Innholdsfortegnelse for March/April 2019 i AFAR

WHEN I FIRST met the writer Rahawa Haile in Oakland in 2017, we had a frank conversation about the dearth of non-white writers published in travel publications, including AFAR. Earlier that year Rahawa had written a story for Outside about her experiences as an Eritrean American woman walking the Appalachian Trail on her own from Georgia to Maine. It moved me, and it helped me to see my own shortcomings, blind spots, and naïveté as an editor, especially at a time when historically underrepresented and marginalized voices needed to be heard and listened to—now more than ever. In a new collection of essays titled The Good Immigrant, 26 U.S.-based writers, actors, artists, comedians, and directors (including Rahawa) share their multifaceted experiences of life in America. Why this book now? Editors…

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ONCE A SLEEPY SOUTHERN TOWN, Charleston has a thriving, multicultural downtown. The 3.5-mile-long peninsula containing 12 small, eclectic neighborhoods has become a beacon for creative professionals from New York and other major U.S. cities looking for more laidback lives. Thanks to the influx, Charleston is rife with entrepreneurial energy: Over the past five years, new restaurants, shops, and boutique hotels have opened at a rapid pace. Charleston’s biggest challenge? Making room for the changes while still protecting the city’s unique history and architecture. Three locals share their takes on the Holy City. Jacob Lindsey Urban Designer When it comes to architecture, the city is known for its multicolor Charleston single houses—long, narrow homes, many with white-pillared porches on each level. And Jacob Lindsey is charged with preserving them. As the…

THE THRONGS STREAMING through the carved granite gateway of the temple. It’s Ganesha Chaturthi, the festival of the birth of Lord Ganesh, beloved elephant-headed Hindu god of wisdom. To a thundering drum and the blare of a nadaswaram (like an enlarged clarinet), a bare-chested priest leads a procession around the central shrine, where a statue of Ganesh sits decked out in garlands and pompoms. Suddenly, frantic volunteers rush about, shooing back the crowds draped in maroons and magentas and yellows. Smaller statues of Ganesh enter, five in all, on pallets supported on devotees’ shoulders. The devotees line up and start swaying to the surging rhythm of the music. Is this Kerala? Varanasi? Nope. We’re in the New York City borough of Queens—the Flushing neighborhood, to be exact—a half-hour subway ride…

These parks, each of which drew fewer than 250,000 visitors in 2017, offer monumental peaks, sweeping landscapes—and no crowds. North Cascades National Park Washington Less than three hours north of Seattle, North Cascades is one of the most geologically complex places in the United States. The park encompasses the North Cascade mountains, home to some of the state’s highest peaks, and Lake Chelan, the third-deepest lake in the United States, as well as a temperate rain forest, glaciers, and waterfalls. Get the most bang for your buck on the 7.4-mile (round-trip) Cascade Pass Trail, which passes through old-growth forest, with views of the Cache Col glacier along the way. Guadalupe Mountains National Park Texas It’s hard to picture, but this mountainous 135-square-mile park was once a marine reef, part of…

I had been warned about the jumping cholla. My guide, Phil, stopped early in our bike tour of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve in Scottsdale to point out this beautiful but diabolical cactus. Its spiky spines will stick to anything, he said. You need a comb to remove them, he added, peeling a sharp specimen from his own arm like it was no big deal. I’m outdoorsy, I thought. I’ll be fine. Sure enough, a couple miles down the winding trails, I stood on one. As Phil patiently combed out the needles that had jabbed me through my sneakers, I realized how far we were from my home in Los Angeles. Here, our only companions were the saguaro sentries and prickly pears waving their barbed hands as we passed. Phil, who…

In Kainoa Horcajo’s office in Maui stands a box filled with volcanic rocks. They were mailed to him by resort guests hoping to atone for having taken them home, even after they’d been warned about the bad luck that would befall them. One sender feared that his business had tanked because of stones he absconded with 10 years ago. “That speaks to the power of Hawaii and our stories,” Horcajo says. “They stick with you and remain in the collective consciousness.” As Hawaiian cultural ambassador at the Grand Wailea resort, Horcajo is the keeper of these stories, interacting with every department at the Waldorf Astoria hotel as well as with outside organizations to deepen the guest experience. A decade ago, there were just a handful of such advisors; today, Horcajo…

1 USBR 66 Baxter Springs, Kansas, to St. Louis, Missouri The legendary Route 66 now draws cyclists who want to take in the nostalgic sights at a slower pace. This 358-mile stretch is the first section designated for bikes. It leads riders past quirky sights such as Gary’s Gay Parita, a rebuilt Sinclair gas station turned souvenir shop and shrine to the Mother Road. There are no signs yet, so download a Ride with GPS map (ridewithgps.com) before setting out. 2 USBR 23 Mitchellville, Tennessee, to Hodgenville, Kentucky Amish buggies make up much of the traffic on the back roads of southwestern Kentucky. Connecting with an existing bike route in Tennessee, the new 109-mile section cuts through rolling farmland, friendly small towns, and the Green River Basin. It also tracks…

