Innholdsfortegnelse for 93 i Simply Sewing

For me, the rays of sunshine couldn't come soon enough and I am eagerly awaiting the chance to ditch my winter coat in favour of a light jacket - Linda Mafuba's duster (p58) is going to make a great transitional piece. If you're looking for some me-made garment inspiration for 2022 then look no further than Rumana Dawood's spring pattern round-up (p48) and John Scott's capsule wardrobe tips (p16). Talking of capsule wardrobe, mine wouldn't be complete without a midi length skirt or two, so I'll be adding Alice Irvine's self-draft project (p68) to my list of makes. How about you? ›SimplySewingMag…

"I’m Raquel, I’m a 64-year old Mexican-American expat living in Taipei. When my older sister Bea taught me to sew when I was 16, I didn’t have much use for it, but after a 40-year break I’m back at it with a vengeance. After I retired from teaching in the United States nine years ago, I moved here with two suitcases of ready-to-wear clothes. When I went shopping, I had trouble finding clothes in my size, style and budget. I soon realised that if I wanted to update my wardrobe, I would need to relearn my sewing skills. It’s been an adventure! I went from a recreational shopper in the US to a recreational sewer here. Retiring in Taipei gave me the inspiration and the time to renew my interest…

SEW CREATIVE CLASSES Whether you’re looking to master stretch fabric, try machine embroidery, get familiar with your overlocker or sew an entire quilt in a day, Sew Creative in Petersfield will have a workshop for you. Their comprehensive selection of classes run regularly, but they’re popular, so book yourself in soon! sewcreative.org.uk HER MAJESTY, ROYAL SCHOOL OF NEEDLEWORK, 11, 18 & 25 JUNE 2022 The Royal School of Needlework has created special online embroidery classes to celebrate Queen Elizabeth’s upcoming Platinum Jubilee. Join one of their online workshops to stitch an image of the Queen against a Union Jack background, with a bead- and diamanté-embellished crown. royal-needlework.org.uk…

BUNTING Decorate their room with some cheerful shaped bunting! This project is lovely and simple and would make a quick and easy gift when that inevitable flurry of children’s birthday parties arrives, or you could even let children hand sew their own as a party idea! HANGING STORAGE If you’re short on floor space, hanging storage baskets are a great way of keeping things organised without filling up the room. You could also hang one in the wardrobe for socks and tights and on the back of the door for their hats and scarves. STORAGE TUB Toys, books, cushions, cuddlies or even laundry can all be neatly stored away in this fabric tub that they won’t mind having on display. Why not play around with dimensions and make a set…

1 Always take accurate measurements with the Sew to Grow Self-Measuring Tape, £12, from sewmesunshine.co.uk. 2 This Jeans Hardware Kit from Kylie and the Machine contains all the gear you need to construct the perfect pair of denims. Priced £24, fabricgodmother.co.uk. 3 Work through even the toughest of fabrics with these Hemline Jeans needles, £2.55 per pack, thesewingcafe.co.uk. 4 Fasten up with a set of Hemline Hook and Bar fastenings, priced £1.19 from sewessential.co.uk. 5 Turn and stick tricky hems in no time with this Heat n’ Bond Hem Adhesive, priced £2.40 from amazon.co.uk.…

The Midnight Sun bag pattern from In Complete Stitches (incompletestitches.com) will be your new go-to. Whether you’re running errands, popping to the shops or heading to the office, you can fit all of your essentials in this roomy tote bag. If you’re new to bag making, this design is a fab place to get started and build your confidence. You’ll sew pockets, a lining and a boxed base for a simple tote that looks anything but basic. Once you’ve mastered this bag, check out the other creative designs on offer at In Complete Stitches!…

YOU WILL NEED Mainfabricinrustor burnt orange: 50x143cm Off-white fabric: 50x143cm Black fabric: 20x20cm White cotton 5mm cord: 3m Iron-on tape Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES Seamallowanceis1cmunless otherwise stated. FABRICS USED CanvasinBurntOrangeand Vanilla from Cotton cord from CUTTING OUT Step one From the burnt orange fabric cut: Main Bag: two 38x28cm Tabs: two 7x4cm Outer Ears: four triangles Step two From the off-white fabric cut: Face: one (draw and use as a template) Inner Ears: two smaller triangles Step three From the black fabric cut: Nose: one small triangle for the nose Eyes: two small circles APPLIQUÉING THE BAG Step one Appliqué the Inner Ear on to the Outer Ear. Sew that and a second Outer Ear right sides (RS) together on two sides. Turn…

