Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2013 i Bon Appetit

FIND, FOLLOW, AND CONNECT WITH US ONLINE IT’S VINE TIME! Yes, we’re also obsessed with Vine, the social-media app dedicated to the art of six-second videos. Log in and follow us at @Bon Appetit Magazine to watch mini cooking lessons, like this one for superfast pickled vegetables: COOK THE COVER Are you an amateur chef-slash-photographer who loves BA’s mouthwatering covers? Cook up one of our cover recipes at home, then snap a beautiful photo and e-mail it to askba@bonappetit.com. Your image could be featured on bonappetit.com. CHAT IT UP Got a cooking question for a pro? Join a live Facebook Q&A with food experts from Bon Appétit. Here’s an excerpt from a recent session with family-dinner guru, BA contributing editor, cookbook author, and blogger Jenny Rosenstrach, of Dinner: A Love…

This glass dispenser makes refills easy ($50; cb2.com). THE BASIC BREW UPGRADED Stuck on sun tea? Our test kitchen took a cue from coffee fanatics and made a batch of tea cold-brew style, steeping it in the fridge instead. The result? Mellower, more flavorful, and perfect for those rainy days, too. COLD-BREW ICED TEA Combine 10 black tea bags and 8 cups cold water in a large pitcher. Cover; chill at least 4 hours. Discard tea bags. Server over ice with lemon slices. 8 servings SPICE IT THAI-STYLE ICED TEA Spiced tea and sweetened condensed milk are the keys here. Combine 10 star anise pods, 3 Tbsp. sugar, and 1 cup water in a small saucepan, Scrape in seeds from 1 vanilla bean; add bean. Bring to a boil, reduce…

WHAT’S ON ANDREW KNOWLTON’S PLATE (AND MIND) THIS MONTH Long Live the PB&J…In the Weeds… Charleston’s Latest Can’t-Miss Spot…The Noble Quart Container WEEDS OF THE MOMENT In the past year, I’ve eaten enough weeds to fill a decent-size compost bin. Chefs, always on the search for the next cult ingredient, are now looking in their backyards. Purslane, which grows in the sidewalk cracks near my apartment, was huge last year. My pick for this summer’s breakout greens? Here are three. TREND ALERT From warnings (“Raw meat”!) to shout-outs (“Thanks to our farmers...”) to “V” for vegan, menu footnotes are everywhere these days. One I’m noticing more and more? “GF” for gluten-free. I grew up on peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, but I fear they’re becoming extinct. On my daughter’s first…

Oh, Snap! The BA Test Kitchen takes on green beans, the first bumper crop of the summer GRILLED GREEN BEANS AND PEACHES “Paris chef Alain Passard, who is famous for unusual pairings, inspired this dish.” —Chris Morocco, associate food editor Toss 2 peaches (cut into ½" wedges) and 1 lb. trimmed green beans with 2 Tbsp. olive oil; season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cook in a grill pan or in a skillet over high heat, tossing often, until beans are crisp-tender and peaches are lightly charred, 8–10 minutes. Toss with 2 Tbsp. toasted slivered almonds and 1 Tbsp. Sherry vinegar. 4 servings GREEN BEAN TEMPURA “Battering and frying green beans makes them addictive, obviously!” —Sue Li, recipe developer Whisk 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour and 12…

PICNIC IN PROVENCE Transport the flavors of France to the park or beach with this delicious movable feast RECIPES BY MARY-FRANCE SHECK IT’S OFFICIALLY eat-outdoors season. The time of year when you break out your blankets and totes, and remember that food and wine actually taste better when there’s sun on your face and a gentle breeze rustling your napkin. This menu channels Provence, but it’s not all lavender fields and South of France romance: It’s practical, too, with tasty dishes that all travel well, can be made in advance, and don’t need to be served hot. So start packing. And don’t forget the sunscreen. Roast Provençal Chicken ACTIVE 15 MINUTES TOTAL 1¼ HOURS 6 SERVINGS Bigger picnic? Simply roast two birds at the same time. 2 garlic cloves, finely…

SAY HELLO TO A COOLER KITCHEN Bright Spot These blown-glass spheres come in more than two dozen vivid colors. 28 Series pendants, from $745; bocci.ca for stores NEW REGENCY Channel your inner ’40s starlet with this lavish update of the Hollywood Regency style. The key is in the mix: bold, art deco–inspired shapes and over-the-top metallics, with the occasional natural material to keep the mood grounded. Mug Shot You’ve perfected your pour-over Now, about that cup? Michael Graves for JCPenney, $30 for set of two; jcp.com Conversation Opener Up the bling factor with an outrageously bejeweled bottle opener $425; kellywearstler.com Natural Touch A bone-handled serving fork is a good contrast to luxe metallics. “Natural Bone,” $45 for two-piece set; restorationhardware.com Love Handle A refined way to glam up a pantry…

