Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2017 i Vogue

Please don’t even think about asking Linda Fargo, the long-standing doyenne of Bergdorf Goodman, to single out her most favorite thing from all her favorite things at Linda’s, her new boutique tucked away on the fourth floor of the iconic store. “Oh, that is so hard!” Fargo wails, with a laugh. “Maybe one of the handpainted capes from Patricia Field. Or the vintage jewelry from Christian Lacroix—so many of us miss him, and the jewelry was a way to have him back. And I do love the Attico dress with the lobster on it. . . .” In the unlikely event you hadn’t noticed, eclectic and personal define what Fargo has brought together—an organically evolving roster of everything from the perfect white shirt, courtesy of Johanna Ortiz, to shawls sourced…

When the gangly beauty Plum Sykes went to the University of Oxford’s Worcester College in the late 1980s to study modern history, she discovered the place to be every bit as decadent, glamorous, fun, and romantic as the one immortalized in Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited. Sykes now remembers the demanding academic work, the long nights spent reading, cramming for exams in the library. But Oxford was also a time, she recalls, of “picnics in the Inigo Jones–designed quad and the Port Meadow, punting on the Cherwell, and lots and lots of black-tie parties, lots and lots of balls at these different colleges, lots and lots of pink champagne,” adding, “Everyone was fictionalizing their existence. Even then I remember thinking, This is really like being in a novel.” When Sykes, whose…

Let's take a moment to appreciate that in beauty, at least, we can sti II ad mire the other side of things. The two most prominent trends in makeup area study in contrasts: One involves bold, experimental color, and the other, practically none at all. Consider the 2017 runways, where conflicting visions and polar-opposite points of view were on full, glorious display. The models at ·Marc Jacobs appeared to have scrubbed-clean bees, while at Versus, a dramatic swoop of blue shadow extended defiantly to the temples. And the vibrant, fiery lipstick we saw at Jason VVu is precisely the shade you'd get if you mixed apples and oranges-instead of sending them to their respective corners. Obviously, a f~ts hion runway is somewhat surreal-and not exactly a bellwether for the outside…

COLOR GUARD PICTURE A WHITE SAND BEACH on Kenya’s coast, crystal-blue water stretching to the horizon—everything empty and wild except for the occasional bikini-clad tourist or a camel passing through. Now picture us—my kiteboarding girlfriend and me—rigging up our colorful equipment and carrying harnesses and boards with endless lines. Almost as complicated is our sunscreen ritual: We start with basic SPF lotion and then, armed with multiple fluorescent zinc sticks, we stripe our faces—canary yellow along the cheeks, royal blue across the forehead, hot pink down the nose. The kooky designs attract a few wondering stares—but under the harsh African sun, full coverage is our friend. Plus, this is a look! With eighties and early-nineties nostalgia flooding the runways, pops of extreme color are very en vogue. Turns out we’re…

The intermittent-fasting phenomenon, which promises to help us live longer— while wearing a size 2—is infinitely more appealing in theory than in practice, as anyone who has tried to motor through the day on parsley juice can attest. Researchers at the University of Southern California believe they’ve discovered a way to make the fasting experience more agreeable. Their five-day Fasting Mimicking Diet (FMD), designed to trick the body into believing it has entered a fasting state, includes 1,100 calories on day one and 800 the subsequent four—still closer to famine than feast, but not unbearable, says USC’s Valter Longo, Ph.D., a biogerontologist and study author. And the regimen triggers new cell growth in mice, the ne plus ultra of antiaging science. For the human trial, 71 people followed the FMD…

A huge television and stage star in England, Derren Brown brings his singular brand of suave, brainfrying astonishment to these shores for the first time with Secret, at the Atlantic Theater Company. Brown’s bailiwick is mentalism (mind-reading), which he performs with startling acuity. Expect to see him wander freely through the minds of various dumbfounded audience members— maybe even your own. Meanwhile, Derek DelGaudio, whose moon face and self-deprecating air belie his deviousness, brings his one-man show In & Of Itself, a collection of card tricks and illusions mixed with stories and philosophical speculation about the nature of identity, to the Daryl Roth Theatre, directed by Frank Oz (of Muppets fame), with music by Devo’s Mark Mothersbaugh. Suzan-Lori Parks’s 1996 play Venus takes place in the world of magic’s seedier…

