Innholdsfortegnelse for 100 i Simply Sewing

Welcome to our 100th issue! Sewing really is far more than a hobby – it’s escapism, a statement, a community; and this milestone feels even more significant after such a turbulent couple of years, so a special thank you to you – our lovely readers – for keeping us going. Hitting triple figures isn’t all we’re celebrating this month, though. October marks Black History Month, so we’re also celebrating the wonderful Black makers who contribute so much to our fantastic community. And finally, we know how important it is to get a head start on festive making, so we’re also kick-starting Christmas! Let’s get stuck in… WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING#SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

STAY COOL Once you’ve worn the Piqué Tunic you won’t want to take it off! This oversized lounge tunic is designed for all and is perfect for days at home, at the beach or on holiday. It’s beginner friendly and easily customistable, with instructions given for changing the length, the depth of the plunging neckline and height of the side seam split. Available in sizes XS–4X from christinehaynes.com. OUR 100TH ISSUE! We’re so proud of how our magazine has grown over the years, and so grateful to our lovely readers for joining us along the way. To celebrate, we’re offering our biggest ever subscription discount (50% off!) and some amazing competition prizes on pages 16-19! FESTIVE TREATS Make December extra special with a small sewing treat every day in the…

KIMBALL BOMBER JACKET This curve-friendly take on the classic bomber jacket is available exclusively to Cashmerette Club members in sizes 0–32 and cup sizes C–H. It features thoughtfully placed bust darts and the option of quilted sleeves, a neat faced zip and handy angled pockets. It can be made up in a variety of fabrics, from cotton, canvas and sateen through to brocade, jacquard or wool. cashmerette.com PATTERN INSPIRATION Stay soft and warm with our pick of the best boiled wool patterns 1 FARROW DRESS This classic A-line dress from Grainline Studio is another pattern that can be made up in lots of different fabrics and enjoyed year-round. It features clever diagonal seaming which not only adds detail but conceals in-seam pockets, too. You can choose to add or remove…

This issue you can download a bonus copy of our Sewing for Kids bookazine − worth £11.99! It’s packed with projects for your little ones, including plushie toys, costumes, accessories and seasonal gifts (just in time for Christmas!) as well as handy sewing guides and templates. Scan the QR code or head over to gathered.how/bonus-gift to get your digital bookazine and start sewing today. Already a newsletter subscriber? Simply check your email inbox for the download, which will be included as a link within your weekly newsletter.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Mid-weight woven fabric: 1.5m ■ Bodkin ■ Loop turner ■ Straight and curved ruler ■ Fabric marker or chalk ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm unless otherwise stated. FABRICS USED ■ Lady McElroy Barclay linen viscose in Chocolate from minerva.com. MEASUREMENTS NEEDED ■ W: (0.5 x hip measurement) + 25cm ■ L: distance from the nape of the neck to the top of the hip curve PREP AND CUT THE FABRIC Step one Press the fabric and cut it using the calculations below: Front: one WxL Back: one (WxL) + 10cm Sleeve Ties: two 170x8cm Sleeve Channels: two 77x7cm Bias Strip: 5x60cm cut on the bias grain Step two Fold the Front and Back pieces in half widthways so…

I think we can all agree that 2020 was a seismic year of change – one that will go down in the history books. As well as the pandemic, it was the year that triggered us to reflect on racism within our communities and a wake-up call to try and do better. Let’s be honest, it was a painful year and, I don’t know about you, but I’ve been very grateful to have sewing to carry me through. But the crafting communities (as lovely and wholesome as they are) aren’t immune to the same issues found within wider society. We are, after all, the same people carrying the same unconscious biases, so it makes sense that we’ve had to grapple with the same problems of racism and lack of diversity…

