Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2016 i Bon Appetit

It’s official: The world’s gone food crazy Chicken sandwiches are eating burgers’ lunch…Building a better salad lunch is easy… Edibles get artisanal… The Broad City ladies give us the munchies… Coconut’s in everything…Rappers are rhyming escargot… Corporate dropouts are launching food careers…America is truly a melting pot…Independent food journals just keep on comin’... Ben Schott writes a Dictionary of Allergies and Diets…Instagramming your food is an art form…Waiting in line for hours is totally normal…These ingredients can save the world…This generation spends all its money on food…Luxury giants are fighting over crumbs…Every city has its own small-batch hooch… Celebs are opening natural wine bars…These seven people are changing the future of food… Music festivals are the new food festivals…There is an actually delicious vegan dessert…Brooklyn is everywhere…

Are you getting the urge to renovate? Find buying info for the tiles on this page in Sourcebook, page 112. 1 Patterned Tile Marrakech. Mexico City. Havana. Patterned tile is the design equivalent of landing somewhere exotic. From sharp, modern graphics to traditional Moroccan, patterns grab the eye, creating a focal point for a room. PRO TIP Use judiciously! Though bravado need not be limited to commercial use, at home you’re best off laying this tile on a patio or in a small space like an entryway for a jewel-box effect. Have fun with the pattern, but you’d be wise to think of it like a tattoo: You should still want to look at it a year from now. Aim for timeless and unplaceable, says Dolores Suarez of New York’s…

ONE DAY AT CHEZ PANISSE, my friend Tony Brush pushed eight cast-iron Griswold and Wagner skillets toward me and said, “Here are some pans for you.” We both rode bikes and liked punk rock, and he was the line cook we all looked up to. Suzanne Goin and Michael Tusk worked there at the time, but Tony was the guy. He loved an excuse to buy old cast iron at flea markets. They were disasters when he brought them in, but Tony would bury them in the coals in the wood oven for a whole day and then season them with lard. He would gift a smooth, shiny stack to anyone getting married or having a kid. I got mine because we were friends and I probably didn’t have a…

Twice Is Nicer The trick to crispy, creamy, never cloying sweet potatoes? Roast, tear, and roast again. To serve 4, poke holes all over 3 medium sweet potatoes; wrap each in foil. Roast on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet in a 350° oven until tender, 60–70 minutes. Unwrap and let cool slightly. Increase oven temperature to 450°. Combine 1 thinly sliced Fresno chile, ¼ cup honey, and 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a small saucepan; season with salt. Bring to a simmer over low heat, stirring to combine. Remove from heat and stir in 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar. Smash potatoes with your palm, then tear into irregular bite-size pieces. Toss in a large bowl with half of hot honey, leaving chile behind; season with salt. Arrange pieces, skin side…

If you’re like us, you take pictures of everything you eat. Which is why we shot all of the original photography on the following pages with an iPhone. Seriously. WHICH CAME FIRST? A RECENT HISTORY OF THE FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH ( FCS ) 1960s Atlanta restaurateur S. Truett Cathy puts breaded chicken breasts on hamburger buns and—at least according to Chick-fil-A legend— invents the modern FCS. 1980 McDonald’s introduces the McChicken sandwich and…it fails miserably. Eight years later, it will be resurrected. 2005 Blue-wigged Aussie Alison Barakat creates an FCS topped with vinegary coleslaw for Bakesale Betty in Oakland, CA. APRIL 2010 The Commodore introduces Brooklyn to the Hot Breast, its addictively spicy sandwich take on Nashville’s venerable hot chicken. 2011 Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s L.A. seafood spot Son…

KOMBUCHA Daina Slekys Trout Pharmaceuticals to Health-Ade Kombucha “When I started in pharmaceuticals, I wanted to be CEO. But it felt like it would take 30 years. So five years in, my husband, my best friend, and I decided to start a business. I had gotten into brewing kombucha in grad school. When I served some at one of our meetings, my friend said, ‘Why don’t we just sell this?’ After we sold out at one farmers’ market in 20 minutes, I knew we’d hit on something.” CHOCOLATE Heather Johnston Pediatrician to Veruca Chocolates “The women I worked with never saw their kids. One night, my husband and I were carrying 1,000 chocolates to a party, and he goes, ‘This is not a hobby anymore. Time to make a life…

