Innholdsfortegnelse for Aug-15 i Bon Appetit

THE VITALS Age 36 Hometown New York City A fan of Molecular gastronomy Weird dessert she gets behind Smoked ice cream Favorite condiment Barbecue sauce Quiche strategy A little egg, a lot of fun stuff Last thing you ate? “I’m currently eating mixed organic quinoa that I made with smoked turkey. It doesn’t sound sexy, but I had a big fat croissant for breakfast.“ Are you a good cook? “I consider myself a good layman’s cook. Ninety percent of the time I’m successful with what I set out to make, and I can improvise. Yes, I own a mandoline. Yes, we have a Vitamix.“ Any signature dishes? “I’m a quiche maker. I also do a mean roast chicken.“ Any roast-chicken tips? “I used to be vegan, so I feel bad…

Bitter and bossy seeks warm and sweet: This robust dressing is capable of standing up to—and slightly softening—acerbic greens like dandelion or arugula. (Maybe it’s the bacon….) Heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook 2 oz. chopped guanciale (salt-cured pork jowl), pancetta (Italian bacon), or bacon, stirring occasionally, until browned and crisp, about 4 minutes. Add 2 chopped shallots, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add 4 cups fresh corn kernels and cook 2 minutes. Let cool slightly, then stir in 3 Tbsp. Sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar and 1 Tbsp. olive oil. Toss 1 bunch dandelion greens or arugula (about 8 cups) and warm dressing in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Serve…

in my first column for Bon Appétit in May, I mentioned the trains that frequently rumble over my team’s test kitchen. Set in an arch under a railway line in London’s Camden Town, the kitchen is on the mezzanine of an industrial warehouse; the bottom half of the bare-bones space is used as storage for our busy bakery in the arch next door. Here you’ll find five-liter tins of olive oil, crates of tahini, buckets of sea salt, and trays of dukka, lavash, and preserves ready to be cooked with or sent out to the Ottolenghi shops. This constant movement means that, whatever the season and whatever the weather, the doors to the arch are always wide open. As a result, those of us shivering upstairs for most of the…

Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com* THE CHEF SAYS “This dish is a staple, especially when sweet corn is in season. We also serve it cold, so if you don’t want to turn on your oven, it makes a really refreshing dip when not baked.” MICHAEL CARRINO, chef and co-owner, Pig & Prince GRILLED CORN AND CHILE DIP 4 SERVINGS You can assemble this elote-inspired party starter ahead of time, and then bake right before you’re ready to serve it. 6 ears of corn, husked 4 poblano chiles 3 scallions, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, finely grated 8 oz. creme fraiche 8 oz. sour cream 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 3 Tbsp. hot sauce (such as Cholula), plus more for serving Kosher salt, freshly…

THE PROS ANNABELLE TOPACIO & IAN FLORES Owners / Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous / San Francisco CHOCOLATE. VANILLA. The ice cream we’re talking about is so not that stuff. Today it’s all about the grown-up (and amped-up) flavor combinations emerging from inventive new-school scoop shops from coast to coast. How obsessed are we with these next-level ice creams? Enough that I flew across the country to learn how the team at Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous (a.k.a. Mr. Ian Flores and Ms. Annabelle Topacio) churn out flavors like brown butter–sage, bourbon old-fashioned, and bananas Foster. Their method starts with an infused custard and ends with unique ideas for mix-ins, and it’s so simple, anyone can do it at home. For the fundamentals of creating a flavor, keep reading. For a recipe…

THREE WAYS TO FRESHEN UP YOUR FRUIT SALAD 1 Keep It Simple Stick with one or two in-season fruits, and play around with fun pairings—sweet with tart, for instance. 2 Season Smartly A pinch of salt goes a long way to bring out the sugars in fruit, and a splash of citrus or vinegar helps to balance out the dish. 3 Dabble in Aromatic Therapy Fragrant spices, grated ginger or lemongrass, and fresh herbs add complexity when you least expect it. Mom: If you’re reading this, know that I love you. I just don’t love your fruit salad. I get it: You wanted us all to eat more fruit. Totally fair. But the roughly chopped apples and whole-grapes thing never quite worked for me. And bananas?! Don’t get me started.…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 100. L.A. has more oldschool restaurants than a place obsessed with the cool new thing deserves. And by old school, we mean the kinds of places where the chef’s tattoos are from 20th-century wars, there’s likely a “chops and steaks” section on the menu, and waiters wear red tuxedos without irony. Here, six ways to enjoy America’s capital of retro-fabulous. 1 Come for a Martini; Stay for Another MUSSO & FRANK GRILL EST. 1919 Sure, you could get a steak in the grill room, but the thing that makes Musso’s Musso’s is the martini—served in a perfectly sized glass, with a little “sidecar” of the excess. Grab a stool in the vast barroom and order one so…

1Dry Our low-tech, picturesque strategy for drying herbs requires only a sunny space and a simple length of twine; the result will be more potent and vibrant than anything you’ve bought in a jar. Choose sturdy herbs that won’t turn to dust once air-dried (see our favorites, opposite). Store them individually in snazzy jars or ziptop bags, or create your own custom blends— never buy musty “Italian Seasoning” again! 3 STEPS TO Perfectly Dried Herbs 1 BUNDLE Gather herbs by the stems. Tie together about halfway up the stem, making sure the herbs aren’t squished too tightly. 2 HANG Suspend herbs upside down in a sunny window (tie to a curtain rod) or any dry, well-lit place (pot racks are just right for this). 3 DRY After a week or…

