Innholdsfortegnelse for September/October 2022 i Bake from Scratch

IS IT FALL OR IS IT BAKING SEASON? The two are eternally linked in my mind, as I can’t think of autumn foliage without the warm smell of spice, butter, and golden streusel coming to mind. Baking and fall are natural complements as far as I’m concerned, and our September/October issue is a celebration of that. From an in-depth look at making your own Marbled Rye Bread to a DIY spice mix primer, this issue makes the most of all the fall feels. Those of you who live for the rich crunch of streusel, head straight to our 4 Ways with Streusel story, where we heighten the texture of cookies, cakes, and pie with the baker’s version of magic fairy dust. If your fall checklist always comes with a trip…

It’s hard to imagine the Mariupol, Ukraine, of Olga Koutseridi’s childhood, where a carefree child would walk with her grandmother amongst the open-air markets, snacking on a bublik while they shopped for that night’s dinner. The Mariupol of today exists in a state of devastation that is far removed from idyllic memories. Besieged by the Russian army and ravaged by bombs at press time for this article, the city and its people became one of the first grand casualties of the Russia-Ukraine war. Olga had to watch from Austin, Texas, as her grandmother and aunt’s home city was reduced to rubble, and they became refugees in their own country. But there was something else Olga began to fear: cultural erasure. When the dust settled, would the Ukrainian culture be as…

FIG-BRANDY LOAF CAKE Makes 1 (8½x4½-inch) cake Brandy-soaked dried figs and chopped fresh figs combine in this moist and tender cocoa-infused loaf cake to create a simple yet sophisticated treat perfect for dinner parties and laid-back afternoon snacks alike. A spiked chocolate glaze adds a touch of sweetness and polished glossy finish, helping the fresh figs on top pop. 2 ounces (57 grams) dried Black Mission figs, cut into ¼-inch pieces (about ⅓ cup)⅓ cup (80 grams) brandy1¼ cups (156 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (8 grams) all-purpose flour, divided⅓ cup (25 grams) sifted Dutch process cocoa powder1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking powder¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt⅔ cup (147 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room temperature⅓ cup (75 grams) vegetable oil¼ cup (50 grams)…

CINNAMON RAISIN MILK BREAD Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf An elevated take on the enduring classic, this lofty, swirled bread can be enjoyed plain, buttered, toasted, or as the sweet bookends to a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. 3¼ to 3½ cups (406 to 437 grams) all-purpose flour⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar2½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) kosher salt2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast2 teaspoons (4 grams) ground cinnamon⅔ cup (160 grams) whole milk¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter1 tablespoon (14 grams) neutral oilTangzhong (recipe follows)2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature and divided½ cup (80 grams) assorted raisins 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat 1 cup (125 grams) flour, sugar, salt, yeast, and cinnamon at low speed until combined. 2. In a medium…

When the air turns crisp, the leaves take on brilliant shades of amber and gold, and the apple trees are weighed down with fruit, it’s officially orchard season. Though the hayrides and rows upon rows of apple trees are sure to delight, there’s one treat that truly captures the essence of fall: the apple cider doughnut. Best served piping hot from a farm stand or your favorite apple orchard shack, apple cider doughnuts, or simply cider doughnuts, are the epitome of fall flavor. Crisp, golden, and craggy on the outside but tender on the inside, the doughnuts often get a generous dusting of cinnamon sugar before being served to eagerly awaiting orchard-goers. Despite their more widespread popularity now thanks to nationwide doughnut chains and packaged varieties, cider doughnuts didn’t really…

Cast your mind to a time before pumpkin spice lattes, jack-o-lanterns, or Washington Irving’s gothic tale, Sleepy Hollow. It’s almost impossible to imagine an age when the pumpkin wasn’t the grand orange harbinger of the fall season and the unofficial crest of autumn. In other words, pumpkin isn’t just a fall pantry essential—it’s a cultural icon. When you’re working with an icon, it’s best to approach the experience with a certain level of respect, reverence, and research. First, let’s tackle fresh pumpkin. Though fresh pumpkin can yield delicious roasted pumpkin seeds, most bakers prize it for the mildly sweet, divinely creamy pumpkin puree they can make out of it. There are hundreds of varieties of pumpkins out there, but the most commonly found pumpkins at grocery stores are the giant…

ONION-POPPY SEED BIALYS Makes 12 bialys Brought to the US by Polish Jewish immigrants in the 1800s, the bialy is now a Northeastern Jewish bakery staple most often compared to bagels. But unlike the bagel, bialys are round with an indent, not rings, and baked without boiling. We kept things classic with a seasoned Caramelized Onion Filling surrounded by pillowy-soft dough sprinkled with sesame and poppy seeds. Though these beauties are delicious slathered with butter or cream cheese, they’re an absolute treat served fresh from the oven, too. 6 cups (762 grams) bread flour, divided1¼ teaspoons (3 grams) instant yeast*, divided1 cup (240 grams) water, room temperature (70°F/21°C to 75°F/24°C)5 teaspoons (15 grams) kosher salt1 cup (240 grams) warm water (120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C)1 teaspoon (3 grams) black sesame seeds1 teaspoon…

