Innholdsfortegnelse for 66 i Simply Sewing

We’re settling into 2020 now and this issue is packed with both short-and-satisfying and skill-boosting projects for those who may have fallen off the wagon with their new year’s sewing resolutions. This month’s cover project brings two wardrobe must-haves that can be dressed up or down for any occasion. We’ve gone full beach-mode with our wonderfully summery travel accessories – and speaking of beach, have you tried sewing with scuba fabric? We’re talking about the double-knit kind rather than the wetsuit you may be envisioning, but the fabric is so versatile there’s plenty of scope for seaside attire. Share your makes using #simplysewingmag – we love seeing what you’re making. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

TWICE AS NICE Fans of Tilly and the Buttons' classic Cleo pinafore dress love their latest pattern – Bobbi – which can be made as a pinafore dress or skirt! Perfect for all occasions, there are three pocket designs to choose from, and as always the pattern comes with easy instructions and sewing tips, with a size range of UK 6–24. Buy for £14.50 from shop.tillyandthebuttons.com POURING PRACTICALITY Featuring dolman sleeves with diagonal cutout cuffs, the Maxwell Raincoat and Jacket from DG Patterns is a wardrobe staple. Choose from two different lengths and pocket designs. With a raincoat this stylish, we're not quite saying you'll wish for rain, but it's close. www.dgpatterns.com GOOD FOR THE SOLE W Looking for something new to try? Why not learn a new skill at…

19 MARCH The Faces and Figures in Stitch exhibition at Hampton Court Palace finishes on 19 March. Make sure you book a tour of the Royal School of Needlework showcase before it closes. www.royal-needlework.org.uk 21 MARCH Unleash your creativity at a free-machine embroidery class from The Makery. Taking place at Sofa.com in Bath. www.themakery.co.uk 4 APRIL Make yourself a cosy lap quilt at the flying geese workshop taking place at The Sewing Studio in Cornwall. www.thesewingstudio.co.uk 8 APRIL Head to the bargello embroidery class for beginners at Tea and Crafting in London. www.teaandcrafting.co.uk…

1 WHAT IS SCUBA? By now you've probably got a good idea of what scuba fabric can be used for – but what is it actually made from? First of all, despite the name, it is not the same as the thick neoprene that is used to make wetsuits. It's a double knit fabric created from a mixture of polyester and spandex, with each of the two layers knitted in a different direction, which gives it its silky smooth texture. 2 PICK YOUR PATTERN WISELY Scuba is a knit fabric but holds very different properties to its thinner counterparts such as jersey or Lycra. When picking a pattern, make sure to look for one that will make the most of scuba's strong, structural nature. Pleated waistlines and bodycon styles are…

“Visible mending is a huge trend right now” Would you love to be able to sew your own clothes? Lots of Sew Over It's newer customers tell us they've been inspired to start sewing after discovering the negative effect the fashion industry has on the world, both in terms of the environment and the people who work in it. If you'd like to move away from fast fashion, sewing your own clothes is a fantastic way to put yourself in control and reduce your impact. Not sure where to start? I'm bringing you my top five tips to building your sewing skills whilst creating a stylish wardrobe, all in a conscious, sustainable way. Let's get inspired! IDENTIFY YOUR STYLE Before you begin sewing, it's worth spending some time thinking about…

1 Specialist tape can be pressed on to the raw edges of chiffon to prevent fraying or distorting as you work with the fabric. It can help to lay the pattern piece underneath the fabric as you press. We like to use Vlieseline Bias Tape available at www.ladysewandsew.co.uk 2 If your lightweight fabric shifts around as you are trying to cut it out, sandwich the fabric between two layers of tissue paper, place your pattern on top then cut through all the layers. 3 Denim needles are used for stitching denim, canvas and other heavyweight, tightly woven fabrics. 4 If you are stitching a heavyweight fabric and your sewing machine is struggling to stitch over bulky seams you can purchase a bulky seam foot raiser tool such as the Hemline…

1 Apply the slogan to the front, back or even the sleeves of your sweatshirt, Pink Ladies anyone? 2 Experiment with using alternative threads or yarns for a different effect. 3 Use a fabric and threads in the same colour as your sweatshirt for a more textural/tonal effect. 4 Appliqué a friend's name or favourite saying to a sweatshirt for a meaningful birthday gift. 5 Choose a French slogan such as 'Très Chic', 'Magnifique' or 'Beauté' for a stylish nod to the fashion capital!…

