Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2017 i Vogue

As someone who doesn’t real ly believe in looking back very much or ver y often, I’m going to break wi th the habit of a lifetime and start this April’s letter by talking about the recent past—specifically, our March 2017 issue, which celebrated the female designers who have helped define our vision of fashion, and the new generation of models who are as feisty as they are gorgeous, bringing, thankfully, a more pluralistic idea of beauty to the runway. That issue was the starting point for our 125th anniversary, which we have decided to commemorate by celebrating throughout this year 125 women from all walks of life who share one singular quality: Each of them makes the world an in_nitely better and more fascinating place. The women we bring…

O n a recent afternoon in Manhattan, Charlotte Gainsbourg, the famous daughter of iconic parents, is leaning back in an o!ce chair, detailing a very different version of her charmed upbringing in Paris than the one more commonly idolized. “She cut my hair short, and people in the street called me ‘Mon petit gar,’ short for garçon,” she recalls of the early stylistic choices that her mother, model and actress Jane Birkin, made for her, right down to the boy’s school uniform Gainsbourg was dressed in as a child. “Later in life, I thought, Why am I so uncomfortable being a girl?” she says, her trimmed shag haircut rustling gently as she laughs. Despite her attempts to look feminine as an adolescent, lipstick and frills just never worked for her,…

I’ve now entered phase two of a twelve-month project to refresh my face nonsurgically: my _rst-ever dose of _ller. Despite the success of the tightening laser Macrene Alexiades, M.D., Ph.D., has already advised (phase one), I am still on edge about having my face “volumized.” When I reconnect with Dr. Macrene, she nods as I relay my fears. “I don’t do point and shoot. You will not. Know where. The _ller is,” she says. At least hyaluronic-acid injections are reversible, I tell myself. Dr. Macrene starts by administering Juvéderm in my upper jaw to vanquish incipient jowls. In seconds, said jowls have glided upward like an automated window shade, and she has unearthed a chin dimple that was long buried, like an Etruscan urn. We move on to under-eye bags;…

Uprooted from her prep school and dropped into a desolate Lake Michigan town, Cat, the teenage narrator of Julie Buntin’s magnetic first novel, Marlena (Henry Holt), finds a life buoy in the girl next door: a reckless beauty with perfect pitch, a backyard meth lab, and “that glow to her that lives in lost things.” A disquieted privilege marks Julianne Pachico’s fearless debut, The Lucky Ones (Spiegel & Grau), in which young women grow up sheltered from but haunted by the Colombian civil war. In the digital age, the lives of glamorous others have never felt more tantalizingly near, or so finds the lonely antiheroine of Olivia Sudjic’s Sympathy (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt). A fatherless Chanel No. 5–loving boy navigates coming of age in New Jersey amid the mixed messages of…

When Matt Tyrnauer (Valentino: The Last Emperor) first started work on Citizen Jane: Battle for the City, his new documentary about the mid-century urban theorist Jane Jacobs, he had no idea how relevant Jacobs’s example would feel in 2017. “If we have to gear up to fight, there’s no one better to look to than Jane Jacobs for the playbook of how to push back against wrongheaded political agendas,” he observes. Born in Scranton, Pennsylvania, Jacobs moved in 1934 to New York, where, over the next three decades, she became a journalist (for Vogue, among other places), an author (she laid out her bottom-up, organized-chaos theory of cities in 1961’s The Death and Life of Great American Cities), and an activist who took on New York’s megalomaniacal “master builder” Robert…

i would not have taken Maria Sharapova for a tea person. But here we are, standing in her kitchen parsing the !ner points of grated ginger and stainless-steel infusers. I don’t even drink tea, but we both have rotten colds, so Sharapova has conjured the most delicious hot beverage I’ve ever tasted in a teapot made entirely of glass. The elixir is electric greenish-yellow— the color of a tennis ball—and one of the only splashes of color in the pristine white-and-gray Minimalist house that Sharapova spent three years building in Manhattan Beach, California. You would never know a tennis player lives here. “Nowhere will you !nd a clue,” she says, laughing. But you will !nd other clues—about its occupant’s interest in modern art, architecture, and good design. There are large…