BEFORE WE GET STARTED: LEARN YOUR HERBS! Here’s a breakdown of the tender greens we put to work on the following pages —DEBORAH MADISON Mix Your Greens The next time you’re serving a salad, add some herbs. Think of them as you would any other green; toss handfuls of dill, mint, basil, and more into peppery leaves like arugula, mizuna, or mustard greens, all of which are assertive enough to allow the herbal notes to shine without overpowering the dish. Top it all off with grilled steak, pork, or chicken, and you’ve got a perfect summer supper. STEAK SALAD WITH HERBS 1 shallot, thinly sliced crosswise, separated into rings ¼ cup red wine vinegar ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 medium eggplant, cut…

bRUNELLO CUCINELLI likes his food just as he does his clothing: elegant, simple, and impeccably well made. “I could live on bread and oil,” he confesses with pride as he strolls through Solomeo, the medieval hilltop village that the designer has restored as his company’s headquarters. Granted, that saltless Umbrian bread is made from flour that was milled nearby and served with Cucinelli’s own extra-virgin oil, pressed from a local olive cultivar. But when you’re the king of Italian cashmere, even the basics are beautiful. Despite his global success— 81 stores worldwide and a recent public stock offering—Cucinelli craves Umbrian comfort food. It’s the fare that his grandmother cooked on his family’s nearby farm, like pasta tossed in a basic tomato sauce, pancetta roasted over a fire, and local fruit…

I’LL HAVE WHAT SHE’S HAVING EDITING A MAGAZINE IS a lot like being a husband: You think you’re always right, but when you’re wrong, you often end up happier. My wife and I moved in together six years ago, and she immediately set out to remake what had been my apartment. The red “accent” wall I thought was so daring became chocolate brown—and, I have to admit, a lot smarter looking. The pair of electric guitars hanging in my (excuse me, our) living room? Yeah, those came down and up went art. Like, real art, with frames and stuff. What was a clichéd bachelor pad quickly matured into a home—a stylish and comfortable one. When it came to the kitchen, well, cooking was my domain. There might as well have…

The Kindest Cuts This summer, we’re bullish on big flavor, small-ticket steaks like flank, hanger, and skirt—and BA’s new grilling book (of course) If you’ve eyeballed the price of a rib eye lately, you’ll understand our obsession with the collection of affordable steaks known as butcher’s cuts (see right). These hunks of protein also boast a rich, beefy taste and a versatility that many pricier cuts just don’t have, standing up to bold marinades and herby sauces. For recipes using butcher’s cuts—and tons more information on everything from rubs to ribs to cocktails—check out our new tome, The Grilling Book: The Definitive Guide from Bon Appétit. THE TECHNIQUES To make the most of these cuts, The Grilling Book recommends four key moves: 1 TENDERIZE A strong, acidic marinade will help…

FATHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE Who’s Your Daddy? …and more important, what does he want for Father’s Day? For inspiration, we asked the dads at BA for their wish list 1 EGG MAN The Big Green Egg “‘Slow and low/That is the tempo,’ quoth the Beastie Boys. It’s an apt mantra for this combo grill/smoker. To which I’d add: ‘Ceramic and green,/I want this sweet machine./Parenting is hard and I get no pay,/Don’t I deserve one this Father’s Day?’” —Adam Sachs, the Obsessivore Starting at $559; biggreenegg.com for stores 2 COFFEE CRAVING Le Creuset French Press “I already own a perfectly functional French press, but for an unrepentant coffee addict, perfectly functional just doesn’t cut it.” —Andy Ward, contributing editor $60; lecreuset.com 3 GRIDDLE ME THIS Lodge Pro Iron Griddle “Dads…

Spiced Salmon Kebabs ACTIVE 25 MINUTES TOTAL 25 MINUTES 4 SERVINGS Here’s a little trick: Thread salmon pieces onto two skewers so they don’t flip and spin every time you turn them on the grill. 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano 2 tsp. sesame seeds 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 ½ lb. skinless salmon fillet (preferably wild), cut into 1" pieces 2 lemons, very thinly sliced into rounds 2 Tbsp. olive oil SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 16 bamboo skewers soaked in water 1 hour Prepare grill for medium heat. Mix oregano, sesame seeds, cumin, salt, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl to combine; set spice mixture aside. Beginning and ending with salmon, thread salmon and folded lemon slices onto 8 pairs of…

