Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2019 i Trail

Back in the 1990s, anoraks were cool. Well, at least some people thought so. Haglöfs’ Grym Evo has a touch of the anorak about it, and the retro design includes pocket flaps – something we seriously never thought we’d see again. The Grym, a Swedish word that can mean either ‘cruel’ or ‘cool’ (as in “that jacket is well grym!”) has been created for wilderness trekking – the hood has a RECCO reflector in the brim to help rescuers find you in an emergency. The durable, water-repellent coating is fluorocarbon-free, and as of autumn the Grym Evo will be Bluesign approved. Now that's cool – or should we say ‘grym’? haglofs.com…

Craig Bailey-Rigby +551m “Baxter and I enjoyed our first walk up Mam Tor, and with amazing weather it was soon followed up with a trip to a beer garden! That’s 551m of ascent knocked off,” says Craig. Aiden Redfearn- Ward +200m “This is our three-year-old Aiden, nailing the SWCP from Durdle Door to Lulworth Cove and back again with his new rucksack!” says mum Charlotte. “Camping and hiking: the best way to spend Mother’s Day! Here’s to a few more metres towards Everest...” Gavin Mascall +899m Gavin says: “A nice little amble with my wife Susan the other day for the sunset, 899m added to our ascent – taking us 221m into our second Everest. A great way to spend a Monday evening.” Michael Casey +739m “Battled 75mph winds, hailstones…

Isolated deep in the south-west Pacific, with a wild landscape home to mountains, volcanoes, glaciers, fiords and forests, New Zealand is one of the world’s most cherished hiking destinations. It’s a country defined as much by its changeable weather as its emblematic kiwi bird, with subtropical summers in the far north and bitter winters in the alpine regions of the south, creating a kaleidoscopic climate with ever-changing mountain conditions. Despite being more than 11,000 miles from Britain, New Zealand is more popular than ever with hillwalkers searching for foreign landscapes and faraway lands to explore. So we tracked down Jack Austin, an exiled Brit and passionate hiker who’s made New Zealand his home, to see what all the fuss is about. 5 REGIONS YOU HAVE TO HIKE Coming from…

Q I get really bad hay fever in summer, and if there’s a high pollen count it’s sometimes enough to put me off hillwalking. Are there any ways I can reduce its impact on me? Janet Parker-Knoll, Chester Max says: UK pollen season can be split into three main sections – tree pollen from late March to mid-May, grass pollen from mid-May to July, and weed pollen from the end of June to September. One in five people in the UK are believed to suffer from hay fever, and unfortunately there’s no cure and it’s unpreventable. The problem with pollen is it’s microscopic and so essentially invisible. Everyone can tolerate a certain amount without reaction, but once this level is exceeded – known as your ‘trigger’ level – then an…

I have always loved to cook. Growing up I helped my grandmother in the kitchen, and experimented with ingredients and techniques to recreate recipes I’d seen on TV. I’ve never trained or followed a career in the culinary world, but cooking is something I’m passionate about. When a love for the outdoors was ignited after relocating to the Lake District, it seemed only natural to merge the two passions. If you’re a keen wild camper, the foods you’re most likely accustomed to are meals of the pre-packed, dehydrated variety. Yet, for one-night camps, a more elaborate outdoor cook can bring real joy and heighten the experience of being at one with nature. To kick you off, here are four mouth-watering al fresco recipes which can be knocked up with relative…

VIVOBAREFOOT TRACKER £190 Completely at the other end of the scale to Hoka One One’s technology is this minimalist boot from VivoBarefoot. Still designed for rough terrain with durable leather, a sticky lugged sole, a waterproof membrane and thermal protection, they are ultra-light and mega flexible. A totally different experience based on… well, the bare-foot experience and the natural mechanics of the human foot. vivobarefoot.com SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER MID GTX £195 Technology from the climbing world has been used to create a boot that closes the gap between walking and climbing footwear, perfect for scrambling terrain and via feratta. It’s waterproof and has good flexibility in the ankle for the walk-in, while the sole has good lateral stiffness for movement over technical rock. A rubber rand…

