Innholdsfortegnelse for November/December 2019 i AFAR

That’s the question we asked readers in AFAR’s Travel Happiness Survey, presented by the Aruba Tourism Authority. After reading more than 15,000 happy memories, we selected a handful to turn into illustrated videos. Here are a few highlights from each. Check out the videos—and read more of the stories—at afar.com/happy. Return to Happiness Adventure and friendship—these are the things that draw Marilyn Foglia to Aruba time and time again. She loves mountain biking through Arikok National Park and plunging into the waters off Boca Catalina Beach, a local favorite. “I’ve made many friends in Aruba, and their laid-back, friendly attitudes keep me coming back,” she said. “The island is now my home away from home.” Norwegian Lights Emma Mutino’s story grabbed us from the start. She and her partner had…

Spas and golf courses? You bet. But that’s just the beginning of an unforgettable trip to Scottsdale. This bustling city in the Arizona desert serves up fascinating museums, natural beauty, delicious cuisine, and more—and it makes for an ideal travel destination, whether you’re on a quick girlfriend getaway or a weeklong adventure with the whole family. Take a deeper dive into Scottsdale’s cultural treasures, including modern architecture and interactive art, and then relax poolside at luxurious resorts. Dine on award-winning dishes that span the range of flavors and formalities—and sometimes throw in amazing views—and follow routes devoted to exploring innovative ales and wines. How can you experience all that Scottsdale has to offer? For the First-Timers Never been to Scottsdale? What are you waiting for?! You could be visiting famous…

The first time Kristine McDivitt Tompkins saw Patagonia, she felt like she had found her place. “I have a visceral connection to that landscape that is undeniable,” she says. “The wildness, vast open spaces, and wildlife lodged themselves in my heart.” On that trip in 1990, the former CEO of the Patagonia clothing and gear company had no way of knowing how deeply entwined her heart would become with the region in southern Argentina and Chile—nor that she and her husband, the North Face cofounder Doug Tompkins, would become pioneers of grand-scale conservation there. Kristine is now the president of Tompkins Conservation, the charity she and Doug founded in 1992. (Tragically, Doug died in a kayaking accident in 2015.) Tompkins Conservation has collaborated with NGOs, governments, and other philanthropists to…

“LUNCH?” OUR GUIDE casually suggested. Normally I’m not one to decline food, but the locale, a fist of granite 8,000 feet in the sky, with vertiginous drops in every direction, had subdued my appetite. The helicopter that brought us here had barely disappeared back into the clouds. Wind whipped around my hiking poles, causing me to stumble to the ground in a pathetic crouch. A squirrel poked its head out and regarded me mockingly. But my 10 fellow hikers seemed less bothered by the surrounding abyss, so we settled down to enjoy our beetroot and hummus wraps with a side of acrophobia. I was on this peak, on a Backroads heli-hiking tour in British Columbia and Alberta, because I’d wanted to take the standard hiking experience and turn it up…

IT WAS WHEN THE BLUE BOWL fell and broke that a desire to revisit Uzbekistan swept over me in a sudden tremor of remembered colors and patterns. The bowl, made from fragile, salty clay by the masters of Khorezm, a historic pottery center in western Uzbekistan, sported an intricate, pale azure design I could gaze at forever. It was my trophy from a trip I made in 1990 to Uzbekistan, the history-saturated crossroads of the Silk Road. That trip was an act of homage. My beloved paternal grandmother, Alla, was born in 1917 in the fertile Fergana Valley east of Tashkent, Uzbekistan’s capital. She was raised there by her grandmother, Anna, a prominent Bolshevik women’s rights activist. In the 1930s, Anna was transferred to a political job in Moscow, and…

