Innholdsfortegnelse for 97 i Simply Sewing

With the promise of sunny days ahead, we’re indulging in all things bright and beautiful. Our new strappy sun dress (p18) is the perfect getaway make with four neck and hemline options for you to choose from. Co-host Juliet Uzor shares her thoughts on Ankara Appreciation Week (11–18 July) with an exclusive feature (p39) and scrunchie project. If all of that wasn’t enough to boost your sewing mojo, have a look at our new Happy Home Makes booklet - packed with 10 cheery projects to sew for your living spaces. As always, do share your photos with us @SimplySewingMag, we love seeing your makes!…

Pleats Pleats add volume and interest says Production Editor Emily Freer EMELIA DRESS, SEW ME SOMETHING For an easy-wear garment that stands out from your basics, the A-line Emelia Dress is a comfy and stylish choice. The tie cuffs and front and backpleat are lovely features of the otherwise simple design, and you can choose to make this with a collar if you’re after something a bit more formal. Available in UK sizes 8–26, sewmesomething.co.uk. FRIDA BLOUSE, SEW OVER IT This Frida Kahloinspired boxy design has pleats on both the front and back yoke. Make this pattern as a dress or blouse and choose from two different sleeve lengths for the changing seasons. Follow #SOIFridaBlouse for fabric and styling inspiration! Available in UK sizes 6–30, sewoverit.com. ROSE PANTS, MADE BY…

AFRICA IN FASHION Ken Kweku Nimo (£35, Laurence King Publishing) Ghanain designer and researcher Ken explores Africa’s rich cultural heritage and place in the network of global fashion in this new title. This two-part book looks at the history of African fashion and textile traditions before discussing modern-day African fashion. You’ll discover prominent brands and designers through interviews and learn more about their practices and ethos. SERENA SEWS Serena Baker (£20, Black and White Publishing) Learn essential skills and transform your wardrobe with this sustainability-focused book from Sewing Bee’s youngest ever winner, Serena Baker. You’ll find basic pattern blocks inside to adapt and build on as well as tips for finding preloved items that you can rework and upcycle into something new to love and wear. Turn to page 70…

Name: Jen Hogg Instagram handle: @jenerates Website: jenhogg.co.uk Pattern: Atelier Jupe and Bel’Etoile Lynn blouse and dress Fabric used: Atelier Jupe viscose, Abstract Print and Tie Dye (atelierjupe.com) I love a loose-fitting dress for the summer months and so was intrigued by the Lynn blouse and dress pattern from Atelier Jupe and Bel’Etoile. I really like how clean this pattern is; the neckline design is very elegant and I love the wide sleeves and side splits. It’s a pattern which can take you from beach throw-over to evening out, and from blouse to dress as well. You could make this pattern in a fabric with drape and have an elegant dress tied at the waist, or go for a more robust linen for an easy-to-wear outfit. FABRIC CHOICE I made…

Ankara Appreciation Week is a week where sewists all over the world share their African wax creations with the sewing community on Instagram using the hashtag #SewAnkaraFabric and #AnkaraFabricAppreciationWeek. Hosted by me (@julietuzor_) and Lena King (@thatlenaking), we highlight amazing designs and creativity by home sewists and share a range of resources to aid the makers to have a great experience sewing with African wax fabrics, including sharing physical and online stores where people can buy the fabrics. So, with Ankara Appreciation Week coming up this year between 11–18 July, here are ten things you need to know about ankara fabric. 1 African wax fabrics are often 100% cotton and showcase beautiful designs which are, in some cases, big and bold, and in other cases, small and subtle. Ankara fabrics,…

