Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 32 i Simply Sewing

We love sewing (there’s no doubt about that), but sometimes the best part isn’t the process of making the item, but enjoying the compliments that come flooding in afterwards. Whether it’s a friend that comments on your handmade kitchen accessories or a work colleague admiring your new blouse, we love it when our handiwork inspires others to start sewing too. Share your latest makes on Facebook @simplysewingmag - we’d love to see what you’ve been up to!…

WONDER WOMAN The summer patterns from indie French label Louis Antoinette have us saying ooh-la-la! Titled Heroines, the collection features hero garments to rescue you from those I-don’t-know-what-to-wear days, available as patterns and kits. Styles include a classic shirt with a cut-out detail and a 30s-inspired drop-waist dress. We’ve got our eye on the Simone shirt-dress kit in quirky pineapple-print poplin. From approx £14, www.louisantoinette.co.uk FORTIES FUN Jennifer Lauren proves that sleek tailoring and whimsical design details are a perfect match with her 1940s-inspired Laneway Dress. With a turn-back collar and elegant V-back, it has dream-summer-wedding-outfit written all over it! PDF approx £13, www.jenniferlaurenhandmade.store DO IT YOURSELF Put down your needle and thread and try a different kind of DIY with a make-it-yourself copper clothes rack for your…

29-30 JULY Weaving Colour: 2-Day Tapestry Course. Fashion and Textile Museum, London. Learn the art of colour-blending with master weaver Caron Penney. www.ftmlondon.org 10-13 AUGUST Festival of Quilts. NEC Birmingham. Learn new skills, admire the work of talented quilt artists from around the world and stock up on supplies. www.thefestivalofquilts.co.uk 31 AUGUST Bundle Dyed Scarf Workshop. In Bristol Studios, Bristol. Learn how to create patterns and prints on silk fabric using flowers, leaves, roots and barks. www.floraarbuthnott.com 21-24 SEPTEMBER The Great British Sewing Bee Live. Excel London. Sew along with the GBSB judges and contestants at this new event. Psst! Turn to our feature on page 80 for a discount code. www.thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com 5 FAB FINDS Picnic party Be the most colourful picnickers at the park with these rainbow-hued al fresco accessories.…

This summer is all about the sleeve! Flared, fluted, floaty, pleated, ruffled, cold-shoulder, bell-shaped, bow-adorned – all the gorgeous sleeve styles we’ve spotted on the high street this season have us feeling inspired to add statement sleeves to our me-mades, too. The Mia Set, in UK sizes 6-20 (US 4-18/ EUR 34-48), is a modern update on the oh-so-flattering shift dresses of the 1960s and includes two sleeve options to play with: flared and fluted. With so many possibilities for getting creative with sleeve styles, we’ll be making more than one Mia! The pattern is designed for lightweight fabrics with plenty of drape, such as cotton lawn, viscose and rayon, to create feminine floaty sleeves. The clear step-by-step instructions will take you through sewing bust darts, constructing a simple top…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric: lightweight, 100x100cm (40inx40in) • Pom pom trim: 2m (2¼yds) • Basic sewing kit CUTTING OUT Step one Fold the square piece of fabric in half by folding opposite corners together diagonally. Press it to create a crease, open it out and cut along the crease line. Step two You will now have two triangles, so you can make two scarves if you like. HEMMING THE TRIANGLE Step one Fold the raw edges under by 5mm (¼in) to the wrong side (WS) and press. Step two Turn the edges under by 1cm (3/8in) to the WS all the way around and press. Step three Machine stitch the hem into place along all the three edges. ATTACHING THE POM POM TRIM Step one The pom pom trim…

YOU WILL NEED • 2 large T-shirts • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • You will find the template needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTING OUT Step one Lay one of the T-shirts (label this T-shirt A) flat on your work surface with the front of the T-shirt facing up. Smooth out any creases to make sure that your cut edges will be even, otherwise you’ll end up with jagged edges. Run your hand over to make sure all creases are smooth on the back layer too. Step two Trace around the template and cut it out to make your triangle pattern piece. Step three Place the pattern onto your flat T-shirt A so that it…

YOU WILL NEED • Pair of blue jeans • Lining fabric: see instructions for details • Wadding: see instructions for details • Matching thread • Elastic: 2mm (1/8in) wide x 10cm (4in), black • Button • Basic sewing kit NOTE • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CALCULATING MEASUREMENTS Step one Measure your device all the way around with a tape measure, vertically and then horizontally. This way, your measurements will include the depth of your device. Step two Add 4cm (15/8in) to each of these two measurements. Then divide each of these figures by two and round them up. This will give you a pouch that’s snug without being too tight. This measurement also includes the seam allowances. CUTTING OUT Step one From the jeans, cut…

