MALLORCA TAKES ITS traditional pastry, the ensaïmada, quite seriously. The Balearic island established a denomination of origin, Ensaimada de Mallorca, to differentiate knockoff versions from authentic products, much as winemakers do. Pau Llull’s bakery, Forn Fondo, is one establishment whose ensaïmadas have the stamp of approval from locals and visiting cruisers alike. ¶ Forn Fondo has produced pastries since at least 1742, and it’s been in Llull’s family since 1911, when his great-grandmother and her husband took over. Llull and his sister, Neus, are now fourth-generation Forn Fondo owners. ¶ Naturally, Llull’s most popular pastries are ensaïmadas, which are spiral-shaped and can come with various fillings. However, Llull says, the most traditional ensaïmadas, and the ones that carry the denomination of origin, are “smooth” (sans filling) or filled with cabell…
