Innholdsfortegnelse for No. 25-4 i Australian Stitches

Where is the year going … February 2017 already! I don’t normally make New Year resolutions, that get too easily forgotten, but this year I promised myself to sew more! So far I’ve kept to this, and I’ve made a couple of simple dresses and a blouse. Next, I’ll have to start thinking about autumn/winter styles to create … thank you Eddi for the inspirations you have shared on the pages of this issue! I hope you find inspiration for your own sewing projects, a personal fit concern solved, learn something new. Until next time, happy sewing! PS. If you have a story to share, or a new garment you have created, we’d love to hear from you. Please email me at stitches@wpco.com.au .…

Throughout this article we will discuss ideas pertaining to the uneven hemline – asymmetrical styles, plus the tiered story. You may immediately pass your eye over this article without much interest, but consider reading on regardless because there is some valuable information concerning figure balancing that can still be useful. The most important concept to grasp regarding asymmetry and ›ered garments is the principle of balance. Any new fashion can work if basic principles of design are applied to its use. When the rules are ignored … disasters happen! Styling asymmetrical and tiered hemlines An asymmetrical hem is any design that is inten›onally uneven at the hemline. Handkerchief, draped, fishtail, shaped and ›ered hemlines are included in this group. Current fashion shows balanced and unbalanced handkerchief and draped hems, along…

MATERIALS Roller or PVC pipe Satay s›cks Assorted cu›ers Polymer clay Old twin needle – 4mm or 6mm Drill bit inserted in waste clay ‘sausage’ (Bake the sausage and glue the bit into pre-made hole a›er baking) Texture sheet Ceramic ›le Types of clay When the clay comes out of the package it is crumbly and firm; the amount depends on the brand. All clays are mixable; if you want to combine different colours just bake at the lowest recommended temperature. Modelene: is strong and available in all the basic colours. Premo – ‘art’ colours: is strong and also comes in translucent and metallic colours. Fimo or Sculpey 111: these are not as strong as the Modelene and Premo, so the bu›ons need to be made thicker or make extra…

Night For Day WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR FIRST AT THE START OF A NEW SEASON - THE THINGS THAT GIVE FASHION A DIFFERENT BEAT. What does that best (and fastest!) is a change of a›tude, especially when it comes to fabrics. Those that used to be reserved strictly for evening now see the light of day, especially the rich brocades and shiny jacquards that have emerged over the last few seasons for dinner dressing. Now they make quite an impact in slick day›me coats and jackets, especially when thrown over more casual gear such as a knit top and jeans. Even a richly fabricated accessory such as a gleaming devoré scarf, boots in the most lavish brocade or crystal studded ballet flats instantly rev up even the most mundane basics.…

There is a bigger variety than ever of great dresses this autumn/ winter ... (and as we all know, a great dress at this ›me of the year is quite hard to come by!). More o›en than not, they look best in prints. A print dress used to be something that was only in abundance throughout spring and summer, but now they make quite a statement, and in so many different ways! Naturally, these sorts of prints are quite different from those super-bright, summer-y ones. They are generally darker, more subdued and inherently more sophis›cated, to stand up to the season’s more substan›al fabrics, tailored silhoue›es, and dressed-up mood. They are also easier to wear head-to-toe in a single piece because they aren’t so bright and splashy. When in doubt,…

The off the shoulder look is the defining feature of many 2016 designer collec›ons. In the age of social media, trends can come and go fast, but off the shoulder garments have gone beyond a flee›ng Instatrend to become a wardrobe staple. So why is it suddenly the hot new trend worn by starlets and gracing catwalks around the globe? Off the shoulder looks fla›er all body shapes – it’s a way to show some skin without going crazy! Different interpreta›ons of the look can suit different ages and levels of bravery. The younger millennials can show more shoulder with complete off the shoulder styles. The older crowd can opt for the less daring cold shoulder looks, where a hint of shoulder or a glimpse of triceps is shown. Whichever…

It doesn’t ma›er how great those clothes are, accessories make or break any look … and the right ones will do so much! Nothing is faster or easier to update or add personality to anything you wear ... and this season, they move from being mere suppor›ng players to arrive as the star a›rac›on. Bags get rich in deeply shaded exo›c textures, belts become works of art cinching your waist, while jewellery goes for the bold in dis›nc›ve, individual looking cuffs, arty earrings and standout pendants or necklaces, to make the strongest accessory statements of the season.…

FEMININE SCARF-TIED NECKLINES, SOFT SLEEVES, DISTINCTIVE PRINTS … THEY ALL MAKE THE BLOUSE THE COMEBACK STAR OF 2017. A›er years of li›le nondescript jersey knit tops and the like, the ultra-feminine blouse returns in a big way to fashion this year … and we’re not talking about dinky li›le shirts that hide under jackets and coats but the real deal - each one strong and singular enough to stand on its own. They are the star performers designed to make a look … and within that framework, there is so much variety! From architectural purity with a sporty edge to lace and ruffle ›nged romance, but they all share a certain ease, roominess and so›ness of scale, with a new ease through the sleeve, usually in bishop sleeve shapes with…