■ Internal dimensions (LxWxH) 220x93x95cm ■ Packed size 14x30cm ■ Weight 1096g IT'S GOOD This is the latest version of the renowned Laser Competition series of tents, with the addition of shorter poles for 2019 to bring down the overall length of the tent when packed to just 30cm. Combine its packed size with a weight of around 1kg and this, on paper, is the ideal tent for lightweight backpacking. The tent is pitched outer first, with one pole being fitted across the centre and two shorter vertical poles at each end. Once erected it is reasonably stable. The outer door is secured open with an unusual hook and loop design, but this works very well and actually results in a neater door when opened than many others that tend…

8 km/ 5 miles 5-7 hours It would be difficult to find a better mountain walk or scramble than the classic Snowdon Horseshoe – it really does have everything. But its perfection draws the crowds and sometimes detracts from the real mountain experience. The mountain’s north ridge, however, is a very different beast, with some improvised gully scrambling, an alternative knife-edge ridge and a seldom-trod descent ridge that would be a classic in its own right anywhere else. On paper, this doesn’t look like a big day out. But the approach to the north ridge is steep and trackless, and will almost certainly take longer than you’d imagine. The descent via the Gyrn Las ridge is awkward in places too. Choose a good day and allow plenty of time, and…

Fingers crossed for beautiful summer weather for this classic Highland walk on its roller coaster of rough and rocky mountain tops. But you’ll also want a fair amount of prior rainfall to feed the impressive An Steall waterfall on a route that features (blink and you’ll miss it!) in the fourth Harry Potter movie, when our hero fights the dragon. Do this walk in mid-September and you may be surprised to see people running – yes, running – along these precipitous summits as part of the Ring of Steall Skyrace, a 29km route from Kinlochleven with 1000m more climbing than this one. The wonderful thing about the Ring of Steall horseshoe is not only the stupendous view (on a clear day you can see all the way to Ben Nevis…

With its rugged coastline, sealife, chasms and castles, rolling green mountainside, trams, giant waterwheels and burial mounds, the Isle of Man is a fantastic little island that you can really get to know in a very short space of time. So long as you avoid the famous TT motorcycle races in late May and early June, you’re spoilt for choice with tranquil pockets of coast and mountain surrounded by a deep blue see. On a clear day you can see all the way to the Mourne Mountains in Ireland and the English Lake District. The first walk makes use of the Manx Electric Railway and climbs the Isle of Man’s highest mountain, Snaefell. The next explores a section of the wild and rocky west coast. And, finally, is a glorious…

15.1 km/ 9¼ miles 4 hours 1 SC197689 If you’re feeling tired you can get the steam train to Port St Mary but it’s only a couple of kilometres along the A5, turning right out of the station and walking along Station Road to the roundabout, then straight on to the beach at Rhenwyllan. 2 SC215687 Here turn sharp right on the A31. After 250m turn left on the Raad ny Foillan coast path round Gansey Point to Port St Mary. Here you meet a road; Living Hope Community Church is opposite. 3 SC208680 Turn left on the road, pass St Mary’s Church and follow the road to Kallow Point where you take up the Raad ny Foillan coast path once more to skirt the impressive cliff tops above Perwick…

12km DISTANCE 735m ASCENT 4-5hrs ON THE HILL WHERE DO I START? The 400-year-old National Trust Cross Keys Temperance Inn. There’s a lay-by to park in beside the A683 road at grid reference SD698969 . WHAT TERRAIN CAN I EXPECT? The Howgills are generally very rounded and unthreatening, with a mixture of valley paths, steep grass paths, bogs, grassy slopes, broad high mountain ridges, streamside paths, and mountain stream crossings. HOW HARD IS THE WALK? Technically not difficult at all, but the Howgills are fair-sized hills that get their fair share of rough weather. You need decent fitness, the ability to navigate in poor visibility on featureless tops, and the right gear to combat everything from rain, snow and wind to scorching sunshine in high summer. WHAT’S THE BEST MAP?…