WHEN PIERO PERCOCO signed up for Instagram in 2013, he loved that he could take photos of quotidian details in his village, Sannicandro di Bari in Puglia, Italy, and anyone in the world could see them. “It was a certain type of noncommercial tourism,” the self-taught photographer explains. “Not just the postcard-perfect places. There are so many beautiful things that go unnoticed.” His latest photo book, The Rainbow Is Underestimated, celebrates that everyday beauty: locals at the beach, ripening fruit, a toy dinosaur left on his dinner plate by children at a wedding. The images’ color, playfulness, and intimacy show a Puglia that can be captured only by someone who knows it well. To see more of Percoco’s work, follow @therainbow_is_underestimated on Instagram.…

I started skiing at five years old. When my twin sisters turned five, they did too. The playtime that began in New Hampshire’s White Mountains gradually migrated west to slopes in Wyoming and California. As we moved into adulthood, we realized that in American ski culture—with its beer, après-ski pizza, and persistent Grateful Dead soundtrack—no one grew up. Ever. For the twins’ 40th birthday, we decided to abandon the adolescent lifestyle and have an adult ski and snowboard trip to the Swiss Alps. Our crew landed in Klosters, a village 15 minutes from Davos, the famed resort town where members of the gray-haired global elite rub wrinkled elbows and discuss business dealings. Seriously mature stuff. When I got to the slopes, I couldn’t believe how vast it all was—and how…

AFAR Travel Photography Awards “I’VE ALWAYS FELT that photography could help me win the unwinnable war against the passing of time,” says Israeli photographer Oded Wagenstein. As part of a long-term project on aging and memory, Wagenstein made the journey to Yar-Sale, a remote Siberian village more than 60 hours from Moscow by train and seven hours more by car. There, he met women who are forced to give up the social roles they play in their nomadic reindeer-herding community as they grow older. Unlike their male counterparts, the women face the trials of aging without support from the group. His series “Like Last Year’s Snow” juxtaposes portraits of the women with shots of the tundra and traditions they once were part of. “[Wagenstein] establishes a contemplative approach to the…

THE GOBI DESERT of southern Mongolia is a land of extreme temperatures and never-ending horizons. Its people are independent and self-sufficient. So are their horses. I hadn’t been horseback riding in years, and never on a Mongolian horse, but I was in good hands with my guide, a youthful thirtysomething who called himself “Gonzo.” We set off from the Three Camel Lodge and rode together for two hours, galloping at times but more often walking and sharing stories about our lives. Gonzo told me that he and his five siblings had grown up nomads, raised by their mother and grandmother after their father left the family when Gonzo was young. I shared how instrumental my mother, grandmother, and aunt had been in raising me, and how I longed to let…

U.S. Airport San Francisco International Airport (SFO) Travelers can reduce stress by meditating in the Berman Reflection Room or, if flights are delayed, communing with LiLou, the world’s first certified airport therapy pig. U.S. Airline Delta Air Lines The Atlanta-based airline flies 180 million passengers to more than 300 destinations in 52 countries every year and partners with the Nature Conservancy so you can purchase carbon offsets for your flight. International Airport Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) With two hotels located beyond passport control, art and science museums, and an airport library, Schiphol is larger than some Dutch cities. International Airline Emirates Emirates is not only a leader in service; via the Emirates Airline Foundation, rewards-program members may donate funds and miles to projects assisting children in need. Food & Beverage…

Shannon Stowell has sipped tea with locals in Kurdistan, floated in swimming holes in Brazil, and tracked tigers in India. And as CEO of the Adventure Travel Trade Association—an international network of tour operators, travel agents, tourism boards, and accommodations—Stowell makes it his mission to ensure that his organization’s 1,400 members take travelers to these places responsibly. “The adventure travel industry is full of people who would like to see tourism be a positive force in the world,” says Stowell, who became president in 2004, and then CEO in 2016. “Our goal at the ATTA is to really push for tourism done right.” Under Stowell, the ATTA has increased the focus on sustainable travel practices. In June 2019, when Airbnb launched Airbnb Adventures, multiday trips hosted by locals to off-the-beaten-path…