Lydia Higginson is sitting behind a sewing machine at Made My Wardrobe (mademywardrobe.com) HQ, a Grade II listed building in central Bristol. The noise of the buzzing machine competes with loud Brazilian music playing on the stereo in this warm and cosy studio, the sun streaming in through huge windows. Although happy to be where she is today, none of this was in Lydia’s life plan. So how did it happen? “I didn’t intend for Made My Wardrobe to be a business,” she explains. “This all started out as a personal creative project which has just naturally grown into a business because I wanted to share all the things I had learnt along the way.” “MAKING MY OWN CLOTHES AND THEN PASSING THOSE SKILLS ON IS THE BEST PART OF…

The Zadie Jumpsuit Paper Theory Patterns This relaxed jumpsuit comes with three sleeve options and is a simple make with no buttons or zips! Available in UK sizes 6–28 (US 4–26). Farrah Jumpsuit Sew Over It This fun boiler suit gives us Land Girls vibes! The pattern is cinched at the waist for a figure hugging fit. Available in UK sizes 6–20 (US 4–18). The Lin Jumpsuit Selkie Patterns This elegant jumpsuit features a square neckline and three trouser length options: straight cut, capri and playsuit! Available in UK 6–22 (US 4–20).…

EXTRACT YOU WILL NEED ■ One FQ canvas for the outer ■ One FQ quilting cotton for the lining ■ One FQ of Style-Vil sew-in foam interfacing ■ Zip: 23cm for the main pouch ■ Zip: 10cm for the front pocket ■ Baker’s twine or ribbon for the zip pulls ■ Bias binding: 60cm ■ Zip foot ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowances are 5mm. CUTTING OUT Step one From the outer fabric cut: Front and Back Outer: two 16.5x25.5cm Step two From the lining fabric cut: Front and Back Lining: two 16.5x25.5cm Zip Pocket Lining: 14x25.5cm There are no cutting notes for the foam interfacing. Instructions will be given as we go. PREPARATION Step one Use a ruler or cup or a similar round…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Lightweight cardigan ■ Stranded cotton in a matching shade(s) ■ Contrasting thread ■ Embroidery hoop, 5in ■ Tapestry needle (with a large eye and rounded point) ■ Embroidery scissors ■ Basic sewing kit PREPARATION Step one Thread a needle with a single strand of thread in a colour that contrasts with your cardigan. Outline the area you want to add embroidered texture with temporary tacking stitches. For this shoulder, our outline has wavy edges for a more organic look.01 Step two Place your cardigan in the embroidery hoop. Position the hoop in the centre of the area you’ve just tacked, being careful not to stretch the material.02 STITCHING THE DESIGN Step one Cut a piece of stranded cotton that’s roughly 1m long. Separate out two strands…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

FIONA HESFORD Behind the design for this month’s tiered tea dress on page 20 is Fiona Hesford of Sewgirl - a Sewing Street frequenter and Simply Sewing favourite. Just like all of Fiona’s other patterns, this exclusive design is contemporary, stylish and lovely to sew. IN COMPLETE STITCHES Once you’ve made Sarah Jolley’s Midnight Sun bag on page 47, we guarantee you’ll be heading to her website to make more of her unique designs! Be sure to share your bags with us using #SimplySewingMag and tag @incompletestitches. PAPER THEORY PATTERNS We’re so excited to be featuring a trouser pattern this month, and even more so to work with the designer behind the legendary Zadie Jumpsuit! Tara Viggo’s Miller Trousers on page 42 are sure to become one of your favourite…

JUNO JACKET, PAPERCUT PATTERNS Finish off any outfit with this stylish lightweight jacket, complete with a slightly cropped dolman sleeve and drop shoulder. The waist tie can be tied at the front for a cinched waist, or tie it in a delicate bow at the back for an additional detail. Look at the size of those pockets, too! Available in UK sizes 6–20 and 16–34, papercutpatterns.com. CROSSOVER TOP AND DRESS, ELLIE AND MAC Sew long or short dolman sleeves with this versatile dress and top pattern, modelled here by @sincerely_shantelle There are so many ways to make and style this crossover design, take a look at the pattern page at ellieandmac.com for inspiration. Available in sizes XS–6XL. LOTTIE DRESS, TOP AND TUNIC, CHRISTINE HAYNES Update your wardrobe with something comfy, practical…