Popularity comes easy to Helvellyn, like one of those effortlessly cool kids at school who was born with the good luck gene. For starters, it’s one of just four mountains in England that break the 3,000ft barrier, and is blessed with not one but two thrillingly spectacular ridge approaches to its summit. It has a powerful name, a fascinating history, soaring crags, a hidden glacial lake, huge sunrises and sunsets, and trig point views stretching into every corner of the Lake District. The drawback to all that finery comes in the crowds that flock to Helvellyn’s slopes, making it one of Britain’s most climbed peaks. This isn’t a place to seek solitude, but somewhere to be embraced for what it is: a big, brilliant mountain, that revels smugly in its…

Official Everest Anywhere partner Asolo is giving away two pairs of its best-selling Greenwood GV hiking boots worth £200! Designed for comfort over rugged terrain, they’re the perfect boots for #EverestAnywhere challengers: • Cushioned Lycra inserts improve ankle articulation and comfort • Durable 2.4mm Perwanger leather and Gore-Tex Performance waterproofing lining • Dual-density EVA cushioning • Vibram Megagrip sole HOW TO ENTER: Go to lfto.com/asolocompetition Men’s and women’s colours available. Competition closes 17 June 2019.…

Across Britain, litter is on the increase. This growing problem comes at an eye-watering cost of around £1bn per year to deal with – a sum that is digested by the taxpayer. But the most pertinent cost, perhaps, is the one to the environment. And unfortunately, the pristine, fragile landscapes of our hill and mountain regions are far from immune. Thousands of bags full of rubbish are being carried off British mountains every year. A volunteer-run litter sweep on Snowdon – the highest peak in Wales and England – recently collected over 400 discarded plastic bottles; while a similar initiative north of the border on Ben Nevis that concentrated on retrieving chewing gum filled a bag weighing 4kg. Mountain litter has become an alarming concern, so Trail spoke to four…

Q What are the most effective techniques and tips for walking down a scree slope? Gareth Mallet, Dundee Ben says: Scree is essentially a sloping pile of loose rocks, barely held together by friction and facing a constant battle against gravity, so it should come as no surprise that it’s potentially dangerous terrain to walk down. Dislodged rocks tumbling away below your feet or crashing down from above are a real risk, so where possible, scree slopes are best avoided. However, sometimes they’re a necessary part of a route. Where the angle is relatively gentle, the rocks reasonably small and the depth of the scree fairly shallow, the biggest risk is usually your feet going out from under you and landing on your derrière. Here’s how to descend scree in…

The waterproof, breathable, Hydri-Fuse moisture-wicking bootie lining wicks away moisture and provides a comfortable feel, keeping feet warm and dry. 25% OFF DISCOVER SHOES The Vibram RollinGait sole unit curves along the foot to generate maximum movement and impact. It’s a hit among mountain hikers and Nordic walkers, adding more bounce and comfort to their step. Lightweight fused overlays protect the toes and reinforce stress points, keeping your feet comfortable throughout any activity. Available in Charcoal/Black and Black/Burst in sizes 3-13, and in Fuschia/Mint (pictured) in sizes 3-8. For more about the Discover, see grubswarehouse.com/ product-page/discover EXCLUSIVE OFFER Grubs is offering Trail readers an exclusive 25% discount on a pair of Discover shoes. Simply use the code TRAIL25 at the checkout at grubswarehouse.com The code is valid until 30 September…

Nestled among the hummocks and hollows of the fell, no sounds managed to stir me until my pre-dawn alarm sounded; at which point I opened the tent door, peered out, and saw the early morning glow of orange light rising beyond the horizon. Who said you can’t get a wilderness experience in the Lake District over a bank holiday? It’s hard to imagine a finer way to spend a weekend than packing some lightweight camping equipment and heading into remote mountain terrain. One-person backpacking tents are small enough to tuck into the tiniest of corners between crags and fit onto the shortest patches of level ground between knobs and knolls. With some weighing less than 1kg and others having enough space to stretch out or even to star gaze, these…

Built to withstand the wildest of mountain weather, but is this enough to justify the price? ■ Internal dimensions (LxWxH) 220x90x90cm ■ Packed size 16x43cm ■ Weight 1750g IT'S GOOD Far more robust than other tents, the Akto is the sort of tent you buy if you want it to protect you no matter what the weather. Designed as an all-season tent, the flysheet extends to the ground to lock out wind, rain and snow, while its zips and fittings are chunkier than others. Pitching is easy, as the four corner vertical poles are in-situ, leaving just one pole to be fitted, and the design is outer-pitched first with just four pegs required for a basic set-up. Once up this is a very stable structure, with a larger porch than…

