Innholdsfortegnelse for Nov-15 i Bon Appetit

THE VITALS Age 46 Hometown Greensboro, NC Current TV role Doctor Profession before he became an actor Doctor On-set snack Chocolatecovered blueberries Most-used kitchen appliance Microwave Last thing you ate? “My wife made fried rice with shrimp and I had a salad. I’m attempting to eat healthy right now.” Does your wife do a lot of the cooking? “She does virtually all the cooking—it’s for everybody’s benefit. I help with the ancillary stuff: I make a mean pot of rice, and I’ll get the coffee ready in the morning.” Biggest cooking disaster? “There are so many. There have been numerous times my wife will get something from Trader Joe’s and say, ‘Here’s some popcorn shrimp. Just put that in the oven.’ I have been known to overheat it and make…

Have yolks left from a recipe? Get curing. Don’t want to wait? Cure the yolks and freeze the whites in ice cube trays. THE PRO > CHRISTOPHER KOSTOW / THE RESTAURANT AT MEADOWOOD / ST. HELENA, CA THE NEXT TIME YOU SIP a Ramos gin fizz—all frothy with egg whites— or shatter a meringue, you may not think about all those egg yolks without a home. But resourceful chefs do. Rather than let the yolks go to waste, pros are turning them into a cutting-edge finishing touch, nestling them in a tub of salt and sugar until they’re transfigured into solid, dry-cured egg yolks. When finished, these nuggets of umami will get shaved over dish after dish like Technicolor Parmesan. At the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena, chef Christopher…

THREE HUNDRED SIXTY-FOUR days of the year, this carving set sits in a drawer. It only comes out for Thanksgiving, and it’s been doing that for about 50 years. The metal is high-carbon steel, and the handles are made from stag antlers. I have lots of other knives—I’m a chef!— but this is the only one that makes Thanksgiving feel like Thanksgiving. My wife’s grandfather’s family came to America from Prague with just a couple of belongings, and this carving set was one of them. Like a lot of immigrants from that time, her grandfather tended not to over-romanticize where he came from, so most of us don’t have a clue what the old country was really about. There’s a mystery there, which makes this set that much more appealing…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, I ORDERED THE BLT SALAD AT SWEET CHICK IN NYC AS AN AFTERTHOUGHT; IT ENDED UP BEING THE STAR OF OUR MEAL. PLEASE FIND THE RECIPE FOR THE SALAD AND LEMONY DRESSING! —Caitlin Rush, Washington, D.C. You’re invited to check out gorgeous photos of these dishes on bonappetit.com or on our tablet edition. No R.S.V.P. required. KALE BLT SALAD 4 SERVINGS Thick slab bacon is key to this dish. Buy it packaged, if you can find it, or from the butcher. ½ preserved lemon, chopped ⅓ cup creme fraiche ⅓ cup mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 12 oz. slab bacon, sliced ¾ " thick 8 cups chopped Tuscan kale 1 pint grape tomatoes, halved Process preserved lemon, crème fraîche,…

OVER THE YEARS I’VE DECLARED many wines “ideal” for Thanksgiving, from Italian Lambrusco to German Riesling. These are all dynamite choices. They’re just not what everyone wants. What everyone wants is Pinot Noir, and I’m tired of fighting it: Me and my Lambrusco are like the guy who insists on hearing his own awesome playlist at someone else’s party. Pinot Noir requires no proselytizing. Everybody knows it and enjoys it. Like a great host, it’s charismatic, diplomatic, and, on occasion, profound— a grape that deftly handles the motley crew of foods that is Thanksgiving. So why resist it? Aren’t the holidays stressful enough? 1 OLD-WORLD SPLURGE France The grape’s Holy Land is Burgundy, where it hits the sweet spot of complexity, juicy fruit, and electric acidity. You won’t necessarily see…

