Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2016 i Trail

What colour are mountains? Green, right? Or brown, or grey, or black. Or sometimes, on the horizon, an indefinable blue. Except in August, that is, when a blaze of purple rushes over the lower slopes. First to get its colour out is bog-loving cross-leaved heath, with its rounder, pinker, bell-shaped blooms; then comes bell heather, with its vivid fuchsia flowers; then paler, but abundant ling. For a brief time, heathland is transformed and the view is breathtaking. Smaller hills are entirely carpeted in purple, waves of lilac lapping up against high peaks. Within a week or two, it fades to brown. So make the most of the fading season’s golden light, grab a bivvy bag and your camera, and spend an evening watching summer’s glorious finale. Anywhere hilly is likely…

Remember this name: Moidart. I’d never heard of it before this trip, but I’ll never forget it now. Mostly because I’ll be using it to answer a big pile of mountain-related questions for years to come. Where’s the most surprisingly awesome place you’ve ever visited? Moidart. What’s the best summit you’ve ever stood on? An Stac, Moidart. What’s the best view you’ve ever seen from a mountain? The Isles of Rum and Eigg, from Moidart. Where would you go next time you had a tank full or petrol and a few spare days? Moidart. My mind changes a lot, and admittedly I get a bit giddy whenever I return from a cool new place; but I feel an almost inexplicable draw to Moidart. Hidden around 20 miles to the west…

Get in your car now. Set the satnav for the west Highlands, and start driving. Take your bike if you must, but just get going. The peak that awaits you is 100 per cent worth it. When you hit the road along Glen Etive you’ll know you made the right choice. In fact, it’s hard to not pretend you’re on some mean-machine James Bond-style mission as you drive down it. It’s perfectly easy to understand why Sam Mendes chose it as the backdrop for Bond and M’s retreat to Skyfall in the 2012 film. It is remote and impressive. Today, in place of the sulking mountains in Skyfall, sun now blazed down the glen, the light deep and crisp in the new morning. This had no less impact and the…

Pinnacle Ridge St Sunday Crag Lake District England Another tricky-to-find scramble, this Pinnacle Ridge straddles Grade 2 and Grade 3 scrambling, making it the perfect route for somebody making the step from one to the other. Follow the true line of the arête and you’ll tackle some tightly packed and seriously narrow spikes and steps on the way to the top, some of which begins to feel far more like climbing than scrambling. But the toughest obstacles can be bypassed, bringing the route back into Grade 2 territory. But however you tackle it (although ‘with a rope’ is recommended), the stunning scenery and views over to the Helvellyn massif make it an amazing challenge to take on. Pinnacle Ridge Sgurr nan Gillean Skye Scotland Getting to the top of this…

Ingredients • 3 handfuls of sorrel (you can also use ground ivy or alexanders)• 1 handful of three-cornered leek or a bulb of garlic• 2tbsp red wine vinegar• 6tbsp olive oil• 4 anchovies• black pepper• zest of 1 lemon• 1tbsp of Dijon mustard Method Finely chop herbs, garlic and anchovies. Mix with vinegar, oil, mustard and lemon. Season to taste. Serve with fish, meat, over vegetables or even on toast. And to accompany it? A local ale would be best!…

ORDNANCE SURVEY OSLOCATE APP £FREE This free-to-download app can be used on most smartphones, even when you don't have a signal. It displays your location in latitude and longitude and with grid references so you can use it alongside a paper map to see where you are anywhere in the world. It also includes an on-screen compass with rotating bezel so you can set bearings from your surroundings, though this does require your phone to have a built-in magnetic compass. A neat additional feature is the ‘share’ function, which allows you to send an 'I am here' grid reference via text message, email or Twitter (among others) to keep friends and family up to date with your location. This would be a useful safety tool for groups or lone walkers…

Brunton Pulse 1500 £30 Used by Ben Weeks, increasingly gadget-reliant camper / news & features writer Used for 1 year I’m always slightly suspicious of the claims these sorts of things make. One complete smartphone charge? I don’t think so, Brunton – not when my phone’s battery capacity is 2,300mAh and the Pulse’s is only 1,500mAh. But, that said, this is still a genuinely handy gadget. Compact, light, and with the most useful cables (USB and micro USB) neatly built in, it’s always on hand with that little bit of extra power. On the all-day Roman road trek (see previous issue) I used it on rest stops to keep my GPS watch juiced, meaning I could accurately track the whole 26 mile epic, rather than the two-thirds of it the…

