Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2024 i Trail

In a not entirely unusual turn of events, it’s hammering it down in Glen Coe. The sort of rain that’s bouncing so hard off the tarmac that as much seems to be coming up as is coming down. It’s windy too. Every so often a strong gust will catch the drops and whisk them off their downward or upward trajectory and hurl them sideways instead. It’s been doing it all day, so walking in the hills has been off the cards since breakfast. Instead, we’ve explored the gear and gift shops of Fort William high street, restocked supplies from Ballachulish Co-op and, having walked the gauntlet of pinball raindrops along the lane from the Red Squirrel campsite to the Clachaig Inn, are currently huddled in the Boots Bar, waterproofs steaming…

■ Most indispensable bit of kit? “My knife. You can use it to make clothes, chop kindling, forage food, build a shelter… I forged a knife in fire in Orkney, and kept it on me all the time.” ■ How many boots did you get through? “No idea! I went through loads at the start as the majority were hand-me-downs that were pretty much on their way out anyway. It was only in the Outer Hebrides that I got my first ever decent pair of boots and they lasted me until Shetland, so – a lot!” ■ Best meal? “I remember walking through Shetland over Christmas and New Year. It was brutally cold and hailing, and I could smell all the roast dinners being cooked but all I had was…

Touching the Void by Joe Simpson The near unbelievable true story of when Joe Simpson broke his leg in a crevasse on 6344m Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes with no food, fuel or water and bad weather closing in. Annapurna by Maurice Herzog An account of the first ascent of an 8000m peak and a tale that has inspired mountaineers worldwide. Ed Viesturs credits it with sparking the fire that sent him up all 14 of the 8000ers. Summit Fever: The Story of an Armchair Climber by Andrew Greig One night, in the legendary Clachaig bar in Glen Coe, poet Andrew Greig is invited on an expedition up the Muztagh Tower in the Karakoram. Greig isn’t a climber and doesn’t have a head for heights, but does have a…

■ SOFT SHELL OUTER The wind-resistant Pertex Quantum Air outer fabric has been given a DWR treatment (fluorocarbon-free, naturally) to boost its weather-shedding abilities. But this fabric is also highly breathable, ensuring the Vapour-Rise summit is able to protect you from the elements as well as keeping you comfortable on the steep, tough ascents. ■ COSY INNER On the inside the Vapour-Rise features the proprietary VR Warm lining. The fleecy, furry, almost feathery lining (like a plush teddy bear turned inside out) does a great job of trapping body heat while remaining as breathable as the outer shell. It also actively moves moisture away from the wearer – another key feature to keep you comfortable when working hard. ■ WINTER FEATURES The Summit is the most winterready of the Vapour-Rise…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 1 Cumbria MOORLAND & LIMESTONE SCENERY Wild Boar Fell stands like a barrier between the rolling Howgills and the wild moors above the Yorkshire Dales. It always sounds a little special and this exhilarating walk takes in the full extent of its high plateau and long escarpment edges, finishing very close to the Fat Lamb Country Inn. Seen from the south, the broad summit could almost be mistaken for Ingleborough, but from the north a prominent ‘nose’, known as The Nab, looks like the sort of pointy peak a child would draw at primary school. Up here, many decades ago, a row of tall cairns was erected above the deep gulch of the Mallerstang valley. No-one seems to know who built them but, as dusk descends, they might easily…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 4 Eryri (Snowdonia) CLASSIC HILLWALK There are few things in life more pleasurable than coming down from a mountain and straight into a country pub. Footsore and weary, the anticipation of that first sip keeps you going until, at long last, you take the weight off your feet, feel the rush of endorphins and contemplate another great day in the hills. During ‘the season’ however, you needn’t wait until the end of this walk to slake your thirst… As a British mountain, Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) is unique, and being able to buy a celebratory beer after the rigours of ascent – at its summit café – is one of its more agreeable idiosyncrasies! Getting away from it all has long been an unlikely scenario on the Pyg, Miner’s and…

16 SK244577 From The Hollybush Inn, cross the road to a track leading uphill. Pass through the gate and continue up past a quarry. At the path junction, continue straight through several fields. After the path junction, descend the track to the road. Turn right to a T-junction and right again on the road. Continue to a gate on the left. 17 SK229551 Continue through the gate and uphill over a mound before descending to a track. Follow the track to the road bend. Continue downhill to the T-junction. Cross over to a gate and follow the stony track until it veers right after 450m. Leave it to continue ahead downhill, passing a church before the road. 18 SK203544 Crossover and continue for 100m to the signpost on the right.…