I’m interested in the way ordinary lives go wrong— people who are driven unfairly to extremes, neighbors or family members whose lives suddenly take a dark turn,” says Paula Hawkins, reached by phone in Sedona, where she landed after her vacation, a calmbefore- the-promotional-storm tour of national parks in the American West with her attorney boyfriend, Simon Davis, was upended by monsoon-like rains that washed away entire roadways. Some detours, of course, are more welcome than others. The London-based author was a finance journalist writing romantic comedy under a pseudonym when she was thrown the curveball of dreams: Her debut thriller, The Girl on the Train, went stratospheric, selling eighteen million copies and becoming a film starring a wonderfully boozy Emily Blunt. Now Hawkins is at the forefront of a…

October 1967. My best friend and I decide to take a bus from Manhattan to the Pentagon march in Washington. We are freshmen at Barnard but still living at home in Queens, and we know we have to lie to our working-class parents, who would be appalled at the idea of an anti war demonstration. We say we have important group projects to work on; we will have to spend the weekend in the library and sleep on the floor of our friends’ dorm rooms. Fifty years later I am at the Women’s March in Washington; my daughter is marching in her hometown of Madison, Wisconsin. She texts me a picture of the poster she is carrying, on which she has drawn a vagina dentata. My eye falls on a…

“EVERYONE KEEPS SAYING TO ME, ‘Are you prepared?’ ” says Laura Harrier, 27, and they might be on to something. Headed as she is to the big screen this summer in Spider-Man: Homecoming, an entire universe of interconnected films awaits. In the fantastical franchise, however, she sees her mission as staying grounded in reality. “I’m trying to find someone I can relate to,” Harrier says of her choice of roles. “The characters I’m drawn to are well-written, fully actualized humans, not just types.” A theatrical child, Harrier grew up in the Chicago area performing plays for her family before heading to Manhattan’s William Esper Studio to study the Meisner technique. If she weren’t an actress, Harrier says, “I think I would be kind of a much quieter, smaller person.” The…

It’s not wholly accurate to call Anicka Yi a visual artist. While Yi is both a sculptor who uses unheard-of materials (think tempura-fried flowers) and also a filmmaker whose 3-D video is a highlight of the current Whitney Biennial, her most innovative works to date arguably have been conceptual fragrances. For Yi’s new solo show at the Guggenheim—the result of her winning the 2016 Hugo Boss Prize—the Seoul-born, Manhattan-based artist is working with both scientists and French perfumer Barnabé Fillion to develop a scent that will diffuse throughout the museum galleries. If olfactory experiences make for the strongest impressions, Yi’s will be a show to remember.…

BROUGHT TO YOU BY GARNIER Our fovonte looks of the moment express a brooder-and more beautifulpoint of view. Doring haircuts, ortsy eyeliner, and strik1ngly bore skin redefine the narrow old standards. They ploy up a mood and draw out a quality, accentuating that indefinable th ing we like to call spint.…

A new crop of launches is challenging mineral sunscreen’s chalky reputation with totally invisible, chemical-free coverage. Susanne Kaufmann Facial Sun Cream SPF 30 Infused with Zano, a patented form of sheer zinc oxide with anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and skin-healing benefits, the Austrian skin-care pro’s newest launch also boasts broad-spectrum protection. Bare Republic Mineral Sport Sunscreen Spray After three years of research, this first-to-market, non–nano particle mineral SPF 40 spray successfully turns transparent seconds after it hits your skin. NYDG Chem-Free Active Defense SPF 30 The latest advancement from Manhattan dermatologist David Colbert, M.D., suspends a finely micronized form of zinc oxide in a botanical base of hydrating olive-derived squalene and argan extract. Aveeno Baby Continuous Protection Sensitive Skin Zinc Oxide Sunscreen SPF 50 With a high level of protection for babies—and…