This surprisingly strenuous walk favours streams over summits, and shuns natural wilderness for the desolation of forgotten industry. For lovers of the hills, though, their geology and human history are just as relevant as peak-bagging and idyllic views, and this route illustrates perfectly the contrast between the quintessential Dales meadowland and the bleak mining landscapes of Swaledale’s uplands. The area’s limestone features extensive lead seams – which 19th century miners tunnelled intensively – generating a raft of geological knowledge and a real, tangible history lesson in the abandoned ruins, mine shafts and levels (tunnels), spoil heaps and huge, bare gullies called ‘hushes’. Dams were built then released, scouring off the top soil and exposing lead veins in the bedrock. Many see the unnatural landscape as ‘scarred’. But the sense of…

Tucked away in the north of Scotland, and straddling the lonely Inverness-shire landscapes of Glen Strathfarrar and Glen Orrin, Beinn a’ Bha’ach Ard is a shapely Corbett (Scottish mountain between 2,500 and 2,999 feet), that makes for a fine horseshoe walk. Beinn a’ Bha’ach Ard makes a conspicuous landmark, when spied from the Beauly Firth, and a selection of wonderful views emanate from its slopes. These include the mountainous topography of a remote corner of Scotland, with the big hills of Glen Affric and Strathconon, along with the huge bulk of Ben Wyvis, clearly visible from its broad summit plateau. The superb scenery also extends to the low-lying landscape of the Beauly, Cromarty and Moray Firths. The descent passes little Loch na Beiste, bestowing further exemplary views. With bigger hills…

1 NN316354 There’s limited parking beside the A82; do not attempt to park on the private road to Auch. From the road, walk along the private road to Auch and cross the West Highland Way. The track under the rail viaduct is then followed all the way (north-east) up Auch Gleann. Pass the ruined cottage at Ais-an t-Sidhean and continue for 700m to fork in path. 2 NN357396 Leave the track where it splits and head north up the steep slope. There are no paths as such, and to ease the gradient it’s worth taking a zigzag line. It is a bit of a slog, but with persistence you’ll eventually be delivered to the top of Beinn a’ Chùin. Once on the summit, the fine glimpses of the range of…

1 NY186087 Leaving Wasdale Head, cross the stone arch packhorse bridge and follow the path north-west along Mosedale Beck. At a sheepfold, ignore the path that curves left up the hillside. Instead, follow the wall by the side of the beck to a junction where the wall splits into two and meets Black Beck, the first stream that tumbles from Red Pike (note: on Landranger maps Black Beck is incorrectly marked as a second stream just north of here). 2 NY179102 Scramble Follow the beck upwards on its right-hand side. The higher you go on this route the more scrambling there will be to improvise on whichever blocks and outcrops you wish. There are plenty of opportunities for entry-level scrambles here, but, equally, some of the formations may tempt you…

As young students who could have easily lost their way while growing up, we had the fortune of meeting an inspiring teacher – Mr Bereit. He has a massive passion for nature and mountaineering, and has taught us to go out there and explore this beautiful world, with all the mountains and hills it has to offer. We would appreciate if you could give him a shout-out. He is a subscriber to Trail and has had his own quotes published in previous issues. We feel this would be a great way to show how grateful we are for everything he has taught us. It would mean a lot to both him and us! The magazine is always great, and thank you for the awesome job done on it. Emily Wilson…

Anne Setright and I [above] were the ‘7 Summits’ winners of a Montane rucksack in the May issue of Trail , with a photo on top of our first challenge peak, Beinn Dorain. However, shortly after we did Beinn Dorain I broke my ankle (after a sensational day on Helvellyn, I fell over in the field next to the road!), which put a stop to our challenge for a while. We have just got started again. Luckily, one of our ‘summits’ was Leith Hill, selected among many loftier peaks just because at just 294m/965ft it is the highest point in Anne’s home county of Surrey. This was a bit of luck for us, because it provided the perfect easy objective to get me back into walking. So, just less than…

SCAFELL PIKE LAKE DISTRICT Celebrating the moment on a recent walk is David Harrison from Workington. In this photo, taken by his friend Alastair Byers, David is standing on Mickledore Buttress, near Pulpit Rock. Their day involved, “Lingmell, Scafell Pike and Scafell, via the cracking route of Lord’s Rake and the scramble up the West Wall Traverse/Deep Gill.” SCAFELL PIKE LAKE DISTRICT These men – almost certainly behaving badly – are Martyn, Pete, Howard and Eddy – all members of the Ageing Ramblers Society of England* from Stalybridge, in a photo taken by an obliging walker. (Evidently Pete had just passed a late fitness test on his gammy knee.) * Yes, we do see what they did there... GLACIER D’OSSOUE FRENCH PYRENEES Making their footballing allegiances perfectly clear are Mathew…

