Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2013 i Bon Appetit

ba TV We’ve shown you the best of spring, summer, and fall. Now a year of seasonal cooking at Canal House comes full circle with our winter entrées video. Be inspired by Melissa and Christopher (we are!). bonappetit.com/seasonalcooks THREE NEW WAYS TO CONNECT WITH BA You like us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter, peep our photos on instagram, and browse our obsessions on Pinterest. Now there are even more ways to be a part of Bon Appétit in the digital world. Join in! 1 GOOGLE+ Hang out with our test kitchen and watch live streamed events. google.com/+bonappetit 2 YOUTUBE Watch all BA TV videos, from chef demos to Shot & a Beer. youtube.com/bonappetit 3 TUMBLR See the coolest images from BA past, present, and future. bonappetit.tumblr.com THE BACK AND…

ALMOST EVERY WINTER VEGETABLE tastes better roasted: squash, broccoli, turnips, potatoes, carrots. But lately I’ve been all about roasting cauliflower. The combination of meaty, caramelized florets and some just-this-side-of-burnt onions has become my winter go-to. Add a handful of Parmesan just before it’s done, and the dish goes to a sweet, nutty place—sure to convert any cauliflower haters. Serve it as an easy side, toss it with pasta for dinner, or add it to a salad at lunch. I’m officially addicted. PARMESAN-ROASTED CAULIFLOWER Preheat oven to 425°. Cut 1 head cauliflower into florets; toss on a large rimmed baking sheet with 1 sliced medium onion, 4 thyme sprigs, 4 unpeeled garlic cloves, and 3 Tbsp. olive oil; season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Roast, tossing occasionally, until…

With a design empire that includes interiors, architecture, and now fashion, Kelly Wearstler tackles 30 meetings a day on a diet of boot camp and beet juice. How does she juggle it all? While she has no appetite for empty calories, she certainly has taste You started out in interior design, but your company has grown in recent years. I’m a designer, which includes interiors, architecture, fashion, furniture, and lifestyle. I’m 100 percent involved with 100 percent of my projects. I choose every hinge, every button, each lightbulb. How do you start the day? I go to Barry’s Bootcamp at 5:30 a.m., seven days a week. It’s me and a bunch of Hollywood hotshots. I’ve heard we burn 800 calories per class. Sounds intense. Do you hydrate? I drink water…

ONE-SKILLET WONDERS After a long day at the office, I’m not in the mood to come home to a mound of chores. Which means I don’t want a dinner that yields a big pile of dishes. Instead, I want a delicious meal that doesn’t take as long to clean up as it did to cook. This is why cast-iron and stainless steel pans are my kitchen workhorses: One-skillet dinners are simple; there’s something relaxing about tending to just one pan, building flavors step by step rather than manning multiple burners. And when it’s over, only a skillet, a knife, and a cutting board need to be cleaned. Which means I can spend time with my family, not with my pots and pans. Perfect. —JANET MCCRACKEN Chorizo and White Bean Stew…

FEBRUARY, THE MONTH OF ROMANCE, is all about chocolate and Champagne. Would it be wrong then, for us to wax poetic about our long love of vinegar? A good wine vinegar is hard to find. The kind in grocery stores can be too acidic. Specialty food shops carry fancy balsamic and flavored vinegars, but often there is no top-shelf red wine variety to be found. So we make our own, for the fun and satisfaction of it, and because we love its sparkling, fresh flavor. We got started when a friend gave each of us a piece of “mother,” which resembles The Absent-Minded Professor’s flubber, a blob floating in jars with a little wine and water. It’s this mother, the live starter, that transforms wine into vinegar (acetic acid) through…