MICROBIOTIC Consuming an absurdly large portion by painstakingly dividing it into seemingly insignificant nano-bites. DETOXYMORON One who endeavors to compensate for unhealthy overindulgence with unhealthy under-indulgence. K.W.F. Kosher While Flying Non-Jews who request the in-flight kosher option because the food is better. In prison this is known as K.W.I.—Kosher While Incarcerated HIPSTER VEGAN An urbanite who bravely (if vocally) subsists on limited-edition kale burgers and vegetarian chicharrones. SCARSDALIAN One who remains doggedly loyal to diets from the dim and distant past (e.g., Atkins, Cabbage Soup, South Beach, Blood Type, Zone, etc.). OMNIBORE One who is so proud of eating absolutely everything she becomes as dull as those who eat absolutely nothing. F.O.M.O.VARIAN One who simply has to fork a bite of every dish. GLUTENAUGHT One who disdains gluten— not for…

THERE WAS A TIME WHEN D.I.Y. DISTILLERS were backcountry outlaws. These days it’s urban hipsters, not hillbillies, who are bottling the country’s best small-batch hooch. In the past ten years, the number of craft distilleries in the U.S. has exploded from around 35 to more than 750. Much of this boozy boom has been made possible by the loosening of draconian state and local laws that hadn’t been touched since Prohibition, spurred both by opportunistic, seen-the-light legislators—the taxes! the tourism dollars!—and dogged young liquor makers willing to lobby the government to secure their inalienable right to party. Above, the bottles we’d race the Duke boys for.…

“Food is critical. If I’m going to be at a festival for three days, I’d hope to have access to pretty great food.” —Anthony Mathieu “You need food if you want to party.” —Danny Vacon “We don’t have a lot of food trucks in Canada. People probably thought we were weirdos because we were so happy to have tacos.” —Rebecca White “I love wasting money on good food.” —Jordan H. Baker, left ON THE LINE UP 3,200 Kimchi fries at Chi’Lantro 1,500 Cucumber-kale agua frescas at JuiceLand 900 Fried brussels sprout salads at East Side King 698 Frozen peanut-butter-and-Oreo-dipped bananas at Bananarchy 674 Notorious P.I.G. sandwiches at Slab BBQ 110 Gallons of queso at Frank # BUCKETLIST…

TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN FROM P. 12 Go-to Gochujang The spicy fermented Korean pepper paste is more than just one of our favorite condiments in the BA Test Kitchen. Thanks to its various levels of heat, the fiery red soybeanbased paste also provides a stellar bottom note to sauces, a kick to Mexican salsas, a boost to miso in a simple soup or stew—it can even serve as an allin-one marinade for proteins or vegetables. And its sugars caramelize when they come into contact with direct heat, making it an ideal candidate for grilling or searing in cast iron. So the next time you need to add fast flavor and complexity, reach for the big tub you bought for our Gochujang-Braised Chicken and Crispy…

Peel & Eat Want some more interesting citrus in your life? Check specialty grocers, or visit Rising C Ranches at ripetoyou.com for mail-order options. 1 Pomelo Think grapefruit with less bitterness and more rind. “We rip it apart cell by cell,” says Beverly Kim of Chicago’s Parachute. “It gives nice texture to fish dishes.” (You can just eat it in segments.) 2 Blood Orange Molly Mitchell of Rose’s Fine Food in Detroit candies the ruby-hued fruit (with hints of berry flavor), great for chopping up and serving atop breakfast, like on Rose’s French toast. 3 Satsuma Alon Shaya of New Orleans’ Shaya adds the super-sweet juice to butternut squash that’s been sautéed with black-garlic butter. “It cuts through the richness of the butter,” he says. 4 Sour Orange “It has…

WHAT A DIFFERENCE A FEW CENTURIES MAKE. Once considered a weed, rye is now the main grain in one of America’s most sought-after spirits: rye whiskey. Its bold profile has bartenders finally moving beyond bourbon. “Just like in bread, rye adds a distinct spiciness to whiskey,” says Julian Goglia of The Mercury in Atlanta. That depth makes it a great match for modern cocktails (or, of course, for drinking neat). OG Distiller Sam Adams may get the attention as America’s patriot brewer, but George Washington distilled rye at Mount Vernon. When he died in 1799, he was producing 11,000 gallons a year, making him America’s largest whiskey distiller. DECODE THE LABEL Age statement Rye must be aged in new oak barrels, but there are no rules about how long. If…

