Innholdsfortegnelse for #214 - Summer 2021 i Threads Magazine

KATE STRASDIN (“The Dress Diary,” p. 58) says, “I bought a linen panel from eBay last year. It was a printed embroidery of a summer meadow from the 1980s, and it came with all of the original very brightly colored wools—which I didn’t like—and no instructions. I bought some new Appleton wool skeins in shades of green and am making up the embroidery as I go along. It is a large panel, and so it is my lockdown project.” Kate started working in historic dress and textile collections more than 25 years ago and later embarked on an academic career. She is based in Devon, England, and can be found on Instagram, @katestrasdin. JUDE JOWILSON (“Profiles in Sewing: Jude Jowilson,” p. 80) says, "To create an appliquéd bodice and hide…

See our videos on Pinterest Scan this Pincode to see a video clip posted on Pinterest of the Vionnet-inspired skirt from “Grainlines in Concert,” p. 64, plus a whole board of informative sewing videos and clips from Threads. Watch and listen to classic and new podcast episodes Learn from the expert guests and Threads editors as they talk sewing on the monthly podcast, Sewing with Threads. New episodes are released the first Wednesday of the month at ThreadsMagazine.com, on the Threads Sewing YouTube channel, and on iTunes, Spotify, iHeartRadio, and wherever you find podcasts. • Pants fitting with Linda Lee • Self-sewn wardrobe style with Erica Bunker • Make sewing your side hustle with Tabitha Sewer • Designing a pattern line with Jenny Rushmore Insider video Cut and join bias…

Sewers through the centuries have always needed the means to mark stitching lines, fold hems, flatten seams, and perform other basic tasks in garment construction. Over time, implements were invented to make these tasks easier and more accurate. These tools were made from bone, wood, and other natural materials. In a time when irons were scarce and difficult to use, these devices were indispensable. Many of the ancient designs are still in use, even as new notions made from modern materials are invented. Whether the stitching is by hand or machine, these items should be in every sewer’s toolbox. Katrina Walker is a designer, educator, and author based in Spokane, Washington. KatrinaWalker.com Hera markers One of the oldest and most recognizable creasing tools is the hera marker. The Japanese word…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging techniques Petite options For knits Downloadable pattern Decades of Style: 1930s Butterfly Blouse 3005 (DecadesOfStyle.com) This timeless style has lovely details that make it a great choice for many occasions. It is a wrap blouse with one-piece, elbow-length sleeves. The flowing sleeves are cut in one with a saddle shoulder, which meets in a center-back seam above the back bodice. The front bodice pieces feature a few inches of shirring beneath the yoke. The shirring adds a decorative touch that releases into shaping for the bust. Long ties wrap and cinch the waist, tying at front. The directions are clear and the sewing techniques are not difficult, but take your time for precision…

A capsule wardrobe promises to solve the problem of having nothing to wear, despite a closet full of clothes. Well-planned garment groupings are also ideal for travel, for downsizing to smaller living quarters with less storage space, or simply for ensuring that every garment you own is versatile and flattering. They also answer a desire to live a more streamlined, sustainable, and intentional life. The most efficient, direct route to the capsule wardrobe lifestyle is to sew a garment group I call a “core four.” The core four is a combination of two different bottom garments, an underlayer top, and an overlayer top in the style of your choice. All are in the same—or closely blended—neutral color. With the addition of accent tops or jackets, these four pieces can be…

When you feature patch pockets on a garment that doesn’t lend itself to visible topstitching, the usual method is to line the pocket, then hand-sew it in place. A hand-sewn pocket is not as durable for use, however, and may detach over time. I’ve developed a method for applying a patch pocket that results in a strong attachment but has no visible machine stitching. In this technique, the lining is machine-sewn to the garment, then the fashion fabric layer is hand-sewn over it. The look is sleek and tailored, and the pocket can stand up to holding a phone, keys, or concert tickets—whatever you like to keep close at hand. Bonnie Wheaton of Wheaton, Illinois, has created everything from slipcovers to wedding dresses in more than 50 years of sewing.…

Late in the process of creating each issue, we have an important ritual, the layout review or “wall walk.” Before the coronavirus pandemic, it was an in-person team review of pages, pinned to the conference room wall. The review was a chance to see the content in a way that’s different from turning pages. You spot other details when you see the issue all at once. We plan the story order, alternating image styles and techniques, and creating a color flow in the issue. In almost every issue, one prevalent color would be revealed. The review moved online as we worked from home, and we scroll through pages instead of walking by. This issue was different, though. For the first time since I’ve worked at Threads, the pages looked like…

