Innholdsfortegnelse for Oct-15 i Bon Appetit

SMASH IT UP With all due respect to my colleagues, ignore what they tell you on the following 108 pages. I mean, sure, go ahead and marvel at the photos and chuckle at the headlines. But if you’re wondering what to prepare for your dinner guests this month, read my lips: Make burgers. I know what you’re thinking: But don’t I have to make something that will impress my friends? Something…ambitious? Sure, you can. But why not make something that’s guaranteed to be delicious? Something that’ll make guests lose their minds? Just hear me out. A few months ago, my wife and I threw a going-away party for friends. Thirty guests in our backyard. We got all fancy and classic with the cocktails (as we recommend on page 84). We…

1 I Woke Up Like This “Cut flowers at various lengths to give a picked-from-the-field look,” says Brittany Asch of NYC’s Brrch. Try it with one type of medium-size blooms—think poppies, ranunculus, or anemones. Buy more than you think you’ll need. 2 Get Low A great way to show off large blooms like sunflowers, dahlias, or garden roses. Cut the stems so the blooms lie just above the lip of the vase (but at slightly different heights). 3 The Gisele Show off wispy elements in a tall, skinny vase. Wildflowers, fountain grass, even tall herbs (rosemary— who knew?) create an airy feel. QUICK TIP Let Them Breathe Did you pick up a bouquet and jam it in that vase? We could tell. Arrangements should be full enough that the blooms…

THE VITALS Age 30 Hometown Burnsville, MN World Cup wins 67 Which makes her The winningest woman in World Cup history Halloween candy of choice Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups Dream dinner party guest Roger Federer What is your diet like when you’re training? “I eat foods that I like, but they’re more portioned, and the carb-to-proteinto-fat ratio is calculated in each meal. I eat a lot of fat in my diet—avocado, almond butter, olive oil, even bacon.” Are there foods you miss? “Cereal, frozen yogurt, ice cream, French toast. Pretty much everything.” Favorite cereal? “Fruity Pebbles.” Do you drink the milk at the end? “Onehundred percent. That’s the best part!” How do you eat when you’re not training? “I have whatever I want.” You mentioned French toast. Do you have…

RECIPES, TIPS, AND MENU IDEAS FROM OUR EXPERTS Our idea of magic mushrooms is crisp, golden (legal) substances with the power to lend a bass note of flavor to grain salads, turn a piece of ricotta toast into a meal, or stand alone as a savory side. To serve 4, heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Arrange 12 oz. mushrooms (such as maitake, oyster, and/or king trumpet), cut into large pieces, in skillet, and—this is key—just let them cook, undisturbed, until golden brown on bottom, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, toss, and continue to cook, tossing often and reducing heat as needed, until golden brown all over, about 5 minutes more. Reduce heat to medium; add 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, 2 thyme…

The City of Bridges is in the throes of a full-on nose-to-tail, barrel-aged, small-plates culinary renaissance. And if you didn’t know it, yinz (that’s “you all” in Pittsburghese) probably don’t know anyone from there. Locals are as psyched about their stylish new cadre of chef-driven restaurants as they are about their Steelers. (Okay, almost.) And it’s about time that we all started paying attention, because once the Ace Hotel opens this winter, the secret will be officially out. Now is the time to determine how many types of charcuterie it’s possible to consume in a single weekend and to get an earful of that one-of-a-kind Pittsburgh accent. Here are six different and delicious ways to tackle the Steel City. 1 Eat the New Pittsburgh’s recent crop of restaurants is lively…

TECHNIQUES , TIPS , AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN FROM P. 83 CARVING A RIB EYE How well you slice the steak is just as important as how perfectly it’s cooked. —ALISON ROMAN FROM P. 72 BALLER STATUS Think that melon baller languishing in your junk drawer is a one-trick pony? Think again. These are just some of its uses. —AMIEL STANEK Scoop the prickly choke out of artichokes. Portion out mini cookies or canapé-size drop biscuits. Of course, ball other firm, juicy fruits and veggies. Scrape the seeds out of an English cucumber. FROM P. 42 Faster Falafel Meat grinders are designed to break up food into a uniform consistency—exactly what you need for the ideal falafel. Plus, it’s faster than doing it in a food…

1 Pears “Create small clusters of fruit and spread them unevenly throughout the table,” says Sarah Helmstetter of Solabee Flowers in Portland, OR. Try it with tiny Seckel pears. 2 Figs Place the fruit on a platter, still-life style. 3 Pomegranates Mound them in a bowl, cracking a few for added color (unless you’ve got a white tablecloth…), or rest some next to votives. 4 Tangerines A bowlful will lend a beautiful burst of color. Added bonus if dessert encourages eating the centerpiece. 5 Quinces Scatter a few on the table and be prepared to hear “What is that?” Get Inspired Move over, avocado toast: We’ve expanded our Instagram fixations. Introducing the florists you’re about to fall hard for. Ruby Barber @ruby_marylennox Kristen Caissie @mooncanyon Taylor Patterson @foxfodderfarm Sarah Ryhanen @saipua Sarah Winward @sarah_winward QUICK…