1 Play with the sleeve length; shorten for summer or lengthen for cooler months. 2 Use the same techniques to create a top, a mini dress or a maxi dress. 3 The 'looseness' of your finished dress is dependent on the fit of the template top you use and the distance from the garment edge you trace your new underarm/side seams. Make a looser or tighter fitting dress if you like! 4 Add inseam or patch pockets to add an extra function for everyday wear. 5 Add belt loops to the waist and create a simple belt from leftover fabric.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 30x147cm (12x57in) ■ Lining fabric: 60x112cm (24x44in) ■ Faux leather: 5x25cm (2x10in) ■ Wadding: 50x90cm (20x36in) ■ Foam interfacing: 50x72cm (20x28in) ■ Zip: 41cm (16in), for the washbag ■ Zip: 18cm (7in), for the pocket ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 5mm (¼in) CUTTING OUT Use the templates to cut the following pieces Step one From the main fabric cut: Outer Front/Back: two Outer Zip Panel Front/ Back: two Outer Base: one Step two From the lining fabric cut: Lining Front/Back: two Lining Zip Panel Front/Back: two Lining Base: one Zip Pocket Lining: one Internal Pockets: four Binding: cut and join strips, 3.5cm (13/8in) wide to make a total length of 2m (2yds) Step three From the faux…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Plain natural heavy weight canvas: 1mx30cm (32x11in) ■ Dowel: 28cm (11in), 8mm–1cm thick ■ Macramé cord: 40cm (16in) ■ Stranded cottons in black, pale blue, mustard, mid-green ■ Layout or tracing paper (2 sheets A4) ■ Pencil ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download the templates from www.gathered.how/ss-templates PREPARATION Step one Download, print and cut out the templates for the hanging. CUTTING OUT Step one From the canvas cut: Wall hanging: Lay out your canvas, measure and cut a rectangle 80x26cm (31½x10¼in).01 MAKING THE PANEL Step one Lay your canvas out in portrait position. Mark a point at the centre of the bottom narrow end. Next, mark a point 13cm (5¼in) up from that end on each of the long sides. Draw lines…

SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. FABRIC WEIGHTS Use instead of pins to hold your pattern in place. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. TAILOR’S CHALKS Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. BOBBINS This forms the underside of the machine stitch. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. THREAD This forms the…

It's all starting to look more positive now the sunshine is making a welcomed appearance. I can't wait for summer and the chance to use this amazing travel accessories set (p22) – those fresh fabric prints are just the best! Talking of playful prints, I wish The Joy Dress (p46), designed by Wild Things Dresses, came in my size – this rainbow-adorned A-line frock is happiness personified! And for your everyday wardrobes I'm thrilled to bring you The Annie Blouse and Ivy Skirt (p36), an exclusive set from Sew Over It. I'm planning to make a blouse in lemon yellow. Well, it is my favourite colour after all...…

JAZZ JUMPSUIT, READY TO SEW This jumpsuit is so comfortable you’ll want to wear it every day. And the good news is, you pretty much can! This pattern comes with an impressive 82  variations so you’ll be able to sew as you mean to go on. Choose light and supple fabrics to make this jumpsuit move effortlessly with you. Available at www.readytosew.fr MCCALL'S 8009 JUMPSUIT The flared sleeves on this jumpsuit scream glam. Take it up a notch in luxury silk or satin or go for lightweight and laidback in rayon. With plenty of variations to choose from, this is perfect for the advanced beginner. Pattern available in UK sizes 6–22. www.sewdirect.com AVENIR JUMPSUIT, FRIDAY PATTERN COMPANY We are in love with how comfortable this jumpsuit is. Wear it with…

TILLY AND THE BUTTONS: MAKE IT SIMPLE Tilly Walnes (£25, Quadrille Publishing) Got an afternoon spare? Tilly Walnes, one of the first ever Sewing Bee contestants is also well known in sewing circles for her Tilly and the Buttons blog. Here she's put together some super-speedy projects that can be finished in just a few hours. Choose from six dressmaking patterns, from which you can make 24 easy fit, fuss-free items. www.hardiegrant.com DECORATING WITH FABRIC Kate French & Katherine Sorrell (£19.99, Ryland Peters & Small) Fabric fans looking for ways to use up their stash should check out this new title. The authors provide heaps of ideas on how you can create new looks for every room using homestyle makes, featuring some unique touches such as using vintage grain sacks…

