Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2024 i Wallpaper

What makes a fine jewellery collection a classic? For Parisian jewellery house Boucheron, the winning formula is a playful combination of distinctive design and wearability, perfectly encapsulated in the ‘Quatre’ collection, which this year celebrates its 20th anniversary. Launched originally as a ring design only, the piece had an uncomplicated premise: four bands (a simple nod to the name, which is French for ‘four’), with interlocking circles holding their own distinct texture and finish. Each nods to a facet of Boucheron’s history, from the fluted design of the first band, recalling the couture heritage and ribbons of the brand’s founder, Frédéric Boucheron, the son of a draper, to the second band in mirror-polished diamonds reminiscent of high jewellery. The third band’s faceted motif is inspired by Paris’ cobbled streets, while…

Model: Kelly Mittendorf at Elite London Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM Set design: Kim Harding Hair: Yumi Nakada-Dingle using Bumble and Bumble Make-up: Sunao Takahashi from Saint Luke using Byredo Manicure: Jessica Ciesco at Snow Creatives using Nailberry Photography assistant: Tom Porter Set design assistant: Lucy Ann Fraser Fashion assistant:Lucy Proctor Production assistant: Ady Huq Digi tech: Anna-Sophia John For stockists, see page 161…

For our second Style Issue of the year, our fashion and creative director Jason Hughes and fashion features editor Jack Moss have chosen to explore the sensual delights of tactility, texture and touch. It’s a theme that runs throughout the A/W24 collections, where the clothes implore you to reach out and stroke them, and Hughes and Moss were determined to capture this form of sensory pleasure in words and pictures. The results are starkly alluring. Photographed for our main womenswear fashion story by Nicole Maria Winkler, this month’s cover star, seminal American model Kelly Mittendorf, is styled by Hughes in leathers, shearling and faux furs, all touchpoints for the new, sensual approach to dressing. Meanwhile, photographer Matthieu Delbreuve and stylist David St John James highlight the fundamental appeal of menswear…

Kim Jones admits there is something disorientating about discussing one collection while in the midst of the preparations for another. It is a hot June day in Paris and we are sat, fans whirring, in a Dior showroom a stone’s throw from the Arc de Triomphe. The British designer is surrounded by pieces from his S/S25 collection for Dior Men, which he will show the following day. A cluster of ceramic cats by South African artist-potter Hylton Nel, one of the collection’s inspirations, are lined up behind Jones, watching on. The next day in the Val-de-Grâce show space, they will be blown up to enormous size, populating the catwalk in surreal style. But the subject of the conversation is his A/W24 collection, which arrives in stores this September and was…

‘A soft suit is just as practical as a tracksuit but, in daily public life, much more appropriate,’ says Giorgio Armani, the 90-year-old fashion designer, who, in one glorious swipe of a sentence (there will be more later), begins to lay bare some of where we happen to find ourselves with menswear in the autumn of 2024. Saint Laurent’s A/W24 menswear collection, shown in Paris in March at the Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection – the Tadao Ando-renovated modern art museum in the 1st arrondissement – offered further illumination. An opening double-breasted suit jacket that was generous in shape – everything falling impeccably from a wide and stern 1980s shoulder, worn with a loose-cuffed trouser and tie – set out a convincing case for a tailoring mood pertinent with languid elegance.…

Hygiene is considered to be something of a modern preoccupation, but there is evidence that soap was invented by ancient civilisations nearly 5,000 years ago. Archaeologists unearthed traces of it in Babylonian clay artefacts, which were also inscribed with recipes for soap-making. In Aleppo, olive oil, laurel berry oil and lye were melted down, then cooled underground to form a vast, avocado-green sheet, a process that remains largely unchanged today. (Some myths recount Cleopatra bathing in milk, using Aleppo soap). Echoing this ancient wisdom, Santa Maria Novella – the oldest pharmacy in the world, with roots that trace back to 13th-century Florence – produces a buttery milk soap bar that is available unscented or containing botanical ingredients such as gardenia or verbena. A bar of soap also recalls the mid-twentieth…

Model: Indy van Opstal at Ford Models Paris Casting: Svea Casting Grooming: Chris Sweeney at One Represents using Sunday Riley and Sisley Interiors: Olly Mason Photography assistant: Kevin Ramos Fashion assistant:Olivia Meghan Interiors assistant: Archie Thomson Production assistant: Minna Vauhkonen For stockists, see page 161…