Make a statement pinafore dress or skirt with this unique pattern from Vanessa Hansen Studio. Head to vanessahansenstudio.com for colour-blocking inspiration! YOU WILL NEED Fabric, view A ■ Size 8–16: Main fabric: 2.7mx115cm / 2.4mx135cm Lining: 0.7mx115cm / 0.7mx135cm ■ Size 18–24: Main fabric: 3.2mx115cm / 2.8mx135cm Lining: 0.7mx115cm / 0.7mx135cm Fabric, view B and C ■ Size 8–16: 2.2mx115m / 1.9mx135cm ■ Size 18–24: 2.6mx115cm / 2.2mx135cm ■ Iron-on interfacing for the waistband View A and B: 0.75mx50cm ■ Invisible zip for view A and B: 28cm ■ Elastic for view C: 3.8cm wide x your waist measurement ■ Invisible zip foot (view A and B only) NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. ■ For view A and B, an invisible zip foot is easiest to…

LOOK AT THE LABELS The first step is just physically observing the labels on the fabric you are using to check exactly what it is and its credentials. GET CLUED UP ON THE LINGO The eco fabric world does have a lot of terminology to familiarise yourself with. When in doubt, Google! REUSE AND RECYCLE You may already have a whole load of items in your wardrobe or fabrics in your stash that aren’t sustainable, but if you reuse and recycle them you're doing your bit for the environment. Refashioning is a great way of prolonging the life of clothes. SPREAD THE WORD Now you’re more clued up on eco fabrics, why not share the love and send the message far and wide? Upload that Instagram Story, start that blog…

There’s no place like home! Give your interior décor a refresh with our Happy Home Makes booklet included with this issue. Update your kitchen with a new tea towel and tea cosy, freshen up your living room with a fun pineapple doorstop and bright cushion, and sew a fold-out bed for guests as well as a cosy bed for the family dog! Whether you’re looking for a small project for an afternoon sew or want to get stuck into something larger, you’ll find a project to suit. Find more simple sewing projects for the home at gathered.how.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric for outer and lining* ■ Elastic, 1cm wide: up to 1m ■ Crinoline (optional) ■ Rolled hem foot (optional) ■ Elastic thread NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm. ■ *Find pattern blocks and a full size chart at blackandwhite publishing.com/pages/ serena-sews-block-patterns. Follow steps for ‘Making the Pattern’, then measure your pieces to calculate fabric requirements. PATTERN PIECES ■ Front: two on fold ■ Side Back: four ■ Centre Back: one ■ Front Skirt: one on fold ■ Side Seam Pockets: two pairs ■ Sleeve Top Base: two ■ Sleeve Top Ruffle: two ■ Sleeve Bottom Ruffle: two. MAKING THE PATTERN FRONT Step one Measure 5cm towards centre of Front Bodice, at level of the lowest armhole notch, and mark a point A. From this point, create…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Brown fabric: 40x42cm ■ Green floral fabric: 45x26cm ■ Dark teal fabric: 32x14cm ■ Turquoise fabric: 22x11cm ■ Light turquoise fabric: 22x11cm ■ Pale pink fabric: 20x18cm ■ Lightweight wadding: 16x12cm ■ Lightweight interfacing: 18x9cm ■ Black DK acrylic wool ball: 50g ■ Pink narrow cotton lace trim: 70cm ■ Turquoise satin ribbon: 100cm ■ Pink narrow satin ribbon: 40cm ■ Black and pink stranded cotton ■ Stiff card: 12x22cm ■ Polyester toy filling; 200g NOTES ■ Find the templates on page 87 or at gathered.how/ss-templates. ■ Use 6mm seam allowances. ■ Size: approximately 43cm tall. FABRICS USED ■ Robert Kaufman, Essex Linen in Cinnamon and Kona Solids in Glacier, Jade Green and Capri. ■ Andover, Flora and Fauna Wild Carrots in Grass. ■ Ruby Star…

“Since my childhood, I have always appreciated colourful garments. I grew up in an environment where it was a must in the outfits of people surrounding me, regardless of gender. So, when I moved to Paris, I was very frustrated by what was offered for menswear. We always get the same palette of blue, grey, black and beige... Learning to sew was so liberating for me: I can finally dress how I want and adjust my own garments. I can enjoy playing with colours, contrasts, materials and details without limits. This bomber jacket is a good illustration of what I can do. I totally fell in love with this corduroy fabric from So Tissus. I really like its unusual purple colour, its texture and that it’s flamboyant without overdoing it.…