LUGGAGE TAGS  Because no adventure begins with lost luggage and endless queing at the baggage carousel. These tags make spotting your luggage super easy and add a dash of fun to your bags. NECK PILLOW  Who said neck pillows had to be purely functional? Relax in style with this cute and comfy neck pillow. Use the handy ribbon tie to carry it or to keep it in place whilst you snooze. WEEKEND DUFFLE This is the perfect 'grab and go' bag for a weekend getaway. Fill it with magazines, sunnies and suncream for poolside relaxing, or use it as a handy portable craft bag – we can just imagine knitting needles and colourful yarn poking out the top. EYE MASK Nothing says 'do not disturb' in a more playful way…

I’ve really been inspired by the mending and refashioning world over the past few months, so much so that I’ve pledged to rework an unloved item from my wardrobe into something new each month of this year. One of my first projects was to shorten my Ava skirt to mini-length so I could wear it with tights for winter, and I’m pleased to say it’s now on heavy rotation in my wardrobe! You can keep up with my refashioning adventures on Sew Over It’s very own YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/sewoverit…

CUTE AS A BUTTON Add cute colourful buttons to fasten the pinafore. PATCH POCKET Add a decorative pocket, perfect for stashing snacks. SKILLS STRETCH Customise the dress with your own appliqué design. The Joy Dress, designed by Kirsty Hartley of Wild Things Dresses (www.wildthingsdresses.com), is happiness personified! Whilst it looks adorable in a bright cord, it would also look great in denim or cotton canvas. Using a thicker more durable fabric makes this garment as servisible for outdoor play and messy nursery days as it is for dresssing-up. What's best, the A-line shape gives you plenty of space on the front to play around with different appliqué shapes, colours, and accessories. Let your imagination run wild and create a bespoke outfit for the little adventurer in your life! Don't forget…

This roomy and versatile tote bag (one of your four pattern gifts this issue) is the perfect accessory to hold everything from grocery shopping and library books to crafting must-haves and baby changing essentials. The zips and pockets present plenty of chances to stretch your skills and make it totally fit for purpose. This tote works in denim,anvas and linen, but you easily utilise spare furnishing fabrics too. Whatever you choose, personalise it to the max! Find more bag-making inspiration at www.gathered.how/simplysewing * GIFTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. SOME PAPER GIFTS ONLY AVAILABLE ON UK NEWSSTAND.…

Given the fact that you’ve got this magazine in your hands, chances are you’re a keen sewer, but can you remember what first ignited your love of needlecraft or enamoured you to embroidery? For many people, their passion for craft arose from the positive impact it had on their mental health. “There are so many benefits to taking up a hobby, with science substantiating the positive impact they have both physically and mentally,” says Edward Griffith founder of www.lovecrafts.com. “Some benefits are obvious, but there are also hidden ones, like the opportunity to practice mindfulness.” We’ve heard talk of mindfulness for a good few years, and while it may conjure up images of yoga classes and adult colouring books, sewing is among the most mindful practices out there, as it…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Used garment to refashion such as a shirt or blouse ■ Bow tie clasp with slider: 19mm (¾in) ■ Iron-on interfacing ■ Loop turner or chopstick ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Main Bow: two 25x14cm (97/8x5½in) Bow Centre: 4x8cm (15/8x31/8in) Neck Strap: 5x55cm (2x215/8in) Step two From the interfacing cut: Main Bow Interfacing: two 25x14cm (97/8x5½in) Bow Centre Interfacing: 4x8cm (15/8x31/8in) MAKING THE BOW TIE Step one Press the Main Bow Interfacing to the wrong side (WS) of the Main Bow fabric, repeat with the Bow Centre and corresponding interfacing piece. Step two Take one of the Main Bow pieces and measure the centre point…