Everyone in Providence, Rhode Island, knows the powers of medicine soup. The brothy noodles at Angkor Restaurant are powered by the spices typical of Cambodian cuisine—the kind that seem to actually give off warmth. The flavor is an exercise in extremes: meaty and funky, sweet and sour, fiery to the point of sinus relief. Three years ago, I moved from Providence to New York City, where the winters are ostensibly milder but somehow harder to bear. I might blame the snow that turns immediately to sludge, but the real problem is that I can’t just plod down the street to Angkor and pay $5 to get set straight by a bowl of soup. I’ve been looking for something equivalent among the restorative broths of the world, from bone to miso…

AS HIP, wholesome, fast-casual canteens like Sweetgreen— the choose-your-own-adventure salad spot with 40 locations— take over city blocks nationwide, our midday meal options have become healthier, tastier, and more varied. But such freedom of choice presents one issue: If, by the company’s calculations, you have at least 284 million possible permutations, how do you know if you’re, you know, being a good chef? We asked Quaneesha Allen and Alexis Patterson, two of Sweetgreen’s pros, for tricks to make your green lunch a whole lot sweeter. Quaneesha Allen prepping cauliflower in an NYC outpost. SALAD HACKS 1 The menu’s on the wall and the line’s long, so brush off the performance anxiety and order like an auctioneer: kale-caesar-no-onions-plus-chicken-heavy-dressing. 2 When it comes to the seven green and grain bases that Sweetgreen…

Vaguely healthy and totally delicious, coconut is the latest ingredient we can’t get enough of—in any of its countless forms. Here’s how we’re eating it all day, every day Aromatic Wilted Greens with Coconut Milk 4 SERVINGS Finishing this dish with coconut milk retains its sweet flavor. 2 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil 4 garlic cloves, lightly crushed 2 small shallots, chopped 1 red chile (such as Fresno), thinly sliced 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced into matchsticks 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, divided Kosher salt 1 small bunch kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves torn 1 small bunch collard greens, ribs and stems removed, leaves sliced 1" thick ½ cup unsweetened coconut milk, divided Lime wedges (for serving) Heat oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook garlic, stirring, until…

1,684,302 likes @bonappetitmag — BA’s 10 Instagram Commandments I. Thou shalt worship no other god besides natural light . II. Thou shalt not make unto thee any images taken from a ¾ angle. For the most flattering perspective, shoot only from directly above. For foods with height (like or milkshakes), thou shalt shoot directly from the side. III. Thou shalt not take thy photo editing in vain. Use the VSCO app, download the extra filter packs, then sharpen, bump up the contrast, and cool the temperature. But not too much! IV. Remember the holy rule: Post no more than once a day. This commandment still applies while on vacation . V. Thou shalt not allow an to melt while holding it up against a brick wall. VI. Thou shalt not…

#SQUADGOALS…

Musician James Murphy’s idea of a solo career was to open a restaurant with his family and friends. The result is that rare celebrity-driven spot that just feels right. Don’t believe us? Let these recipes show you the way Roasted Carrots with Stracciatella and Buckwheat 4 SERVINGS The little sprinkle of buckwheat delivers a much-needed crunch factor. If you don’t have any, add some chopped toasted almonds or homemade breadcrumbs. 1 lb. small carrots, any color, scrubbed, tops trimmed, halved lengthwise 1 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for drizzling Kosher salt 2 tsp. buckwheat groats ½ tsp. nigella seeds (optional) 1½ tsp. Champagne vinegar 1 Tbsp. fresh carrot juice (optional) 8 oz. stracciatella di bufala, burrata, or fresh mozzarella, torn into large pieces 1 cup (packed) mixed tender herb leaves (such…