Welcome to Trail’s routes section: your cut-out-and-keep guide to the best days in the UK hills. To celebrate the long days of late spring, this month we’re focusing on the finest mountain horseshoe walks... written by experts, walked by you. TRAIL ROUTES use OS mapping and gradient profiles, and are available to download at www.lfto.com/routes WALK HERE THIS WEEKEND High on Fairfield, St Sunday Crag catching the last of the sun p95…

21.4 km/ 13¼ miles 8-9 hours Wainwright-baggers almost universally love the Kentmere Horseshoe, or Kentmere Round as it is sometimes known. It is their chance to bag nine Wainwrights during a long day of efficient peak-bagging – and, if Sour Howes and Sallows are added into the mix, a whopping 11 tops can be nabbed in one outing. The Kentmere Horseshoe has given many Wainwright enthusiasts a big boost towards the magic 214 total. But it would be wrong to suggest this route is only for box-tickers. It is one of the Lake District’s classic horseshoe walks – and rightfully so. It might lack the drama or majesty of others, such as Newlands or Mosedale, but the Kentmere Horseshoe is still a must-do for lovers of Lakeland. Starting in the…

17 km/ 10½ miles 8 hours If Ben Nevis has always seemed just a little bit small to you, not to mention somewhat on the busy side, you need to head 30 miles west to its Moidart neighbour, Rois-Bheinn. Okay, so Ordnance Survey hasn’t made a big mistake, and Rois-Bheinn isn’t technically taller. But when you combine an ascent of it with its fellow peaks An Stac and Sgurr na Ba Glaise, a nice day out in the hills suddenly becomes a 5000ft-plus adventure. With 1600m of ascent, taking in three Corbetts, this circular route is a fantastic full day out. Dramatic drops, rocky, sometimes exposed, ridges and incredible sea views over a demanding distance make it a challenge worth taking. Starting almost at sea-level in Lochailort, the route climbs…

The homely market square in the ancient village of Longnor is flanked by brooding gritstone moors to the north and softer limestone country to the south. And this is where Staffordshire meets Derbyshire; if you are here for a few days you’ll soon find yourself striding between the two counties. Many folk think the Peak District National Park is entirely within the confines of Derbyshire, but a weekend in and around Longnor will make you fully appreciate the scenic side of Staffs. The splendours of Lathkill Dale aren’t far away, while the nearby tops of High Wheeldon, Carder Low and Hollins Hill can be ticked off in long, meandering circuits that take in the clear-flowing headwaters of the Manifold and the Dove. So, this way for Peak pleasure! TRANSPORT Nearest…

18.5 km/ 11½ miles 6 hours 1 SK150665 From Monyash, walk east along the B5055 for 750m and take the path on the right. Head down the grassy valley to a small gate, followed by a stone squeeze stile at the entrance to a rocky canyon, with scree slopes and overhanging rocks. Follow the narrow path through the boulders until the gorge opens into the steep-sided basin below the junction with Ricklow Dale. Look out for a cave on the right from where (depending on the time of year) water emerges from the rock, and admire the steep slopes of unimproved limestone grassland – these are carpeted in orchids and cowslips in springtime. 2 SK165660 Continue ahead, with Cales Dale on the right, through a gate and over a step…

VIEW WITH A ROOM You don’t even have to get off your backside for a view of the Black Cuillin mountains from Allt Slapin holiday cottage on the Isle of Skye. It’s an incredible base for your Skye adventures (see page 32), right on the shores of Loch Slapin in Torrin. ihcottages.com MOUNTAIN GRUB Ben Nevis base camp, Fort William, isn’t famous for its culinary delights, but we’re raving about the gorgeously cosy Garrison West Pub (not to be confused with the Garrison Hotel) that serves delish meals including veggie ‘Neeps and Tatties’. garrisonwest.co.uk WATCH IT! The Dawn Wall, Netflix Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson’s epic ascent of an iconic Yosemite wall. SOCIAL MEDIA BUZZ... Trail’s Mountains for the Mind Facebook group is a community of thousands of people sharing…