Sometimes they’re viewed as just the icing on the cake, but in fact trims are an essential part of any great design … and they can certainly take any garment out of the ordinary and every day, especially when used in surprising ways. Here are two of the top trim trends of the season. You’re going to get lots of frills this year! Ruffles are without a doubt one of the freshest flourishes of 2017 (and they will be everywhere next spring!). They’re now integral to the design of the garment, rather than just being tacked on … and they’re not just adorning blouses or dresses. In fact, they look newer and more exci›ng in more substan›al (but s›ll so›!) fabrics such as on knit sweaters or even on capes…

Positioning a Placket A placket is posi›oned toward the back of a sleeve and can be marked by folding the sleeve edge into four, excluding the seam allowances. The quarter mark on the back of the sleeve is the placket placement line which is drawn parallel to the straight grain line or the centre fold of the sleeve. Adding Length over the Elbow If you find a sleeve pulls at the cuff or over the point of the elbow when the cuff is fastened, check the pa›ern and introduce a li›le extra length down the back of the sleeve by curving the bo›om of the sleeve. Lengthening the en›re sleeve is not necessary unless the sleeve is too short for the arm length. Divide the base of the sleeve into…

The forward shoulder can easily be diagnosed by viewing the body sideways in the mirror. The rounded shoulder is a bone structure phenomenon, which seems to be aggravated by the ageing process. As ›me passes, you will have to make adjustments to accommodate ongoing bone structure changes. See diagram 1. The visual side of things is easy to determine – but the hardest part is deciding by how much your shoulder actually rolls forward. There is no measuring technique that can tell you the exact amount – enter the trial and error method. Using the garment as a guideline, check to see where the shoulder seam lies in rela›on to you shoulder bone. If you have forward shoulders, the seam will slip to the back of the garment. The amount…

Requirements • Pa›ern: McCall’s M7402 • So› fabric with good drape – see pa›ern envelope for quan›ty (brace yourself, it takes a lot!) • Iron-on interfacing in an appropriate weight, and type, for fabric • Scissors (paper and fabric) • Pins • Very large floor space for cu›ng • General sewing equipment Pattern • Cut pa›ern pieces to separate. • Check armhole/shoulder strap length and finished garment length. Adjust if needed. See diagram 1. Cutting • Remove small children and/or animals from the house. • Vacuum large floor space to remove any traces of those small children and/or animals. • For ease of cu›ng, and less ›me kneeling on the floor, the cu›ng layout was changed. See diagram 2. • Layout fabric on large floor space. • Pin pa›ern to…

Today we have velvet available in a wide variety of types and weights; novelty velvets, brocaded velvets, two-tone velvets and crushed velvets. There are crush and spot-resistant finishes and co›on, linen and synthe›c velvets are machine-washable and easier to handle. Velvet Velvet is tradi›onally a silk fabric with a short, cut pile. During construc›on an extra set of raised yarns is added to a woven or kni›ed base; these are then cut or le› as loops to achieve the desired surface texture. The fabric has a so› texture and a lustrous, rich appearance. Variations include –  Uncut pile: where the raised yarns are le› in loop form. Crushed pile: the pile is pressed flat in several direc›ons to create a play with light and shading that results in a…

Circular ruffles can be adapted to suit the wearer, the occasion and the garment. They may be wide or narrow and can be voluminous and extravagant or simple and understated. The type of fabric the flounce is made from will also affect the appearance. Sheer fabrics and heavy crepe will produce very different outcomes to the ruffle. Designing a Ruffle The ruffle or flounce can be a single circle, similar to a circular skirt, or mul›ple circles that produce more folds or flutes. Deciding how many circles, and consequently how many folds or ripples, is a decision that must be made before the pa›ern is constructed. The smaller the radius of the circle, the more circles will be required to obtain the length necessary. Also, deeper folds in the ruffle…

Castaway to Couture is an exci›ng re-fashioning compe››on brought to you by the Australian Sewing Guild Ltd. The lucky winner will receive an Eclipse DX overlocker donated by major sponsor Baby Lock Australia. The idea is simple. Buy a garment (or a few) at any Op Shop, or raid your wardrobe. Use your awesome sewing skills to re-fashion it into something new. Take photos before you start, during the construc›on stage and of the finished garment. Then submit your photos with a short descrip›on of the design inspira›on, construc›on process and garment purpose. In the true spirit of sustainable fashion, we want to see minimal waste. You must use as much of your original garments as possible and the end result must be comprised of at least 90% recycled products.…