Innholdsfortegnelse for March/April 2017 i AFAR

A STEEPLE with A VIEW The standout silhouette in Reykjavík’s skyline, Hallgrímskirkja is the modernist triumph of Icelandic architect Guðjón Samúelsson. Pop inside the church’s great white hall for a concert or take an elevator to the top of the tower for the ultimate panoramic view of the city. Hallgrímstorg 101 SMOKY GOURMENT Inside the cozy, wood-and-leather decorated walls of Kol Restaurant, chef Kári Þorsteinsson conjures Viking-era flavors in Nordic comfort foods with an Icelandic twist, including braised ox, duck-fat soaked and deep-fried potatoes, and grand platters of fresh fruits de mer. Skólavörðustígur 40 JUST LIKE GRANDMA KNITTED Skip the tourist shop imports and hunt for handmade knitwear at the Handknitting Association of Iceland. “Traditional Icelandic sweaters are knit using yarn made from undyed sheep’s wool—brown, black, gray, and white—in…

After a tour of the classic Franschhoek and Stellenbosch winelands, drive an hour north to visit Swartland, a low-key region that’s producing some of the country’s most impressive natural wines. (Book ahead— most wineries host by appointment only.) Here are three bottles to uncork. 1 COLUMELLA Eben Sadie of Sadie Family Wines is one of the country’s most influential winemakers. His Columella, a rich, full-bodied blend of syrah and mourvèdre, is one of the main reasons the Swartland region has gained so much attention. 2 OLD VINES WHITE At Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, winemaker Andrea Mullineux’s signature wine is made from old-vine chenin blanc grapes, then aged for 11 months in French oak barrels. In your glass, it’s fresh with hints of pear and almond. 3 EL BANDITO SKIN…

Cape Town’s Table Mountain National Park, which hugs the perimeter of the city, is so popular that the line for the cable car to the top can be longer than a queue for a Disneyland ride. But why stand in line when you can put your feet to use? There are several routes that lead to the top of the 3,562-foot, flat-topped mountain, including the two-mile Platteklip Gorge trail. Yes, it’s steep, but startling views of the city and the Atlantic await. Trek, get hungry, then picnic on local provisions—crackers, Dutch-style Gouda, and biltong, the thick-sliced South African jerky—before riding the cable car back down.…

I’VE EATEN BIVALVES in France, on the Chesapeake Bay, along Florida’s Gulf Coast, and in trendy Seattle oyster bars where I’ve blown my meager paychecks on the ephemeral pleasures of Washington Kumamotos and Quilcenes. During those moments, an oyster’s raw, creamy brine is the only sensation I know, and it’s bigger than mere food: It’s the entirety of the ocean in my mouth. Once it dissipates, I’ll open my wallet to the wind just to feel it again. So when I saw local Walvis Bay oysters on the menu at a restaurant in the Namibian coastal town of Swakopmund, I was surprised, but I ordered them without hesitation. Nothing in my lifetime of oyster chasing prepared me for what I discovered that night: shellfish so sweet and rich, it tasted…

I tapped into the spiritual magic of the city of Ubud on a recent trip to Bali, thanks to the new Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, located a 10-minute drive out of town. A stroll through a working rice paddy and past an ancient temple led me to my villa, one of 25 on the Ayung River. From my private pool, I watched as a wall of riverside vegetation undulated with the breeze, my idyll occasionally punctuated by the shouts of passing rafting groups. On a more exploratory day, a tour in the resort’s vintage Volkswagen 181 convertible took me to a purification ceremony at the Tirta Empul water temple. I spent evenings in Mandapa’s spa, where a blind healer steered me away from bad energy, and Indah, my Balinese masseuse,…

THE FIRST impression most people have of Dubai is of five-star hotels and malls. But that’s not my experience. Before my family and I moved here in January 2015, we visited friends who’d lived in Dubai for years. I saw that their quality of life was noticeably higher than in Geneva, which is where I had been living since 1998. I began a career as a watch creator 25 years ago and founded my own brand, MB&F, in 2005. After my daughter was born in 2013, I realized that I’d be too busy to watch her grow up if we stayed in Geneva. We chose Dubai because it was halfway between Europe and Asia. But we didn’t really know what we were getting into. It’s so much more interesting than…