“After a good dinner,” wrote Oscar Wilde, “one can forgive anybody, even one’s own relations.” This idea gets put to the test in The Dinner, Oren Moverman’s entertaining adaptation of the Herman Koch best seller centering on a lavish meal at a parodically pretentious restaurant. Steve Coogan stars as Paul Lohman, a corrosively witty former history teacher, who, along with his eager wife, Claire (Laura Linney), gets dragooned into dinner by his older brother, Stan (Richard Gere), a glad-handing congressman with a glamorous younger wife, Katelyn (Rebecca Hall). The evening starts off snippily, with Paul telling Stan, “You can stop smiling now . . . it’s just us,” but as the hypercurated dishes are rolled out, we learn the family secret that’s the true reason for the meal. Although Moverman’s…

it’s a weekday morning at the Getty Villa in Los Angeles, and the actress Logan Browning is sipping coffee on the steps of the museum’s amphitheater. She’s early for our interview and passed the time reading James Baldwin’s The Fire Next Time and making new friends—two women from Santa Monica who were fascinated to hear about her Netflix show, Dear White People. It’s already sparked a lot of conversation— not all so pleasant. Netflix’s release of a 30-second teaser in February triggered a social-media backlash from members of the alt-Right, one of whom claimed the show encouraged “white genocide.” No such hysteria greeted Justin Simien’s 2014 movie on which the show is based. “But that was in an Obama presidency, and the show is coming out in a Trump presidency,”…

Idon’t think gender even exists.” It’s a sunny day in Los Angeles, and the eighteen-yearold actor Amandla Stenberg is sitting under a flowering tree in the backyard of her rented bungalow in West L.A., very much living up to her reputation as the wokest teenager alive. “My sexuality’s very fluid and my gender is very fluid,” says Stenberg, who is petite and cherubic at five feet three, dressed in black denim overalls and a purple-and-white thriftstore shirt, her hair cropped short for her latest movie. “I don’t think of myself as statically a girl.” Stenberg was already known for playing Rue in 2012’s The Hunger Games when, two years ago, a video she made for a high school class went viral online. Titled “Don’t Cash Crop My Cornrows,” it’s a…

few modern stories have had as many retellings as the improbable, outlandish, often harrowing Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, which Roald Dahl published in 1964— but few have made such a confection of the human state. Since its appearance, Charlie has been adapted into two mainstream films, an opera, and various video games (an irony for a parable of childhood overindulgence, but one its creator might have found truly scrumptious). In 2013 it became a London musical directed by Sam Mendes, with songs by Hairspray team Marc Shaiman and Scott Wittman, and set a record for weekly boxoffice grosses in the West End. This spring’s New York production, directed by the Broadway veteran Jack O’Brien, is a ground-up reimagining, complete with new songs, a modified script, and, as envisioned by…

As a person who has spent every August of his life in Maine, I confess to some degree of peevishness around the new hegemony of the lobster roll. I bristle at it, in miniature, on doily-laden trays at uptown Manhattan galas and at modish outer-borough food bazaars. I have cold-shouldered its appearance at the Santa Monica Farmers Market and recoiled at its name written in looping white letters on the slate board of a Paris bistro. The crab roll, on the other hand, has been a sort of selfish consolation. Up until recently I didn’t think I’d ever see one south of Kittery, Maine. Maryland crab cakes, definitely; blue-crab hand rolls at the end of long sushi dinners, sure. But the crab roll, I thought, with a brittle and bratty…

Louis Vuitton bag Perhaps it's time to make an addendum to Oscar Wilde's dictum that "one should either be a work of art. or wear a work of art." Having seen Louis Vuitton's latest artist collaboration. this time with Jeff Koons. we think it's fair to say that one should, instead, sling a work of art over one's shoulder. Fragonard's circa-1770 Girl with Dog receives the Koons treatment for the occasion, making a cameo on this top-handle canvas satchel in a saccharine palette borrowed from a patisserie counter. Call Koons's insouciant interventions-FRAGONARD emblazoned in a bold metallic typeface and a tag dangling with the silhouette of a pink inflatable rabbit-the latest mash-up in the ongoing art-meets-fashion frolics.…