WE DON’T KNOW ABOUT YOU, but we can spend an entire day with our kids and feel like we haven’t managed a single meaningful interaction. How’d you sleep? Fine. How was school? Good. How much do you love me? Ugh, stop. We’re certainly not the first generation of parents to deal with this communication breakdown, but we are the first to compete with Snapchat, Instagram, and the entire freaking Internet for our kids’ attention. But here’s the good news: Dinner with your kids can be the first step in resurrecting the lost art of genuine conversation. For most parents, this concept is probably intuitive, but it turns out there’s science behind it. In her bracing new book, Reclaiming Conversation, MIT psychologist Sherry Turkle explains that the rituals of dinner are…

The Winner ELECTROLUX MASTERPIECE COLLECTION IMMERSION BLENDER With its powerful (yet quiet) 300-watt motor and tripleblade design, this blender justified its price tag, pulverizing roasted veg into a velvety soup three times faster than most other hand blenders. The “soft start” feature gradually brings it to full speed so that ingredients don’t go flying, while the extra-wide blade deck and footing made it the most stable and easiest to handle. Even while the blender shows all that muscle, its controls are comfortable to operate. $230; available for purchase mid-October, electrolux appliances.com HOW WE TESTED THE BLENDERS ✓ The Smoothie Test: How powerful is this thing? Can it pulverize frozen fruit? ✓ The Soup Test: Am I going to get splattered? How comfortable is it to hold for 5–10 minutes? ✓…

For info on products in this story, see Sourcebook on page 116. Want to see more from these kitchens (and how to get the look)? Go to bonappetit.com /kitchen. 1 Turn Your Kitchen into a Restaurant Italian architect and Boffi designer Piero Lissoni transformed his Tuscan kitchen into a Japanese restaurant, seating guests around him while he cooks. “For me, the kitchen is like a twilight zone,” he says. “Hanging around with your friends or family, everything becomes a bit more relaxed.” MIX UP THE SEATING Lissoni likes to play with genres around the counter. He has Fritz Hansen stools, French bistro chairs, and ones designed by James Irvine for Cappellini in the ‘90s—an influence seen in these Tom Dixon Slab chairs. KEEP IT SUPER CLEAN The island surrounding the…

SAZERAT This potent New Orleans nightcap is as much about the aromatic absinthe rinse as it is the Cognac and rye. Home Away from Home IN A PERFECT WORLD, we’d all move to London and live in the Chiltern Firehouse hotel. After a long day, we’d breeze home, where a white-jacketed bartender would slide us a deftly mixed Vesper (or Manhattan or Negroni) in a cut-crystal glass. And then we’d just savor the moment, admiring the glow of the gently calibrated lighting and the elegant lines of the marble-topped horseshoe bar. A great hotel watering hole like the one at Chiltern does this to you: It transports, it calms, it soothes. American hotelier André Balazs, who converted the 126-year-old building into a hotel last year, has a knack for this…

SHOPPING LIST THE COOLEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE pp.56–62 AMEICO SCONCE $329; ameico.com BENJAMIN MOORE PAINT From $38 per gallon; benjaminmoore.com EX-LIBRIS SHELVING UNIT For information, go to porro.com GAGGENAU STOVETOP For information, go to gaggenau.com LA CINTURA POTS See website for prices; alessi.com SALVAGED WOOD KITCHEN ISLAND Starting at $1,295; restorationhardware.com SHELF BRACKETS $99 each; rejuvenation.com SUB-ZERO FRIDGE $16,615; subzero-wolf.com TOM DIXON CHAIR $1,220 for set of two; allmodern.com FALL FORWARD pp. 64–73 SPANISH WINE GLASSES $8 each; comingsoonnewyork.com YOU AND ME pp. 76–83 ALAIN SAINT-JOANIS MITO FIVE-PIECE PLACE SETTING $250; michaelcfina.com CHRISTOFLE JARDIN D’EDEN CHINESE EBONY ROSE GOLD CHOPSTICKS $360; michaelcfina.com HERMÈS VOYAGE EN IKAT BREAD AND BUTTER PLATE IN SAPPHIRE $230; michaelcfina.com JEAN-LOUIS COQUET HEMISPHERE VINYL STRIPE DINNER PLATE $149; michaelcfina.com MOSER OPTIC DOUBLE OLD FASHIONED GLASS…

Home Entertaining GUESTIMATE What’s the perfect number for a dinner party? The Roman scholar Marcus Terentius Varro said: No fewer than the Graces (three), and no more than the Muses (nine). The epicure Brillat-Savarin declared the maximum to be 12. A good rule is: Four = Intimate Six = Gossipy Eight = A party Ten = An occasion BOTTLED UP If a guest brings a bottle of wine, must I open it right away? A gift is a gift, so serving or cellaring is your prerogative. Feel free to set bottles aside—especially if you’ve planned wines to go with the meal. Tag unopened bottles to avoid regifting mortification, or to enjoy them with their donors another time. LENIENCY Is it rude to put an elbow on the table? You should…