YOU WILL NEED For each doll ■ Plain cotton in a skin tone of your choice: one fat quarter ■ Printed cotton: one fat quarter ■ Toy stuffing ■ Narrow ribbon ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 5mm unless otherwise stated. ■ Fat quarter = 50x55cm (18x22in) ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates. FABRICS USED ■ Kona Cotton for the doll’s skin ■ Printed 100% cotton for body CUTTING OUT Step one Cut out all the pieces. Step two From the plain fabric cut:Head Front: one using the template Step three From the patterned fabric cut:Head Back: one using the templateBody: one pair using the templateWings: one pair using the templateBonnet: one using the template PREPARATION Step one Using an…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Dark blue long-sleeved shirt ■ White stranded cotton ■ Light-coloured pattern transfer paper ■ Small embroidery hoop ■ Embroidery needle ■ Embroidery scissors NOTES ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates. ■ For helpful guides to the stitches used in this project, head to gathered.how/how-to-embroider. EMBROIDERING THE DESIGN Step one Unbutton the shirt cuff. Lay the pattern transfer face down on the cuff and then place the patterns on top. Use a pen or stylus to trace over the patterns, pressing firmly. Add as many constellations as you like and in any arrangement you want. It may help to pre-trace the pattern arrangement you want in a rectangle the size of your cuff. 01 Step two Place the cuff in a small embroidery hoop. It won’t fit…

I'm so tremendously proud of this issue, our 100th in print. What a fantastic achievement − a big thank you to all of our talented contributors who make it all possible. As well as reaching triple figures, we're celebrating Black History Month and all the wonderful Black makers who contribute so much to our sewing community. Africa in Fashion author, Ken Kweku Nimo, shares an exclusive piece on the heritage of Kente cloth (p44) and Rumana Dawood revisits her #SewInColour campaign, reflecting upon the positive changes we've seen take place in the industry too (p60). What a joyous issue − enjoy!…

WALLA, MAKE WITH MANDI For a relaxed fit and effortless wear, Mandi’s Walla Jumpsuit is a must-make. With an elasticated waist and button front, this design is all about comfort, and it comes with those all-important pockets. It also features long and short sleeve options, so you can make this in a lightweight viscose for the summer and a heavier twill for an autumn–winter staple. Available in UK sizes 6–26, makewithmandi.com. LIN JUMPSUIT, SELKIE PATTERNS Lin is a slightly more formal jumpsuit with a fitted bodice, a square neckline, a tie waistband and optional puff sleeves. However, by mixing and matching sleeve and trouser styles you can make this to suit any occasion and season. Available in UK sizes 6–22, thefoldline.com. MIRRI JUMPSUIT, PAPERCUT PATTERNS Mirri is another option which…

This year, Minerva launched its very first range of exclusive fabrics and now stocks more than 70 gorgeous prints on beautifully soft viscose challis. This month, Minerva is offering the chance for six sewists to win a total of three metres of fabric in their chosen prints. As a natural fibre, viscose is great for keeping you cool in summer and for layering in winter, so whatever you decide to make will be wearable all year round, and with such a diverse range of prints available, there’s something to suit every taste. Take a closer look at the fabrics and find making inspo at minerva.com. See gathered.how/sew_comps to enter today! (Competition is open to UK residents, aged 18+. Closing date is 23.59 on 27/10/22. Full T&Cs can be found here:…

The end of September marks the arrival of autumn, so now is the perfect time to get ahead on your seasonal wardrobe. Kick things off with a stylish wool coat for the ultimate cosy layer with Carla Diogo’s (setsquarepatterns.com) Roxy Raglan Coat – an exclusive pattern designed for Simply Sewing! This smart-casual design can be made in two different lengths and will effortlessly take you from work to weekend. We love how versatile this is for styling, too! Will you go bold or pastel with your fabric choice? Matching or contrast for your buttons? Perhaps even a colour block or two? We can’t wait to see your finished designs! YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 3.5mx115cm or 3mx140cm ■ Iron-on mid-weight woven interfacing: 1mx90cm ■ Bias binding: 3.5m (optional) ■…

Kro kro kro kro, Hin, hin, hin, hin, Kro hin, kro hin, kro kro kro, Hin hin hin, Kro hin Kro Asante Bonwire Kente yi di3 menhunu bi da oh… The sound of folk music accompanies a rhythmic movement of the hands and feet of master craftsmen who steadily compose on rudimentary looms one of the world’s most beautiful textiles: the Kente cloth. Popular amongst weavers of Ashanti and Ewe tribes in Ghana, Kente weaving is both performative and gendered, evoking the dexterity and creativity of the master craftsman. “Like many textile traditions, The origin of Kente is shrouded in mythology." Like many indigenous textile traditions around the world, the origin of Kente is shrouded in mythology. According to Akan folklore, two brothers, while on a hunting expedition, discovered the…