I watched our train pull slowly away from the platform, gather speed and chunter into the distance. The reassuring rumble faded and silence settled over the moor. We’d disembarked not into the usual impatient bustle of people and coffee shops but into the quiet space of an immense moorland. It’s odd to step off a train and find yourself surrounded by reeds, sky and birdsong. There went civilisation... except, not quite. Roughly a mile away, down a winding track, lay an isolated but enticing cabin: Loch Ossian hostel, accessible only by boot, bike or train to Corrour, where we’d just arrived. Located at 408m above sea-level, Corrour is the highest railway station in Britain, and one of the most remote (the nearest road ends a boggy 12 kilometres away). On…

What? Achmelvich beach Where? by Rhicarn, Lochinver, NC055249 Why? With its azure-blue water, this bay looks like the Med, or a far-flung honeymoon destination. But it isn’t. it’s one of Scotland’s finest beaches. You can stay close by at the Youth Hostel, which is accessible via bus (the 809 if you’re interested), and the Suilven walking trail is merely footsteps away. What? The Old Forge Where? Inverie, Knoydart, NG766001 Why? Hike 18 miles over Munros, and this – Britain’s most remote pub – is the gold at the end of the rainbow. Or, if you’re knackered and want to take a cruise without the fake tan and dinner suits, you can get there in 20 minutes from Mallaig. But why miss out on all the fun beforehand? What? Kinloch Castle…

Ingredients (makes six) • a full carrier bag of nettle tops• 1 bulb garlic• 1 egg• 50g breadcrumbs• 40g of Parmesan (grated)• salt and pepper to season• olive oil Method Wash the nettles to remove any bugs. Bring a pan of water to the boil then add nettles and simmer for 5-10 minutes until soft. Remove from heat, drain and cool. Using your hands, squeeze all the liquid from the nettles. The drained water will make excellent nettle tea. Remove any larger stalks then chop until fluffy. Add finely chopped garlic, breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan and finally crack an egg into the mix. Season generously with salt and pepper, and mix thoroughly. Take a palm-sized amount of mixture, give it a squeeze to see if it holds, (if too dry add a glug of olive oil, or another…

A BASE CAMP STOVE When you’re settled at a campsite there’s nothing worse than trying to feed yourself using a one-pot stove for the week. Primus is on the ball with gas camping stoves that make the whole process much easier. You can cook sauce at the same time as pasta without one getting cold, and you could even have the kettle on to make a good cup of tea at the same time. The stove lid and attached wings make effective windshields to stop the flames blowing out. It's easy to switch on: turn the knob and press the igniter! The Tupike even comes with its own mini non-stick griddle pan. PICTURED: Primus Tupike £180 B CUTLERY Forget the spork; when you're at base camp you can afford…

Much has been written about Haystacks, a relatively lowly fell in terms of stature but one that is big on features and interest. The moment you clap eyes on its rough, knobbly outline is the moment you will fall in love with it. This love will be carried on throughout a traverse of its varied and interesting top, full of impressive scenery and fabulous views; this is a short walk packed to the rafters with delight. Famously this fell was both the favourite and final resting place of Lakes guidebook writer Alfred Wainwright. The route starts at the foot of the northwestern side of Honister Pass and almost immediately heads into the hidden Warnscale Bottom. Indeed, the crags and gullies of Haystacks tower above during this section, giving a taste…

Walk this route on a clear day and you’ll have one of the best views that Snowdonia has to offer, from Moel Hebog to Snowdon, the Carneddau beyond and everything in between. Even Tryfan makes an appearance. It’s a striking view, but it’s one that many miss out on, as it’s often forgone in place of Snowdonia’s better-known peaks. Mynydd Mawr has a bit of a raw deal: it’s easily accessed from Rhyd-Ddu but the crowds neglect this lonely mountain and head straight for the Rhyd-Ddu Path up to Snowdon’s summit. A stroll through Beddgelert Forest is a tranquil way to start the walk before a steep ascent to get up onto the mountain itself. You’re then treated to a gentle stroll along the heather-covered ridge from Foel Rudd to…