1 NY237212 There’s parking at the village hall just south of Stair’s crossroads. From that crossroads, cross Newlands Beck on the lane that rises to the base of Rowling End. Turn sharp right, down to just before a stream bridge, then turn left, up a well made path. It heads straight up south-west. As it bends right a much fainter path continues up ahead onto the north-east spur of Rowling End, then heads straight up it. 2 NY229207 Head west along the broad ridgeline, to the steep pyramid of Causey Pike. A path heads up the spurline, which becomes rocky at the top. Scramble up, zigzagging on bits of path, to the sudden arrival on Causey Pike's short summit ridge. The path then leads west along the ridge, with big…

WILD SLEEPS THIS MONTH Askival Cross Fell The Cheviot Ben More Ben Alder TRAIL 100 BIVVY COUNT 70/100 We must accept finite disappointment, but never lose infinite hope. No matter how many times I go camping it is the hope for a golden sunset, a Brocken spectre, magnificent cloud inversion or to witness one of the other magical wonders you only see from the top of a mountain that gets me motivated. But it doesn’t always turn out that way. Plenty of bog and fog I start this month in a place I’ve never been before, The Cheviots. It’s a lovely change for a secluded camp on a hazy day, with rolling hills, views of the North Sea and plenty of bog. The summit trig keeps sinking, so every few…

Blencathra Lake District “Here’s a photo from a chilly sunrise hike up to Blencathra, when I caught the gorgeous morning colours over Sharp Edge.” Hannah Blundell Beinn a' Chrulaiste West Highlands “Our dog Kai loves the hills – they’re his big playground. When he sees the tent or the climbing bag being packed he knows he is off for an adventure. He certainly isn’t an indoors dog, and we couldn’t imagine being on the hills without him.” Brian Welsh Lingmoor Fell Lake District “We were thrilled for our Westie Gryff (furthest right) to tick off his 100th Wainwright – quite an achievement for his little legs! We have a photo of him on every summit thus far, but getting the family together on Lingmoor Fell for his 100th has been…

There are two main kinds of mountaineering: alpine style, and expedition style. Expedition style (also sometimes known as ‘siege style’) utilises fixed camps and ropes, and porters to create an established ascent line which will be travelled up and down several times until acclimatisation and conditions permit a push for the summit. Traditionally, this is how highaltitude peaks are climbed, and it was how Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay summited Everest. Conversely, alpine style tends to involve smaller teams or solo climbers who will be more lightly equipped and will carry all their own gear, allowing them to be nimbler and more adaptable in their approach. Although it has its origins with climbers in the Alps, alpine style has been used to make fast ascents of some of the…

What is a bothy? They are typically small buildings with minimal furnishings, sometimes a fireplace or stove and a sleeping platform. Otherwise, nothing is provided. Everyone must carry in their own fuel, sleeping bags, food etc, and make their own provision for drinking water. Rubbish needs to be carried back out as there is no rubbish collection. A few bothies have a toilet, but the vast majority don’t. There is usually a spade provided for burying human waste. Bothies are for those who travel in ones and twos, not groups. Always follow the Bothy Code: mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/bothy-code/…

CREATE AN ADVENTUREPACKED DAY: To raise money for charity one year, my two lads aged 9 and 7 did this. They managed orienteering, mountain biking, abseiling, cycling, indoor climbing, and some bouldering – all within the short hours of a mid-winter’s day, and all within the city limits of Sheffield. Really, really good day RUN A MARATHON, AT ONE MILE EVERY HOUR: This is inspired! Search YouTube for this guy who runs round his block (one mile once an hour), and in-between ticks off a load of jobs on his to-do list. I reckon this is far harder than it first looks. PLAN A LONG WALK HOME: Walking home is psychologically really powerful. Decide a distance (50km, 80km, 100km?) and then plot a route from a railway station or bus…