First Off: What Are You Willing to Give? TIME The charitable spirit moves a lot of people this season, but commitment typically tapers off after the holidays, leaving many organizations strapped come January. So here’s what you’re going to do: Bust out your new 2016 calendar and plan some visits to the soup kitchen (or whatever your organization of choice is) in the months ahead. $ MONEY Three charities we love: God’s Love We Deliver Bringing meals to those too sick to cook. (glwd.org) Charity: Water Every cent you give funds clean-water projects. Track your donation’s progress via satellite images. (charitywater.org) Farmworker Justice The green beans in that casserole? This group advocates for those who picked them. (farmworker justice.org) STUFF Call your local food pantry directly and ask what they…

1 Creamed Greens Tartine INSPIRED BY ZAK STERN OF ZAK THE BAKER, MIAMI Who needs turkey? If you have a couple cups of leftover creamed spinach or kale and a loaf of crusty bread, you have lunch. □ The trick to breathing new life into yesterday’s greens is reheating them with a generous amount of leftover gravy. Combine ¼ cup gravy for each cup cooked greens in a medium skillet and bring to a simmer over medium heat. If it’s saucy, it’s good. □ Shake some crispy onions from the canister, or make them yourself: Thinly slice 2 shallots into rings, transfer to a small saucepan, and add just enough vegetable oil to cover. Bring oil to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until shallots are golden brown, then drain…

Holiday eating is a study in paradox. You’re surrounded by food, but you’re so busy shopping and cooking that you don’t have time to eat. Then, when your blood sugar dips to the point of derangement, you make a desperate lunge for the closest foodstuff—and the next thing you know, you’ve eaten an entire box of regifted peppermint bark. We know a little something about this scenario in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen because it plays out more or less daily. We’ve managed to find a middle ground between juice fasting and Shake Shack: quick, feel-good (but not abstemious) meals. Let these recipes serve as your saviors before the feasting storm, keeping you sane (and hungry) for the big events. RESCUE RECIPE Take the Guilt Out of Carbs “This moist,…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS I N THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 130. If you’ve always wondered what Cuba was like beyond cigars and vintage cars, start packing: It’s time to witness a country at a moment of pivotal change. Havana is a party, no doubt, but it’s also a confusing place for Cubans and tourists alike. Cubans have a saying, No es fácil: It’s not easy. It applies to everything—food especially—in a place where cab drivers make more than doctors, and where a meal in a home restaurant can easily cost a month’s state salary. It’s a tricky city to break into, but with a little planning, it can change your life. Here are our seven tips to unlocking Havana. 1 ICE CREAM Don’t get funneled into…

SALT-AND-VINEGAR RÖSTI 12 SERVINGS We transformed the regular hands-on skillet method to a very hands-off oven technique. 4 lb. russet potatoes, peeled 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more 2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more 2 onions, thinly sliced 1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar Freshly ground black pepper Flaky sea salt Parboil potatoes in a large pot of boiling salted water just until a paring knife slides into the center with some resistance, 15–20 minutes. Drain; transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and chill uncovered until cold, at least 30 minutes. Place racks in highest and lowest positions in oven; preheat to 425°. Line two 8" cake pans with parchment; brush with 2 Tbsp. oil. Toss onions, vinegar, and 1 Tbsp. kosher salt in a large bowl. Let sit until onions are…

Thanksgiving gravy is like the top of a really good muffin: Everyone wants it, and when it’s truly delicious it makes up for whatever is underneath. The thick, velvety, lump-free gravy of your dreams becomes reality when the three core components—pan drippings, roux, and stock—come together as something way better than the sum of its parts. It takes a secret ingredient (sorry, allpurpose flour) and some long-distance whisking, but with our complete guide, you’ll have a silky-smooth sauce by the time the turkey’s carved. Because at the end of the day, it’s all (about) gravy, baby. CLASSIC GRAVY 1 STOCK UP A terrific gravy starts before you even put the turkey in the oven— you are making your own stock, right? The store-bought stuff just doesn’t compare. Ask your butcher…