VANESSA HANSEN STUDIO For Vanessa, clothing is another way to express yourself, and there’s plenty of opportunity to do that with the Lynn Pinafore included with this issue! Choose from three different styles to sew a dress or skirt that’s just you. Take a look on page 48. TENDAI MURAIRWA We’re huge fans of Tendai’s stand-out style, and we’re so excited to have an exclusive design from her this issue. Find step-by-step instructions for self-drafting a pair of wide-leg trousers on page 56, and find styling inspiration at @withtee_. ATIA AZMI In this issue’s My Sewing World column (page 64), Atia from sewing and lifestyle blog The Bright Blooms (thebrightblooms.com) tells us what she’s currently making, what her favourite patterns are and where she finds sewing inspiration. JEN HOGG Discover…

Sew a wardrobe staple with the strappy Raya Dress! With different necklines and dress lengths to choose from, you’ll get lots of use out of this pattern, and the simple style and shape will go with everything in your wardrobe. In the summer months you could style this over a T-shirt and when it gets cooler swap for a long-sleeve tee or add a chunky jumper on top with some tights and boots. Be sure to share your make with us by tagging #SimplySewingMag. YOU WILL NEED 140cm wide fabric: Dress A ■ Sizes 6–14: 1.8mx140cm ■ Sizes 16–30: 3mx140cm Dresses B and C ■ Size 6–20: 1.3mx140cm ■ Sizes 22–30: 2.1mx140cm Dress D ■ Sizes 6–20: 1.2mx140cm ■ Sizes 22–30: 1.8mx140cm ■ Iron-on interfacing: 30x90cm ■ Invisible zip: 20cm…

1 Embrace the idea of a tropical summer with this lilac leaves viscose print from Atelier Jupe’s latest fabric collection. (atelierjupe.com) 2 For a relaxed look, choose this colourful leaves viscose. The pastel shades make this fabric perfect for lightweight blouses, dresses or culottes. (atelierjupe.com) 3 Use Jen’s fabric of choice, this bold abstract print viscose, to make a stylish Lynn dress of your own. (atelierjupe.com)…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Ankara fabric: 10cmxWOF ■ Elastic, 1cm wide: 20cm ■ Safety pin or bodkin ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ WOF = width of fabric ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT The size of your scrunchies can vary. Simply add approximately 10cm or subtract roughly 5cm from the width of the rectangle accordingly. Step one Prepare your fabric (wash/steam) then measure and cut out a 14x60cm rectangle. MAKING THE SCRUNCHIE Step one With the wrong sides (WS) of the fabric facing up, fold and press 1cm to the WS along the shorter edge of the rectangle. This will help you to achieve a smoother finish when you’re at the final stage.01 Step two With right sides (RS) together, fold the…

You may have heard of bamboo fabric or organic hemp but perhaps you’re not quite sure how they measure up to your regular material bundles. Well, they are part of the sustainable fabric family which is rapidly growing. It may surprise you that the production of fabric is a process that is particularly bad for the environment on many levels, which is why these new-age materials are a thing of the future... HOW IS FABRIC MADE? “IT TAKES AROUND 7,500 LITRES OF WATER TO MAKE A SINGLE PAIR OF JEANS." When you’re in your local haberdashery browsing the rolls for your upcoming make, have you ever wondered how the material was made in the first place? The raw starting point of natural fabrics comes from a plant or animal –…

Factories have major remnants leftover after production and this surplus fabric is then sold on as deadstock. As the damage to the environment has already occurred during the process, saving it from landfill is a big tick in the sustainability box. Brands like The New Craft House, Rainbow Fabrics and Amo Threads sell deadstock material, or you can purchase handmade products that have been lovingly crafted from this leftover fabric.…