Classic Chocolate Mousse 6 SERVINGS Dark chocolate and espresso add the slightly bitter notes needed to balance this dessert. Remember, the higher the cacao percentage, the less sweet the chocolate. 3/4 cup chilled heavy cream, divided 4 large egg yolks 1/4 cup espresso or strong coffee, room temperature 1/8 tsp. kosher salt 3 Tbsp. sugar, divided 6 oz. semisweet chocolate (61.72% cacao), chopped 2 large egg whites Beat 1/2 cup cream in a medium bowl until stiff peaks form; cover and chill. Combine egg yolks, espresso, salt, and 2 Tbsp. sugar in a large metal bowl. Set over a saucepan of gently simmering water (do not allow bowl to touch water). Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is lighter in color and almost doubled in volume and an instant-read thermometer inserted…

In Zermatt, Switzerland, the only things that match the epic beauty of the Alps are the majestic mountainside restaurants, where the golden rösti, dazzling fruit tarts, and après-ski refreshments are only accessible by trail I FIRST SKIED IN ZERMATT IN 1979, when I was ten. My parents rented a small apartment at the edge of the village, a healthy hike up a winding path. The dollar was strong, but the budget was tight. Most nights, we ate in—spaghetti, with store-bought sauce. For lunch, we stocked up at the supermarket and picnicked on the deck of an abandoned hut near the foot of a glacier: crackers, landjäger sausage, Hobelkäse (a local cheese), le Parfait (liver pâté in a squeezable tube), blood oranges, and Toblerone. We acquired a taste for skiing where…

WHERE IT’S APP SOME OF THE BEST MOMENTS of being an editor in chief are those when you end up doing next to nothing. Once a month, usually in the middle of the afternoon—right around when I need a double espresso—a team of staffers invades my office. Bon Appétit art director Elizabeth Spiridakis, special projects editor Scott DeSimon, and production director Jim Gomez march in, all clutching iPads and raring to go. They’ve arrived to show me that month’s version of Bon Appétit’s digital app. My job? Sit and smile. As we’re shipping the print version of the magazine each month, Spiridakis and a band of designers transform rigid, hard-copy layouts into a flowing, dynamic experience. Type cascades across the screen; photographs that are a quarter page in the magazine…

The Northwest Express Over the past decade, the Pacific Northwest has built a food and style movement all its own. And while the bike riding, espresso guzzling, and jam making may dip into hipster ridiculousness at times (see Portlandia), the region’s restaurants, artisanal producers, and woodsy aesthetic influence how the rest of us eat, drink, and live. Here’s how to bring their world to yours. 1 ROB THORNBER MADRONA BOWLS Olga, WA Made from naturally felled madrona trees—an indigenous variety with a rich, red wood and pronounced grain—these bowls come in various shapes and sizes, but all have the wood’s distinctive warmth. $30–$110; orcasartworks.com 2 JACOBSEN SEA SALT Netarts Bay, OR Carry around the taste of the Pacific with mini tins of this flaky salt straight from the blustery Oregon…

Bright, versatile pineapple brings a shot of sunshine to winter eating. So we asked the BA Test Kitchen to come up with three inventive ways to enjoy our favorite tropical fruit PINEAPPLE PORK CHOPS “Pineapple is great for marinades; it lends amazing sweet-and-sour flavor and contains enzymes that help tenderize the meat.”—ALISON ROMAN, ASSISTANT FOOD EDITOR Peel, core, and chop ¼ pineapple into chunks. Mix with ¼ cup cilantro sprigs, 2 sliced chiles (such as jalapeño or serrano), 2 Tbsp. soy sauce, 1 Tbsp. fish sauce, and 1 chopped garlic clove. Pour over 4 pork chops. Cover; chill at least 6 hours and up to 1 day. (Before marinating, set some marinade aside to use as a dipping sauce.) Remove pork from marinade; grill or broil. 4 servings SPICY PINEAPPLE…

