Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2018 i Allure

A little more than a year ago, we banned the term “anti-aging” from Allure’s vernacular. It got people talking. A lot. All around the world. It spawned many a think piece on aging and language and the language of aging. Within minutes of the story going live, brands, individuals, and organizations reached out to say they wanted to join us in the movement. Some, like AARP, acted fast and issued statements of solidarity. A few skin-care companies cheered us on in private calls but admitted they weren’t quite ready to change their own messaging. Our statement sparked provocative discussions about sexism in aging—and how so much of it hearkens back to, and contributes to, an imbalance in power. In an essay in The New York Times, Ashton Applewhite put it…

In the 1970s, a group of Japanese scientists visited a traditional sake brewery, looking for innovations in cosmetic ingredients. All of the brewers had wrinkled faces but smooth hands (which they used to mix the sake). One scientist said, OK, the fermentation is doing something to their skin. He took a by-product of yeast fermentation, called Pitera, into the lab, and it became the active ingredient in SK-II’s Facial Treatment Essence. A year later, the same scientists were trying to figure out new ways to deliver better benefits—specifically, how could they make that essence work faster, in a single treatment? Sheet masks were a new concept in Japan back then, and we experimented with soaking a fiber mask in a full bottle of serum. The experiment worked. Sheet masks were…

There’s a new K-beauty brand in town—a makeup line called Kaja—and this stuff is so cute it hurts. Take the shimmering cheek tints (Cheeky Stamp). They aren’t just liquid blushes; each one comes with a heart-shaped stamp that even adults over the age of 30 will want to use. The sheer pink, peach, and red tints blend easily, so you’ll get a pretty flush, not a Rainbow Brite–style heart on your cheek. There are lipsticks (six neutral and six bright), creaseless concealers, volumizing brow gels, and lip balms that change colors with your mouth’s pH. Oh, and finely milled powder highlighters and blushes that look exactly like Japanese rice cakes, minus, you know, actually being edible. See? Ouch.…

Learn more about Garnier Skincare made with 96% Naturally-Derived Ingredients at garnierusa.com.…

She is quick to describe her voice as a smoker’s wheeze, but let me try to capture the particular vocal intonation of Elizabeth Trattner: It is subtler than that—like having a conversation with a trailing spool of incense. And where there’s smoke, there’s a story. Thirty years ago, Trattner suffered a severe asthma attack that left her in a medically induced coma for five days, her lung function provided by a ventilator. The endotracheal tube going into her mouth scraped her vocal chords, causing irreparable damage. Hence the rasp. “I suffered tremendously,” she tells me. “I have a different perspective on healing.” THE POINT IS NOT TO RUSH THE PROCESS. Trattner is a doctor of Chinese medicine, a licensed acupuncturist, and an integrative-medicine practitioner. “I did receive my shamanic rites,”…

I DON’T MIND MY REFLECTION, EVEN WHEN I CAN FULLY APPRECIATE THE EFFECTS OF SIX DECADES ON MY FACE. Long ago, around 1958… Wait, I’ll start again. A very long time ago, I thought everyone over age 18 looked the same: old. Do you remember thinking that? Adults, whether they were in their late teens or late 50s, fell into the same category. They were not of my kind. More recently, I thought the same thing about people in their late 60s. They, and those who had managed to hang on even longer, were not my people. And now, suddenly (honestly, I don’t know how this happened), I’ve discovered I am one of them, having crossed, while I was busy living my life, to the other side. Here’s the surprising…

BeautyBio Upper Hand Brightening Hand Crepe Correctors. The sheet-mask model (these are small and round) traps brightening licorice root and vitamin C on skin for a 20-minute treatment. Susanne Kaufmann Hand Peel and Hand Serum. This azure-colored, gently gritty hand treatment sloughs off dull skin cells with plant-derived cellulose beads. The serum combines a protective antioxidant with hydrating hyaluronic acid. Tenoverten The Rose Oil Nourishing Cuticle Oil. A pampering blend of jojoba oil (so it sinks in quickly) and emollient vitamin E, rose flower oil, and pomegranate oil. Super soothing on frayed cuticles and on chapped knuckles.…

You’d be forgiven for mistaking the egg-freezing advertisement for a women-only coworking space or a networking happy hour as you flicked through your feed. The ad might have shown a group of open-faced women in stylish button-downs and statement glasses toasting to one another’s good fortunes above a single phrase: “Preserve your options.” Or perhaps it was a woman with curls that betray a certain amount of effort, her hands grabbing the zipper of her moto jacket, next to the command “Own your future.” We are Americans in 2018, and we are in the business of sales, and the best way to sell anyone anything is to tell them they need it and it is their right to have it—even if, as in this case, the “it” in question is…

