WHEN PONDICHERI chef-owner Anita Jaisinghani moved to Houston in 1990, Diwali was more of a personal holiday, something typically observed at home. Even then, Thanksgiving preparations often took precedence in the fall so that her children would feel more “American.” As multiculturalism became more valued in the mainstream over the next decade, however, Jaisinghani had a growing desire to openly publicize the five-day holiday known as the Festival of Lights. “I wanted to express my culture, and I wanted to be proud of it,” Jaisinghani says.
After opening her first restaurant, Indika, in 2001, she started promoting Diwali with celebratory dishes such as mithai, the bite-size sweets, and undhiyu, a five-vegetable stew from her birthplace in Gujurat. She set out votive candles, multicolored roses, golden marigolds, and blooming lotus flowers in…