RECIPES BY CHRIS MOROCCO KEYS TO REACHING NACHO NIRVANA NACHOS MAY FLOURISH IN SPORTS bars alongside jalapeño poppers and chicken tenders, but I give them the consideration of a fourstar meal. You can’t just dump chips and cheese together and expect crunchy-melty-salty-spicy excellence. After years of experimenting for my annual nacho party (held during one very big football game), I’ve landed on a few rules for each component. THE CHIP The ideal specimen is medium-thick. Greasy, thin versions—like the ones some restaurants fry in-house—won’t hold up here. I’m into Tostitos Simply Natural chips. THE CHEESE Liquid cheese, the kind that comes in a side compartment at the concession stand, tastes like candle wax. Gruyère? Save it for grilled cheese. I go for a blend of sharp yellow cheddar and Monterey…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Ditte “Ditalini” Isager “Using butter and olive oil together is not traditional, but it adds a subtle richness to the dish you don’t get from oil alone.” SARA JENKINS PORSENA, NYC FOUR STEPS TO PASTA PARADISO There’s more to cooking pasta than just dumping a box of dried noodles into boiling water—but not that much more. We asked chef Sara Jenkins, of NYC’s Porsena, for a few fundamental, dead-simple tips to help take any pasta dish all the way to perfect.—AMIEL STANEK 1 The more water, the better Start with at least six quarts cold water for each pound of pasta you’re cooking. A larger quantity of water gives the pasta more space to move around (to prevent sticking) and will return to a boil more quickly after…

What happens when a pair of acclaimed young chefs take over a dockside warehouse, roll up the garage door, and open shop for just two hours a day? An impossibly chic crowd lines up, eager for some of the most satisfying food in Scandinavia. Welcome to Malmö, Sweden’s Imagine if René Redzepi shuttered Noma and got behind the counter of a sandwich shop that was only open weekdays from noon to 2 p.m., and you have the idea behind Saltimporten Canteen. By the time the beat-up metal “Lunch” sign is dragged outside the sliver of warehouse space in Malmö, Sweden, bicycles are parked and a crowd of stylish lunchers is waiting in line. They’re here for a comforting meal of soup, sometimes stew, and bread—simple food reconceived by two rising…

Most of the mussels available these days are rope or net-grown, so they’re easy to find, sustainable, affordable, and simple to prepare. Want to get started? Read on. —JANET TAYLOR MCCRACKEN BLUE AND BLACK MUSSELS Grown abundantly in both Atlantic and Pacific waters, these are what you’re most likely to see in your local market (those from Prince Edward Island are the blue variety). Sweet and rich in flavor, they cook in minutes; the black ones are slightly larger. NEW ZEALAND GREEN-LIPPED MUSSELS Produced exclusively in New Zealand and exported, these vibrantly colored bivalves are rope-grown and subject to tight regulation. Large and meaty, they have a flavor slightly milder than what you’ll find in blue mussels. How to prep and clean mussels 1. Buy mussels that look and smell…

—DANIELLE SPARHAWK, Littleton, NH JENGA RIBS 4 SERVINGS Bonus points for serving one huge stack and making your family get all Jenga on it for seconds. 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 Tbsp. (packed) light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. paprika 2 tsp. chili powder 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. ground cumin 2 tsp. onion powder 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. ground coriander 2 racks St. Louis–style pork spareribs (4½ lb. total) Prepared barbecue sauce Whisk garlic powder, salt, brown sugar, paprika, chili powder, pepper, cumin, onion powder, cinnamon, and coriander in a small bowl to blend. DO AHEAD: Spice blend can be made 1 month ahead. Store airtight at room temperature. Preheat oven to 300°. Rub ribs all over with…

WHAT’S ON ANDREW KNOWLTON’S PLATE (AND MIND) THIS MONTH RETURN OF THE TATER TOT The crunch-tastic snack is finally getting its due from grown-ups Most people forgot the Tater Tot once they graduated from the lunchroom. Not me. Since I’ve stocked my own fridge, I’ve kept a bag of Ore-Ida Tots in the freezer for late-night binges and now, treats for my daughters. They’re great baked, even better fried. And while they’ll always be second to french fries, chefs are starting to show them some respect on menus. I’ve seen “Totchos,” Tot casseroles, and even an upscale version served with short ribs at HauteDish in Minneapolis. Straight up, they’re a great bar snack at Nashville’s Patterson House. But hey, if you don’t want your Tater Tots, I’ll gladly trade you…