When I was nine, my aunt had a job designing and sewing men’s suits. I thought it was the coolest thing ever and dreamt of becoming a fashion designer myself. After expressing interest in sewing, a family friend gave me my first sewing machine, a very old and heavy 1950s teal White brand that I absolutely adored. My aunt helped me make pyjamas and some of the coolest outfits. Looking back it was a defining time in my life. I stopped sewing during my teenage years, but at the age of 22 I came back to it because clothing in the store either shrunk in the wash, wasn’t good quality or didn’t fit me right. I discovered I was very pear shaped and that RTW clothing was not accommodating to…

@peaceontheside Leila feels most confident when wearing her me-mades, and looking at her new capsule wardrobe, it’s easy to see why! @sewnbyashika If you’re after jumper dress inspo ahead of the colder weather, look no further than Ashika’s colourful feed. @whatavmade Averil’s page is filled with chic makes! She’s well worth a follow for pattern hack ideas, too - particularly for petite sewists. @sketch2stitch Pirianka shares incredible self-drafts and glamorous makes on her page. We’re in awe of her one-shoulder veil set! @sew.with.joy Admire Joy’s impeccable fabric taste – including Liberty and Rifle Paper Co. prints – as she explores New York City. @made_by_amritAmrit‘s love and excitement for her homemade garments is contagious! Her Patina Blouse is one of our faves.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Non-stretch cotton velvet: 50x115cm ■ Duchess satin for lining: 40x50cm ■ Iron-on wadding: 40x50cm ■ D-rings: x4 ■ Diamante trim (optional) ■ Plastic canvas for the base ■ Paper for the pattern ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm. CUTTING OUT For this project you can trace the measurements onto paper so you have templates to use, or you can mark the measurements directly onto the reverse of your fabric. Velvet has a nap, so all pieces must face the same way (with nap facing downward). Cut all pieces individually instead of placing the fabric on the fold as velvet can shift while cutting. Step one From the main fabric cut:Main Panel: one 40.5x21.5cm. On both long edges, mark a…

There’s a project for everyone in our Festive Gift Guide booklet included with this issue; whether you’re sewing for your home, your little ones or even your pet, we’ve got you covered! The 15 projects inside vary from quick-sews that you can hand stitch in an evening to bigger weekend projects to keep you busy, so pop the kettle on and get planning! For even more Christmas making inspo, turn to page 28 where you’ll find decoration ideas, and head to gathered.how to find plenty of other crafty ideas for the home and family.…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

CARLA DIOGO Pattern cutter Carla is the creative designer behind the Roxy Raglan Coat – this issue’s cover star (p24). You can find other designs from Carla at Set Square Patterns (setsquarepatterns.com) or attend a workshop at her lovely Bristol-based store. ALEXIS BAILEY There’s something calming in reading about slow, sustainable sewing, and Alexis’ column piece (p54) is a must-read for some peaceful reflection on your own sewing practice. Enjoy her gentle approach to making at @helloalexisbailey. KEN KWEKU NIMO Ken is a Ghanian researcher, designer and master of all-things fashion. He recently published Africa in Fashion, and in this issue he’s introducing us to a traditional textile of Ghana – the vibrant and symbolic Kente cloth (p44). MISTER LARRIE If arts and crafts enthusiast Larrie King isn’t already lighting…

THE MAGIC OF POCKETS Jess Driscoll ($12.95, Microcosm Publishing) Pockets are such an important feature of any garment, so why do so many of our clothes not have them? Jess Driscoll is here to transform your wardrobe with a guide to adding pockets to your favourite clothes. Most of them can be sewn by hand, so as the nights start to draw in, we’ll pass the evenings stitching pockets. You’ll also learn the history of pockets, and why they’re so hard to find in RTW clothing. SEWING WITH SCRAPS Debbie von Grabler-Crozier (£6.99, Search Press) There’s no such thing as a scrap too small in Debbie von Grabler-Crozier’s latest book. Even the tiniest offcuts can be used to make one of the 20 projects included in this book. Sew patchwork…