I’m in my happy place. On my hands and knees on the floor, peering at a whole unfolded sheet of mappy gloriousness. The Lake District from the vantage point of an eagle, or an orbiting satellite, or the Divine. It’s on top of a bunch of other maps. Some Harvey, some Ordnance Survey. Some 1:40,000, some 1:25,000. And it’s next to my laptop, with 15 different tabs open with route suggestions, and weather forecasts from the Met Office and MWIS (the Mountain Weather Information Service). I’m in my happy place. Sometimes it’s great to bag a ‘let’s-justsee-where-we-end-up’ day. But tomorrow I’m off up BABY’S FIRST MOUNTAIN. So this is being planned and re-planned to within an inch of its life. The baby, of course, has no idea what’s going on.…

Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich West Highlands Bruce Russell from Aberdeen says, “Here’s my wife Clare almost at the top of Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich last October, on a blustery, showery day. I took the photograph; it was my 199th Munro. I liked the image so much, I arranged for a local artist, Cat Walker from Belhelvie near Aberdeen, to paint it for a surprise 10th wedding anniversary present. It’s oil on board, 610x510mm, and it now takes pride of place on our wall.” Styhead Tarn Lake District Sitting pretty near Styhead Tarn before an ascent of Scafell Pike is 8-year-old Laila Davies from County Durham. Laila’s dad, Ben Davies, took the photo. Ras Dashen Ethiopia Striking a pose at 4543m are Justin Grady and Allison Grady from Perivale. Justin told Trail: “On…

The financial crash of 2008 changed Leslie Hanthorne’s life forever. His successful construction business was lost to the recession, leaving him searching for a new profession and a new sense of purpose. Leslie’s natural reaction was to spend more time walking among his local peaks, Northern Ireland’s spectacular Mourne Mountains, with his faithful dog Buddy by his side. In the decade that followed Leslie transformed his life, drawing on his passion for the mountains to forge a new career as a landscape photographer. He’s now one of the stars of The Chronicles of Mourne, a BBC documentary charting a year in the life of Northern Ireland’s highest peaks. Over the following six pages he shares his story with Trail through a mixture of pictures and words, showcasing the Mournes like…

Cat Bells, Lake District This pint-sized (451m) peak near Keswick offers a shapely, rocky summit. The main path is easy to follow from the car park at Hawse End, and the views over Borrowdale, Derwent Water and Skiddaw make every metre worth the effort. Mam Tor, Peak District A total ascent under 100m (depending on where you start) doesn’t mean the ‘Mother Hill’ is in any way lacking. With its Bronze and Iron Age remains plus a smattering of caves and far-reaching views, it’s an unforgettable hike. Yr Eifl, north Wales This 561m triple-topped peak (right) not only offers majestic views down the entire length of the Llyn Peninsula, but also boasts one of the best Iron Age hill-forts in Britain at Tre’r Ceiri. Ben Lomond, The Trossachs At 974m…

Heavy. Brown. Stiff. These are the characteristics I’ve come to associate with a trusty mountain boot. So it was with some scepticism that I tried Hoka One One’s new Sky Kaha walking boot. Heavy, brown and stiff it is not. Hoka One One (pronounced oh-ney oh-ney – Maori for ‘to fly over the earth’) is now the world’s fastest-growing running brand, owing to its revolutionary exaggerated cushioning in the sole. The Kaha has taken the principles of momentum, comfort and cushioning pioneered by its French trail running designers ten years ago, and put them into a boot that is light, bright and flexible. I’d not tried Hoka One One footwear before, and wearing Kahas for the first time I had to reset my expectations of walking boots. They looked different.…

■ Internal dimensions (LxWxH) 223x189x100cm ■ Packed size 14x50cm ■ Weight 1740g IT'S GOOD If you’re looking for a comfortable living space in warm weather, this is an outstanding tent. It pitches inner first, with the three poles crossing at the middle to form a dome shape that allows plenty of headroom. The pitching is very easy too, and once the inner is erected you can easily position it where you want to avoid any lumps on the ground. The fly goes over the top of the inner, and again this is easily achieved with ladder lock webbing buckles allowing easier tensioning. Once pitched it’s very stable and there’s a huge porch down one side, which can be fully opened up if desired. The mesh inner makes this a very…