YOU WILL NEED • 1 fat quarter • Contrast fabric: 10x14cm (4x5½in), for the pocket • Bias binding: approx 25cm (10in) • Thick piping cord: 2.5m (2¾yds) • Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED Fat quarter: Summer Balloons from Sweet Escape by Dashwood Studio. Ref: SUES1189. Available from www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk Contrast fabric: ZigZag Corn Yellow by Premier Prints. Ref: ZIGZACW. Available from www.fabric-yard.co.uk NOTE • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one From the fat quarter cut two pieces 49x28cm (193/8x11in) for the bag. Step two From the bias binding cut: Pocket edging: one piece 12cm (4¾in) long. Loops: two pieces 6cm (23/8in) long. Step three Cut the cord in two equal lengths. PREPARING THE BINDING Step one Fold the pocket bias binding around the top…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: linen, 15x15cm (6x6in) • Backing fabric: quilting cotton, 11x11cm (43/8x43/8in) • Perle cotton (size 8): in a selection of colours of your choice • Polyester stuffing • Crushed walnut shells (or your choice of pincushion filler) • Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the embroidery template on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. WORKING A PISTIL STITCH Step one Bring the needle up through the fabric at one end of the stitch. Wrap the working thread around the needle twice, just as you would with a French knot.01 Step two Insert the needle in the fabric at the other end of the stitch. Keep the needle part way through the fabric as you…

1 THE CORNER PATCH The Corner Patch has a large selection of top quality 100% cotton fabrics, Mettler threads, wadding and haberdashery. We offer classes and workshops for all ages and abilities. Contact Jane on 01785 859360 or jane@thecornerpatch.co.uk. thecornerpatch.co.uk 2 FABRIC CIRCUS For a wonderful array of popular fabrics this summer season visit Fabric Circus. Exceptional quality cotton for all your crafting needs in a wide variety of colours and prints including nautical, stars & stripes, floral, gingham and much more! fabriccircus.uk 3 MIBS FABRICS Mibs fabrics specialise in all things stretchy. From cotton lycra and swim lycra to stretch lace and ribbing with a whole host of other fabrics and a great range of haberdashery too. mibsfabrics.co.uk 4 JJ TEXTILES As a second generation textile merchants, JJ Textiles…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

“THIS IS THE SECOND DRESS I HAD EVER made for myself. I’ve only ever worn this a handful of times, but it’s the memories attached to it that make it special. Before I started sewing I found it really difficult to find ready-to-wear clothes that worked for my requirements (covering my arms and legs, high necklines). Rather than face the high street to find a graduation dress I decided to make one myself. It was probably a bit ambitious of me – until then I had only made one dress and inserted one zipper! I printed the PDF pattern on the back of old lecture notes and spent the next seven days working away on my mini sewing machine. I accidently bought a tall pattern (I’m a petite) and hacked…

Wow, what a month. This issue I’ve gone all-out to curate you a fab selection of looks inspired by high street trends. The Drop Set (p46) from Madeit Patterns is certain to become your go-to for comfort with its stylish asymmetric hem. The Mia Set (p34) ticks all the boxes with its statement sleeves (choose from fluted or ruffled), and our off-the-shoulder shirt dress transformation (p51) is a quick way for you to try out the bare-shoulder trend. Enjoy! PS: SAVE 72% ON SHOP PRICE when you subscribe (see p18)…

TILDA PLANNER 2018 (£12.99, F&W Media) Plan your days in the new hardback, cloth-bound 2018 Tilda Planner. Each week, turn the page to a new photograph of adorable Tilda fabrics and products created by Norwegian designer Tone Finnanger and get inspired. The month-to-view calendar will help you plan out your year of exciting stitchy events. www.sewandso.co.uk MADE FOR BABY Ayda Algin (£14.95, Tuva Publishing) Celebrate a new arrival with a lovingly hand-sewn gift with this book of 20 inspirational ideas, ranging from bibs and blankets to clothing and stuffed toys, with beginner-friendly illustrated step-by-step instructions. Psst! Find a project from the book on page 72. www.tuvapublishing.com MR X STITCH GUIDE TO CROSS STITCH Jamie Chalmers (£12.99, Search Press) Jamie Chalmers’ new book celebrates cross stitch as an art form through…