It’s vegan.* It’s superfood-y. It even has avocado in it. Maybe that’s why the beautiful people at BA Hot 10 winner Gjusta in Venice, CA, can’t get enough of this (no-cook!) bowl of chocolate amazingness Chocolate-Avocado Pudding Scoop flesh from 2 large avocados into a blender and scrape in seeds from 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise; discard pod. Add ¾ cup unsweetened cocoa powder, ½ cup pure maple syrup, ¼ cup agave nectar, ¼ cup fresh orange juice, and ½ tsp. kosher salt and blend to a coarse purée. With motor running, gradually stream in ¾ cup hot (but not boiling) water; blend, adding more orange juice as needed, until smooth and creamy. Divide pudding among eight 4–6 oz. ramekins or small bowls and chill at least 2 hours and…

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SHOTS OF BLACK DEATH, ANYONE? Better known for vodka and, um, mineral water, Iceland has an unofficial national spirit that’s gaining distribution here: Brennivín. Despite its foreboding nickname, “Black Death,” the caraway-infused beverage of Björk’s homeland tastes like a gentler aquavit. Try it in a Bloody Mary. brennivin.com for stores Seaweed Season Is Upon Us Yes, there is such a thing—and for Ironbound Island Seaweed, which harvests by hand on the Schoodic Peninsula of Maine, it begins in spring. There’s no better time to familiarize yourself with nature’s vitamin-andmineral all-star. From $25 per lb.; ironboundisland.com Atlantic wakame Calcium-loaded darkgreen leaves Try it: in a cucumber salad Atlantic kombu The deepest-growing edible seaweed Try it: in chicken stock Atlantic kelp Quick-cooking fronds Try it: added to bean cooking liquid EGGSENTIAL! Just…

No one takes Easter more seriously than the Italians. Just ask Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, the chefs behind Via Carota, the completely charming trattoria in New York’s West Village. The Easter menu that the duo created— artichokes, braised lamb, chocolate semifreddo—mirrors the restaurant’s rustic, timeless, fuss-free approach. To start the meal, Williams and Sodi set out a platter of gorgeous raw vegetables. The un-recipe: Find the prettiest produce that March can pony up (such as slender carrots and haricots verts, small heads of lettuce, breakfast radishes, and asparagus). Wash and trim (halving whatever needs to be halved), then arrange on a platter. Squeeze lemon juice over everything, sprinkle with flaky sea salt, and serve with your best olive oil for dipping. These artichokes take a little effort. Learn how…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 112. Nothing represents the fantasies of food-obsessed Americans quite like the Pacific Northwest. It’s an unspoiled wonderland where the fish is always fresh, the produce pedigreed, and the people (somewhat eerily) enthusiastic. But our fascination with Portland and Seattle obscures a thrilling truth: The grass is even greener (and fresher, and tastier, and cheaper) on the other side of the 49th parallel. Vancouver is the real deal, a temperate paradise with an exploding food scene that takes advantage of pristine Pacific seafood and interior British Columbia’s bounty, diverse immigrant traditions, and of-the-moment culinary trends alike. “By Sea, Land, and Air We Prosper” reads the city’s motto. And after a few days eating our way across the city,…

LAUGH ALL YOU WANT, but for a lot of people, buying pot-laced edibles has become as pedestrian as picking up a bottle of vino. Marijuana—while still a federally controlled substance— is medically available in almost half the country, sold for recreational use in four states (Alaska, Colorado, Oregon, and Washington), and seven more states are bringing the issue to a vote this year. Some financial analysts project annual revenues to reach $35 billion by 2020— about $3 billion more than Americans spend on coffee. A chunk of that is due, of course, to packaged pot treats; last year there were 4.8 million purchases in Colorado alone. Edibles are portable, don’t carry the risks or smells associated with smoking, and are regulated and labeled so at least you know exactly what…

DRAKE RHYMED MORE ABOUT FOOD than anyone else in 2015. CHAMPAGNE TASTES Currently, the most popular brands in order are: Dom, Cristal, then Krug. Cristal was on top until the mid-2000s. “Baby let me get you some lobster / Matter of fact let me get you seafood, rice, and lobster / Let me get you some red velvet cake / Baby it’s Miami Finga Lickin” —DJ KHALED, PLUGGING HIS MIAMI RESTAURANT, FINGA LICKIN, ON THE SONG “GOLD SLUGS” CAVIAR PEAKED IN 1995. NOW IT’S ABOUT LOBSTER. Rappers aren’t popping bottles of big-name LIQUOR like they used to. Maybe they’ve moved on to craft distilleries too. HENNESSY VS. PATRÓN VS. CÎROC VS. BACARDI VS. GREY GOOSE IN THE PAST DECADE: TIE FOR GOOSE AND PATRÓN IN HIP-HOP SONGS THAT HAVE MADE…

