Innholdsfortegnelse for #218 - Summer 2022 i Threads Magazine

Have time or material constraints led you to any sewing revelations? KATRINA WALKER (“The Natural History of Silk,” p. 58) says, “Being well above average height and always on deadline, I am intimately familiar with time and material constraints. I’ve learned that necessity is truly the mother of invention, and some of my best design ideas have sprung from compensating for a lack of adequate materials. I have also learned to embrace excellence rather than perfection. You can produce excellent work even if it isn’t strictly perfect. Finished is an achievement in itself.” Katrina teaches, sews, machine embroiders, spins, designs, and writes near Spokane, Washington. KatrinaWalker.com LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG (“The Modern Corset Maker,” p. 44) says, “I live at the Oregon Coast with a single, small fabric chain store, so…

How-to ◆ Projects & Patterns◆ Tools & Supplies ◆ Inspiration Pattern reviews in the round Go online to enjoy 360-degree views of: BurdaStyle 1210720, a swing dress designed to work with striped fabrics; and Marfy 9071, slim-fitting, ankle-length pants with surprise zipper details. Turn to Pattern Review, p. 24, to find out more about the features of these designs. Check out these Web Extras Stay lace edges before binding: A bias binding is a smart and attractive finish for “The Ultimate Guipure Lace Jacket,” p. 30. During garment construction, stabilize the lace edges before you get to the binding stage. Find out how to apply an organza stay that works. Results are in: The salvage and selvage redesign challenge required that entries be made of at least 25 percent upcycled…

During a field trip to Helen Uffner Vintage Clothing in Long Island City, New York, the Threads staff discovered an adorable two-piece dress from the 1950s (see the back cover). It comprises a simple fit-and-flare strapless dress, with an optional halter neckband, and a matching shawl that buttons to the dress’s back. When attached, the shawl looks like a sailor collar from the back and an unstructured sleeveless jacket from the front. It even has pockets. Whether you’re looking for protection from a breeze or from the sun’s rays, this cover-up is an easy-to-make solution. You can create a similar shawl to go with existing strapless or halter dresses, or plan one as part of a coordinating ensemble. The basic pattern shown is drafted from your measurements to achieve an…

Regardless of your sewing experience or skill level, it can be overwhelming to navigate the purchase of a sewing machine. There are many types of machines, each suited to different needs and various budgets. Unless you have personal experience with the sewing machine under consideration, you may wonder how to determine whether it will be right for you. As a software engineer and technologist, I have a methodical approach to researching and testing. I also bring this perspective to my sewing practice. This article outlines the prompts I use when choosing a sewing machine. I've found this systematic approach provides confidence in choosing a sewing machine. After thorough research, preparation, and testing, you should be able to select a machine that best suits your wants, needs, and budget. This process…

Can you imagine life without zippers? This closure has become such an integral part of modern clothing and accessories that we take it for granted. But when a zipper doesn’t work, it seems daunting to troubleshoot, repair, or replace it. Once you know a few tricks, however, it is easier to repair a zipper than to replace one, and often a small adjustment makes all the difference. A little practice is all it takes to become proficient at zipper repair. A few basic zipper tools and spare parts are well worth the investment to ensure favorite garments have a long, useful life. Katrina Walker is a designer and teacher based near Spokane, Washington. Zipper toolkit Build a versatile kit that contains replacement parts and tools for installing them. COMPONENTS The…

In the 1950s, sleeveless or strapless dresses (and patterns for them) often included a cropped jacket, bolero, or other cover-up to complete the look. This off-the-rack, two-piece ensemble takes an intriguing tack. Instead of a jacket, it has a matching button-on wrap. The simple halter dress is made of blue chambray cotton with fine stripes in metallic gold. The stripes have been mitered to form chevrons at the center-front bodice and front and back skirt seams. When the sun got too strong or evening temperatures fell, the wearer could button on the matching shawl. From the back, it looks like a sailor collar. In front, it appears to be a straight, sleeveless jacket, with pockets at the hem. Find out how to draft and sew a similar shawl to elevate…

Inquiring minds When it comes time to compile the readers’ letters and write each issue’s note to you, I’m reminded of how smart our audience is. You make great points and ask difficult questions. In this issue, we have new techniques and intriguing projects to inspire you. We also have fabulous online content coming up for you. For every sewer who struggles with attaining a good fit in pants, we present an innovative custom-fitting method. Ruth Collins shares her top-down, center-out process in the feature “Practical Pants Fitting,” p. 50. You can also listen to Ruth describe her journey to this technique in the April episode of our podcast, Sewing with Threads. Sewing expert Katrina Walker reveals “The Natural History of Silk,” p. 58. Her article explores how silk is…