LIGHTWEIGHT & LOW PRICED LifeStraw Personal Water Filter £20 The LifeStraw allows you to drink directly from a water source – simply place one end in the water and the other in your mouth. Water is drawn up through a 0.2-micron hollow fibre filter rated for 4000 litres to remove protozoa and bacteria. It isn’t effective against viruses though. If you don’t want to drink directly from the source, you could collect water in a bottle and use the filter to drink from that instead. The low weight, small packed size and price make this ideal for lightweight backpacking. • Size 22.9x3x4.5cm • Weight 48g lifestraw.com LIGHTWEIGHT & DUAL ACTION Alpkit Hippo £25 The Hippo can be used at source by attaching the tube to one end and sticking that…

“ From the south it appears as a great horseshoe of grassy slopes below a consistently high skyline... but lacking those dramatic qualities that appeal most to the lover of hills.” So wrote Alfred Wainwright of Fairfield in his Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells . It is funny then that the most popular way to reach Fairfield (and its dramatic scree slope beside Grisedale Tarn) is from the south. Stranger still that so many of the hills on the horseshoe made it into his famous guidebooks. The walk begins in the hustle and bustle of Ambleside. Only a short while from the busy shoppers, you’re out on the open fells. We take on this classic horseshoe clockwise, merrily Wainwright-bagging as we go. This is a nice, average-length horseshoe with…

19 km/ 11¾ miles 6½ hours It may be the ninth-highest peak in Wales, but Yr Elen is arguably the ‘forgotten’ Welsh 3000er. Separated by a steep-sided ridge from Carnedd Llewelyn, the main route across the Carneddau marches by without a visit. Yet if its bigger and better-known neighbour didn’t hog the limelight, Yr Elen would be regarded as a very fine mountain in its own right, with a lovely airy and spiky north-east ridge that is well within most hillwalkers’ capabilities. But by starting this high-level horseshoe route over the Carneddau from the Caseg valley and up Yr Elen, you gain a quiet, rugged wilderness not available on the more popular hills. You’re more likely to see wild ponies than people by the Afon Caseg (‘River of the Mare’).…

24.1 km/ 15 miles 7-8 hours 1 SC241844 Take a quick gander at the impressive Peel Castle and Cathedral Battery, then head south-west up Corrins Hill on the middle path that runs along the crest of this linear hillside. Admire the views across the sea to Ireland from the Tower and trig point at 148m, then descend to meet the famous Raad ny Foillan – a 100-mile coast path that encircles the whole island. Turn left to follow this path, simply keeping the sea on your right, all the way to Glen Maye river. 2 SC225800 At the river, turn left to follow it upstream into woodland to reach the A27 at Glen Maye. Turn right and climb steeply down then up the road and when it switches back to…

20.5 km/ 12¾ miles 8 hours 1 SK088649 Walk west out of Longnor’s cobbled square, cross the B5053 and fork right after 100m along the bridleway lane to Fawside. Continue south-west, through fields and over a footbridge, to reach a minor road. Turn right, cross one of the tributaries of the infant River Manifold and after 1km take the narrow lane on the right, which soon turns left to Marnshaw Head. 2 SK057647 At the end of the tarmac, continue ahead for 100m and take the path on the right to descend north-west into a broad moorland valley. Continue on a network of paths (via Hole Carr, High Ash and Smallshaw Farm) to Sunnydale Farm. Go left here and then fork right after the farm to walk uphill to Wickenlow.…

If the Lake District is the honey pot and the Yorkshire Dales the jam pot, then the Howgill Fells must be the marmalade pot. No less sweet; just not to everybody’s taste. In fact, I would go as far as to say, a superior, more complex, subtle flavour. If you want a sense of oneness with your hills, if you’re sick of the crowds to the west, then the Howgills are for you. Wainwright described these hills as looking like a herd of sleeping elephants, and for once I would have to agree with him (just don’t tell anyone). The grass that covers the full, rounded hillsides does indeed look like the stretched skin of a large animal, forming creases where the numerous cloughs drain the slopes. There are many…