CHRISTMAS DECOR WREATH Not only does a plaited fabric wreath announce your love for all things handmade, it will also last you for years to come! Pick and mix festive fabrics and prints to create a one-of-a-kind decoration to display with pride. Friends and family will soon be placing their orders! STOCKINGS A mantle adorned with stockings is a Christmas-card worthy image! Especially when made in gorgeous seasonal fabrics. Sew four stockings to hang on your fireplace or at the end of beds on Christmas Eve for the much-anticipated arrival of Santa... ADVENT CALENDAR We love the idea of a shared advent calendar! Fill this with your family’s favourite sweet treats, or why not get everyone to write down ideas for a fun group activity and take it in turns…

Name: Faith St. Juliette (she/her) Instagram handle: @faithstjules Patterns used: Top: Nikko Top, True Bias; Trousers: Saguaro Set, Friday Pattern Co. Fabric: Mid-weight suiting fabric Fabric Stockist: Gifted from a friend Autumn (or fall to me!) is cool here in Georgia, so a light turtleneck and mid-weight pants are perfect for when you need to run errands or nip into the office. I was drawn to both the Nikko Set by True Bias and the Saguaro Set by Friday Pattern Company as they both work well with my ‘comfortable casual’ style. I love the fact that both patterns can be sewn in multiple forms. With the Nikko Set, you can sew a sleeveless top or dress for layering, or you can add sleeves for a warmer set. And with…

PSST: Turn the page for fabric and styling inspiration. Share your Grace Dress with us using #SimplySewingMag. The Grace dress is absolutely timeless, and knit designs always gets bonus points from us for maximum comfort! If you’re new to sewing jersey, this project is a great skills-booster. You’ll sew a faux-wrap bodice and gathered skirt to create this wardrobe essential. With two lengths available for both the sleeves and the hem, you can mix and match your pattern to make an office and weekend version that you can style and layer throughout the autumn and winter months. We’ll be opting for a classic tights and boots combo for day-to-day wear, and then switching to heels for an evening look that feels as good as it looks! Be sure to share…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Heavy cotton or denim: 1yd, trimmed to 32x25in ■ Double-fold bias tape quilt binding, ⅞in wide: 60in (coral) ■ Double-fold bias tape quilt binding, ⅞in wide: 36in (black) ■ Double-fold extra-wide bias tape, ½in wide: 22in (light pink) ■ Wright’s double-fold extra-wide bias tape, ½in wide: 22in (yellow) ■ Wright’s double-fold extra-wide bias tape, ½in wide: 30in (black) ■ Kona Cotton Dusty Palette Roll-Up: five strips, each trimmed to 2x8in ■ Patterned fabric (floral/pattern 1): ¼yd, trimmed to two 8x6in and 5.5x10in panels ■ Solid cotton or muslin panels: two measuring 8x8in and 8x20in ■ Additional fabric panels, trimmed as follows: 2.5x8in (green) 4.25x8in (grey and white) 4x8in (coral/colour 1) ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is ¼in. ■ Quilt binding by Wrights. MAKING…

DRAFT YOUR OWN!SELF-DRAFT YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 2.5mx150cm (see notes) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. ■ If your fabric is narrower than 150cm you may need 3+ metres of fabric. ■ If you are sewing the robe for someone pear shaped (ie, their hips are bigger than their bust), you will need to use their hip measurement every time we use the bust/chest measurement. FABRICS USED ■ Medium waffle cotton in Burnt Orange from minerva.com. TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS Step one We are going to make a pattern based on your own body measurements. Measurements needed: Bust or chest and hips Neck to waist Waist to knee Arm length (base of neck to wrist) MAKING THE RECTANGLE PATTERN: Step…

STOCKINGS PAGE 37ACTUAL SIZE Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help. ANGELS PAGE 67ACTUAL SIZE…

MY FAVOURITE THING “My love for ankara fabric started with my very first sewing project. I came across a beautiful maxi ankara skirt on Instagram and vowed that I would learn how to sew so I could make it myself. I fell in love with the skirt’s bold prints and patterns and vibrant colours. Ankara fabric has a lot of structure and is typically used to create trousers, blazers, skirts and dresses. I love the variation of hues and the fact that most ankara fabric can be worn throughout pretty much any season. My favourite garment to sew with ankara fabric is definitely dresses. For the most part, dresses can truly showcase and highlight the beauty of the fabric based on the pattern selected. As a maths teacher, I am…