I love being able to combine colours and patterns to create unique outfits. Learning to sew had always interested me, but I didn’t start properly until I bought my first second-hand sewing machine in my 20s. Once I started, I was hooked and began making my own bags, quilts and accessories. I even set up a shop on Etsy and planned to sell quilts and baby clothes, but after some time I realised I prefer to sew as a hobby rather than as a business. I enjoyed making clothes for my children when they were small, and although I made a few things for myself, I didn’t take up dressmaking more seriously until a few years later. After discovering some great independent designers I began making most of my own…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Quilting-weight fabrics: 15x30cm each of eight patterned fabrics ■ Quilting-weight fabric: 50x50cm, for the back (ideally use one of the same fabrics that you’ve used for the patchwork) ■ Quilting-weight fabric: 30x50cm, for the sides (ideally use one of the same fabrics that you’ve used for the patchwork) ■ Lightweight wadding: 50x50cm ■ Yarn in a colour similar to your backing fabric ■ Long sewing needle ■ Stuffing: 500-750g should be enough ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED ■ Honey collection by Ruby Star Society, rubystarsociety.com. NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm. CUTTING OUT Step one From each of the eight quilting cotton pieces cut: Patchwork Square: two 13x13cm squares Step two From the backing fabric cut: Back: 46x46cm square Step three From…

SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. FABRIC WEIGHTS Use instead of pins to hold your pattern in place. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. TAILOR’S CHALKS Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. BOBBINS This forms the underside of the machine stitch. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. THREAD This forms the…

WE HAVE A WINNER Another series of The Great British Sewing Bee has finished! The talent really was incredible this year, and, as always, the sewists’ bond was so heart-warming to watch. If you’re looking to fill that gap on Wednesday evenings now, read our interviews with the judges at gathered.how/sewing-bee, and visit gathered.how/sewing-bee-episodes for challenge pattern recommendations. MADE TO MEASURE Achieve your perfect fit with Hobbycraft’s new range of made-to-measure patterns! Simply register at madetomeasure.hobbycraft.co.uk, pick your design from the 157 patterns on offer, input your measurements, download and print your pattern and get sewing! HIP, HIP... ‘Hooray’ for sunny days, birthdays, homecomings, and Fridays – from now on everything is a cause for celebration with this uplifting DIY bunting! This kit is one of 12 new sewing projects…

Whether you’re looking to take a class in person or want to learn from the comfort of your home, there are so many out there. MAKE A BOMBER JACKET Learn how to make a bomber jacket with Made My Wardrobe’s online course with Domestika! Sign up at domestika.org to get a PDF pattern as well as 2.5 hours of video tutorial from Lydia Higginson. Lydia will also talk you through ways to customise your jacket, including decorative quilting and appliqué. FESTIVAL OF QUILTS 2022 18–21 AUGUST The annual four-day celebration of patchwork and quilting is returning to the NEC in Birmingham. With workshops, exhibitions and plenty of shopping stalls, it’s a chance to meet experts and fellow sewists. Enter code SIMPSEWPR22 at the checkout for £1.50 off (expires 17 August).thefestivalofquilts.co.uk…

LANYARD If you’re heading off to a festival or event this year, keep your pass and programme to hand with a lanyard made in your favourite fabric. For day-to-day use, clip your keys or office pass on. This is such a simple project, and a really fun addition to festival-themed parties! NAPKINS Eco-friendly and oh-so-sweet, these fabric napkins will come in handy for picnics and al fresco dining all summer long. Make a matching set from a pack of fat quarters for a quick and easy sew for the whole family. You could even personalise with monograms. DRAWSTRING BAG Not only does this bag look lovely, it’s super practical too. The patchwork squares are backed with wadding for extra protection for your bits and bobs, and the inner zipped pocket…

