text us when you find out. Urbanfire wood-burning fireplace, $1,350; modfire.com “Fire pits are a great…

POUR OF THE MOMENT For refreshing cocktails on the fly, I’m combining a few ounces of booze with Q Drinks’ new line of not-too-sweet flavored bubbly waters. Try a bottle of the grapefruit with tequila and a squeeze of lime over ice. Repeat all summer long. (Below, from left: orange, lemon, grapefruit.) Never been to Portland, OR, one of America’s most exciting food cities? Feast Portland is your ultimate excuse. Join Bon Appétit and a who’s who of the country’s best chefs at the four-day event, September 19–22. Tickets are on sale at feastportland.com. (I WANT TO) EAT HERE NOW These three new smoked-meat spots are on my summer short list. Anyone up for a road trip? JOHN MUELLER MEAT CO. Austin Good barbecue means long lines. That’s no big…

WHAT YOU'LL NEED FOR TEXAS-STYLE SMOKED BRISKET 12–16 SERVINGS Ingredients 1 10.12-lb. whole beef brisket, fat trimmed to 1/4" thickness 1/3 cup kosher salt 1/3 cup freshly ground black pepper Equipment > A gas grill with a full tank of propane and a drip tray > 8 cups all-natural hardwood chips, preferably hickory, for smoking > A smoker box > A grill or analog thermometer (we recommend it even if your grill has one) IN TEXAS barbecue is about beef: specifically brisket, the cut by which any joint is judged. Brisket has become a favorite of restaurant chefs, too, hence the smoke ribbons and Hank Williams songs drifting out of restaurants as far away as Brooklyn. But can great brisket be made at home? I devoted a weekend to the…

Like burgers and dogs or a rack of ribs, grilled chicken is a rite of summer. Whether skewered, flattened, brined, spiced, or upended on a beer can, there are lots (and lots) of ways to do it right. Here are the ones worth squawking about 1 BUY A GOOD BIRD It’s pretty straightforward: Quality chickens are more delicious. Look for those that are antibiotic-free; extra points for going organic and local. The BA Test Kitchen relies on Bell & Evans and Murray’s. Make the Chicken Under a Brick (above; recipe on page 67) and taste for yourself. 2 GET YOUR GRILL GOING The recipes in this story call for two kinds of heat: direct, for smaller pieces ike thighs and wings, and indirect, for whole birds, as in the Beer-Can…

Wait, What Exactly Is Rosé? There are two ways to make rosé. Saignée (sen-YAY, or “bled”) is the practice of “bleeding off” lightly tinted juice after a brief maceration with the grapes. Since wine’s color comes from the skins, the longer you “steep” the grape, the darker and more tannic the rosé gets. The second (and usually less respected) way is to simply blend white wine with red to make pink. MADE IN THE USA Are you a Pinot freak? If so, you’ll love California Pinot Noir rosés (Sonoma County versions are a good place to start). Not only do you get crisp brightness and warm spice in the glass, you’ll also get a (much) more affordable expression of this pricey varietal. Drink: Cep 2012 Pinot Noir Rosé Russian River…

TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN GRILLER INSTINCT FROM P. 66 No matter what you’re grilling this summer, build a two-zone fire. This means the coals are banked to one side of the grill, giving you a hot zone and a cooler area—and the flexibility to tackle any recipe. Direct heat is good for quick-cooking ingredients, like thin chops, chicken wings, or sliced vegetables. Use the hottest area, concentrated above the coals. Flare-ups? Shift to the other side. The cooler zone allows indirect heat to circulate around a larger cut, like a whole chicken or the brisket on page 42. Place the meat or fish away from the coals and cook with the lid on, creating an oven-like environment. You’ll get smoky flavor without the char.…

READERS’ FAVORITE RESTAURANT RECIPES DEAR BON APPÉTIT HOW CAN I MAKE AN AT-HOME VERSION OF THE AMAZING WHOLE BRANZINO FROM BROOKLYN’S TALDE? —PHILIP WARDNER Brooklyn BRANZINO WITH HERBS AND TOMATO JAM 4 SERVINGS For a video and step-by-step photos on making the parchment packet, visit bonappetit.com/go/parchment. TOMATO JAM ¼ cup vegetable oil 3 Tbsp. yellow mustard seeds 1 Tbsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. ground cardamom 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 Tbsp. chopped peeled ginger ¼ cup fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc nam) ¼ cup sugar 1 Tbsp. ground turmeric 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 4 beefsteak tomatoes (about 2 lb.), coarsely chopped 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper BRANZINO 4 1-lb. whole branzino, cleaned Kosher salt, freshly…

