Innholdsfortegnelse for May/June 2019 i AFAR

AS BOTH A BER-MUDIAN AND eighth-generation Gosling, Malcolm Gosling Jr. has rum in his blood, figuratively and, during summer happy hours, literally. Gosling’s Rum is more than Bermuda’s oldest family-owned business and the local rum of choice—it’s also the key ingredient in the island’s national drink, the Dark ‘n Stormy®. Perhaps the one thing Bermudians love more than their Gosling’s Rum is a good party. “Every Friday at five o’clock, the happy hours kick off,” says Malcolm. “They’re an all-island affair. Locals, tourists, and business travelers let loose and have a good time.” Whether your scene is to chill out at an outdoor garden bar, by a beach bonfire, or on a packed catamaran, Gosling’s Rum will likely be in your glass. And Malcolm himself might even be there. “I…

AT THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT, their philosophy around hospitality and how they pamper their guests and make them feel like they are at home is all in the spirit of CaymanKind. The team at the Grand Cayman Marriott have been individually handpicked for their professionalism, warmth and kindliness. They approach their jobs differently than other hotels by going into work each day thinking from a guest’s perspective and they base their decisions on what they think will make their guests’ vacation experience unique and memorable. This philosophy and approach, which the team at the resort are known for on the island, is a cornerstone of what they lovingly call, the Beach House experience. At the Grand Cayman Marriott, they are all about enjoying the island’s endless summer. The aim is…

I GREW UP IN A QUIET neighborhood in Lagos, Nigeria, quiet enough to play on the streets. There were about 30 houses in the walled estate. There was only one entrance, a gate manned by security guards. They weren’t armed, but they were gruff with outsiders. “Yes? Who are you here for?” they would ask drivers without a residence permit. The guards would pop open visitors’ trunks and peer into their backseats. There was no traffc in our estate, no noise, almost no crime. Although there were loops of barbed wire around my house, we left our gate ajar sometimes. To step outside the estate was to step into ’90s Nigeria—a military dictatorship, political assassinations, petrol scarcities, university strikes—but inside our bubble, we were mostly safe. We were ferried to…

Stedsans in the Woods is located deep in the forest of southwestern Sweden. Guests stay in simple but beautifully designed wooden cabins with no electricity. Bathrooms are outhouses with composting toilets and sinks that deliver filtered lake water from a refillable tank. It’s all done not only to reduce environmental impact, but also to offer guests the true and rare luxury of connecting with nature—and each other. One highlight of the experience is the communal dinner each night: At an outdoor table surrounded by trees, guests dine by candlelight on traditional local dishes cooked over a fire. If you’re arriving by air, it’s easiest to land in Denmark. Fly into Copenhagen, then rent a car at the airport for the two-and-a-half-hour drive north. From $860, all inclusive. stedsans.org…

Travel shouldn’t be about impressing our friends, posting the photo, and saying “been there, done that.” WHEN WE LAUNCHED AFAR, most of us weren’t worried about “overtourism.” We were in the midst of a global recession, which kept travelers at home and hit the travel industry hard. Instagram, which now gets blamed for making certain spots too popular, hadn’t even been invented yet. Today it’s a different world. Back in 2008, when we opened the first AFAR office, the United Nations World Tourism Organization counted 922 million international tourist arrivals. By last year, that number had climbed to an estimated 1.4 billion. And as the number of travelers has increased, some destinations are straining under their weight. We at AFAR believe in the power of travel to make the world…

Planes get delayed, reservations blundered, restaurants overbooked. Sometimes it rains on your only beach day. “Travel inherently involves uncertainty,” says David Gelles, a New York Times reporter and the author of Mindful Work: How Meditation Is Changing Business from the Inside Out. “Mindfulness can make us more comfortable with that uncertainty.” The practice of mindfulness—focusing on the present moment without trying to change it—is rooted in centuries-old Buddhist traditions. But in recent decades, Western medicine and psychology have acknowledged its benefits on emotional well-being. How can we channel mindfulness when travel mishaps occur? Here’s where to start. 1. Take daily moments to meditate Whether in your hotel room or on a park bench, find a comfortable place each day where you can close your eyes and practice meditation. “It’s about…

1. Local ownership Sarara Camp in Kenya is operated by the seminomadic Samburu people, and profits go directly to community and wildlife protection initiatives. In Australia’s remote Nitmiluk National Park, the indigenous Jawoyn people own Cicada Lodge, which offers guests an encounter with land the Jawoyn have inhabited for thousands of years. 2. Sustainable architecture Pikaia Lodge, on Santa Cruz Island in Ecuador’s fragile and biodiverse Galápagos Islands, was built with recyclable and natural materials, including Ecuadoran teak, on a former cattle ranch. Now Pikaia has restored endemic trees and vegetation on its land, so giant tortoises and native birds have returned. 3. Energy efficiency Seventeen camps in sub-Saharan Africa owned by Wilderness Safaris are solar powered, as is the 24-villa Six Senses Fiji, which uses both Tesla batteries and…

Justin Francis Cofounder of Responsible Travel, one of the first agencies to specialize in sustainable travel Judy Kepher Gona Founder of the Sustainable Travel and Tourism Agenda, a research and advocacy group in Kenya M. Sanjayan CEO of Conservation International, scientist, writer, AFAR Vanguard honoree Greg Sullivan CEO of AFAR, former adjunct professor of ethics Anu Taranath University of Washington Distinguished Teacher, Fulbright Scholar, author of Beyond Guilt Trips: Mindful Travel in an Unequal World (2019)…