A photograph may capture only a split second in time, but when it’s an image that will run on the cover of a magazine, that perfect split second usually requires a whole day’s work for an entire crew. This cover was shot in a record three hours against the backdrop of a hazy Los Angeles. That’s what happens when the subject is collaborating with the same glam team she’s had for almost a decade and a half. Even when they’re doing something new, everyone’s in sync. “This is the first time we’ve ever done this bare of a look. I wanted to keep it really clean,” says makeup artist D’Andre Michael, who has worked with Bassett since 1999. “When I finished, I asked if she was happy. She was like,…

It’s been a year since Allure launched its groundbreaking anti-anti-aging campaign. And plenty of good has followed: “Instagrandmas” became a thing. New research has shown that confidence peaks in women from 60 to 70*. And yet…heaps of stigma still exist. So we were thrilled to feature AARP’s survey—a look at how far we have come, and how far we still need to go. Two thousand women, from 21 to 72, revealed how they really feel about both their own aging—and how it’s portrayed in the media. “I wear short skirts,” said 24% of women aged 38 and over. 61% of women do not feel represented by images of women in media. Three-quarters of them like ads that celebrate all ages and wish they saw more realistic representations of women in…

Brunette Brennan was always the first person into the pool, washed his hair with abandon, and could name every state capital. Then he dyed at an Aveda salon and was replaced by Blonde Brennan, who avoided chlorinated water altogether, traded suds for Batiste Dry Shampoo, and said the capital of Kansas was Kansas City, like a true moron. See, most of his brain space was now devoted to keeping his hair as flaxen white as Himalayan snow at dawn. Blonde Brennan tried every toning product under the sun, but none made much of a difference—until he discovered Redken Color Extend Blondage Color-Depositing Shampoo and Conditioner. After just five minutes, the violet shampoo’s peerless pigment load returned Blonde Brennan’s honeyed hair to its chilly platinum glory. The conditioner made his bleach-blitzed,…

Vitamin C is the dermatologist’s pet: It kisses up by brightening and smoothing skin. But it can be annoying: the tacky feel, the sour smell. The new L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives 10% Pure Vitamin C Concentrate serum fixes all that. It goes on like a balm and feels soothing, not tingly, on contact. (It also feels slightly warming, but it won’t redden skin.) And it smells like…nothing. Even better‚ after four days of use, my skin looked noticeably more even.…

NOW…GENTLER! ZIPLOXX HAIR EXTENSIONS Just released, these are the only extensions you can wash, style, and swim in for weeks at a time and still easily put in and take out yourself. They attach via a thin, flat plastic closure that snaps around a section of your own hair, without any damage. NOW…FOR CURLS! BEBONIA HAIR EXTENSIONS Clip-in extensions are easy to find—unless you have curly hair. Bebonia’s come in four curl patterns to give coils and waves natural-looking length and loads of volume. NOW…IN SILVER! HIDDEN CROWN This brand offers the first halo-style extensions (wefts of hair that attach via a headband for temporary length) we’ve seen for gray-haired women.…

I grew up in Communist Russia and started doing gymnastics when I was three, so I was owned by the government. The coach who trained me was government-subsidized. I did rhythmic gymnastics, but it was never about presentation—it was about discipline. That was the value that was instilled in me. You just train, train, train, train until you become perfect. And in gymnastics, there is such a thing as perfect. There’s a 10. And then there’s a 9.9, which is good, but it’s not as good as 10. Let’s say you’re doing a jump into a split. Are your legs parallel to the ground? That’s good. But if your leg is a little bit higher, that gets extra points. At five years old, I started going to practice by myself.…

THE HEALTH FOOD STORE PLAN | BALLPARK TOTAL: $57 Supplements and essential oils can make a difference—you just have to know which ones to look for. 1 ROSEMARY ESSENTIAL OIL. It smells amazing, but that’s not why you’ll want it—studies show rosemary oil can promote hair growth, says Francesca Fusco, a dermatologist in New York City. She recommends placing a drop or two of the essential oil (around $7.50 for half an ounce) into your shampoo before massaging it into your scalp. 2 OIL-RICH CONDITIONER. “Oils improve hair’s tensile strength,” says Paradi Mirmirani, a hair-loss specialist and dermatologist in Vallejo, California. In other words, oils make hair less likely to break under pressure, which is especially important for thinning hair that’s prone to snapping when brushed or styled. Mirmirani recommends…

Last spring, Angela Bassett posted a photo on Instagram. She was lounging in a chic black one-piece bathing suit, looking out from under a wide-brimmed black hat, one knee cocked and marble-smooth skin glistening. Every site picked it up, from Pop Sugar to People. Why? Celebrity selfies are hardly novel. And this was no champagne glass balanced on the gluteus maximus. It was simply a lovely shot from Cap Maison in St. Lucia, where Bassett had gone for the weekend with her family. The Daily Mail’s headline brought the fuss into focus: “Black Panther star Angela Bassett, 59, flaunts incredibly toned figure in Caribbean.” The issue, all along, was age. A little while after Bassett and I settle in for pedicures at the cheekily named Bed of Nails salon in…