EXPAT FILE NO. 2 ONE DAY SEVERAL years ago, I was walking home with a baguette still warm from the oven under my arm. It was a sunny morning in Madrid, and in the few blocks that separated the bakery from my apartment, I passed the dim bar where an elderly man stood staring into his 11 a.m. beer; the market where a pair of Pekingese waited patiently for their owner to emerge; the kiosk where Manuel handed me my paper of choice every day without asking. It was in every way a normal morning, or at least it was until I decided to do the unthinkable. Feeling peckish, I broke off a heel from the loaf and began to snack. Almost immediately, I got my comeuppance. Watching me as…

EXPAT FILE NO. 5 THE RICE COOKER I own is a dinged-up workhorse, its insides browned from years of use. Thanks to my dad’s hotelier career, that rice cooker followed my family into a string of hotels in Asia and the United States that we called home; it was the one constant in every new en suite kitchen. What changed were the things we put on our rice: vinegary chicken adobo in the Philippines, sweet and smoky lap cheong sausage in Hong Kong, or spicy beef rendang in Singapore. The nightly duty of washing rice, one of my Japanese American mom’s tasks as a girl growing up in Hawaii, became our own family ritual. She swore we would live a normal existence, with chores and home-cooked meals, even if room…

EXPAT FILE NO. 7 I’VE BEEN fascinated by language ever since I was a child, growing up in Nigeria amidst more than 250 tribes and their unique dialects. I taught myself Italian (which has waned over time), struggled with German, and studied Spanish at university. When I arrived on Sweden’s shores seven years ago, newly married to a Swede, I knew I needed to learn the language as deeply as I could. Though most Swedes speak English, cracking their hard outer shell can take years. Here, friendships date back to childhood and compliments are rare. Mastering the subtle nuances of the language was the hammer I needed to start chipping away. I enrolled in free Swedish classes offered to immigrants. And while it was challenging to learn how to properly…

EXPAT FILE NO. 9 WE WERE LIKE most couples back in the States: workaholics. But we traveled a lot when we were younger and knew we wanted to retire overseas. Each time we went on a trip, it got tougher to come home. We decided to retire sooner rather than later. We were 55 and 49 when we moved to Nicaragua in 2006. For us, retiring abroad was largely a financial decision. Health insurance in the United States would have eaten up our pension. These days, we pay as we go. It’s that cheap. A doctor’s visit is $17, and you don’t need a prescription for anything but narcotics. Hospitals are of North American quality. And the doctors are not only great, they’re accessible. They’ll give you their home number…

I’LL NEVER FORGET receiving my roommate assignment the summer before my freshman year of college. Sitting on my family’s front porch in Berkeley, California, I tore open the envelope and there it was: Anna from Paris. I couldn’t believe my luck. Visions of spring breaks spent gallivanting around Europe filled my head. I had been to France once as a child and had fantasized about returning ever since. Anna didn’t disappoint. Born in Italy, she had also lived in France and Miami before coming to New York for college. Because she had attended international schools, she knew people from all over the globe. At 18, her worldview seemed vast and sophisticated compared to mine. We quickly became friends and did in fact spend school breaks exploring Italy, France, and even…

Imagine booking your next Airbnb stay—with an entire town as your host. That’s the idea behind Yoshino Cedar House, the home-sharing site’s first-ever guesthouse, set along a river 65 miles south of Kyoto in rural Yoshino, a town surrounded by the cedar forests of Japan’s Nara prefecture. Yoshino Cedar House is the inaugural project from Airbnb’s new Samara design and innovation studio, created by cofounder Joe Gebbia to explore the company’s next frontier of service offerings. Part guest lodgings, part community center, the building was designed to boost the town’s economy and support the aging, dwindling population, a common demographic in rural Japanese communities. Locals manage the house, and profits stay within the community. The project started as an exhibit in Tokyo before the structure was permanently installed in Yoshino,…