My one-year-old nephew, Teddy, started to cry as soon as his father handed him over to me. I didn’t know how to hold a baby. Scrunching up his face, now bright red, he squirmed de!antly in my arms. “Please, little man,” I whispered, rocking Teddy from side to side, shaking a rattle inches from his nose. “Just let Daddy take his shower.” I sang “B-I-N-G-O,” stuck out my tongue, played peekaboo— all the things I’d seen Teddy’s father do to make him laugh. The crying came harder. I held out my phone—something Teddy always wanted to play with, but we never let him do—and watched him smear his tiny !ngers across the glowing screen, mesmerized and, miraculously, quiet. It didn’t last long. My brother-in-law Craig returned downstairs in his suit,…

Happy Sunday morning,” says Rodarte’s Laura Mulleavy, calling from Pasadena. “Good afternoon from New York,” chirps Stuart Vevers. Pleasantries aside, the bicoastal buzz of camaraderie on this conference call is as buoyant as the upcoming collaboration between Rodarte and Coach. New York heritage brand meets L.A. dreamers—could it get more American? The fact that the collection will be for purchase in international markets is almost beside the point: Though Vevers hails from Yorkshire, since he took on the creative directorship of the brand in 2013 a kind of _lmic Americana has roared through his collections and—inspired by what he calls Rodarte’s “freeing, thoughtful, and transportive” qualities—prompted him to contact the Mulleavy sisters. Like so many great American creations, the adventure began with a road trip. “I loaded up my suitcases…

When the dapper young English shoe designer Paul Andrew arrived at Salvatore Ferragamo in Florence last summer to take on the role of designing the 90-year-old house’s shoes, he had only one thought: Everyone wears a sneaker today. Looking at the kind of inventive, brilliant, and sometimes even plain crazy ideas that Signor Ferragamo dreamed up when he shod just about every Hollywood star able to walk the length and breadth of the RKO back lot—the 1938 gold leather sandals resting on sky-high rainbow wedges, for instance, or the 1947 Invisible sandal, whose barely seen threads strapped the foot to a gold metallic kid-leather heel—Andrew’s observation would seem to run counter to everything Ferragamo stood for. Not so, he says: “Salvatore moved to America in 1914, then studied anatomy in…

Ask any aesthetician what their clients are buzzing about, and the answer may come in three letters: L.E.D. Small, low-intensity, and energy-efficient, light-emitting diodes are trending at cosmetic-dermatology practices and spas. The noninvasive technology is said to kill acne-causing bacteria, kick-start collagen and elastin production, and speed the healing process after resurfacing procedures, spurring the at-homedevice market as well. Now comes the Next Big Thing in L.E.D.: the first F.D.A.-cleared over-the-counter gadget for so-called full-body rejuvenation. LightStim’s new Professional LED Bed resembles a massage table crossed with a Lite-Brite game. Out!tted with 30 temperature-controlled L.E.D. panels that raise body heat in order to initiate a photochemical reaction with the skin, seven consoles were available in the U.S. in January; by June, 75 will be installed across the country. The futuristic…

Marcia Kilgore was on a train, zipping across the Italian border into the foothills of the Swiss Alps, when the idea came to her. She was transporting makeup samples from a luxury cosmetics manufacturer, and, looking down at the assortment—lipsticks, mascaras, and blush—Kilgore started to calculate the price markup that would occur as these tubes and compacts moved from laboratory to supplier to distributor to retailer before reaching consumers’ hands. It could easily amount to ten, maybe twelve times the cost—and that, she concluded, was absurd. The concept for Beauty Pie, her radical wholesale startup, was born. “I want to bring customers these amazing products at incredible prices, and be transparent about my motivation,” Kilgore reveals from her home in Founex, Switzerland. In case there is any confusion: That motivation…

Yet that’s never really been our thing; newness should always be the lifeblood of whatever we do. Over the course of the coming months, to commemorate our big 1-2-5, you’ll see and read—and hear and taste and perhaps even wear—a whole host of birthday surprises that we have lined up, on these pages, online, and elsewhere. Meanwhile, back to the question we started with. It’s something many of us are grappling with right now, and this April, we bring you a whole cast of inspiring women who’ve faced huge challenges and seemingly insurmountable odds, and arrived at that most enviable place in life where they can see a clear road ahead, even if they know there will still be a few bends and turns along the way. Yet the idea…