THREE SEASONS AGO, at the point when discontent about the representation of women in fashion started rumbling in the background, Marques’Almeida took a look at how they were working, and stopped it. “It came to the point where we thought it wasn’t enough to design by mood boards—that was feeling kind of empty. So we decided: It’s the girls who bring the reality.” Marta Marques is explaining how she and her partner, Paulo Almeida, came to listen to their instincts and plug directly into the energy of the people they know. “Now we get the clothes together on a rail and wait for the girls to come in and choose,” says Almeida. “There’s no preplanning before the show.” The brilliantly accessible hot mess of multilayered, manycolored prints, tiny skirts, baggy…

In a world gone blurry with sound bites, click bait, and knee-jerk reactions, an original message provides a focal point and a reminder of what true authenticity looks like. And that's exactly what's driving the latest, bravest trends in hair. Assertive cuts and daring color have more dimension and substance than your typical, fleeting beauty statement. When model Ysaunny Brito shaved both sides of her head, the buzz cut felt less like a passing phase and more like a promise kept-a pledge to keep challenging safe old standards. The same goes for singer and songwriter Halsey, whose electric-blue strands add visible depth to her revealing lyrics (it's no coincidence that one of her most poignant songs is titled "Colors"). And beauty insider Irene Kim has a creative streak that takes…

AMBUSH, THE TOKYO-BASED JEWELRY BRAND, was destined for success long before its eyeball rings and gilded breastplates landed on Lady Gaga and Rihanna. Launched in 2008, the multidisciplinary streetwear concept is the brainchild of Verbal, a celebrated rapper and producer, and Yoon Ahn, a talented graphic artist. Together, they make statement pieces that have caught the attention of not only music moguls (Kanye West is another fan) and K-Pop superstars but also LVMH, which chose the power duo’s brand as a finalist for this year’s Prize for Young Fashion Designers. Their next project, a limited-edition collection for Shu Uemura out this month, is an obvious evolution of the pair’s ethos. “In street culture, makeup has always been about self-expression,” says Yoon, who selected a deliberately vibrant, yet easy-to-wear palette of…

FRÉDÉRIC FEKKAI WAS IN his mid-40s when a regular visit to his doctor revealed an unexpected prognosis. “He said, ‘When you turn 50, you’ll see, you’re going to be more drawn to your roots,” recalls Fekkai, who laughed off the proposition at the time. A native of Aix-en-Provence, Fekkai had been making regular trips to the South of France from his home in New York to see family, although he no longer felt a connection to the modest bohemian culture just 75 miles from the glitz of the Riviera, where a briny Mediterranean breeze collides with the foothills of the Alps. But on one such visit shortly after his milestone birthday and following the sale of his hair-care empire, something changed, according to the now 58-year-old. “I saw this amazing…

When viewers last saw Dev, Aziz AnsariÕs alter ego in Master of None, the millennial-minded Netflix series he created with Alan Yang, the character was leaving New York after a breakup, hoping to study pasta-making in Italy. Two winters ago, Ansari made the same pilgrimage, landing in Modena after two weeks of daily Italian lessons. “No one in Modena knew who I was. They’re just like, Oh, this guy,” Ansari recalls in the hushed bohemian lounge of New York’s Bowery Hotel, on Valentine’s Day afternoon. For two months he worked in a pasta shop and in Hosteria Giusti, a restaurant later included in an episode. When he returned, with a full crew, to film the start of the show’s second season— shot in black-and-white with Italian dialogue, it’s a playful…