NATURAL DYEING Kathryn Davey (£15.99, Hardie Grant Books) Have you experimented with natural dyeing yet? It’s such a satisfying and rewarding way of adding colour and giving new life to tired garments. In this book, Kathryn Davey (kathryndavey. com) takes you through the whole process, from choosing and preparing your fabrics to foraging for dyes and trying out different dyeing methods, followed by eight projects for your home and wardrobe. FUROSHIKI Aurélie Le Marec (£12.99, Search Press) Furoshiki is a traditional Japanese wrapping cloth, typically used as a sustainable method for giftwrapping, fashion, carrying or decoration. Using the 50 furoshiki techniques included in this book and just a square of fabric, Aurélie shows you how to create practical bags and wrap anything and everything – from books to guitars and…

JESSA TROUSERS AND SHORTS This ultra-cool pattern from Tilly and the Buttons will bring a real seventies feel to any outfit and includes options for both trousers and cropped shorts. The trousers feature wide, gently flared legs, whilst the shorts are finished with a turned-up hem. Both options feature a flattering high waist with a curved waistline and back darts. shoptillyandthebuttons.com Fancy making your own? Use SIMPLYJESSA20 for 20% off this pattern from 16 March until 17 April!…

1 START SIMPLE With so many different elements to consider, making your first pair of trousers can seem like a daunting task to take on. But fear not – with a little care and attention, even absolute beginners can create a perfectly well-fitted pair of slacks from scratch. For your first try, it’s wise to stick to a simple pattern that doesn’t feature too many additional design elements – leggings (or jeggings) are a great jumping-off point, as they’re made from stretchy fabric and usually don’t have too elements to them. Whilst multiple pockets, pleats and other fancy touches can be fun, they can make adjustments tricky later down the line. 2 MEASURE UP As with any dressmaking project, taking accurate body measurements is the key to getting great results.…

1 CAMBRIA DUSTER fridaypatterncompany.com As the weather warms up, I’ll be glad to pack away my heavy winter outerwear and make way for my lighter coats. The Cambria Duster from Friday Pattern Company is the perfect midway option to tide you over until a coat-free summer. It’s unlined so will be lightweight enough to keep you from boiling if the sun does make a surprise appearance, but warm enough for the cool evenings (and let’s be honest, daytime too.) 2 SABINA SKIRT thelittlepomegranate.co.uk Much like autumn, dressing for spring is all about layering and the Sabina Skirt is perfect for this. I know it’s my own pattern, but it is such a staple in my wardrobe, I couldn’t miss it out! This would look great sewn up in a lightweight…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cotton fabric: 1mx140cm ■ Lining fabric: 25x140cm ■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing: 25x140cm ■ Small buttons: x3 ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Cotton wax print, quilting cotton, linen, cotton blends. FABRICS USED ■ A River Runs Through It African print wax block fabric from Dovetailed, dovetailed.co.uk. CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Front Bodice: one on fold Back Bodice: one pair Front Skirt: one Back Skirt: one Top Collar: one pair Sleeve: one pair Back Placket: one Step two From the lining fabric cut: Front Bodice Lining: one on fold Back Bodice Lining: one pair Under Collar: one pair Sleeve Lining: one pair Step three From the interfacing cut: Back…

Name: Suna Mantori Instagram handle: @threadbitchbrighton Pattern used: Blanca Flight Suit by Closet Core Patterns Fabric: Robert Kaufman Ventana Twill Fabric stockist: minerva.com I’ve been wanting to make a fitted boiler suit which was easily customisable and had a sleek, simple design – this pattern fit the mark! I’ve seen some incredible versions of the Blanca on Instagram which inspired me to create my own. I love the flattering shape, slash pockets, ankle tab for the option of a tapered leg, but most of all the zip closure! FABRICS AND TOOLS I wanted to make the suit from a sturdy fabric to give it a utility feel, and so I went for the highly lauded Robert Kaufman Ventana Twill. The quality is superb and the choice of colours enormous. It…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 2mx140cm (see notes) ■ Iron-on interfacing: 10x90cm (see notes) ■ 2.5cm wide elastic: see INSERTING THE ELASTIC section ■ Tailor’s chalk or an erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm. ■ Rather than drafting the pattern directly onto fabric, try using dot and cross paper or the back of wrapping paper so you can make the skirt again. ■ Exact amount of fabric, interfacing and elastic required will depend on your measurements. We recommend calculating the size of your pattern pieces before beginning so you can ensure you have the correct materials. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Aim for light- to medium-weight fabric such as cotton, lawn, viscose or chambray. DRAFTING THE PATTERN Step one Front Waistband:…