Paramo Velez Adventure Smock £280 Unlike a typical waterproof hard shell jacket, this is neither a hard shell nor a jacket. Is it waterproof? Yes, but not in the traditional sense that you might expect a waterproof to be waterproof. But here’s the key thing – will it keep you warm and dry? Absolutely. Salewa Wildfire Edge Mid GTX £200 Is this a boot or a shoe? Neither. It’s a mid, which is like a shoe, only with a higher ankle. Like a boot. But this isn’t even a typical mid. It’s got a sock-like gaiter built in. So it offers the nimbleness of a shoe, with some (although not quite all) of the protection of a boot, with a dash of sock/gaiter thrown in. Glad we cleared that one…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 2 Northern Highlands REMOTE MUNRO SUMMIT Maybe the Munros are getting a bit too busy? Well, Ben Klibreck is miles away in the far north, but without the glamour of being the northestof-all (that’s Ben Hope). It’s a hill that hardly anybody goes up more than once. And when they do, it’s by the quickest possible route, straight up the steep side past Loch nan Uan. Bag it quick, then hop up the road and bag Ben Hope – that’s the attitude if the Munros are a dreary task to get done as quick as you can and spend the rest of your life on the sofa. Which means that the longer, better route along the ridgeline is even less busy than the ‘almost nobody about’ that it would…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 5 Highlands EASY HALF-DAY HILLWALK Pitlochry is an ideal hillwalking base, with plenty of restaurants and accommodation, as well as a good selection of outdoor shops. Ben Vrackie lies to the north of the small hamlet of Moulin, which is an extension of Pitlochry itself. It’s a standalone hill which means you can get some great views from the top. This Corbett makes a great introduction to some fantastic walking in the area. With good paths and clear waymarkers, the route up to the summit is an enjoyable walk that is suitable for many. The walk is one of contrast, starting in a peaceful mixed woodland setting but soon changing into a rugged moorland with some great views. You might be lucky and spot a red squirrel in the…

1 SK150828 From Ye Olde Nags Head, follow the road to a narrow alleyway signposted Limestone Way – this is the first sign on the trail. 20m up that track, head through a wooden gate also signposted with Limestone Way. Begin the rocky ascent, the steepest part of the day. It’s a gradual rocky incline – look out for a little griddled cave entrance to your right. Continue ahead to another gate before it plateaus at a path junction. Continue across some flat grassland until an obvious crossroads. 2 SK135813 Continue straight ahead, keeping a stone wall to your right. Along this route, you can bag a trig point that sits about 50m off the path to the east. It’s worth a visit. as there is a cute little seat…

1 NY149214 From the car park south of Brackenthwaite, take a small earth track upstream to left of River Cocker. Ignore tracks forking up left, to reach the corner of Crummock Water. A rough path continues along the lake shore, until it turns up beside a wall to the valley road just above. 2 NY162194 Cross diagonally right to contour above an informal car park to find a green track. This bends left into the foot of Rannerdale, with a footbridge down right. Across this turn right, around the base of Rannerdale Knotts, to the road. At once a signed path slants up on the left. It wanders uphill, with one steep section of pitched path, to Rannerdale Knotts summit. 3 NY167182 Head down the wide, gentle ridge, to a…

THE THREE PEAKS IN WINTER There’s something special about walking across a high mountain, heading for its summit, with your boots leaving prints in the snow. And more people have probably experienced this on Ben Nevis than on any other British peak. Part of that is due to the popularity of the mountain, but the main reason is that Ben Nevis’s lofty top can hold snow almost all year round. Even summit seekers climbing the peak in May or June with no intention of indulging in anything vaguely wintery can find themselves leaving their own prints in the remnants of Ben Nevis’s snow. If a mountain can hold snow into the start of the British summer, what can winter hold in store? The truth is that in the depths of…

I have an obscure interest in the literature of WWI. One of my favourite authors, a chap called Max Ploughman, a serving officer, then a committed pacifist, once said this simple truth: “You cannot shoot the stars”. This I’ve always taken to mean that they are the one thing we can’t mess up – ie the stuff that’s too far away. With that thought in mind, this month’s theme is the winter night sky, as winter is the best time to see a spectacular display of stars at their brightest. Firstly, you won’t read here about the moon or the Northern Lights, as I’ve already covered them in previous articles. So stars – what are they? Good question, not sure the answer is really going to help, but here goes……

It would be remiss of us not to offer a word of caution and advice regarding the northward retreat from Pen y Fan. While the long, gradually descending spur of Cefn Cwm Llwch is for the most part a hands-inpockets stroll, the initial drop from the summit is steep, rocky and, because it’s north facing, often caked in ice. Even if you’ve had no use of them previously, don’t be reluctant to strap on your crampons for this short step, and keep your ice axe close to hand.…

■ MBA is a registered charity and maintains 103 bothies and 2 emergency mountain shelters. ■ 84 are in Scotland, 12 in England and 9 in Wales. ■ MBA only owns two of the bothies (Over Phawhope and Glenpean); the other buildings are maintained with the agreement of owners. ■ In 1991 the MBA founders were presented with British Empire Medals for service to outdoor recreation, and in 2015 received The Queen’s Award for Voluntary Service to recognise outstanding work in the community. To get involved, or for a list of all MBA bothies, go to mountainbothies.org.uk See page 114 for more details on how to walk to Tunskeen Bothy.…