The Grammy-winning Brooklyn Youth Chorus has performed with everyone from Elton John to Lou Reed to Grizzly Bear, but to toast its twentyfifth season the ensemble hatched an idea that was decidedly more homegrown. “Rather than have adults frame what young people are singing,” says founder and artistic director Dianne Berkun Menaker, “we looked to the kids for ideas.” In a chorus of 650 children from a wide socioeconomic stratum, it’s not surprising that questions of racial, sexual, and gender identity come up. The resulting Silent Voices is a series of new commissions premiering at BAM this month. Contributing composers include Nico Muhly, who mined a seventeenthcentury ladies’ etiquette book, and Jeff Beal, who was inspired by Eleanor Roosevelt’s relationship with civil-rights activist Pauli Murray. Woven together with writings by…

Some family stories we pass on, adding chapters like rooms to a house; others are burned into our subconscious. Poet Hala Alyan’s ambitious debut novel, Salt Houses (HMH), follows the scattered generations of one Palestinian family for whom “nostalgia is an affliction,” moving from the Six-Day War and a future glimpsed in a daughter’s lipsticked coffee cup, to 9/11 and its aftermath. The idealistic Jewish-Burmese couple in Charmaine Craig’s autobiographically inspired Miss Burma (Grove Press) take an astonishing leap into the unknown by falling in love without speaking the same language, only to watch their daughter unwittingly become a national symbol. A long marriage is a kind of narrative, one that operates under all kinds of mythologies, or so realizes the befuddled husband who narrates Katherine Heiny’s hilarious first novel,…

IN an echoing studio in Brooklyn’s hipster Red Hook neighborhood, Grace Coddington and a team of earnest Comme des Garçons minions are fastening Katy Perry into something that resembles a child’s toy car fashioned from jade-green fake-Astrakhan fur with a many-tentacled faux–ostrich feather boa shimmying at her hips like an Elizabethan life preserver. “Done everything else,” says Perry drily, “why not check this box?” Nugget, Perry’s adorable, ginger biscuit–colored micro teacup poodle, gambols at her feet, which are being coaxed into shoes with long, pointed toes, like those of medieval knights in brass rubbings. If her arms weren’t entirely constrained by Rei Kawakubo’s conceptual straitjacket, she would sweep Nugget up in them. “I collect tiny things,” says Perry. “She brings so much love. When I wake up, she’s the only…

Standing gracefully amid six acres of tangled gardens, Wardington Manor is as rambling as any En glish rose. Once the site of a medieval nunnery, the Cotswolds property was rebuilt in the seventeenth century, then extended and adapted by (among others) the architect Randall Wells in the 1920s and decorated by a succession of imaginative chatelaines. Wells’s wife, Molly, installed spectacularly inventive yet appropriate plasterwork that resembles the chevrons of Italian flamework embroidery. The result is rich in the character and romance of the Arts and Crafts movement, in which Elizabethan England was nostalgically evoked and personal dreams were defined through nature and style. When Wardington’s current owners, Bridget Elworthy and her husband, Forbes, first saw the house they did not immediately fall under its spell. Having come from a…

Cover look 46: Dress, $16,145; Comme des Garçons, NYC. Editor’s letter 67: Dress, headpiece, tights, and shoes (priced upon request); (212) 604- 9200 for information. Excerpt 68: Shirtdress, $895; Zero + Maria Cornejo, L.A. Pippa Small Jewellery necklace, $3,380; pippasmall.com. Talking fashion 100: On Hammam and Rosa: Dion Lee shearling slides, $995; dionlee .com. 108: Cuff, $1,195; Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. Necklace, $2,495; Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. 118: Brooches from Balenciaga Paris Archives, 1960. Beauty 136: Dress, $5,930; select Miu Miu boutiques. Maria Tash earring, $117; mariatash.com. 138: BCMT Co. plate, $130, blackcreekmt .com. PATA 147: Trench coat, $657; aspesi.com. Tailor, Mack Mozé. 148: Molly Virginia Made coasters, $45 each; mollyvirginiamade.com. 154: Dress, $568; select Diane von Furstenberg stores. Adidas Originals sneakers, $80 for similar styles; adidas.com. Jessica Winzelberg earrings, $270; jessicawinzelberg.com.…