THE PRO ELI DAHLIN / CHEF DAMN THE WEATHER, SEATTLE ARE YOU THE KIND OF PERSON who would eat all of the salty burnished skin off of a resting Thanksgiving bird if no one were looking? Then you’re living in a golden age, my friend. At restaurants right now, crispy skin isn’t just the best part of a given piece of protein but its own stand-alone hedonistic ingredient. And while some chefs are using it to add texture and richness to a dish in the form of a garnish, others are putting it right at the center of the plate. Eli Dahlin, chef at Seattle’s Damn the Weather, serves a whole bowl of shatteringly crisp chicken skins tossed with peanuts, chiles, and lime—a riff on Chinese salt-and-pepper squid— and customers…

Trick or Treat? No, really. That’s what we’re asking after sampling a new trend: barely sweet chocolate bars. Two to try: Antidote’s creative raw-chocolate bars and Dandelion’s bold 100% cacao bar. Tray Chic Can’t decide between ceramist Andrew Molleur’s geometric platters? No need to pick—the pieces work solo or look great stacked. From $40; andrewmolleur.com John Besh on... Progresso Italian Style Bread Crumbs “You can say all you want about making your own, but look in the cupboard of any New Orleans cook and you will find that box of seasoned bread crumbs!” Find more of his advice in the new book Besh Big Easy ($25). TWO EYES , EIGHT APPENDAGES, THREE CRAZY OCTO-OPTIONS Befriend Jocelyn Gayle’s 11-inch hand-dyed needle-felted octopus toy. $250 (not a typo); etsy.com/shop/petitfelts Snorkel at the…

Falafel’s rep as cheap (drunk) student food is on its way out thanks to places like New York’s Taim and L.A.’s Madcapra, which take sourcing and technique seriously. We’re especially enamored of the crispy, herby falafel served at London’s Honey & Co. (Make that obsessed: Editors invented excuses to be in the test kitchen whenever they knew there was falafel being fried.) Behind it are husband-and-wife owners Itamar Srulovich and Sarit Packer, Ottolenghi alums who transform street fare into a riot of colors and textures. Set out a platter of just-fried falafel, zippy green tahini, and pomegranatebrightened cabbage slaw, and your friends will be drunk with excitement. Cheap thrills indeed. —Christine Muhlke Shredded Cabbage Salad with Pomegranate and Tomatoes 8 SERVINGS You can stuff this slawlike salad inside your pita, or…

SPICED PEAR UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE 8 SERVINGS Make sure the cake pan you’re using is at least 2" deep; the batter will rise to the very top while baking and will overflow in a shallow pan. 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, plus more for pan 1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pan 3 Tbsp. fresh orange juice ¼ cup pomegranate molasses, plus more for serving 1¾ cups sugar, divided 4 small ripe Bosc pears (about 1 .½ lb.), peeled, halved lengthwise, cored 1 cup unsalted, roasted walnuts 1½ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. ground cardamom 4 large eggs 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest 1 cup olive oil Preheat oven to 350˚. Butter a 10"-diameter cake pan and line bottom with a parchment paper…

ROAST CHICKENS AND SAUSAGES FOR A CROWD 8 SERVINGS One of the centerpieces of Butch Anthony’s outdoor dining room is a massive firepit-grill outfitted with vintage Dutch ovens, which were buried in embers to cook these chickens. We’ve adapted the method for a regular oven. ½ cup kosher salt 2 Tbsp. freshly cracked black pepper 2 bay leaves 10 sprigs rosemary, divided 1 orange, halved 2 3½–4-lb. chickens 1 large apple, quartered 1 large onion, unpeeled, quartered 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 2 lb. sausages (such as andouille) or tasso 6 large shallots, unpeeled, halved Bring salt, pepper, bay leaves, 4 rosemary sprigs, and 10 cups water to a boil in a large pot. Squeeze juice from orange halves into pot, add orange halves, and stir to combine. Let brine cool.…

For Claire Danes, starring on Showtime’s celebrated Homeland (back this month!) requires making certain sacrifices. It’s not just the exhaustive preparation that goes into playing an intense character like the bipolar CIA operative Carrie Mathison. Or packing up her family to live overseas for months at a time. Sometimes it requires giving up her favorite foods. “We were filming in Morocco for about a month, and we couldn’t eat fresh vegetables,” Danes says with a laugh. “We all started talking about our favorite salads in pornographic terms.” Her centerfold? The avocado and arugula bowl at Omen in New York. And then there’s her at-home regular: fennel—sliced thin!—with feta and toasted nuts, diagrammed below. A produce-packed reminder that there’s no place like Homeland. YOU CAN’T TAKE IT WITH YOU “When I…