Leading by example is a trait that comes naturally to designer and sewist Fiona Hesford. Her advice for budding crafters is “not to run before you can walk and to try and avoid projects that are overly challenging,” which is exactly why her own Sewgirl designs are “simple and straightforward to make.” As with a lot of creatives, Fiona’s passion for making was sparked early on in her life: “I was aged eight or nine and I spent a lot of my time making a patchwork quilt with fabric offcuts, as well as hand sewing lots of clothes for my Sindy doll.” PASSION FOR PATTERNS This love affair with patterns, textiles and handmade garments was almost certainly influenced by the matriarchs in her family; her mother, who championed handmade clothes,…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fat quarter linen fabric ■ Fat quarter flannel fabric ■ Elastic 36cm (14in) ■ Black stranded cotton ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 7mm unless otherwise stated ■ Fat quarter = 45x56cm (18x22in) ■ Download the templates from www.gathered.how/ss-templates TURKEY STITCH Step one Download, print and cut out the templates for the sleep mask. Step two Unlike most stitches, start on the front and go down through the fabric, leaving a short tail on the surface. Come back up just to the left of the starting point, then go down to the right of the starting point. This makes one fringe piece, plus a stitch to secure it.01 Step three Come up through the same hole as the starting point…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

"This coat has been with me for many years. It has changed a bit over time, but the statement back has always stayed the same. I moved back to Denmark from London in August 2009. I was heavily pregnant, moving into a new house that had to be decorated, and I spent many happy hours in one of my favourite places at the time – IKEA. That is where I found the wall hanging designed by Hella Jongerius that I used for the back of the jacket. I was in love with the piece instantly, but since I had enough paintings, collages and homemade artwork to cover the new walls, I decided to do something else with it; I made it into a coat. It is very boxy and super…

LISA COMFORT Author, pattern designer and vlogger Lisa Comfort is passionate about sharing her love of dressmaking. Make her Annie Blouse and Ivy Skirt set on page 36, and discover what’s next for her London-based shop, Sew Over It, on page 40. SOPHIE TARRANT Sophie is a Colchester-based writer and lifelong craft enthusiast who loves dressmaking, embroidery and collecting way too much fabric. You can follow her latest creations in needlework at @SeeSophieStitch on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER Debbie writes and designs for sewing magazines and websites, as well as running her own blog where she shares her designs. Her first sewing book, The Bag Boutique, was a global success. Make her backpack design on page 68. EMILY FREER Simply Sewing Production Editor Emily loves trying new…

1. How adorable is this sewing mate? Who better to mind your needles for you than this friendly face from Wild Olive. £9.75, www.cloudcraft.co.uk 2. This far-too-relatable needle minder is the perfect disclaimer for the sewist with too many projects and too little time. Get 15% off yours using exclusive code SIMPLYSEWING15 (expires 31/3/20). www.snarkycrafterdesigns.etsy.com 3. Forget snakes on a plane, cats in a bowl is the next big hit for your sewing supplies. Add these furry friends to your sewing must-haves for just £3.75. www.plan2stitch.co.uk…

MIX AND MATCH This modern pattern includes both a sporty sweater and a slinky evening dress – making it ideal for day or night. FUNNY VISION  A drawstring waist, gathered cuffs and strong funnel neckline make the most of the structural nature of thick scuba fabric. MAKE SOME SHAPES A bold geometric design on the front of the sweater adds an extra splash of colour. GEMMA The Gemma sweater from Named Patterns is the perfect project to make from scuba, with a semi-loose fit and a bold geometric design worked into the front. It features elasticated sleeve cuffs, a funnel neckline, and a drawstring waist to really draw attention to the structural nature of the fabric. This pattern can also be used to create a form-fitting maxi dress, too –…

This issue brings the ultimate outfit set for smart daytime or stylish evening wear – designed by Sew Over It (www.sewoverit.co.uk). The Annie Blouse is a beautiful floaty top designed for lightweight fabrics. It goes perfectly with The Ivy Skirt, but offers a completely different look tucked into high-waisted jeans. It's wonderfully versatile! The Ivy Skirt, with its flattering faux wrap at the front, is designed for medium-weight fabrics and can quickly transform any outfit. Make it in pastel denim for a casual summer essential, use bright corduroy for a cosy winter look, or choose faux leather for your next cocktail evening. Whatever look you go for, don't forget to share your finished makes using # simplysewingmag YOU WILL NEED Annie Blouse ■ Main fabric: 2.5mx115cm (23/4ydx45in), 2.4mx140cm (23/4ydx55in) ■…