MEXICO CITY’S MOMENT Mexico City can evoke several of the world’s top food cities at once. The cultural mashup of Istanbul’s markets, the chaotic crush of Bangkok’s street vendors, the elegance and tradition of Paris’s bistros: They’re all here in this colossal city of 19 million, where the array of gastronomic treasures makes for difficult decisions. Young chef Enrique Olvera may have begun to cause noise globally with his restaurant Pujol (think New World Noma), but locals are just as likely to point you to hidden faves like the guys serving seafood cocktails from the back of a minivan at the corner of Virreyes and Prado Sur. It would take a lifetime to devour it all. But if, like most of us, you’ve only got a few days, here are…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PEDEN+MUNK GROWING UP IN A PERSIAN KITCHEN in Southern California prepared me surprisingly well for a cooking career that began at Chez Panisse. My mother couldn’t have done a better job of impressing upon me the importance of starting with the most delicious ingredients: suitably tangy limes; fragrant, lively bunches of tarragon and cilantro bought by the dozen; yogurt that could never be too thick or sour. We spent countless afternoons seeking out these things at the Asian markets, Mexican groceries, and organic food co-ops in San Diego. I began cooking as a teenager and used my unusually primed palate to learn the nuances of innumerable varieties of heirloom vegetables, discovering along the way that there is no effort so well spent as finding local sour cherries during…

“STRAWBERRIES, ALMONDS, AND PEAS GO REALLY WELL TOGETHER. THE FLAVORS ARE EXTRAORDINARY, AND THE COLORS LOOK PRETTY, TOO.” Strawberry-Coconut Lassi Coconut milk replaces yogurt in this summery Indian drink. Puree 1 1/2. cups halved hulled strawberries, 2/3 cup ice, 1/2 cup buttermilk, 1/3 cup unsweetened coconut milk, and 1 Tbsp. sugar in a blender until smooth and frothy. Makes 2…

TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN BLT SET FREE FROM P. 14 As long as you have access to the BLT basics (details at right), this tasty trio allows for delicious add-ons and variations. We asked the editors at BA how they like to embellish the classic sandwich at home, then sat back as the responses came rolling in. Caramelized onions. Cheddar cheese. Pesto. For more easy upgrades, see below. This summer, we’ll find time to try them all. —CARLA LALLI MUSIC EXCELLENT EXTRAS HOT PEPPERS Pickled cherry peppers add tangy heat. Mix some of the brine into the mayo for more zip. FIG JAM A sweet counter-point to the salty bacon and fresh crunch of the lettuce. CHIPOTLE MAYO Swirl chopped chipotles—and some of their…

GRILLED PIMIENTO CHEESE AND FRIED GREEN TOMATO SANDWICH (GPC) MAKES 4 We love the way this recipe revamps a standard BLT. For more twists on that classic, see Prep School, page 133. PIMIENTO CHEESE ¾ cup shredded mozzarella ¾ cup shredded sharp cheddar ¼ cup mayonnaise 2 oz. cream cheese, room temperature 2 Tbsp. chopped roasted red pepper ½ tsp. hot pepper sauce ¼ tsp. garlic powder Kosher salt FRIED GREEN TOMATOES AND ASSEMBLY 2 large green tomatoes, sliced." thick Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 large eggs 1 tsp. hot pepper sauce 1 cup all-purpose flour 11/2 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. paprika 2 cups panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) Vegetable oil (for frying; about 3 cups) 4 ciabatta rolls, split 8 slices bacon, cooked until crisp SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A deep-fry thermometer…

Mr. Coffee You know him as McDreamy from Grey’s Anatomy. But Patrick Dempsey is also the new boss of the Seattle coffee chain Tully’s. He knows his joe. Anchovies are another matter... You recently bought Tully’s, a Starbucks rival. How’d that happen? Neighborhood coffee shops are an important part of people’s lives— it’s a part of your everyday ritual. I wanted to bring Tully’s back to life. So you’re a coffee drinker? Yes. I do two or three cups in the morning and one or two in the afternoon, with almond milk or half-and-half. I want to become a certified barista and work in the stores. Five cups! Do you ever get any sleep? It doesn’t really affect me. Coffee is good for your mind—it’s basically a legalized drug. The…