TRAVEL TALES Bringing inspirational stories of wanderlust to life: That was the goal of our Travel Tales storytelling event series. Guests were treated to tales of life-changing trips from some of AFAR’s best writers and photographers, presented by the Marriott Bonvoy Boundless™ Card from Chase and hosted by Dhaya Lakshminarayanan, an award-winning comedian and storyteller. The event series kicked off on August 1 in Washington, D.C., at the W Hotel, where we heard stories from Eric Weiner, an esteemed journalist and best-selling author; Sally Kohn, one of the leading progressive voices in America today; and Negin Farsad, a distinguished writer and comedian who was one of the Huffington Post’s 50 Funniest Women. Then, on August 7, we headed to the JW Marriott in Los Angeles. Guests mingled over beverages and…

A TRUE HIMALAYAN ADVENTURE The mighty Himalayas are a powerhouse of the natural world - but they’re about much more than just high peaks and topnotch scenery. This epic land has created a group of resilient and friendly locals that will change your entire outlook on life. You might visit the Himalayas for the mountains, but you’ll leave telling stories about the people you have met along the way. Travel with the experts and let us take you on an unforgettable journey. activeadventures.com/himalayas ● 800.661.9073 GUIDING LIFE’S GREATEST ADVENTURES SINCE 1969 Join OARS for a small-group active adventure and explore the most spectacular natural landscapes on earth. OARS offers guided river trips, hiking and multi-sport experiences from 1/2-day escapes to 26-day expeditions for discerning travelers with an appetite for adventure.…

THIS FALL I’M bringing my family to New York with me on a business trip; in the winter we’ll spend a month in France while I’m on sabbatical; and next spring we’ll all head to Japan to visit friends. As a parent, I’m so privileged to be able to travel with my daughters and watch them learn about the world and its people in the best way I know. But not every kid is so lucky. That’s why in 2008, when Greg Sullivan and Joe Diaz launched AFAR, they also started the AFAR Foundation, which sponsors travel for underserved students through its flagship program, Learning AFAR. Committed to the idea that travel is the best form of education, Learning AFAR—with the help of our partner organization No Barriers—has so far…

CRUISES Mediterranean Cruises Azamara “Country-Intensive Voyages” dock at multiple ports in one country, allowing passengers to get to know Israel, France, Croatia, and other Mediterranean lands intimately. Alaska Cruises Holland America Line Every HAL itinerary includes stops to gape at glaciers and spot wildlife, and guests can choose excursions that offer insight into Alaskan history, such as a ride on the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway. Caribbean Cruises Royal Caribbean Traveling aboard this second-time category winner, passengers can slow down in St. Kitts; marvel at Mayan ruins on Roatán, Honduras; snorkel off Cozumel; or spot seahorses at Bonaire National Marine Park. French Polynesia Cruises Paul Gauguin Cruises Cruisers can relax on a private white-sand beach in Bora Bora or get scuba training on board to experience the lagoons and…

Design Shipwreck Lodge The 10 en suite cabins at this ecofriendly lodge in Namibia are designed to mimic wooden ships. Each guest room looks out on the Atlantic to the west and the Skeleton Coast National Park’s expansive dunes to the east. Wellness JW Marriott Scottsdale Camelback Resort & Spa Healing ingredients of the Sonoran Desert—Arizona honey, agave nectar, adobe clay, and more—infuse spa treatments at the Southwestern retreat. Guests refuel at Sprouts spa restaurant. Grand Dame The Peninsula Hong Kong The harborside hotel’s 91-year history speaks to its timeless commitment to elevating the traveler’s experience. Guests have access to the hotel’s fleet of Rolls-Royce Phantoms, a helicopter, and—as of 2019—a yacht. Epic Stay Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora At the three-time Travelers’ Choice winner, guests rejuvenate during a massage…