HERBY BARLEY SALAD WITH BUTTER-BASTED MUSHROOMS 8 SERVINGS Any chewy grain, such as wheat berries, farro, or even brown rice, can replace the barley. 1 cup hulled, hull-less, or pearl barley Kosher salt 2 shallots, thinly sliced into rings ⅓ cup vegetable oil 2 Tbsp. olive oil 8 oz. mushrooms (such as maitake, chanterelle, and/or oyster), torn or cut into large pieces Freshly ground black pepper 2 sprigs thyme 1 garlic clove, crushed 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 cup chopped fresh parsley 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 . oz. Parmesan, shaved, plus more for serving Cook barley in a medium pot of boiling salted water until tender, 50–60 minutes for hulled or hull-less, 20–30 minutes for pearl. Drain; spread out on a baking sheet and…

POMEGRANATE SORBET PARFAIT 8 SERVINGS Who needs cranberries when you can have pomegranate juice? 3 cups pomegranate juice ½ cup fresh lime juice ½ cup sugar 1 cup labneh (Lebanese strained yogurt) or plain whole-fat Greek yogurt ¼ cup pistachios, coarsely chopped 3 Tbsp. black sesame seeds ¾ cup mild honey (such as clover) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: An ice cream maker Combine pomegranate juice, lime juice, sugar, and ½ cup water in a large bowl or measuring glass and stir to dissolve sugar. Process in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions. Transfer sorbet to an airtight container; cover and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. When ready to serve, scoop some sorbet into coupe or short glasses or small bowls and top with a spoonful of labneh, then some…

Some of us spend all year looking forward to the Thanksgiving meal. Not Marisa Tomei. “I’m not a fan of turkey,” the actress says. “And I can’t stand marshmallows on yams. No, no, no.” Her new film, Love the Coopers, focuses on a family’s tumultuous holiday reunion. Tomei’s own Thanksgiving, which rolls 25 relatives deep, is not without its own controversy: the menu. Every year Tomei appeals to her relatives to lean more toward their Italian roots and away from the classics. (See the napkin for her dream lineup.) “I’ve been arguing for turkey meatballs,” she says. And pumpkin pie? Please. “Instead I’ll eat toasted rosemary olive oil cake.” She’s certainly not going back for seconds of stuffing like the rest of us. “But talk to me at Christmas,” she…

Fill ’Er Up A gravy boat without gravy is like the Internet without cat vids: incomplete. For our guide to unbeatable gravy, turn to page 98.…

One Month Ahead Convince your friends Find a group that’s onboard. You only need three other people to make this thing official. Call your parents And tell them you’re not coming home this year. You can do it! You’re a grown-up! (Blame it on your job if you have to.) Three Weeks Ahead Plan the menu Friends don’t let friends cook the meal by themselves— this is a potluck. Set up a Google Doc with categories (e.g., “Stuffing x2”) that your guests can sign up for. Whoever is hosting cooks the bird. Two Weeks Ahead Need tables? If you’re short on table space, rent a few card tables. Don’t worry about how they look; an inexpensive tablecloth from Ikea or Target will do the trick. Get your glasses You don’t…

I’M NOT SURE WHEN I FELL IN LOVE WITH TEX-MEX, BUT I DO REMEMBER WHY. It was the bottomless basket of chips I’d eat until my stomach ached. It was the electric-yellow queso dip my father would inevitably drip on his pants. I’ve been indulging my nostalgia lately, thanks to some ambitious new restaurants. Yes, the meats are wood-grilled and heritage-breed, but don’t worry: Tex-Mex hasn’t gone virtuous. The chalupas are still as crispy as I remember, the enchiladas as blanketed in Monterey Jack. And my routine is always the same: Keep the chips coming, order me another margarita, and don’t touch the plate— it’s very hot! —ANDREW KNOWLTON 7 Signs You’re in a Tex-Mex Spot 1 The chips and salsa are complimentary. And they arrive before the water glasses.…

Big flavor comes in small slices. In our homemade riff on Korean barbecue, we cut very thin strips of meat, whose surface area can absorb a hot-sweet-salty marinade in minutes—not hours. Then all we need are some lettuce cups and store-bought kimchi, and dinner’s practically ready. To serve 4, grate ¼ pear and combine with 1 grated garlic clove, 2 Tbsp. soy sauce, 1 Tbsp. gochugaru or 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, 1 Tbsp. grated peeled ginger, 1 Tbsp. light brown sugar, and 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil in a large resealable plastic bag. Slice 1 lb. boneless short ribs, boneless pork loin, trimmed hanger steak, or skinless, boneless chicken breasts or thighs into very thin strips and add to marinade. Seal bag and squish everything around until the…