HONEY-ALMOND CAKE Makes 1 (8-inch) cake This honeyed cake is perfect for marking the sweet occasion of Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, or the conclusion of a crisp autumn night. Almonds, ginger, and honey are the main flavor notes in the cake, while applesauce and sour cream help contribute to a supremely tender crumb. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature6 tablespoons (126 grams) honey, divided¼ teaspoon (1 gram) almond extract1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour¾ cup (72 grams) superfine almond flour2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground ginger¾ cup (180 grams) unsweetened applesauce⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (95 grams) whole milk, room temperature⅓ cup (80 grams) sour cream, room…

LET THEM EAT CAKE! Our editor-in-chief, Brian Hart Hoffman, has long been a believer that cake doesn’t require a specific celebration. In The Cake Collection (83 Press, 2022), cake makes every occasion special and every day a little sweeter. From “Fresh & Fruity” to “Caked in Chocolate,” each chapter is packed full of fun and inventive flavors and designs. Be sure to check out the Peanut Butter & Jelly Cake; it was a favorite during recipe testing for a reason. Whether served as the elegant finale to a dinner party or the joyous centerpiece of a birthday celebration, the cakes in this book guarantee satisfaction by the slice. Available now, $29.95 A BAKE FOR EVERY KIND OF DAY Nadiya Hussain, author of Nadiya Bakes and Time to Eat, has recipes…

Deliciously rich with nutty pecans, a sweet caramellike filling, and a flaky, buttery piecrust, pecan pie is a true Southern staple. And with pecan harvest typically starting in late September and extending into November, the timing couldn’t be more perfect for fall baking season. Despite the pecan’s front and center role in both the name and the taste of this pie, we have a different ingredient to thank for this pie’s rise to fame. In 1898, the first recipe to closely resemble what we now know as pecan pie was printed in a church charity cookbook in St. Louis, Missouri, submitted by a Texas woman. However, the pie was still widely unknown outside of the South. But all that would change in the 1930s when a promotional recipe for a…

At once earthy, tangy, and nutty, with a mesmerizingly striking swirl, marbled rye bread is as mutilayered as the realm of bread it belongs to. A hardy ancient grain, rye’s ability to thrive in poorer soils and wetter, cooler climes has made it a prime crop in northern and eastern Europe since the Middle Ages. Although the grain is now produced in other parts of the world, the “rye belt” stretches from the Germany-France border through Poland, Scandinavia, and the Baltic states all the way into Russia. Several tasty rye traditions traveled with immigrants from those countries to lands abroad, and many bready homages, recreations, and offshoots ensued. For some, the words “rye bread” might spark cravings for an almost ebony-hued loaf or a lighter-crumbed situation. Rye breads can be…

CHERRY SWEDISH FLOP Makes 1 (13x9-inch) cake Though its name may suggest otherwise, this fluffy, yeasted cake is a Midwest favorite, boasting layers of tender cake, silky Browned Butter Ermine Frosting, sweet cherry preserves, and a crisp, crumbly Browned Butter Streusel. Similar to a coffee cake, this Cherry Swedish Flop is delicious any time of day. ⅔ cup (160 grams) warm whole milk (110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C)2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) instant yeast¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar¼ cup (57 grams) Browned Butter (recipe follows), melted and cooled slightly2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature1 teaspoon (3 grams) tightly packed orange zest1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract2 cups (250 grams) plus 2 teaspoons (6 grams) all-purpose flour, divided½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher saltBrowned Butter Streusel (recipe follows)Browned Butter Ermine…

Orchard Pick Johnson Orchards Yakima, Washington For more than 100 years, Johnson Orchards has brought Yakima Valley, Washington, plenty of beautiful produce, from peak-summer cherries to fresh autumn pears. At the flagship bakery, the Little Bake Shop, the orchards’ fresh produce is spun into baking gold, from Caramel Apple Pies to Lemon Danish. Its signature cookie is the Pear Oat Crispie, an oatmeal cookie packed with sweet pear morsels and buttery flavor. Orchard Pick The 200 Acres Arthur, Illinois Once a homestead farm and now a bustling business, the 200 Acres is known for the Great Pumpkin Patch, an annual gourd extravaganza where outsiders are invited to admire around 300 varieties of pumpkin and squash grown there. At its Homestead Bakery, pumpkin delicacies are the order of the day, from…

PUMPKIN SNICKERDOODLE MUFFINS Makes 12 muffins An inviting blend of warm snickerdoodle spice and delicately sweet pumpkin, these muffins offer a punched-up autumn flavor profile. Best of all, the stir-together batter can be whipped up in a flash and the Snickerdoodle Streusel can be made ahead, supplying the perfect baked good when you need to make something delicious on the fly. 2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar2¼ teaspoons (11.25 grams) baking powder1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg1 (15-ounce) can (425 grams) pumpkin pureé⅔ cup (149 grams) vegetable oil½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room temperature3 large eggs (150 grams), room temperatureSnickerdoodle Streusel (recipe…