■ ADVICE FROM MOUNTAIN RESCUE “When you’re in the mountains in snow – or wintery rain – carry as many pairs of gloves as you have. They’ll all end up wet, and once they’re wet they’re cold. I once suffered superficial frostbite while overseas, so I am extra careful about my hands in winter conditions and no number of pairs of gloves is too many.” Ashley Rubens, Dartmoor Search and Rescue Ashburton dsrtashburton.org.uk ■ DEW POINT: The point at which visible droplets form. ■ CALORIEPACKED SNACK CADBURY’S HOT CHOCOLATE MADE WITH FULL FAT MILK: 513kcal per 500ml (about a flask) ■ ASK AN ANIMAL SNOW BUNTING Plectrophenax nivalis Q: You’re tiny, so how do you survive on the Cairngorm plateau all winter? A: A thick layer of downy feathers keeps us…

Versatile layer Inov-8 Performance Hybrid Jacket £175 When it comes to staying comfortable and dry in the hills, layering is key – but the array of choice for everything between your base layer and a waterproof shell means that choosing the right layers can be a bit bewildering. Is it a mid layer, or can it be worn as an outer layer? Is it a soft shell, a fleece, or an insulating jacket? The reality is, the lines are blurred and there’s a different layer for every eventuality! The key is choosing versatile ones to mix and match. This offering from Inov-8 is called a jacket, but in the cooler months falls perfectly into the mid layer category for hillwalkers. First of all, it’s super comfy and light (just 315g…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 3 Lake District HIGH-LEVEL WALK Guidebook writer Alfred Wainwright wrote that “on a first visit to Patterdale, Place Fell should be an early objective.” And of those who have climbed it, few would disagree with him. Place Fell is not the loftiest peak that Patterdale has to offer but it is certainly one of the best viewpoints. The fell rises 656m, and as well as the main summit there is plenty of rough ground for the curious to explore. This energetic route starts at the Patterdale Hotel, with its aptly named ‘Place Fell Inn’ where you can enjoy a meal and a drink after your long day out. From Patterdale the route climbs steeply to Boredale Hause and then continues to the summit trig point of Place Fell. It…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 6 Brecon Beacons DOUBLE RIDGE WALK This route takes in two ridges on either side of the beautiful Vale of Ewyas in the Black Mountains, the most eastern area of the Brecon Beacons. Starting at the impressive Llanthony Priory, the walk climbs up to Offa’s Dyke, the boundary between England and Wales built by King Offa to keep the Welsh out of his kingdom. There is a vast panorama to the east over the Olchon Valley to the undulating landscape towards Hereford. The descent to Capel-y-ffin brings you to the diminutive church of St Mary the Virgin, before another ascent to the ridge. The lofty 600m high ridge, part of the Cambrian Way, affords more aerial views of the Priory in the classic glacial U-shaped valley below. The plaque…

8 SK150666 Starting at the Bulls Head, follow the road south to a farm on the left. Take the Limestone Way signed track. Continue the gradual incline to a narrow pass through a stone wall. As you cross the field, keep left at the path junction. At the farm, look out for lots of wildlife. 9 SK168653 Veer left towards a black barn, keeping the farmhouse on your right. The descent into the valley is quite stepped. Turn right at the sign and follow up the steep steps the other side. It continues to ascend more gradually across open land, through a small woodland. Continue until you reach the road. Turn left and follow to a split where you keep right. Follow the footpath next to the car park to…

1 NY206244 On the south side of the Whinlatter Pass road, opposite the visitor centre entrance, take a wide gravel path through the plantations to meet a forest track. Turn right, then right again, to the track (Sustrans coast to coast bike route) along the foot of Hobcarton Plantation. After 1.2km fork right, down to a small car park (alternative start point) and the Whinlatter Pass road. 2 NY191245 Turn left for 1km, then fork down left on a smaller road. After Blaze Bridge the road rises to a junction. On the left here take a ladder stile, with footpath signpost unhelpfully marked ‘no through route’. Follow a faint tractor track with wall on its left up to a gate on the left and a clearer track. This contours back…

CLIMB A STAR OF THIS ISSUE P36 It’s rough, it’s wild, it’s the perfect place for a bothy adventure. Here’s all you need to know about an overnighter in Galloway. WALK TO TUNSKEEN There are a few different ways to get to Tunskeen. The easiest is along a fairly level forest track from the parking point at NX413956, just before the road is blocked by big boulders. Follow the track heading north-east, then turning right onto the Forest Drive. Keep right at a junction heading roughly south all the way to NX424916 to join a narrower path to the bothy. When exploring, do not underestimate how rough and wild walking is in Galloway. Paths are in short supply away from the main routes, and progress can be slow and tiring.…