Sandwiched between moor, mountain and glen, Bridge of Orchy has always been important for those making their way through the central Highlands. Old drovers’ roads pass by, as do the old military roads built to pacify the Highlands; more modern routes include the West Highland Railway, and the busy A82 to Fort William and beyond. For walkers, Bridge of Orchy sits on the West Highland Way and at the base of a glittering array of mountains that easily hold their own against any in Scotland. If it’s Munros or perhaps a Corbett you’re after, there are some classics to go after, some remote peaks, some with scrambling challenges and some with views that will blow your socks off! TRANSPORT Train to Bridge of Orchy 0871 200 2233 ACCOMMODATION Inveroran Hotel…

WE SAY... The Horns of Alligin are no shrinking violets. Their three distinct summits extend out in a long ridge, which makes up the whole eastern half of Beinn Alligin. Set in an isolated position, well away from the clutter of other mountains, the jagged crest is an irresistible draw to the eye. Low-angled light conditions of morning or evening are the best time to view this superb mountain, as it’s then that the deeper shadows reveal the striations, blocks and pinnacles of ‘The Horns’. The lofty, curvaceous crest is made up of ancient red sandstone, offering a ridge that has loads of exposure yet at the same time is broad enough, and with enough holds, to make it accessible to all. The crest can be tackled in either direction;…

Mynydd Mawr pretty much does what it wants. Some hills declare themselves very straightforwardly, booming, “I am a spiky mountain!” or drawling, “I’m an easy roller...”. Mynydd Mawr refuses to define itself so narrowly. To begin with, there are its cliffs: twisted pillars and terraces of rock that resemble a fantastical citadel. Both north and south faces are made of this thrilling stuff. The west, by contrast, simply descends very gently and calmly to sea-level. And on top, it’s a rounded dollop of a hill. The overall shape is a swirl, sweeping together all these characteristics of hill and rock. Come up via Foel Rudd and you’ll be treated to a short ridge where the ground falls away gently on one side and in steep crags on the other. Clamber…

The UK’s largest cycling body, British Cycling, has launched a campaign to get parts of the English and Welsh countryside opened up to cyclists. Such an arrangement already exists in Scotland, where the Scottish Land Reform Act gives those on two wheels the same rights of access that those on two feet enjoy. In letters to the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA), British Cycling set out the case for a similar approach in the rest of Britain, pointing out that at present ‘people on bikes only have access to less than a third of the 140,000 miles of public paths in England and Wales plus little access to the three million acres of Open Access Land’. The letters are co-signed by groups including, perhaps surprisingly, the British…

Y GRIBIN SNOWDONIA Here are Rob Lloyd and his friend Sam Catheral, on the way down Y Gribin while finishing the Bochlwyd Horseshoe scramble. Rob told Trail, “The impressive profile of Tryfan looking so prominent and beautiful in the backdrop just shows how spectacular the day was.” Each issue we’ll be giving away the new Summit 25/38 mattress from Multimat’s Expedition range. New materials make this self-inflating sleeping mat tougher and lighter for durability on unsupported expeditions. Tested to -35 deg C, its wedge profile maximises comfort and minimises weight, while a warm zone improves tog value under the torso. THIS COULD BE YOU! Send your shots, marked ‘Summit selfie’ to trail@bauermedia.co.uk www.multimat.uk.com…

It came out of nowhere. A sudden roar, a mix of air and noise. The ground trembled. Adrenaline surged. I pulled against the rock and turned to look over my shoulder. The sound came from empty space in mid air. But the source wasn’t invisible; just too fast for my ears. Ahead of the sonic disturbance left in its wake a cross-shaped object cut through the valley, its shadow the only thing keeping up. The noise abated, my nerves settled and my pulse calmed. In the distance the BAE Hawk T2 jet aircraft continued its swift return to RAF Anglesey. “Did you see that?!” Tom yelled from above. See it? I could still feel it... Pinnacle Ridge is not easy to find. It’s tucked among a tangle of aborted ridgelines,…

Oak leaves are rustling overhead. A small brook gurgles. In my hand are three different leaves, bright green and freshly plucked. One looks like a shamrock; I pop it in my mouth and crush it with my teeth. A sweet, lemony tang spreads over my tongue. I gaze down at my feet, at the base of the tree trunks and polished, mossy rocks. These piquant little leaves are almost everywhere. A Jack Russell cross called B tears down the path, tiny paws kicking up dirt. We’ve just dipped down into a meadow-lined valley on the way up to one of Dartmoor’s high tors, and while we’re here, we’re swindling up lunch. Later, we’ll be cooking up anything not already scoffed as guests of Weber, who invited us here. You may…

