In October 2017, I was once again bound to the capital of Chad, N’Djamena, for another adventure-filled trip into the Sahara. On arrival, I met up with Moussa who was immaculately dressed in a long white djellaba. He was head of the local tour operator, Tchad Evasion which, along with German operator Desert Reisen, had organised a four week tour into the Sahara for myself and a German group. On the morning of our departure, we met our Desert Reisen guide Matina, who hails from Vienna in Austria – she proudly claimed that she had already visited some 60 countries. And finally, our Tubu team – Omar, guide and driver, drivers Hassan and Abdeh, and cook, Samba. They told me that the Tubu greeting was khalega, and to say thank…