Celery Root Hash Peel 1 large celery root (celeriac) and 1 lb. sweet potatoes and cut into ¾" pieces. Cook celery root, sweet potatoes, 2 thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf, 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth, 3 Tbsp. olive oil, and ½ tsp. cayenne pepper in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, tossing occasionally, until vegetables are just beginning to soften and liquid is evaporated, 15–20 minutes. Add 1 sliced red onion and 1 thinly sliced garlic clove; season with salt and pepper and cook, tossing often and scraping up any browned bits, until vegetables are tender, 30–35 minutes. Remove thyme and bay leaf and toss in 5 crumbled cooked bacon slices. Serve topped with chopped fresh chives. 4 servings Celery Root and Carrot Soup Peel and chop ½ large…

GLAZED AND LACQUERED ROAST TURKEY 12 SERVINGS A little soy sauce in the glaze ensures the burnished mahogany skin that holiday memories are made of. But it’s not just for looks; this brined and buttered bird is seasoned inside and out. 1 12–14-lb. turkey, neck and giblets removed, patted dry 6 dried bay leaves 2 tsp. black peppercorns ½ tsp. allspice berries ½ cup kosher salt 2 Tbsp. dried sage ½ cup (packed) brown sugar, divided ¼ cup Sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar ¼ cup soy sauce 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces, room temperature Nonstick vegetable oil spray SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or a mortar and pestle Remove wishbone from turkey by lifting neck skin to expose meat and cutting along both sides of bone with…

BASIC RECIPE Preheat oven to 350°. Butter a shallow 3-qt. baking dish and a sheet of foil. Place bread* and any add-ins in a very large bowl. Heat 3 Tbsp. olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook meat, breaking up into small pieces if needed, until browned and cooked through, 7–10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to bowl with bread mixture. Add onions, celery, and any bonus aromatics to same skillet; season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring often, until onions are softened and browned around the edges, 10–12 minutes. Scrape aromatics into bowl with bread mixture. Return skillet to medium heat and pour in deglazing liquid; cook, scraping up any browned bits, until almost all liquid has evaporated. Add ½ cup butter and cook, stirring,…

BA RELATION THANKSGIVINGS HOSTED CAROLE LALLI Carla Lalli Music, food director At least 30 “My game plan starts Sunday. I have a grocery list that starts the same day—I reuse it every year. I was in the market one day, and a woman saw my printed-out list and said, ‘Oh, that’s very clever!’ I said, ‘It’s this or chaos.’ ” STEPHEN MOROCCO Chris Morocco, senior food editor 16 “If you did not help either set up or cook, you must clean up and wash. That’s a hard-and-fast rule. We try to ask people not to break glasses, but... we’ve been through a lot of glasses.” SUE RIVERA Stacey Rivera, digital director 50 “Spatchcocking? I’ve never—oh, Stacey did try to talk me into that. My daughter is always trying to get…

FROM P. 89 Tonic Boom A good tonic water will change the way you feel about G&Ts forever. Here are our picks. —ALISON ROMAN FEVER-TREE Perfectly carbonated (lots of tiny bubbles!), with the best flavor. Citrusy, woodsy, but not so strong it would overpower your favorite gin. Q DRINKS A more delicate tonic water with higher carbonation, it’s best paired with a more neutral alcohol like vodka. CANADA DRY Kind of like an adult 7UP. Sweeter than the others, but it’s the most affordable of the lot if you’re throwing a big, boozy party. We strongly recommend the 10-oz. bottles for the freshest fizz. FROM P. 91 SUCH A LITTLE GEM We love Little Gem lettuce for its compact shape and crisp, upturned leaves (which hold dressings and vinaigrettes superbly,…