Bon Appetit March 2013

FIND, FOLLOW, AND CONNECT WITH US ONLINE The Hashtag: Chef’s Choice On page 110, we name the 20 most important restaurants in America. But not everybody’s favorite made the list. Here’s what some well-known chefs had to say. #importantrestaurants ANITA LO chef at Annisa, NYC Next, Chez Panisse, & quietly, the misunderstood Jungsik [in Tribeca] for presenting new, globally influenced Korean #importantrestaurants CURTIS DUFFY chef at Grace, Chicago Atera in NYC, Saison in SF, Willows Inn on Lummi Island [WA] #importantrestaurants KRIS YENBAMROONG chef at Night + Market, Los Angeles @bacomercat, @statebirdsf, and @missionstfood (they are asking all the right questions) #importantrestaurants FLOYD CARDOZ chef at North End Grill, NYC Pok Pok, Portland (best Thai), Blue Hill Stone Barns (sustainable), Spago (consistency) are for me #importantrestaurants Hang Out with BA…

I’LL TAKE THAT TO GO GREAT RESTAURANTS don’t just shape the way we eat; they shape the way we live. At least they do for my wife and me. Whenever Simone and I go out to dinner, we always end up walking away with some sort of inspiration—could be for a dish, could be for a decorating touch. And if you come to our place, it’s easy to spot what we’ve nicked. Those kitchen subway tiles lined with black grout? Thank you, Keith McNally, of Balthazar and Pastis fame. (Ditto for those striped kitchen towels that every bistro in America now uses as napkins.) When we entertain, Simone runs to the market for a bale of cherry or quince branches. For years, she arranged the towering centerpiece at Babbo, and…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, WHAT’S THE SECRET TO MAKING THE FABULOUS BEET MARTINI AT THE DOGWOOD COCKTAIL CABIN IN CRESTED BUTTE, CO? —JOANNE M. KONRATH, Inverness, IL BEETNIK MARTINI 12 SERVINGS If juicing sounds too healthy for you, may we suggest adding booze? The beets turn the vodka a fantastic shade of pink, and ginger adds a flavorful kick. VODKA AND SYRUP 6 medium red beets (about 2½ lb.), scrubbed, trimmed 1 750-ml bottle vodka ¾ cup sugar 2 Tbsp. grated peeled ginger ASSEMBLY 3 oz. fresh lemon juice 3 oz. fresh lime juice 12 lemon slices VODKA AND SYRUP Cook beets in a large saucepan of boiling water until tender, 1–1 ¼ hours. Drain; let cool slightly. Peel and slice. Combine warm beets and vodka in a large 1½-qt. jar…

Tool and Dye WHEN I STARTED OUT AS A PASTRY COOK, my boss handed me a plastic Matfer bowl scraper. “The only tool you’ll ever need,” he said. It soon became an extension of my hand. It’s flexible enough to get every last drop of batter or whipped cream from a bowl, yet firm enough to cut through brownies, bread, or pasta doughs. I’ve since retired my restaurant apron, but I still use my scraper daily in the BA Test Kitchen—moving vegetables from cutting board to pot, cleaning mortars and pestles, portioning gnocchi. It may not be the only tool I’ve ever needed, but it’s definitely become my favorite. ($5.50; jbprince.com) CUSTOMIZE IT This scraper only comes in clear. But for fun, you can color it (like an Easter egg,…

CHICKPEA, FENNEL, AND CITRUS SALAD “Adding citrus segments takes chickpeas to another level. And I use the fennel bulb, stalks, and fronds in this dish so nothing goes to waste.” —Sue Li, recipe developer Cut peel and pith from 1 grapefruit and 1 lemon; cut between membranes to release segments. Squeeze juice from membranes into a medium bowl; whisk in 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Toss in citrus, one 15-oz. can chickpeas (rinsed, coarsely chopped), 1 thinly sliced fennel bulb and stalks, and a handful of fennel fronds. 4 servings For a guide to breaking down fennel, see Prep School, page 122. CHICKPEA-YOGURT DIP “Yogurt lightens this riff on hummus. It’s fantastic with pita chips or crudités.” —Chris Morocco, associate food editor…

You think Hollywood starlets don’t eat? Try telling that to Aubrey Plaza—the sofrito-cooking, almond butter–loving, candy-hoarding star of Parks and Recreation You’re half Puerto Rican. Did you grow up cooking traditional food? It’d be a lie to say I “grew up cooking.” But I was around a lot of food. My grandmother has been trying to teach me the basics—sofrito and rice and beans. So what’s the secret to tasty rice and beans? Old-school, Goya Sazón–style seasoning. The kind you get in the back part of a shady Mexican grocery store. Are you confident in the kitchen? I turn into a crazy person. I have a glass of wine to get into a good state of mind. It ends up being an explosion. By the end, I’m covered in flour…