Japan’s iconic noodle soup, ramen, is finally getting some love in the States. And it’s about time. In its homeland, the dish, with its rich, deeply flavored broth, handmade noodles, and array of condiments, is treated with the same reverence that Southerners reserve for barbecue. While most Americans have only recently had the chance to taste the difference between the instant packet and the from-scratch version, a growing number of ramen spots are opening stateside. Standouts like San Francisco’s Ken Ken and New York’s Ippudo are introducing diners to the joys of slurping hot noodles while putting their own spins on the bowl (matzo ball ramen, anyone?). Here is your Ramen 101. “Ramen will eventually take over as the world’s go-to comfort food. Why? Because it’s a perfectly balanced umami…

IF YOU’RE A FOOD LOVER, there are few places better to visit right now than Southeast Asia. Classic pho, banh mi sandwiches, and amok are just a few of the delicious reasons to go. And there’s no better way to experience the region than with a luxe cruise up the colorful Mekong River, bookended by a few days in bustling Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh. From a cooking class taught by the Vietnamese Martha and pampering spa treatments at sea to the sights and intoxicating aromas of big-city markets—this seven-day trip to paradise has it all. DAY 1 HO CHI MINH CITY Fueled by Vietnam’s booming economy and its expat community, the vibrant restaurant scene in Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon, has become one of…

PHOTOGRAPHES BY CHRISTINA HOLMES Fruit Boost I love the way a smoothie looks in the morning—bright, fresh, and reminiscent of summer even in the middle of February. But the most beautiful thing about it? I almost always have everything on hand in my fridge or freezer to make one. Whenever my bananas become overly ripe, I peel them and store them in a resealable plastic bag. Then into the freezer they go, right beside the ice cream, ready to add velvety texture to my next blender beauty. Another bonus: Smoothies are as simple to make for one person as they are for four, so I never have to change my game plan based on who’s around—or who’s sleeping in. MANGO, BERRY & BANANA SMOOTHIE Tasty, and healthy, too: Coconut water…

SILVER BULLET polished silver-plated brass with ebonized teakwood handles. “Walton,” $995 for three-piece set; ralphlaurenhome.com CIRCLE GAME a new twist on classic, fine bone china. Prouna “Geometrica,” $152; 212-481-5657 IRON MAIDEN the traditional Japanese cast-iron pot gets a bold new silhouette. “Ciacapo,” $120; covo-shop.com THE RIGHT STRIPES ceramist Heather dahl hand-throws and hand-paints every last piece of her vibrant line. “Modern Stripe,” $120; dahlhausart.com BIG RED Streamlined Scandinavian design makes for a pot that is as functional as it is elegant. Marimekko “Oiva,” $87; 212-843-9121 BLACK & WHITE graphic flourishes inspired by the ironwork of Andalusia. “Balcon du Guadalquivir,” Hermès, $710; 800-441-4488 for locations A WORK OF ART this tomato-red bubble design—by Austrian ceramist Jutta Sika in 1901—is still a stunner. “I Tondi,” $225; neuegalerie.org STAY GOLD crisp porcelain is…

After more than five decades in Hollywood, and with two Oscars under his belt, Dustin Hoffman knows a thing or two about working a red carpet. This year, however, he’ll be walking for a new reason—his directorial debut, Quartet. Out now, it tells the story of four aging opera singers who return to the stage to save their failing retirement home. It’s the kind of feel-good film that’s built for awards season—think the inspirational drive of The Full Monty but set to Verdi. If Hoffman, 75, seems chatty on the red carpet this month, he wants you to know: “It’s not me, it’s the Patrón.” As in, the shots of tequila that he knocks back with his wife before stepping out of the limo. “I can’t eat before the ceremony,…