Market Gain We’ll say it: Food halls are the new food trucks. Across the U.S., these new and newly renovated culinary temples are luring artisanal producers, specialty purveyors, even high-end dining spots. Here are five of our favorites 1 WEST SIDE MARKET CLEVELAND With its 44-foot-high vaulted ceilings and iconic clock tower, this recently redone hall has the feel of a European train station. Plus, there’s a year-round 85-stall produce area outside. 2, 3 MELROSE MARKET SEATTLE Melrose plays David to Pike Place’s Goliath, attracting a loyal following in the process. To understand why, order a cocktail at Still Liquor or pick up some handcrafted housewares from Butter Home. 4 UNION MARKET WASHINGTON, D.C. The soaring industrial space is packed with high-quality eats like Red Apron Butchery’s house-made sausages and…

WHAT ARE THESE? CHIA SEEDS! NOT JUST FOR CHIA PETS ANYMORE, THEY’RE A PERFECT PROTEIN AND HIGH IN OMEGA-3S. SEEDS OF CHANGE Want a big health boost in a little package? Chia seeds, pepitas, and the like can improve your well-being—and your cooking TEXT AND RECIPES BY SARAH BRITTON HERE’S A SIMPLE PIECE OF ADVICE that will transform whatever you’re eating: Sprinkle some seeds on it. Sitting down to the usual salad? A handful of pumpkin seeds will give it new life. Does that side dish look dull? Nothing a showering of sesame seeds won’t fix. Seeds add crunch, flavor, and dimension, and they’re concentrated sources of vitamins, minerals, protein, and healthy fats. To reap the benefits, add them to anything you’re already making, whether it’s muffins, roasted veggies, or…

CONSIDER THE LOBSTER ROLL WHAT DOES A LOBSTER FETISH look like? Here in Maine, you see the creature on our state license plates, and you can buy it at the corner gas station. Its perpound price gets reported on the news as if it were Apple stock, and our basketball team’s mascot is a jacked crustacean. Driving through downtown Portland, you often pass some poor sod waving at traffic in a neon-red lobster suit. Why? Because lobster gives us meaning. It symbolizes our natural abundance, our connection to the cold, clear Atlantic, and our culinary inventiveness. We thermidor and Newburg it, scampi and bisque it. But, in the end, the thing we do best is deconstruct it—nutcracker and handpick it—reducing it to its most perfect form: the lobster roll. Recently,…

RICE VERMICELLI WITH CHICKEN AND NUOC CHAM 4 SERVINGS Nuoc cham, the Vietnamese condiment that dresses this crunchy noodle salad, is made with lime juice, fish sauce, chiles, and sugar. The addictive mix of spicy, sweet, sour, and salty flavors is also great as a dipping sauce for grilled meats. 11/2 lb. skin-on, bone-in chicken breasts (about 2) Kosher salt 1 large shallot, thinly sliced crosswise, separated into rings 1/2 cup vegetable oil 8 oz. rice vermicelli noodles 1 Fresno chile or red jalapeno, with seeds, finely chopped 1 small garlic clove, finely grated 1/3 cup fresh lime juice 1/4 cup fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc nam) 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 4 baby white turnips, trimmed, thinly sliced into rounds 4 radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced into rounds…

Photograph by Craig Cutler Illustrations by Lucy Engelman fig. 1/no drought Serious gardeners choose Dramm hoses because they’re crushproof and kink-resistant. But we love them because they come in way more colors than just green. Dramm hose, $70; westelm.com fig. 2/curl up The midcentury-esque design. The powder-coated finish. Who knew a hose rack could look so cool? Hose Jockey, $125; okthestore.com fig. 3/sight lines A vibrant enamel layer makes these trowels easy to spot, even from across the yard. $28 for set of two; shop.floragrubb.com fig. 4/cult object Ask a master gardener what her favorite tool is, and she’ll likely mention this digging, planting, weeding, and harvesting wonder gadget—a.k.a. the CobraHead Weeder and Cultivator. $25; cobrahead.com fig. 5/string ’em along Wrangle your vines with rainbow-colored jute from a nearly century-old…

As one of only 14 people to “EGOT” (that is, win an Emmy, a Grammy, an Oscar, and a Tony), Mel Brooks lives on his own terms. Mornings start with a café au lait, which he makes just so, with warm milk and Dunkin’ Donuts beans. “I like a real coffee color,” he explains. “Not too light, not too black, just what a coffee color should be.” Later on in the day, you might find him watching a movie with his grandson, Henry. “I’ve seen Wreck-It Ralph, like, 40 times,” Brooks confesses. In the evenings, he drives to writing buddy and “forever pal” Carl Reiner’s house in Beverly Hills for dinner. Neither is likely to cook, though Brooks—who is the subject of PBS’s latest American Masters documentary—could deliver this classic…