This issue’s cover projects, the Sew Over It Annie Blouse and Ivy Skirt are made using lightweight and heavyweight fabrics respectively. These fabrics are well known for being tricky to sew and some beginner sewists may be put off by the fabrics alone. With this handy guide we show you simple hacks to help guide the fabric through your machine and get a perfect stitch! LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS CHIFFON Chiffon is a strong, sheer fabric with a plain weave. It is often used for special occasion garments such as cocktail dresses, wedding dresses as well as for linings, scarves and lingerie. It can be difficult to work with as the lightweight nature of the fabric means it will shift about when cut and sewn. Cutting out: Cut using sharp shears for…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Sweatshirt that fits ■ Scrap of felt or fleece fabric for appliqué ■ Printer ■ Bondaweb ■ Stranded cotton in at least three shades ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit MAKING THE APPLIQUÉ LETTERS Step one First decide what words, slogan or names you want to put on to the front of your sweatshirt. Try out a few different options or look online to get some ideas. Step two Select your font, type your slogan and print it out onto paper so that it is the size you require. If you want to check to see how it looks, cut roughly around the printout and pin it to your sweatshirt so you’re happy with the size and style you’ve chosen. It’s worth spending a little…

YOU WILL NEED ■ A shirt that fits you to measure from ■ Woven viscose or soft woven cotton sateen: 140x130cm (55x51in), for sizes up to 16. ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ Always wash and iron your fabric before sewing to make sure it does not shrink. ■ You will need more fabric if you would like a longer or wider dress, or if you need to make it larger than a size 16. ■ If you are unsure about fit, then cut the shirt dress with extra seam allowance to allow for alterations. FABRICS USED ■ Woven viscose from Stoff and Stil: www.stoffstil.co.uk CUTTING OUT THE FRONT AND BACK Step one Fold the fabric in…

Sewcialists This welcoming and inclusive blog is a space where everyone is welcome to share their sewing stories – if you can sew, they want to hear from you! Each month volunteer authors take over the site and there are different themes to work to. It’s a fun way to connect with people who share your hobby and see just how far-reaching a craft it is. www.thesewcialists.com Fine Cell Work Fine Cell Work is a charity that trains prisoners in needlework during the hours in their cells, in order to foster hope, discipline and self-esteem. The initiative aims to allow them to leave prison with skills and money saved up, along with the self-belief not to reoffend. While you might not feel up to being a mentor to the ex-prisoners,…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 60x147cm (24x57in) ■ Lining fabric: 100x112cm (39x44in) ■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing: 15x45cm (6x18in) ■ Iron-on wadding: 60x90cm (24x36in) ■ Foam interfacing: 70x72cm (28x29in) ■ Decovil 1 Light fusible interfacing: 30x25cm (12x10in) ■ Bundfix tape: 2.5m (2¾yds) ■ Zip: 50cm (20in), main bag ■ Zip: 12cm (4¾in), front pocket zip ■ Zip: 14cm (5½in), lining pocket zip ■ Snap fastener: for the front pocket ■ Strap slider bar: 4cm (15/8in) ■ 2 rectangle rings: 4cm (15/8in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED ■ Interfacing: Style-Vil foam interfacing from Vlieseline. Visit www.ladysewandsew.co.uk NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 5mm (¼in) unless otherwise stated CUTTING OUT Step one Cut out all the pattern pieces. Step two From the main fabric cut: Outer Front/Outer Back: cut…

BEGINNER Top tip: When you start crafting, use a well-behaved fabric like cotton or a linen/cotton mix – something that’s not too slippery or hard to work with. Project recommendation: Start with simple projects like the Sewgirl Hilda tunic to build your confidence. INTERMEDIATE Top tip: When using iron-on interfacing to reinforce certain areas like waistbands, iron it to the reverse side of the fabric before pinning and cutting out the pieces. Project recommendation: For a pattern using viscose fabrics, see the Sewgirl Suki kimono pattern. ADVANCED Top tip: Make a calico toile before starting a more complex pattern. Adjustments can be made and issues can be worked out on this prior to the final garment. It's always better to be safe than sorry! Project recommendation: Master the technique of…

Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…