O n a cold December morning in Berlin, a week before a terrorist attack in a Christmas market would kill twelve people, Yusra Mardini is getting ready for a competition at the Olympic training pool built for the city’s infamous 1936 Games. (Adolf Hitler attempted to use them as a showcase for Aryan athletic prowess.) The temperature outside is frigid, and the water in the pool is not warm. Mardini, who competed in last summer’s Rio Olympics, is wearing a purple one-piece, her hair in a smooth ballerina bun. She plunges in and hits the surface as straight as an arrow. The market attack would be horribly ironic, given that Mardini had escaped the carnage in her native Syria !fteen months earlier to live, as she puts it, in “a…

Table of contents 44: Dress, $1,495; Missoni, NYC. Bag, $4,500; select Marc Jacobs stores. Annie Costello Brown earrings, $219; needsupply.com. Sandals, $795; 31philliplim.com. Cover look: Bralette ($2,250) and skirt ($5,995); select Michael Kors stores. Earrings, $550; jennifer!sherjewelry.com. In this story: Tailor, Susie Kourinian. Manicure, Tom Bachik. Editor’s letter 84: On Gomez: Tory Burch swimsuit, price upon request; (866) 480-8679. Jennifer Fisher earrings, $550; jennifer!sherjewelry.com. On the Countess of Burlington: Gucci jacket ($5,200), gilet ($1,350), and shirt ($720); select Gucci boutiques. Lives 124: On Glimcher: Saint James top, $90; saintjamesboutique.com. Joe Fresh jeans, $39; joefresh.com. On Katharine: YAM Bonpoint dress, $365; bonpoint.com. In this story: George Condo. Big Red Incorporated, 1997. Acrylic, oil, colored pencil, ink, pencil, and paper on canvas, 90" x 65". © 2016 George Condo/Artists Rights Society (ARS),…

FOR DECADES, THE FAMOUS FILM FESTIVAl AND THE RENOWNES JEWELRY HOUSE HAVE SHARED A COMMITMENT TO DAZZLING CREATIVITY DAZZLING CREATIVITY Art istry and glamour, perseverance and brilliant inspirat ion - the cinematic ach ievements heralded at Cannes and the jewelry of Chopard have so much in common. This spring, we ce lebrate th is bea ut iful friendship, a co llaboration that combines the best in film with some of the brightest, most modern jewels in the world. Since Cannes's first film festiva l70 years ago, starlets and ce lebrit ies have glided down the town's famed red sta ircase, their perfect physiques clad in the most exq uisite examples of French couture. And for the last 20 years, these symphonies of silk and satin have been matched by exquisite…

In late 2012, Nieves Zuberbühler submitted a job application to CBS’s 60 Minutes in which she proposed to investigate law enforcement’s use of young confidential informants in the war on drugs. A bold move, considering that she was only applying for an internship. “I just thought it was outrageous,” the Buenos Aires–born news producer remembers, noting that detectives prey specifically on young people, often teenagers, who have few options but to cooperate. “Eventually, I became obsessed.” She also got the internship. When Zuberbühler was promoted two years later, she pitched the story again and, with her boss Shari Finkelstein, produced it. Reported by Lesley Stahl, “Con!dential Informants” went on to win a 2016 Emmy Award, a statuette that now perches on a white bookshelf in her modernist West Village apartment—well…

A Swiss ski resort without much snow? Pointless? In Gstaad snow is low on the priority list. Year after year an international crowd with suitcases full of furs and Manolos descends on this sleepy village, knowing full well that they can count on white Alba truffles on their perfectly al dente pasta. Snow!akes, however, can make a more scant appearance. Growing up in Bavaria, I was on the slopes all day, my ski pass the only accessory needed. Gstaad reminded me of di"erent rules, where being invited into beautiful chalets is what it’s about. My uncle Mick Flick’s newly #nished chalet gave my cousins and me pole position on the view. He’s a patron of the arts with his own museum in Berlin and a vast private collection, and here…