In this workshop Simply Sewing’s Senior Technical Editor Roisin walks you through the process of inserting both regular and invisible zips. The most frequent questions we receive from our readers are about zip insertion. How do you know which type of zip to use? How do you insert a zip neatly? Which presser foot do I need? These are great questions, and ones that we asked ourselves too when we were making our first garments! In this workshop, we guide you through choosing a zip for your pattern, inserting a zip and some handy accessories that you can add to your toolbox! CHOOSING A ZIP Zips come in many forms, from invisible zips for dresses, to open-ended metal zips for heavyweight jackets. The type of zip you need will depend…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Neutral cotton fabric ■ Stranded cotton in pink, black, brown, green, light purple, and bright colours for the carrots ■ Toy stuffing ■ Embroidery hoop ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download and print the template and embroidery guide from gathered.how/ss-templates. ■ Visit kirikipress.com/pages/ stitch-library for a free guide to all of the stitches used in this project. PREPARATION Step one Trace the pattern onto your fabric. Step two Place the pattern (right side) RS up in the embroidery hoop. EMBROIDERING THE DESIGN Step one Using three strands of the brown stranded cotton and laid work, embroider the basket weave. Step two Using one strand of stranded cotton and the embroidery guide for colour reference, use vertical satin stitch to fill the carrots.…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

KICK BACK For lazy days at home, sunny afternoons in the garden or last-minute sleepovers, this lounge chair will come in handy all year round for the whole family. The bolster cushions can be arranged however you like, so whether you’re sat reading or lying down for an afternoon nap, you can ensure maximum comfort. Find the pattern for this set (9035700) at selfmade.com. PRECIOUS PEARL The new Pearl cardigan from Tilly and the Buttons is the perfect finishing touch for any outfit. Sew this stylish wrap cardigan with long or short sleeves, or opt for a statement layer with balloon sleeves. Available in UK sizes 6–34, shoptillyandthebuttons.com. HOP TO IT W Highlight Crafts has launched Lemon Lane fabrics, in collaboration with Two Red Robins, just in time for the…

Q I want to create a capsule wardrobe for spring/summer. What should I make and where do I start? A What a FABULOUS idea! When I was on ITV’s This Morning there were three areas that I championed – beautiful clothes for more voluptuous ladies, the John Scott Column of Colour and the ever-popular Capsule Wardrobe. For those of you who are new to the term ‘capsule wardrobe’, well this is what eco fashion blog Sustainably Chic (sustainably-chic.com) says about it: “A capsule wardrobe is a limited selection of interchangeable clothing pieces that complement each other. These are often classic pieces that do not go out of style and are primarily composed of neutral colours. A capsule wardrobe allows you to create a variety of different outfits with a small…

This exclusive tea dress design comes from Fiona Hesford of Sewgirl. Shop Fiona’s other lovely designs at sewgirlintheuk.etsy.com. YOU WILL NEED ■ Maxi dress: 2.5mx150cm (non-directional print) or 2.8mx150cm (directional print) ■ Midi dress: 2.6mx150cm (non-directional print) or 2.3mx150cm (directional print) ■ Invisible zip: 56cm long ■ Lightweight interfacing: 20cm ■ Cuff elastic: 50cm of 6mm wide elastic (version A) or a reel of shirring elastic (version B) NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Lightweight fabric with good drape, such as viscose challis, cotton or lawn. FABRICS USED ■ Blush Blooms Marlie-Care lawn, Lady McElroy, minerva.com. ■ Black and white viscose challis (LX2243), minerva.com. FABRIC INSPIRATION BOLD DESIGN WEAR IT WITH SWEET TREATS PSST: Turn the page for fabric and styling inspiration. Share your Tara Tea Dress…