Here at BA, we like to think we’re as indie-minded as everyone else in the food world. But when you work in the tallest skyscraper in America, it’s hard to argue you’re keeping it real. Fortunately, small journals are unearthing the ways craftier people are getting down with food. Here’s how we catch up without leaving our cubicles. LUCKY PEACH David Chang’s kinda drunken, always amusing Momofuku world—albeit a version with zany ramen illustrations and issues dedicated to plants and breakfast. The latest: a new website. BRUTAL MAGAZINE It caters to people into avant-garde fashion and food with simple recipes and shoots of gorgeous shoes and/or fresh fruit. Good parties, too, at places like BA fave El Rey, so here’s hoping we get the next invite. THE GOURMAND This London…

A YOUNG SHOPPER’S entry to luxury fashion used to be perfume. But execs at LVMH and Prada must have noticed millennials’ habit of blowing their paycheck on food, because both companies recently battled over two of Milan’s most historic cafés. Instead of launching their own restaurants (Ralph Lauren’s Polo Bar), opening an in-store franchise (Rose Bakery in Dover Street Market), or collaborating on pop-ups with a mega chef (Noma + Club Monaco), the luxury firms bought up centuries-old institutions near their boutiques around Via Monte Napoleone. Cova, 199 years old and now owned by LVMH, maintains its gilded aura, while Prada’s Pasticceria Marchesi, built in 1824, has been given a Miucciaesque makeover—complete with eyecatching packaging—for its second location. Wes Anderson recently designed the Bar Luce in the nearby Fondazione Prada—another…

THE TECHNOLOGIST DANIELLE GOULD CEO and founder, Food + Tech Connect Can technology fix the meat industry? Gould gets answers to questions like this at the hackathons she hosts for food-tech disruptors. Up next: With up to 5,000 people in food-tech companies and investments, Gould’s calling NYC the Silicon Valley of food. THE ACADEMIC WILLIAM ROSENZWEIG Dean and co-founder, Food Business School at the CIA When the Culinary Institute of America wanted to launch a business division, it tapped Rosenzweig. The savviest M.B.A. in food will teach courses like “Scale Up Your (Authentic) Food Business.” Up next: A graduate-level certificate program. THE RESTAURATEUR KIMBAL MUSK Co-founder, The Kitchen restaurants and The Kitchen Community The other Musk brother mixes business knowhow with a culinary degree to launch restaurants that source local…

Artisanal pickles, handthrown ceramics, and pour-over coffee helped turn the New York City borough into a name brand. But what happens now that those things exist more or less everywhere? A visit to Indianapolis (yes, Indianapolis) to learn what “locally made” means for the locals THE LOCAL BEER IS “CRAFT.” It costs $8 for a small plastic cup of stout that tastes like chocolate porridge. I set it on the bar and watch the liquid heave and crater from waves of feral folk-rock thrashing the packed room, coming from a bandanna’d blond kid onstage with a guitar, hair pasted to his pink face by righteous sweat. Band stickers cover random surfaces of this old building like scales on a halfscraped salmon. Upstairs it’s open studio night, and women in wool…

Chelsea Handler’s one must-have for a great dinner party will surprise no one who knows anything about the vodka-loving comedian: “Obviously, alcohol is necessary.” The former talk show host has entertained at her Bel Air home for years, mixing what she calls her “eclectic group of friends—the gardener and someone who’s in a movie coming out that week.” That’s the premise of her new Netflix docuseries, Chelsea Does, in which she gathers strangers for a dinner party to discuss the exact topics we’re normally told to avoid among strangers: racism, infidelity, and drugs. If guests feel shy at first, Handler’s strategy is to “just open up about myself and be honest and unguarded, and people respond in kind,” she says. “Also, alcohol.” When in doubt, there are always Handler’s surefire…