Anti-Müllerian Hormone (AMH): Emitted from follicles in the ovaries, it can help predict whether enough mature eggs will be produced for successful freezing. If a patient’s AMH level is under 1.0 nanograms per milliliter, she could have a “low ovarian reserve,” which means she may need multiple cycles or might not be a good candidate for freezing (though this is not an indicator of her ability to get pregnant naturally). Follicle-Stimulating Hormone: The hormonal shot self-administered daily over 8 to 12 days into the belly or thigh (expect mood swings, water weight gain, and soreness). Vitrification: After eggs are collected, an embryologist attaches up to two of them at a time to plastic strips (called straws) and dips them in nitrogen. Once frozen, the straws are labeled, put in a…

hot stuff There is a small problem on set today, and it has something to do with the fact that a photography outfit and a supermodel and a team of beauty professionals have gathered in California’s Sierra Pelona Mountains, a geographic region not necessarily known for its hospitality. It is one zillion degrees, and the sun is still climbing. It’s the kind of day when foundation will melt right off of you, so it’s a good thing 43-year-old Kirsty Hume isn’t wearing much of anything. There is no wind, which could be disappointing for a hairstylist. “But if there’s no wind,” says hairstylist Tamas Tuzes, “I’ll create wind.” So he pulls a small leaf blower out of his kit and aims it at Hume, sending her looong (and 100 percent…

$900,000 Approximate winning bid for the black Givenchy dress Audrey Hepburn wore in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, which was auctioned off by Christie’s in 2006. 20 The number of years that must pass for something to be considered vintage, according to Architectural Digest. 00 A present-day dress size with that, the same dimensions, would have been labeled a size 8 in 1967. 1998 The year this photo ran in Allure as part of a fashion story on loungewear, styled by Emmanuelle Alt (now editor in chief of French Vogue). 999 The Dior lipstick shade created by mixing two shades of red (“9”and “99”). Christian Dior himself formulated it in 1953 for one of his runway shows. 501 The name of Levi Strauss’s straight-leg jeans, coined circa 1890 from the batch’s lot…

The challenge with hair accessories is to find one that doesn’t read too cutesy (a bow), or too dated (a scrunchie), or too bohemian (anything with butterflies), but still does what you need it to do: draw attention away from your unwashed roots. Kidding! Kind of. There’s also one other thing the hair accessory can do really well—elevate even the simplest of hairstyles, like, say, the half-bun, half-pony you invented between the gym and the office. (To your credit, hairstylist Justine Marjan sent models down the runway in a version of the hairstyle at Alice + Olivia’s spring 2019 show.) Elevation is guaranteed with Rosantica’s handmade brass-and-pearl barrette. The chain motif is edgy without being aggressive, the execution is fresh but not trying too hard, and it’s as easy to…

Two hours west of London, through winding single-car lanes and sheep-clotted fields, is an unlikely hotbed of tech innovation—Dyson’s headquarters, aka the birthplace of expensive vacuums and the 2016 Best of Beauty Breakthrough Award–winning Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer, a reimagining of the blow-dryer as we knew it. Dyson’s newest invention, the Airwrap, takes the same high-tech approach that made the Supersonic so freaking cool. It does this via the coanda effect—the phenomenon in which high-velocity air in round objects turns into a powerful vortex (think jet engines). The Dyson Airwrap, however, isn’t meant to just dry hair—it’s also meant to make the process of curling hair or creating a sleek, voluminous, or wavy blowout way, way easier. There are four different types of attachments you can use with the motorized…

“A SMILE CAN IMPROVE AND REPAIR RELATIONSHIPS OR EASE CONFLICT. IT’S A WAY OF SAYING TO THE OTHER PERSON THAT YOU CAN BE TRUSTED.” Resting bitch face—that stern, stony-mouthed phenomenon—peaked culturally around three years ago. Scientists acknowledged its existence, think pieces in The New York Times followed, and memes circulated with the claim: “Smiling Gives You Wrinkles. Resting Bitch Face Keeps You Pretty.” The latter bit is ironic, considering that the majority of research up to that point suggested that smiling makes a person look three years younger. But now the smile seems to be having a resurgence. A raft of new research points to its potential benefits: lower stress levels and heart rates, increased immunity, even exercise sessions that seem less strenuous. And dermatologists agree that everyone needs to…

For visible results in one week, visit rapidwrinkle.com…

“WE’RE EXPOSING OUR HANDS TO THE ELEMENTS MORE THAN EVER.” I could have been a concert pianist. Even when I was young and my hands still had dimples, I was told that my long fingers were made to fly over piano keys, the way a gull’s outstretched wings are made to ride a current of air. But my fingers are vexingly slow. They lack the speed and dexterity to finely chop an onion, much less master Chopin (or even “Chopsticks”). Still, the idea that my hands had an air of virtuosity and untold potential made me a little vain about them—confident to the point of being unconcerned. I’ve never lavished attention on my hands. I can count on just one of them the number of salon manicures I’ve had. I…