So, you have an “alterego” Twitter feed that chronicles what you eat [@NPHFoodPorn]. Have you always been obsessed? In my 20s, I mostly ate burritos and nachos, with the occasional burger. It was my better half, David [Burtka], who made me adventurous. Do you have guilty pleasures? In-N-Out burgers. But not too often. I have to watch my girlish figure. David is a classically trained chef who worked at Babbo. What’s the best thing he cooks? He makes a Babbo-ish Bolognese: Fresh pasta is key, and a sauce with veal, pork, pancetta, and San Marzano tomatoes, finished with butter. That may be my meal if I was gonna get in the electric chair. Do you help out much in the kitchen? I’m the sous and the dishwasher. Someone’s gotta do…

WHEN WE WERE KIDS summer camp taught us a couple of basic life lessons: (1) Kool-Aid stains do not come out easily, while Cheetos stains somehow do; and (2) on overnight trips, when the counselors “hang out” by the campfire at night, they are not just “hanging out” by the campfire. Things are a little different with our girls, who came home from day camp last summer, walked into the kitchen with a bunch of recipes, and asked, “Can we make dinner tonight?” The menu: squash fritters with Korean dipping sauce and apricot crumble for dessert. Who were these kids, and what the heck had happened? Well, they’d been lucky enough to attend Farm Camp, run by the Stone Barns Center in Pocantico Hills, New York. You might know it…

THE FIRST TIME WE NESTLED eggplant directly into a bed of hot coals, it felt dangerous. It was an early summer night, the first of many alfresco dinners that year, and we were christening a new grill. When the big pile of hardwood charcoal had burned down to a bed of glowing coals dusted with white ash, we put three whole eggplants with thick, dark-purple skin right into the embers. And then we held our breath. Would they char into carbon shells, or would they explode all over the garden? And so we waited, listening to them whistle as their skins blistered and blackened, and watching as they slowly collapsed into themselves. After just ten minutes, we carefully lifted them out and put them on a rack set over a…

BLACKBERRY GRANITA 6 SERVINGS if you have a metal baking pan, use it; it will chill the mixture faster than a glass one. And remove the granita from the freezer when you scrape it—too much cold air will escape if you do this while the door’s hanging open. GRANITA 4 cups blackberries (about 18 oz.) ½ cup sugar 1 Tbsp. crème de cassis (black-currant liqueur; optional) 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Pinch of kosher salt LEMON CREAM AND ASSEMBLY 1/2 cup mascarpone 1/4 cup heavy cream 2 Tbsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1/8 tsp. vanilla extract 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus more for garnish 1 1/3 cups blackberries (about 6 oz.), cut in half crosswise GRANITA Purée blackberries, sugar, crème de cassis, if using, lemon juice,…

I MAGINE IF YOU RAN the country’s most esteemed seafood restaurant and you kept a house just off the teeming waters between Long Island’s picturesque North and South Forks. What’s for dinner would be obvious, right? Well, yes. Unless, of course, you were Eric Ripert, chef and co-owner of New York’s Michelin-starred Le Bernardin. When Ripert retreats to his weekend home in Sag Harbor, there is nothing fancy, nor aquatic, about most of his meals. No emulsions or nages, no bisques or crudos. Turns out that the 48-year-old Frenchman is like most Americans: He loves to grill steak. He just does it differently than we do. Ripert spent his youth in Andorra, the tiny country wedged between Spain and France, and one of the regional cooking traditions that stayed with…

Before Stephen King became America’s foremost master of fear, selling some 350 million books, he was just a young guy whose wife cooked him dinner. “There’s a long-running joke that I married Tabitha because we were poor, and she came with a typewriter,” King says. “But it’s really because of the fish that she cooked for me.” Four decades later, simplicity still reigns at their table, though brain food means dessert. “I have a son who swears by crème brûlée and always eats it before he writes. For me, it’s cheesecake. I also love baking bread. It makes the house smell wonderful.” The diet delivers results (his novel, Under the Dome, is now airing as a CBS TV series, and his sequel to The Shining hits shelves in September). However,…