Every month, we at AFAR receive hundreds of emails announcing hotel openings. And every day we’re asked by friends and colleagues, “Where should I stay on my next trip to…?” In this issue, we’re answering that question with our first-ever Stay List, a compendium of the best new hotels in the world. These lodgings deliver more than just a place to rest our heads. They connect with their destinations and the people who live there. Each of these 27 extraordinary hotels has been personally vetted by our network of staffers and contributors. Read on for the best places worth booking. CAPELLA UBUD Bali, Indonesia If every new hotel on the island of Bali were as conscientiously developed as Capella Ubud, we wouldn’t have to worry so much about the perils…

Imagine not having to worry about all the details that go into planning a one-of-a-kind travel experience. From creating bespoke itineraries suited to your travel tastes, to providing 24/7 white-glove service, AFAR’s trusted team of travel advisors is here to take care of everything. With industry expertise and access that makes your trip as personal as it is exclusive, our advisors have your back—so you can get back to relishing the wonders of traveling deeper. AFAR TRAVEL ADVISORY COUNCIL www.afar.com/tac…

“THE VENICE OF TO-DAY,” wrote Henry James back in 1882, “is a vast museum… and you march through the institution with a herd of fellow-gazers.” Ah, Henry, Henry. If you only knew. A century and a half after James wrote those words, some 30 million visitors overwhelm La Serenissima each year. Its resident population meanwhile has shrunk to fewer than 53,000, from a peak of 175,000 in 1951. Mammoth cruise ships damage its centuriesold foundations and its fragile lagoon, and there is even talk of putting up permanent turnstiles for Piazza San Marco, Italy’s most iconic square. And yet there I was last fall, trundling a suitcase into a “real,” living, uncrowded Venice. In the western end of the Dorsoduro district, modest ocher apartment buildings flanked a workaday canal where…

Magical Experiences Begin in Key West The end of the Overseas Highway is the beginning of your getaway in gorgeous Key West. One of the most unique destinations on earth, this iconic island is a mini-melting pot, reflecting a variety of cultural influences, and a place where all are welcome. Spend laid-back days exploring colorful gingerbread houses, Hemingway history, galleries galore, adventures on the shimmering water, and culinary delights featuring delicacies pulled fresh from the sea. Evenings begin with a sunset celebration at Mallory Square; the energy reaches a crescendo at Key West’s lively bars and clubs before night becomes morning and the laid-back vibe emerges once again. Recharge your batteries, rejuvenate your spirits, and be who you want to be with a visit to unforgettable Key West. Learn more…

Respect local customs Travelers aren’t usually required to fast, but it is courteous to not eat, drink, or smoke in public during the day. Read up on local practices before you go. In most countries, alcohol won’t be served until after the sun sets. Mind schedule changes Restaurants, attractions, and government entities may operate under different hours or be closed entirely during Ramadan. Partake in the festivities Public iftars are open to everyone. It’s relatively common to be invited to a private iftar, but if you want to plan ahead, hire a local guide, who can connect you with ways to observe Ramadan the way the locals do.…

IN SHANGHAI, a restaurant open for 10 years is considered old, and a house that’s been standing for 30 is practically a landmark. “Everything here is fast,” says Wayne Zheng, director of guest experience at the Middle House, a sleek boutique hotel that opened in April 2018. Zheng was born in Shanghai and has seen the relentless pace of change. But as the city hustles forward, the latest change is about looking back. For years, the trend in hospitality was toward large, glitzy restaurants, bars, and brands from abroad. Along the lively, neon-lit strip of Huangpu River waterfront known as the Bund, you could partake in an English-style afternoon tea and dance all night at North American–inspired nightclubs. The opening of a hotel such as the Middle House, in the…

STAY FOR MORE THAN A DAY Longer stays contribute more vitally to all sectors of the city’s economy. Look for an apartment in neighborhoods such as Castello, San Polo, or Cannaregio through a socially responsible boutique agency such as Truly Venice, which also recommends craftspeople and restaurants. Or consider a Venetian-owned hotel, whether it’s the grand Bauer Palazzo—where the toiletries are locally made—or the Hotel Flora, whose owners publish the excellent online guide Inside Venice. They have also recently opened Casa Flora, a three-bedroom apartment. On the color-splashed Burano Island, the family behind the Venissa winery and hotel recently opened Casa Burano, a “diffuse hotel” that occupies five restored former fishermen’s and lace-makers’ houses. SUPPORT CRAFTS In addition to Il Forcolaio Matto, Paper Owl, and Antica Drogheria Mascari, mentioned in…

PHILO APPLE FARM Located on the banks of the Navarro River, Philo is a working apple farm and a bed-and-breakfast. Book one of the three intimate cottages, each with a fireplace, a spacious front porch, and a prime spot in the orchard. From $300. THE BEWILDERED PIG In a restaurant tucked behind a wooden fence and large palm trees, chef and co-owner Janelle Weaver works ingredients sourced from the surrounding region into such dishes as the Pekin duck breast and a salad of foraged greens. THE RESTAURANT AT THE BOONVILLE HOTEL Michelin-starred chef Perry Hoffman, who cut his teeth at the restaurant 20 years ago, has returned to channel his experience into an ever-changing menu. One week he might serve a rich fisherman’s stew with mussels from Santa Barbara, the…