If you love the free-form look and fun hues of tie-dye, consider applying the technique to a fabric that’s more sophisticated than a cotton T-shirt: Try dyeing pure silk. I’ll explain how to choose and use dyes suited for silk, and how to tie (or fold) and dye your yardage to produce artful results that are simultaneously controlled and slightly loose. You’ll love mixing these vibrant textiles with your summer solids and neutrals. Everyone knows that silk is a lustrous, luxurious fabric that feels great to wear. What isn’t as well known is how versatile and easy silk fabrics are to work with. In fact, silk is simple to dye with products of minimal toxicity. If you can color an Easter egg, you are qualified to create your own fabulous…

INSPIRED COAT After following your Instagram coverage of the inauguration coats, I was inspired by Nancy Pelosi’s Max Mara coat and made a version in my color. I don’t know how to share it on social media—so I’m emailing a photo. I came back to tailoring because, as someone who is retired, I am getting tired of thinking that getting dressed up means jeans instead of leggings. As soon as the pandemic is over, I am wearing this coat everywhere. Thanks for an excellent publication. —Dawn Tarr, via email LEARN AND TEACH Threads #213, Spring 2021, which I have just absorbed, is fantastic. I am the lead seamstress for a costume department. With 60 years sewing experience, I was asked to guide and instruct the less-experienced sewers how to use…

Sequins are a favorite embellishment on garments ranging from fabulous evening gowns to sassy T-shirts and jeans. The 1960s wool dress shown on the back cover goes from basic to festive with the addition of sequined rounds, placed randomly over the front and back. Sequins come in a variety of colors, finishes, sizes, and shapes. Individual sequins must be attached separately, and this can be time-consuming. The embellishment on the back cover dress can be duplicated with sequin trim (DoveOriginalsTrims.com), in which sequins are linked in a row with a chain stitch. The sequins overlap like scales. By applying this type of trim in a spiral, you can easily and relatively quickly create big, glittering dots. To make sequined circles, you can sew by hand or machine. In both cases,…

Madeleine Vionnet (1876–1975) was a purist. To her, the best designs incorporated four principles: proportion, movement, balance, and truth. I believe these elements are all found in the skirt of a 1937 evening gown, illustrated as pattern 18 in Madeleine Vionnet by Betty Kirke (Chronicle Books, 1998). At first glance, Vionnet’s skirt looks like a simple circle skirt, but it is composed of several geometric pattern pieces, instead of a big circle with another circle cut out for the waist. One pattern piece I had never seen before was a two-piece yoke that is one and a quarter circles. Laid flat, and before joining to the skirt panels, the yoke looked like a spiral. Vionnet was influenced by the artistic theory of “dynamic symmetry,” which suggests the application of the…

Jude Jowilson knew at an early age, while sewing at his grandmother’s side in the Philippines, fashion was in his future. “When I was 14 or 15, I made my cousin’s wedding dress, and it evolved from there,” he says. Today, after two decades in the industry, Jowilson is living his dream in New York City. He’s a sought-after designer known for his elegant bridal gowns that are at once nostalgic and modern. “New York has always been a big part of my brand. It is a perfect mix of classic style, chic elegance, and just the right dose of unexpectedness that keeps you interested and hooked,” Jowilson says. Featuring high-end materials in flattering shapes, Jowilson’s gowns are often embellished with luxurious and complex detailing. Intricate draping, a key technique…

have a question? Send it to us and we’ll find an expert’s answer. Threads Q&A 63 South Main Street Newtown, CT 06470 or via email: ThreadsQ&A@taunton.com Fitting a vest to an asymmetric body Q Can you help me with fitting adjustments for people with scoliosis or other body curvatures? My son has extremely uneven shoulders, different length sides, a very flat chest, and arms that are 10 cm [nearly 4 inches] longer than average. I can lengthen a pattern’s sleeves, but I haven’t figured out how to fit a garment for him. Also, his neck is not directly above his trouser button. I would like to make him a fitted waistcoat but I am really struggling. —Lucie Nicholson, via email A We consulted with fitting expert Kenneth D. King, author…

A circa 1966 French shift walks the line between whimsy and sophistication, with its embroidered sequin motifs of varied sizes. The oversized sequins, applied in scattered concentric circles, catch the light and make a simple sleeveless dress literally sparkle. The sequin circles were placed to accommodate easy maintenance, with none in the sitting area. The dress is lined for wearing comfort. See how to attach sequins by hand or machine on p. 30.…