R30 ($2) Tour of the historical District Six Museum R48 ($3.50) Boerie sausage roll from Gourmet Boerie From R125 ($9) Concert at the Kirstenbosch gardens From R418 ($30) One-bedroom house on Airbnb From R767 ($55) Lavish dinner for two at Chef’s Warehouse…

THE WATERSHED DESIGN MARKET With more than 150 stalls, the cavernous market is made for omnivorous art lovers. Look for Simple Intrigue, where artist Keri Muller displays her whimsical book sculptures. waterfront.co.za WOODSTOCK CREATIVE TOUR World-renowned street artist Faith47 is based in Cape Town. See some of her masterpieces on a tour of the Woodstock district with Juma Mkwela of Township Art Tours. townshiparttours.co.za WORLDART GALLERY Founder Charl Bezuidenhout showcases provocative emerging artists such as Khaya Witbooi, a former newspaper illustrator who now produces politically inclined pop art paintings. worldart.co.za Plan your trip at afar.com/visit/capetown.…

Hostel Takeover What do you get when you take the playfulness of a hostel and add a dose of sophistication? These five new lodging options. Plus: a new retreat in Bali that will cure whatever ails you. 1 Generator 12 LOCATIONS IN EUROPE Launched in London in 2007, Generator has grown at a steady clip, expanding into 11 European cities. The focus is on prime locations (Canal St. Martin in Paris, for instance), inspired design (300 lanterns hang from the ceiling of the bar in the Generator Barcelona), and inviting spaces that are part of the social life of the neighborhood (a latenight speakeasy in Amsterdam). The latest addition: the 75-room Generator Rome, whose rooftop terrace offers panoramic views of the city. The first Generator in the United States will…

C’MON OVER! TAIWAN Of the 67 countries surveyed, Taiwan took top honors in the quality-of-life department. Expats report feeling safe and pleased with their work-life balance. MALTA The Mediterranean nation scored well for its sunny climate, hospitable locals, cheap housing, and welcoming environment for entrepreneurs. ECUADOR Though the country has recently suffered through tough economic times, Ecuador is consistently top-rated thanks to its quality health care and low cost of housing. THINK ABOUT IT NEW ZEALAND Kiwi-wannabes enjoy a strong job market, a clean environment, and lots of leisure activities. But making friends is tough, as is dealing with the geographic isolation. ITALY Expats report shorter workweeks, heavenly food, and outstanding beaches. But high taxes and the continuing economic crisis are major downsides. INDONESIA The beaches are stunning and the…

NEW YORK CITY Old-school charm abounds in this studio walk-up on the Upper East Side: arched doorways, hardwood floors, decorative fireplace. But living quarters are cramped, and the kitchen—with its minifridge—is nanoscopic. THE NETHERLANDS A three-bedroom, 1,356- square-foot duplex on the two upper floors of a historic canal-front mansion in the town of Utrecht also offers a spacious balcony where you can relax and watch the boats go by. JAPAN It’s a tight squeeze, but at least this 314-square-foot, onebedroom tower apartment comes with a ninth-floor balcony and a walk-in closet. Plus, it’s located in Tokyo’s nightclub-saturated Roppongi district. TANZANIA A furnished three-bedroom, four-bath beachfront bungalow sits on 8.6 private acres in the seaside town of Kigoma. Selling points include a private terrace with an ocean view, garage, manicured garden,…

Local pride runs deep in the region William Butler Yeats dubbed “The Land of Heart’s Desire.” Historic houses trace their lineage back generations, restaurant owners greet their suppliers by name, and the countryside begs to be explored along well-worn trails. —maggie fuller STAY Ashford Castle Cong, Co. Mayo The recently refurbished castle, which dates back to 1228, is perhaps the finest hotel in Ireland. Antiques and art fill the 82 rooms and suites, and the surrounding 350 acres provide a playground where guests can try archery, falconry, and many other activities. From $330. Coopershill House Riverstown, Co. Sligo The stately house at Coopershill is straight out of a Georgian-era novel. Dainty-legged mahogany antiques and plush sofas furnish the eight bedrooms, and the 500-acre estate provides seasonal game and vegetables for dinner.…