When Hurricane Maria blasted Puerto Rico in September 2017 with 155 mph winds and scouring rain, San Juan mayor Carmen Yulín Cruz Soto hunkered down with 1,000 refugees in the Roberto Clemente Coliseum sports arena. As days passed, she organized cots, laundry, and medical services. She ultimately stayed for three months. “If there were people who had to be in shelters, living in uncomfortable situations, as the mayor I had to make sure I was there with them, to care for them, give them hope, and to ensure that I was in the middle of San Juan,” she says. As more severe natural disasters make international headlines—many in the beautiful, tropical places travelers love to visit—leaders like Cruz Soto are on the front lines. Nearly 3,000 Puerto Ricans died in…

Rudi Schreiner and Kristin Karst spent their honeymoon on the 28-passenger Zambezi Queen, one of the most luxurious vessels to ply the scenic, hippo- and croc-filled waters of Botswana’s Chobe River. “We fell in love with it,” Karst recalls. They weren’t just any honeymooners. They also happened to have cofounded AmaWaterways, the company that takes 85,000 travelers a year on river cruises around the world. It was only a matter of time before they established a charter agreement with the Zambezi Queen’s owners that allows Schreiner and Karst to offer AmaWaterways customers the chance to enjoy the Chobe experience they had. That personal touch is what makes AmaWaterways stand out. Schreiner and Karst base all itineraries on the places they themselves feel deeply passionate about. The couple also tailor each…

Not long after he joined Alaska Airlines in 2004, Ben Minicucci, now its president and chief operating officer, stood with a cluster of fellow passengers at a baggage claim carousel. As the wait for their luggage stretched past 20 minutes, he listened to the grousing around him. As he rose in the ranks at the airline, he never forgot it. The carrier now guarantees baggage will arrive in 20 minutes, or travelers get a $25 discount on a future flight. This is just one way that Minicucci, a leader in a brutally competitive industry, has shaped Alaska into the compassionate carrier. “Our values,” says Minicucci, “are about people.” Minicucci oversaw the 2016 merger of Alaska and Virgin America, which created the fifth-largest airline in the country. He didn’t want the…

I STEPPED INTO the dim foyer of Hiakai, the restaurant owned by Monique Fiso, one of New Zealand’s most buzzed about chefs, and took a moment to fix myself up. A day spent wandering “Windy Wellington” hadn’t done my hair any favors, and I was jet-lagged, disheveled, and late. But as I ascended a staircase toward the 30-seat dining room, I was immediately soothed by the sounds of the New Zealand psych-rock band Unknown Mortal Orchestra emanating from the stereo in the pared-down space. I found my seat at the chef’s counter, a four-person bar made from smooth, dark stone. I took a breath. Hiakai means “having a craving for food” in āori, the language (and ethnicity) of New Zealand’s indigenous people, and Fiso—whose mother is āori and whose father…

IT HAPPENED IN the middle of the vast savanna of Kenya’s Maasai Mara. I was sitting on a portable stool in the shade of an acacia tree, eating breakfast with Nelson, my Maasai guide, and Peter, the safari director from Micato Safaris, who was traveling with me. Nelson had just told me that he moonlights as a livestock herder. “So,” I asked him, “how many cattle do you have?” Peter began to chuckle over his Scotch egg. Soon Nelson joined in. I wondered what was so funny. “Never ask a Maasai how many cattle they own!” Peter exclaimed. “That’s like asking someone how much money they have in the bank,” Nelson said. I didn’t know, but livestock are a checking account that grazes. There’s no way I would compare balances…

THE DIN OF Venice’s Santa Lucia station surrounded me as I clung to a card with my cabin assignment: D8. Amid the faint aroma of espresso mixed with exhaust, I looked at the other passengers on the platform. A man in a trench coat chatted loudly to his wife, whose waist was cinched by a giant Gucci belt. A woman wearing a fur stole and heels moved to take her photo with the six staff members who had lined up to welcome us. They smiled in their uniforms, styled straight out of the Golden Age of Travel: The chef in a white toque and double-breasted top; a steward in a royal blue jacket, trousers, and cap, all trimmed with gold piping. A man in a crisp white tuxedo jacket looked…