Simplicity 9377 (Simplicity.com) This updated A-line skirt has style ease through the hips and thighs, plus a good amount of flare. It has a curved yoke, 1½-inch-deep inverted box pleats (three in front, three in back), side-seam pockets, lots of buttons, topstitching, and is available in two lengths. The shorter view ends just below the knee, while the longer view ends at midcalf. Details include a button placket on one or both side fronts and an optional nonfunctional tie appliquéd to the waistband. Our tester suggests: • Clip the skirt waistline seam allowance before sewing it to the yoke to facilitate joining the opposite curves. The instructions call for sewing the yoke to the skirt, then clipping the skirt’s waistline seam allowance. • If the fabric is tightly woven, a…

Art is made to be enjoyed, sometimes by many in public, sometimes in private for personal pleasure. Corsetier extraordinaire Alexander Chesebro hopes his creations bring the beauty of exquisitely detailed underpinnings to many—from those seeking historically correct foundation pieces to those looking to incorporate corsets into their special-occasion wear. Many of the unique and artful pieces he designs are hidden, worn only inside as foundation garments, but more and more are making their way into mainstream contemporary wardrobes. Alexander possesses a passion for historical accuracy and design, as well as high-end sewing techniques. The California native has traversed the country researching corsetry, particularly in New England museums, including Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, the Rhode Island School of Design, and the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, Massachusetts. Despite the pandemic,…

web extra See snapshots of the original garments used to create the winning designs at ThreadsMagazine.com. For Threads’ 2021 challenge to the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals (ASDP), we invited members to create a garment or ensemble made of at least 25 percent materials from used clothing, paired with at least 36 inches of fabric selvage. Their brief was to design an outfit for a professional setting, whether in an office, in a high-definition video conference from home, or another work context. The entries we received covered the gamut from formal to casual officewear, reflecting today’s many options for work environments. The judging panel included the overall winner of our 2020 challenge, Pat Billups; guest judge Dr. Lalon Alexander, associate professor at the University of the Incarnate Word, San Antonio,…

have a question? Send it to us and we’ll find an expert’s answer. Threads Q&A 63 South Main Street Newtown, CT 06470 or via email: ThreadsQ&A@taunton.com Layouts for diagonal fabric patterns Q Why do some patterns say “Unsuitable for obvious diagonals”? Other patterns have a warning that “Extra fabric is needed to match plaids, stripes, or one-way design fabrics.” I'm almost afraid to use any fabric that isn't solid. —Pam Derrick, via email A Dana Finkle, guidesheet composer at McCall’s, Butterick, Simplicity, and Vogue Patterns, and a former Threads assistant editor, offers background and advice: First, these notes should be viewed as cautions rather than prohibitions. According to my research, Simplicity patterns used to include fabric-cutting diagrams on the instruction sheets that showed how to orient the pattern pieces on fabric…

STYLE ADVICE I just received my Spring 2022 issue, #217. I’m taking the afternoon to read it all. I would love to see more articles from Nancy Nix-Rice. Her article last year (“The Core 4,” in #214, Summer 2021) was so helpful. Unless we are making ourselves look our very best, it doesn’t matter how well we sew, how expensive the fabric, or how good the fit. Her advice for body shape, color, and proportions is what makes us look our best. Thank you. I have been a subscriber for many, many years. —Judy Day, Wortham, Texas. COLOR REQUEST I received #216, Winter 2021, and was excited to see an article about men’s shirts, since I sew many. I was interested in the pants-fitting article but was disappointed when the…

For drape, flow, and a hint of sheerness, georgette is a stylish and classic choice. It is a crepe fabric, woven with tightly twisted warp and weft yarns that create a slightly pebbly texture and matte appearance. Georgette is less transparent and more weighty than chiffon, and is available in polyester, wool, or other fibers, but the most well-known and desirable type is silk. Georgette is an attractive option for evening gowns, as well as full pants, loose-fitting tops, scarves, and flowing dresses. It requires a lining, unless you are planning to wear it over a camisole or slip. Look for simple garment patterns without many seams and darts. Garment designs that are not generous enough could look skimpy. Full pants should be one-third to one-half larger than your hip…

Side-seam zippers just make sense. They are handy, easy to access, and from a design standpoint, fairly unobtrusive. The garment’s back is left undisturbed, a better option than interrupting a beautiful print or a pretty lace with a prominently placed zipper. Side seams are often shaped, though, and that can be a problem with a zipper in the seam. You can’t clip the seam allowances or zipper tape to accommodate a curve. Or can you? Actually, you can build in a beautiful curve while you install a lapped zipper successfully and easily by hand. Traditionally, a nicely shaped seam is easy enough to attain by clipping into the seam allowances. When there’s a zipper in the seam, however, your clipping options are limited. Clipping right up to the fold would…