For weekenders more interested in relaxation than ritz, Long Island’s North Fork is a welcome getaway from big-city hustle. Wineries and pastureland surround tranquil 19th-century towns, and family-owned farm stands look out on a coastline where oyster farms are making a comeback. Here’s how to make the most of your retreat. Eat Don’t miss dinner (or the views) at Barba Bianca, Manhattan chef Frank DeCarlo’s restaurant that stands directly over the water in Greenport Harbor. The seasonal menu focuses on coastal Italian delicacies made with ingredients sourced from within a five-mile radius of the restaurant. Drink The waterfront, wind-powered tasting room of family-owned Kontokosta Winery sits on 62 acres of coastal farmland in Greenport. Down the road in Mattituck, taste vintages from the Macari family, who started making wine in…

The New York City borough of Queens is one of the most diverse places in the world. In the couple of square miles encompassing the Jackson Heights, Corona, and Elmhurst neighborhoods, you can sample the plumpest Tibetan momos (dumplings) and Salvadoran pupusas, discover a basement mosque, chant along to Hindu devotional hymns, and help feed Thai monks—all in one day. Time your visit right, and chances are you’ll get to share a meal with the regulars. And while you’re there, be sure to check out the restaurant scene, which serves some of New York City’s most authentic ethnic food. Read on for writer Anya von Bremzen’s favorites. Indian Subcontinent In Jackson Heights’ “Little India”—increasingly known as Himalayan Heights for the influx of Nepalese and Tibetans—compare the silky-skinned, spicy Nepalese chicken…

Only a plane, an automobile, and a boat stand between you and the national park. Rent a car at Miami International Airport before setting off via U.S. Highway 1. The 160-mile stretch is divided into the Upper, Middle, and Lower Keys. The Upper Keys, closest to Miami and scattered in an area just over 30 miles long, extend through Key Largo to the end of Islamorada; the Middle Keys cover about 25 miles before giving way to the Lower Keys. Along the way, hit these stops for a true Florida Keys road-trip experience. The Keys Islamorada, a village that encompasses four keys, has a vibrant entertainment, shopping, and dining scene and hosts an abundance of marine wildlife and places to interact with it. Swim with dolphins or paint with sea…

Bermuda’s springtime puts wind in your sails. COMMODORE JON CORLESS LOVES SPRING for many reasons—most of all, because the boats are on the horizon. “After the winter, the seas calm and it’s ideal for sailing,” says Jon. “Boats start transitioning from winters in the Caribbean to summers in Europe and many stop in Bermuda along the way. Several choose to race.” As the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club’s ranking Flag Officer, Commodore Corless has a hand in all the Club’s races and regattas, many of which are world-famous. On May 8, the Bermuda Antigua race will commence as part of the 2019 Atlantic Ocean Racing Series, with the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club hosting a party and Prize Giving. For those wanting to catch the action from shore, the Hamilton Princess Hotel…

CULTURE + CHARM In Charleston, daily life is accompanied by a gentle harmony of church bells, rustling palmetto fronds, and lyrical sea island accents. Church steeples—not skyscrapers—dot the skyline, and a tangible connection to the past permeates the community. For more than 300 years, the Charleston area’s evocative beauty has inspired artists, travelers, writers, and musicians. Discover the people, places, and traditions found only in Charleston. Come, let this special destination enliven your senses. LUXURIOUS STAY With the perfect combination of beautiful beaches, world-class cuisine, and an endless supply of engaging things to see and do, it’s no wonder the Charleston area is consistently named a top U.S. destination. Choose among top-rated luxury hotels, full-service resorts, a quaint villa on the Atlantic, or small, private bed and breakfasts and charming…

Walk the streets of Providence, Rhode Island, and you might stumble across Sam O. White’s “Party Shark,” a mural of a pixelated hot-pink, purple, and white shark adorning the historic Providence National Bank. You might also spot “Wild Horses,” an abstract sculpture by Rhode Island–based artist Peruko Ccopacatty, whose works are inspired by the indigenous Aymara culture of his native Peru. Then there’s Polish artist Natalia Rak’s “Adventure Time,” a mural of a young girl opening a door to a psychedelic world. All these pieces are part of the Avenue Concept, the city’s first privately administered public art program. Founded in 2012, it has installed more than 150 works of art, encouraging locals and travelers alike to get out and explore the city. (A map plotting every artwork is viewable…

Known for its soaring twin mountain peaks and miles of beaches that unfurl along its tropical shores, Saint Lucia also offers an array of immersive cultural experiences. It’s no wonder, then, that Saint Lucia was featured by AFAR’s editors as a Where to Go 2019 winter getaway destination. Saint Lucia has something for every type of traveler. From beautiful beaches to a dynamic local music scene, this is an island whose lush landscape is matched by its rich cultural vibrancy. Read on to learn which hotel is the perfect place to check in for your stay. BAY GARDENS BEACH RESORT AND SPA Bay Gardens Beach Resort and Spa’s family-friendly, award-winning properties are located in Saint Lucia’s iconic Rodney Bay. Comfortable accommodations nestled in tropical gardens with panoramic vistas of Rodney…

PICTURE THE HILL towns of Italy’s Cinque Terre, the buildings over-looking the sea a cluster of earthy pastels: dusty rose, warm peach, fir-tree green, butter yellow. When you step inside a Wing space, one of the coworking clubs for women that are expanding through-out the world, you see a similar palette. The Wing’s designer, Chiara de Rege, grew up in New York City, but spent every summer in an antique-filled, 7th-century family home in Italy’s Piedmont region. Those summers instilled in her an appreciation for velvets and florals and washed-out patinas. It wasn’t until this past summer, however, that de Rege realized how much her heritage had influenced her approach to the Wing. “We were on a boat on the Riviera, and I looked up and saw the coastline and…