We’re gradually filling up our wardrobe with me-made Liberty frocks, and now it’s time for us to fill our walls with Liberty prints too thanks to artist Jenny Dunlop. Jenny is based in South Wirral, UK, and uses Liberty scraps to add colour and print to her beautiful and varied artworks, which range from elephants and penguins to traditional French village scenes and even the Liberty store itself. From £20 for a print, www.jennydunlopart.etsy.com…

We lost count of how many times the Great British Sewing Bee judges reiterated the importance of pressing on the show. Whether you’re making new garments or home furnishings, pressing will give your projects a professional finish. This month’s prize has every pressing neccessity covered, with a steam generator, hand-held steamer and steam iron from Tefal, worth £299 in total. From ironing creases out of your fabric for accurate cutting out and pressing seams like a dream, to smoothing any wrinkles in your finished memades, this set can do it all! See more at www.tefal.co.uk and enter the giveaway today at www.simplysewingmag.com See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

As much as we love sewing up special frocks, we want to fill our wardrobe with me-mades for all occasions, from dressed-up dinners to dinner-and-a-movie at the weekends. This issue’s Drop Set by Madeit Patterns (www.madeit-patterns.com) is in the latter category – designed for stretch knits and so comfy it’s like wearing secret pyjamas, this staple jersey style nails the luxe-casual trend with its unique asymmetric drape and can be made as a dress or tunic top in UK sizes 6-18 (US 4-16, EUR 34-46). Olu and Anna of Madeit Patterns say: “It’s an addictive sewing experience; quick, easy and enjoyable. Once you Drop, you won’t stop.” Psst! Read our full interview with the Madeit duo on page 56. Never sewn with knits before? No problem! The clear step-by-step instructions…

LEARN THE TECHNIQUE Lace is really popular at the moment. Whether it’s trimming the hem of a summery top or layered over fabric to embellish the garment completely, lace is the trim of choice this season. Today, lace is largely machine made and is readily available online or from your local haberdashery, but originally lace would have been intricately made by hand with intertwined threads and bobbins. TYPES OF LACE TRIM Traditionally, lace was named after the region it was made, such as Chantilly and Honiton, with each region working different techniques, unique to the community. Today we’re spoilt for choice by the variety of different lace trims we can get, and it can be overwhelming. Some of the most popular types of lace trim we found stacked on the…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: plain solid, for main body, flippers and tail 45x45cm (18x18in) • Contrast fabric: print, for bottom shell, 40x25cm (16x10in) • Six assorted fabric scraps: for side and top shell, 10x10cm (4x4in) each • Pair of 12mm black plastic safety eyes • Polyester toy filling • Stranded cotton: black • Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE Approx: 22x18cm (8¾x71/8in) NOTES • Use a seam allowance of 5mm (¼in), unless otherwise stated. • You will find all the templates needed on the pull out pattern sheet included with this issue. • As the flippers and tail are sewn directly into seams it is advisable to sew over the joins to make sure they are well secured. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the template…

YOU WILL NEED • Oilcloth fabric: see instructions for how much to buy • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit R&B Designs says: “What could be more delightful than to take your table out into the garden and have a meal with friends? Being the UK, though, chances are it will be a tad breezy and the cloth will come off! Well, we have a solution for you. Create a tablecloth with ties to hold it all in place.” MEASURING UP Step one Measure the top of your table then add 52cm (20½in) to the width and length. This includes a hemming allowance and a 25cm (10in drop) on each side of the table. Step two You may be limited by the width of the fabric as to the measurement…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching.…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

JENELLE MONTILONE Jenelle Montilone is a recycling and repurposing revolutionary. Jenelle believes that she can make a difference, and she knows that you can too! To get started, find out how to make old T-shirts into shopper bags with her tutorial on page 53. OLU FALOLA Olu worked as a graphic designer in advertising for 15 years but gave it up to spend more time with her daughters. She met Anna (below) through blogging and now they’re partners at Madeit Patterns. Read more on page 56. AYDA ALGIN Ayda is an engineer who lives in Istanbul. Her blog, CafenoHut, is where she shares her craft, baking and interior ideas. Her first sewing book, Made for Baby: Cute Sewn Gifts has just been released. Sew her baby kimono on page 72.…

1. This mini canvas backpack in a cute pug print will have your little ones holidaying in style this summer (although you may be tempted to keep it for yourself!). £21.97, www.beckyandlolo.co.uk 2. Add an on-trend hint of copper to your home with this washable paper pot by Warm Grey Company. It’s the perfect size for storing everything from threads to flowers. £12 each, www.warmgreycompany.etsy.com 3. Accessorise your summer me-made frocks on cooler days with this floaty scarf in an abstract design – or hang it on your wall! £28, www.oliverbonas.com…