SOFT TOUCH Enveloping textures, the pleasure of clothing on the skin: this season is all about tactility. Cue a melange of furry, fuzzy, soft-to-the-touch textures – whether the teddy-bear feel of a Dries Van Noten bag or the fluffy finish of a Carven skirt. GLOSSED OVER Slick, high-shine textures lent this season’s menswear a futuristic sheen. At Jil Sander, lustrous crackled-leather overcoats appeared as part of a collection that designers Lucie and Luke Meier described as an ‘immersive capsule, smooth and embracing’. PARALLEL LINES The stripe is one of Missoni’s enduring motifs, often appearing in vivid colour combinations. Designer Filippo Grazioli paid homage to the pattern in playful style, like with these shaggy knit stripes, which adorn an elongated overcoat. MATCH POINT This season saw designers explore the co-ordinating accessory,…

Forms were an abstract concept for Jean Arp, the early-twentieth-century German-French sculptor, painter and poet, who drew on nature’s organic silhouettes to create sensual shapes in his work. The ephemeral nature of his sculptures, encapsulated particularly in the series he created in the 1950s after being inspired during trips to Greece, made his estate a natural choice for Celine creative director Hedi Slimane when considering the next focus for the Celine Bijoux d’Artistes Project. Paying tribute to great avant-garde artists, the project has so far collaborated with the estates of French sculptor César and American sculptor Louise Nevelson, translating their works into wearable art forms in 2020 and 2022 respectively. Now, the third iteration of the project is a homage to Jean Arp’s work Ptolémée II, a biomorphic shape juxtaposing…

There are, as yet, few couture labels on the African continent, but the Cape Town-based Budism Couture is doing a noteworthy job of changing those statistics. Founded in 2014 by Budi Adji and Philipp Althof in Hong Kong, but now based in South Africa, the haute couture label specialises in creating bespoke hand-embroidered gowns and accessories, using both local and global artisans and textile manufacturers. The brand is driven by a desire to employ the highest quality craftsmanship to create simple but exquisite silhouettes and, in 2022, it felt it needed an architectural manifestation of this ethos, acquiring a derelict 240-year-old Cape Dutch building, located on Cape Town’s Bree Street, to house its atelier and showroom. Originally built in the 1780s, the building has since been meticulously restored by local…

I’ve always been very exposed to this strange state of alienation,’ says Nadège Vanhée, the artistic director of Hermès’ womenswear collections. After moving to Antwerp to study at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in her twenties – the school that had memorably birthed the Antwerp Six, among them Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck and Dries Van Noten – for the next 15 years, she would largely live outside of her native France. First, there was a stint at Delvaux in Brussels, then Maison Martin Margiela in Paris, before joining Phoebe Philo at Celine in London. In 2011, she moved to New York, becoming design director at Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s then-burgeoning label, The Row. So the role at Hermès – one of France’s best-known luxury exports and an emblem…

Acne Studios acnestudios.com Aesop aesop.com Atelier Saman Amel samanamel.com Auralee auralee.jp B&B Italia bebitalia.com Bally bally.com Begg x Co beggxco.com Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com Boucheron boucheron.com Burberry burberry.com Carlo Manzi carlomanzi.com Carrière Frères carrierefreres.com Carven carven.com CC-Steding cc-steding.com CDLP cdlp.com Celine celine.com Chanel chanel.com Charvet charvet.com Church’s church-footwear.com Contemporary Wardrobe contemporarywardrobe.com Davies & Son daviesandson.com Dents dentsgloves.com Dior dior.com Diptyque diptyqueparis.com Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.com Dries Van Noten driesvannoten.com Dunhill dunhill.com Duran Lantink duranlantink.com Emporio Armani armani.com Falke falke.com Fendi fendi.com Ferragamo ferragamo.com Fitzgerald fitzgeraldbespoke.com Fussy getfussy.com Gucci gucci.com Hermès hermes.com Issey Miyake isseymiyake.com Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier jilsander.com Joe Merino joemerino.com Junya Watanabe Man at Dover Street Market doverstreetmarket.com Justine Clenquet justineclenquet.com Lindberg lindberg.com Loewe loewe.com Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com Magliano magliano.website Martine Rose martine-rose.com McQueen by Seán…