These days, there’s a gym for every workout whim. But even in our fitness-obsessed culture, the idea of regularly exercising all 43 of our facial muscles to boost circulation and curb fine lines and wrinkles without Botox is a refreshing one. “Facial massage should be about routine,” says Rachel Lang, the cofounder of New York’s FaceLove, which quietly opened last fall inside the Greenwich Village outpost of Intelligent Nutrients after a series of pop-ups. Lang, a former global spa educator for Aveda, and her partner, Heidi Frederick, a massage therapist, had a simple goal for the boutique spa concept: to reimagine the long-standing beauty ritual found in Chinese, Japanese, and Indian cultures (and more recently at top-tier aestheticians’ studios) by making it readily available and affordable. Recommended weekly, the sessions…

brian and Michael D’Addario are pop-rock connoisseurs. Raised on a steady diet of Beatles and Bee Gees in the Long Island suburb of Hicksville—one of Brian’s earliest memories is their father teaching him to play “Love Me Do”—the brothers supplemented their musical self-education with classical-guitar lessons, ensemble roles in such Broadway productions as Les Misérables and The Little Mermaid, and an early passion for YouTube. Fluent in everyone from Nirvana to Joan Jett, Lou Reed to MGMT, they could probably write a cultural history but instead are trying their best at making some. At twenty and eighteen, respectively, Brian and Michael perform as The Lemon Twigs, a band that can add a debut album and world tour to its nascent CV. Produced by Foxygen’s Jonathan Rado—“the _rst person that ever…

h enrik Ibsen’s ground-shaking 1879 play A Doll’s House famously ends with “the door slam heard ’round the world,” as its heroine, Nora, walks out on her husband and children to discover who she is. Speculation about what happens next has been the subject of several stage sequels, most notoriously the 1982 musical flop A Doll’s Life, co-written by my own father, who years later told me, “Maybe we should have left perfect enough alone.” This month, the talented young playwright Lucas Hnath (Red Speedo; The Christians) is o!ering his own take with A Doll’s House, Part 2, directed by Sam Gold (Othello) and starring Laurie Metcalf as Nora and Condola Rashad as Emmy, the now-grown daughter she left behind. “It has to do with a woman making a choice for…

WHEN MY GRANDMOTHER developed skin cancer over her right eye and was forced to have her entire eyebrow removed, she would draw, using a bluishgray Maybelline pencil, an eyebrow of her own creation on top of the mottled, baby-pink patch of flesh that remained. It was nothing if not approximate (by this point she was too blind to drive)—more of a concept, a blinking sign that said, !"#$%& $'$(%)* +$%$. I would often watch her smudge on the line before we headed out to Toys “R” Us or the Fashion Bug, and she’d look at me as if to say, “Set? All set!” I was too shy to ask whether I could draw it myself, although despite being a small child, I felt deeply that I could improve the overall…

W hile microblading can fill out brows for perennially groomed, no-pencilnecessary perfection, most of us have slightly asymmetrical faces to begin with: one arch might be a tiny bit higher than the other; one tail may be slightly out of whack. As we age and skin slackens, the brows drop, too, which no amount of plucking can address. Lately, those in the know are turning to their dermatologists first, to optimize eyebrow shape and position before getting inked. “Botox can literally change the position of the brow on your face,” says Whitney Bowe, M.D., a dermatologist with practices in Manhattan and Westchester. “Everything else you do—tweezing, waxing, threading—can shape the brow but won’t move it up or down.” Making these kinds of small adjustments, says Bowe, can add lift—and open…

Gucci earrings, $2,280 Call it animal magnetism: The fiercest pair of Gucci’s new collarbone-grazing clip-ons is this set of feline-head earrings, which slunk into the collection alongside a menagerie of other critters, from bunny rabbits to serpentine dragons, all of them rendered in metallic needlework and diamanté garnishes. Here, multicolored crystals of light topaz and emerald conjure whiskered kittens with eyes of glittering blue. Couple these featherweight bijoux with a Little Edie–style head wrap (as Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele did recently on the runway) for an eccentric and embellished take on a familiar fashion standby: the cool cat.…