A summer cocktail plays by different rules. It needs to be pretty simple— you’re not playing mixologist in your swimsuit—but more impressive than a bucket of beers. It should be refreshing enough to stand up to the heat and—like a good work outfit— be able to go from day to night. Picture farmstand-fueled syrups, beachy elixirs over mountains of ice, and splashy three-ingredient sparklers. Enter the shrub, the swizzle, and the spritz, our cocktails of the season. The Shrub Chefs are always telling us to add more acid to food. The same goes for cocktails. That’s why we love shrubs: fruit-and-vinegar syrups to add to booze, soda, or both. The acidic tinge brings out the fruit flavor without overloading on the sweet for a complextasting, easy-mixing cocktail. Make your own…

FOOD PUNS INTENDED A few of the best witticisms from Greet ‘N’ Potatoes’ cards: “Mark Your Colander” “Nothing Camparis to You” “Absinthe-Mindedly, I Forgot Your Birthday” $5 each at greetnpotatoes.com Minibar Makeover There’s more in hotel fridges than lilliputian Absolut bottles. The Epiphany Hotel in Palo Alto, CA, offers a Smeg fridge with cold-pressed juices, nut milks, and farmers’ market salads. $95 upon advance request; epiphanyhotel.com DAISY AND INFUSED Chamomile is outgrowing its rep as the snoozy tea selection. The flowers’ herbaceous aroma (and soothing vibe) is being infused into everything from ice cream (at Contra in New York) to gin (for the Snake-Bit Sprout cocktail at Julep in Houston). You’re getting very sleepy… Where’s Rapo? This month you’ll find our golf-obsessed editor in chief, Adam Rapoport, in Kohler, WI,…

If your home kitchen is equipped with a restaurant-quality range and a hood capable of venting a small forest fire, you can stop reading now. If, on the other hand, your stove looks like most of ours— as in lacking in the high-heat and ventilation departments— it’s time to start thinking about an outdoor propane burner. (Yeah, like the ones people use to fry turkeys.) Why? Because with 30,000 BTUs of raw power below and the open sky above, great things become possible. We’re talking about an epic fried-food party that doesn’t make your house smell like a Long John Silver’s. Or a Paul Prudhomme– worthy backyard seafood boil that doesn’t take three hours just to, well, boil. Sure, D.I.Y. smoked salmon might sound like some fantasy-world food nerdery, but…

Spaghetti with No-Cook Tomato Sauce and Hazelnuts 4 SERVINGS This raw tomato sauce gets texture from zucchini and body from toasted nuts that are blended into the base. You can sub almonds for hazelnuts. ½ cup blanched hazelnuts 1 lb. cherry tomatoes, halved 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more 12 oz. spaghetti or linguine 1 beefsteak tomato, chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 cup basil leaves, divided 2 small zucchini (about 8 oz.), coarsely grated ¼ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling Freshly ground black pepper 1 oz. ricotta salata (salted dry ricotta), shaved Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop. Place cherry tomatoes in a large bowl; season with…

Flank Steak Tartare with Carrot-Top Salsa Verde 6 SERVINGS Tartare should be served very cold and right after making. If needed, prep the ingredients ahead and chill them; assemble at the last minute. 2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more 1 small carrot, very thinly sliced on a mandoline, plus ¼ cup chopped carrot tops 1 oil-packed anchovy fillet 1 small garlic clove, halved ¼ cup chopped fresh basil ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for drizzling ½ lb. flank steak, preferably grass-fed, cut into ⅛" pieces ½ small shallot, finely chopped Freshly ground black pepper ½ sourdough baguette or small round, thinly sliced ½ cup baby sorrel leaves (optional) Prepare a grill for…

FROM P. 57 Easy Being Green Juicing is approaching quinoa in the race for mainstream dominance. So even if you don’t have a juice bar on your corner, you can still get your fix. Here are three nationally available green juices we’d gladly pick up at the supermarket. —BELLE CUSHING SUJA GREEN SUPREME The entry-level green: kale, apple, and lemon for a clean sweetness. $9 for 16 oz.; sujajuice.com BLUEPRINT We love its vegetal green (with ginger for zing). $10 for 16 oz.; blueprint.com EVOLUTION FRESH GREEN DEVOTION Celery, spinach, cukes, parsley, kale, and lemon in a not-too-sweet mix. $5 for 11 oz.; evolutionfresh.com FROM P. 14 SWIZZLE IT ( A LITTLE BIT ) You don’t need a branch from the Quararibea turbinata tree (a.k.a. the swizzlestick tree) to make…

You’d think Kevin Bacon would be sick of his namesake meat, but no: His favorite sandwich is a souped-up B.L.T. that also features creamy avocado and ribbons of smoked salmon. In other words, a B.L.A.S.T., one of many homemade dishes that doubles as a distraction from his dark roles, like the lapsed alcoholic who led an FBI investigation in The Following and the coked-up sheriff at the rotten core of the new indie film Cop Car. “I’m either killing someone or someone’s trying to kill me,” Bacon says. “Cooking and eating are perfect ways to relax and get out of that headspace.” Sometimes that means fish tacos with fresh corn tortillas (flour need not apply), chicken with olives and dates, or pasta puttanesca, which he cooks with his wife, the…