A GIFT FOR YOU! With any purchase at Sewing Quarter, you’ll get a pair of Sewing Quarter Dressmaking Scissors absolutely free!* Use the exclusive discount code, SEWINGLOVE1 to grab yours! These dressmaking scissors come with 23cm (9”) sharp stainless steel blades for precision cutting. Their comfortable, easy-to-hold handles make them easy to use, and they’re effective on light and heavy-weight fabrics alike. Find them (and lots more essential haberdashery, tools, and fabrics) at www.sewingquarter.com EDITOR’S PICK SEASONAL TRENDS This month we can’t get enough of calming blue, turquosie and green hues - reminds us of tranquil days at the beach, paddling in the sea! SHOP ONLINE! Browse over 340 designs in our online shop and buy custom-cut fabric ranging from tiny charm packs to half-metres - perfect for dressmaking. You’ll…

YOU WILL NEED • One oversized shirt • Elastic: 2.5cm (1in) width x 2m (2¼yds) • Basic sewing kit CUTTING THE SHIRT Step one Trim off the collar and sleeves from your shirt.01 Step two Tidy up the armholes by sewing a line from the open top and down to the side of the shirt, keeping the sides at the top straight. Stitch close to the edge to retain as much fabric as possible at the sides.02 MAKING THE CASING Step one Fold the top cut raw edge over by 2.5cm (1in) to the wrong side (WS) and press. Step two Turn over again to the WS by the same amount to make a double hem, then press and pin in place.03 Step three Starting at the back, stitch the…

PSST: This would work as an everyday summer dress to layer with a plain vest top, too - just choose a drapey fabric with stretch. YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: 1.5-3m (1¾-3¼yds) medium-weight jersey with 40-50% stretch • Iron-on stabilising seam tape: see instructions for details • Low-tack masking tape • Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED • Milano viscose jersey, available from www.fabricgodmother.co.uk NOTE • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CALCULATING MEASUREMENTS Step one Take your bust measurement (at the fullest part of your bust) and multiply this by 1.8. This is the width of your rectangle. Step two The length of my rectangle is 110cm (43in). You can go up or down on this measurement depending on how long or short you want your…

BABY KIMONO YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: 40x112cm (16x44in) • Lining fabric: 40x112cm (16x44in) • Bias binding: 2cm (¾in) width x 2m (2¼yds) • Ribbon: velvet, 5mm (¼in) width x 75cm (30in) • Suede strip: 5mm (¼in) width x 50cm (20in) • Stranded cotton: pink and green • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace the kimono front, kimono back, pocket and mitten templates and cut them out. Step two From the main fabric cut: Kimono front outer: cut one pair. Kimono back outer: cut one on fold. Mitten outers: cut two 10x12cm (4x4¾in). Pocket: 8x8cm (31/8x31/8in). Step three From the…

We love a live craft show, especially one that features an abundance of sewing. Add the ingredients that have made The Great British SewingBee such compelling viewing, and you know you’re onto a winner! With comedian and actress Jenny Elair hosting the Super Theatre and a sterling line-up including GBSB judges Patrick Grant and Esme Young, drop-in clinics, demonstrations, stalls and a fantastic assortment of workshops taught by former contestants and industry experts, we’re beside ourselves with anticipation! The Great British Sewing Bee Live comes to London from 21-24 September and is being billed as the UK’s largest new dressmaking and sewing event. It’s organised by the same folks who do the Knitting & Stitching Show, so you know it’s going to be inspiring and entertaining. Sewing Quarter – our…

NORTH WEST DOLLY’S HABERDASHERY Dolly’s is an inclusive and friendly environment, with ongoing classes from Learning to Love your Sewing Machine to Garment Making. 01925 820780 SOUTH WEST INCHES FABRICS Fabrics, wools and haberdashery. Buttons, ribbons and patterns. Knitting and sewing lessons. 39 Parsonage St, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP inchesfabrics.co.uk DERBYSHIRE STRAIGHT CURVES provides a wide range of high quality arts and crafts courses and workshops in the heart of Chesterfield. Discount code: SS08 straightcurves.co.uk SCOTLAND ROMY’S SEWING ROOMS Bright, friendly shop for all sewers, selling patterns, fabric and notions. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities from an experienced dressmaker. facebook/Romyssewingrooms/ MIDLANDS HAPPY HARE An independent sewing store in Chapeltown, Sheffield, stocking a range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. handmadehappyhare.com MIDLANDS CRAFTY SEW &…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT : Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST : Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST : Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…