1 JUTLAND TROUSERS This design from Thread Theory features a pair of classic straight-leg trousers with a relaxed fit, designed to be roomy enough for a full range of movement but with back darts to shape the seat. The pattern includes a range of add-ons including different pockets, knee and hem reinforcements and even a lining to create waterproof coveralls. threadtheory.ca 2 PAPER BAG TROUSERS Textured paper bag waists have made a big comeback in the last few years and this number from Trend Patterns makes a real feature of the fun design element. With an elasticated waist and faux fly detail, they’re as comfy as they are stylish. trendpatterns.co.uk 3 LUNA JOGGERS The comfy Luna joggers from Bella Loves Patterns can be dressed up or down, with a high-waisted…

Easy to sew and oh-so easy to wear, the Miller Trousers from Paper Theory Patterns (papertheorypatterns.com) will be your new go-to garment. Jumpers, T-shirts, shirts and even tunics, these will pair so well with everything you own. Once you get a hang of the pattern you can also make a jersey pair for lounge days. YOU WILL NEED Fabric: ■ Sizes 6–18: 2.5mx115cm or 2mx150cm ■ Sizes 20–28: 3mx115cm or 2.5mx150cm ■ Elastic, 32mm wide: see size chart on the envelope for length ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is included and is 1cm throughout, except for the hem edge which is 4cm. ■ Version A has an elasticated waist. Version B has a tie waist. ■ Version B only requires fabric and thread. However,…

Lightweight but slippery fabrics are a dream to wear but can be difficult to sew with. Here are my top tips: 1 Make sure your cutting surface is big enough to have the fabric laid out smoothly without it hanging over the edges as that will pull the fabric off the grain. I prefer cutting it on the floor. 2 I use my rotary cutter and a mat to cut slippery fabrics as it doesn’t shift the fabric as I cut. If you prefer scissors, make sure they’re sharp before starting. 3 Pins or weights? I use both to make sure my fabric doesn’t move around under the pattern piece. Use sharp pins so they don’t snag on the fabric. 4 Use the right type of needle e.g. microtex/sharp, and…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Viscose crepe: 145x250cm ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. ■ We have used a thin tape to demonstrate the markings in our step images. FABRICS USED ■ Avena Sun Yellow viscose crepe, Églantine & Zoé, from Guthrie and Ghani, guthrie-ghani.co.uk. MEASUREMENTS NEEDED Step one Take the following measurements and make a note of them here: Bust: Waist: Hip: Step two For the next measurements you will need to find your shoulder neck point (SNP), this is where your shoulder meets your neck. SNP to bust (for armhole position): SNP to hip (for pocket placement): SNP to desired length: THE BACK PANEL Step one Divide your widest measurement (usually, but not always, the hip measurement) by four.…

1 Try this beautiful cotton-linen blend from Ruby Star Society for a cool 70s inspired flight suit. We love the retro daisy print! rubystarsociety.com 2 Go for a bold look with a solid colour such as this gorgeous burgundy viscose from Églantine and Zoé. The delicious jewel tone will take you from day to night when you’re in a hurry! eglantine-zoe.fr 3 This linen-cotton blend from Cotton and Steel makes a bold statement for a stylish boiler suit. cottonandsteelfabrics.com…

When my then fiancé Jordan and I got engaged in October 2018, we planned for a two-year engagement. I was working full time and finishing a year-long yoga teacher training certification programme, and Jordan was about to start a new job. We picked 24 October 2020 because, and I quote, ‘Let’s not make it stressful and rush.’ Famous last words! Over the course of 2019, we found a venue, asked our friends to join our wedding party, and secured a photographer. I began to shop for fabrics, not just to make my wedding outfit, but also to make dresses for my bridesmaids. I was excited for an autumn wedding with rich jewel tones for my bridesmaids. I ordered dozens of fabric samples, showed my bridesmaids all kinds of dress patterns,…

MEMORY BEAR TOY ACTUAL SIZE EMBROIDERED BUNNY ACTUAL SIZE HOOP ACTUAL SIZE Extracted from Sisters Gonna Stitch by Cotton Clara (Harper Collins, £10.99) Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

“I’ve never sewn basic, simple clothing. I dream big and that has led me to sew elaborate garments that take me months to complete. This patchwork, quilted, reversible vest is my all-time favourite make to date! I meticulously cut fabric scraps down into trapezoids and then laboriously pieced them together to make the quilt top. I wanted the vest to be worn on both sides, so I repeated the process with blue fabric scraps for the reverse. I even created my own bias binding from an old pair of trousers! "Utilising scraps has been an important part of my sustainability journey. I could’ve easily sewn this vest using new yardage, but constructing the garment entirely from scraps meant more to me and furthers my commitment to reducing waste. I collected…