Founded in 2015 by sisters Petra and Eva, Atelier Jupe is a Belgian fabric and pattern company which focuses on creating elegant and feminine designs for the modern sewist. From vibrant florals to contemporary monochromes, their fabric and pattern selection complement each other perfectly. Search Atelier Jupe’s new fabric and pattern ranges online at atelierjupe.com. As a treat for Simply Sewing readers, Atelier Jupe is offering 20% off of all PDF patterns using code SIMPLYSEWING20. This offer is valid until 5 August 2022. Happy shopping!…

KALLE SHIRT DRESS This gorgeous button-up pattern from Closet Core is the ideal introduction to asymmetry with three options to choose from. View A makes a cropped shirt with a wide-faced hem, view B creates a tunic inspired by classic menswear, and view C makes a stylish shirt dress with a high-low hem. Kalle also features a subtly curved yoke and short dolman sleeves with cuffs, and it can be personalised with a standard or band collar, optional pockets, inverted or box pleats and a choice of button plackets. closetcorepatterns.com EASY BREEZY This loose-fitting silhouette is perfect for warm summer days. UP AND DOWN When made in view C, Kalle features an on-trend high-low skirt. CHOOSE YOUR LENGTH Pick from a cropped shirt, a button-up tunic or a longer dress.…

Organic cotton – Organic cotton is grown and made in a way that’s kinder to the environment with no synthetic pesticides, and having no nasties on it means less water is needed during the cleansing process. Organic hemp – The stalks of the cannabis sativa plant can be utilised for their fibres. Once it has been pressed it has a similar texture to cotton but it is much more durable, making it have a longer life. Organic bamboo – The thing that’s unique about the creation of bamboo fabric is the speed at which it can be produced because of how quickly natural bamboo grows. There are still strides to be made when it comes to the sustainability of the processing of bamboo but it has a lot of potential.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ A loose pair of trousers for measuring such as pyjamas. ■ Main fabric: 5.25 yards ■ Zip* ■ Interfacing: 12x35in ■ Tailor’s chalk ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance 1cm. ■ We traced our trousers straight on to the fabric but you may find it easier to trace to paper first. Our pieces are approximately 1 yard in length but if you are taller or shorter you may need to add to or subtract from this length. ■ *The zip length will need to be your waist to hip measurement. FABRICS USED ■ Similar fabric available from dovetailed.co.uk. PREPARATION If you’re unsure about how the waist of the trousers might fit, take your waist measurements and mark this directly onto your…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 1mx140cm ■ Lining fabric: 1mx140cm ■ Elastic, 3cm wide: equal to your waist measurement ■ Tailor’s chalk ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. ■ This guide will make a skirt in UK sizes 6–16 using 1m of fabric. If you would like to make a larger or longer skirt, create your pattern prior to purchasing your fabric. FABRICS USED ■ Main: Atelier Brunette Canopy in Ochre viscose crepe (1230666) from minerva.com. ■ Lining: Minerva Core Range, 100% viscose crepe in Mustard (1257062) from minerva.com. MEASUREMENTS NEEDED FOR THE SKIRT Step one Measure your waist at the narrowest point, your hips at the widest point and make a note of your desired length for the…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Wide-brimmed sun hat ■ Perle cotton embroidery thread, size 5 ■ Lightweight tracing paper ■ Pencil ■ Embroidery needle ■ Embroidery scissors NOTES ■ DMC Perle cotton colours: 4200, 4214, Standard 742, and Standard 943. ■ Download the template from gathered.how/ss-templates. ■ For helpful guides to the stitches used in this project, head to gathered.how/how-to-embroider. TRANSFERRING THE DESIGN Step one Trace the flower pattern onto lightweight tracing paper. Trim the paper down so it will fit on the brim of the hat. The flower would also look cute on the crown of the hat!01 Step two Tack the traced pattern onto your hat with large tacking stitches around the edges.02 EMBROIDERING THE DESIGN Step one Thread your needle with a doubled piece of red Perle cotton…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…