In 1986, Berghaus launched its new high-performance range: Extrem. It became an instant outdoor badge of proficiency for aspiring mountaineers and mountain walkers. Fast-forward 30 years, and the Mtn Haus design team is celebrating the longevity of the marque with a major relaunch. The Extrem 8000 Pro is the flagship product for the range, and it’s Berghaus’s most technical mountaineering jacket to date. The 8000 Pro utilises Gore-Tex’s toughest 3-layer membrane, Gore-Tex Pro Shell. Subtly different face fabrics are used for different zones of the jacket. Areas facing the most wear are made from tough 70 denier material, while the remainder of the jacket is constructed from 40 denier fabric to keep the weight down. Both appear to have excellent water-shedding properties. As you’d expect from a jacket that’s had…

• Trail Routes use OS mapping and gradient profiles, and are available to download at www.lfto.com/routes Hill-bagging stats Walking the Wainwrights, the Munros, the Corbetts or the Welsh 3000ers? These routes have got you covered. Gradient profile We map every route for its unique gradient profile, giving you a pinpoint impression of its progressive steepness and the heights you’ll hit. What are the Trail 100? They’re your tick-list of the 100 UK mountains you MUST climb! Download the full list from: bit.ly/trail100 Always take a map on the hill We aim to provide the most accurate information, but you must ALWAYS use an Ordnance Survey or Harvey map on the hill and double-check any directions against it. BEFORE YOU GO... If you’re likely to encounter snow or ice on your…

Skiddaw can be seen from almost every high point of every corner of the Lake District. From the south, its silhouette is classically elegant; yet even esteemed guidebook writer Alfred Wainwright notes it is defamed as a plod. For those trundling out of Keswick up the broad, graded switchbacks on the south-facing Jenkin Hill, it is a bit dull – dull, that is, if you manage to ignore one of the finest views in England, which grows more spectacular behind your back with each footfall. But the best approach to the country’s fourth highest peak is along the upland rib of Ullock Pike. It is one of the huge splinters of hillside that tumble from Skiddaw’s summit to the west and into Bassenthwaite Lake. An impressive ridgeline of heather, rock…

Like many of southern Snowdonia’s hidden gems, the name Maesglase turns no heads; but if you catch a glimpse of it from the A470 between Dinas Mawddwy and Bwlch Oerddrws, where its fine eastern flanks are buttressed by sweeping grassy ridges, it will grab your attention – guaranteed. And you’ll probably wonder why you haven’t been aware of it before. Its soft outlines are more like those of a classic Lakeland fell than a summit from an area famed for its rugged uplands. Sandwiched between Cadair Idris and the Aran hills, and escaping the grasp of the Dyfi Forest by a whisker, its sweeping, grassy edges are quite a sight. These contrast starkly with the dark and brooding crags that stand at the head of a beautiful green valley —…

1 NN274413 There is plenty of roadside parking just before the Inveroran Hotel. Leave the road by the West Highland Way and follow it south-east, then east as it climbs steeply across the hillside. 2 NN285410 After about 1.2km, a stalkers’ path breaks off right just before the minor summit of Mam Carraigh. Join the path and follow it south as it climbs the rough hillside to the junction with another path, just before a steepening. Join this path and climb it to gain the main crest. The path becomes vague along the summit crest but you should head generally south-west along it to gain the summit of Ben Inverveigh, which is marked by a small cairn. 3 NN271382 This walk is all about the view: from the summit you’ll…

The remote valleys of the western Lakes may take more effort to reach, but their appeal more than justifies the journey. This is prime mountain terrain, with Wasdale the roughest and grandest of the lot. From the hamlet of Wasdale Head it offers easy access to – among others – the Scafells (England’s highest), Great Gable (the National Park’s banner icon) and the unspoilt wilds of Red Pike. Tackle them the adventurous way, and you’ll ‘thread’ the iconic Napes Needle, gain the vista-rich col of Mickledore and forge your own path up Mosedale’s jumbled mountainside. These are scrambling classics, and the routes here deserve a place on your bucket list. TRANSPORT Trains to Seascale, 12 miles away (near Gosforth). Gosforth Taxis (01946) 734800. There is no public bus service to…

1 NY186087 Head south on the road from Wasdale Head, before passing the car park and cutting off to the left on the obvious path as the road bends right. Follow this as it climbs until you reach the waters of Lingmell Gill, turning a sharp left and climbing steeply up the sides of England’s highest mountain. 2 NY202073 Hollow Stones is aptly named because of its great boulders, which make it an interesting place to stop and rest. They also afford excellent views of the venomous crags of Scafell, which stand over you to the south. It’s not a mountain you’ll climb today, but it’s well worth a trip of its own. Ignore the obvious path that continues north-east, and instead, climb south-east up towards the col of Mickledore,…