How to Weekend in the Winelands To get the full measure of Cape Town’s mountain-ringed winelands, give yourself at least two days. Private, all-day tours are available, but renting a car allows you to meander as you please. And the three-town triangle of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, and Paarl is full of pleasures. Paarl-based Babylonstoren, with its glass-and-steel tasting room, edible garden, and Cape Dutch cottages, remains the most romantic place to spend your first night. Babel, the on-site restaurant, is a stunner, but for an unrivaled farm-to-fork meal, book the Table at the nearby De Meye wine farm. Chef Jessica Shepherd creates family-style dishes out of produce grown on-site and serves them at wooden tables beneath a canopy of trees. On day two, start early to try wines at a cluster…

1 Baltimore The city’s empty industrial spaces are buzzing with new energy these days. The 50,000-square-foot food hall R. House, once an auto shop, rolled open its garage doors in December with seven restaurants, a café, an ice cream shop, and a bar. Early this year, West Coast hotel brand Pendry opens its first eastern outpost on Fell’s Point Recreation Pier. The 1914 building was originally a dance hall and social hub for Baltimore’s immigrants, and the former ballroom will now become a banquet space. The whole city is easier than ever to explore after the October launch of a 24/7 bike share program with a fleet of both eight-gear and electric-assist rides. 2 Telluride The ski town is shaking its image as a hard-to-reach destination with more frequent nonstop…

What makes Generator different from a traditional hostel? Most people think of hostels as small spaces for students on a budget. Ever since 2007, when the first Generator opened in London, we’ve emphasized the lifestyle experience. We recently put a stronger focus on restaurants and bars that bring locals in. We opened a nightclub in Amsterdam and a rooftop restaurant in Paris, an ice bar in Copenhagen, and a freestanding restaurant next to Generator Stockholm. At all of our locations, you’re going to get a brilliant cup of coffee for the same price you’d pay at a local coffee shop, and our dining concepts are more akin to street food than to gourmet. What’s it like to sleep at a Generator hostel? We typically have 70 percent shared rooms and…

“Before we started the d3 project in 2012, we were hearing from tourists that it was hard to access work originating here. “In November 2015, we completed the first phase of the district: 2 million square feet of space with concept and niche shops, galleries, and workshops for artists, including the product designer Aljoud Lootah.” (Her “Oru” chair is pictured below.) “We’re still moving in, though people can visit. The second phase—a mix of ateliers, workshops, and retail space—will be in place in 2019. When complete, the district will be a meeting zone for design enthusiasts and practitioners from all over the world and the Arab region in particular. We want creative people to collaborate, vibe off each other, and ultimately establish a new design vernacular. And it’s completely accessible…

THE SEA DOG Magazine-editor-turned-mariner Amy Paulsen squeezed her family of four onto a sailboat (twice!) and let the winds guide their adventures. What they found in Barcelona, however, was a reason to stay put. —AS TOLD TO ANDREW PARKS EXPAT FILE NO. 1 MY HUSBAND AND I are big fans of quitting our jobs; we ditched “real life” twice to live on a boat. The first time, when my daughters were 11 and 7, we sailed from the Chesapeake Bay to the Bahamas. We hopped from island to island for 11 months, homeschooling our kids along the way. Five years later, we sold our townhouse in New York and had a boat custombuilt and shipped to Mallorca. We had no idea how long we would be abroad, but we stayed…

EXPAT FILE NO. 8 WE’RE DRIVING A minivan with a Space Shuttle bumper sticker: three children, one husband, and my visiting sister. The kids squirm in the backseat. Everyone’s hungry. It’s Saturday in Istanbul, our fourth Foreign Service home in seven years. I turn onto a narrow street, heading to our usual parking lot near the Grand Bazaar. A few ablas (sisters) in their bright hijabs walk in front of us, bags full of lemons and pomegranates. I turn into a current of carts that are pushed by men peddling copper wire and knife sharpeners. I stop. Is this a oneway street? Is this even a street? I thought I remembered. This doesn’t look right. The car behind me honks a long, irritated honk. More men cross the street, balancing…