Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 13 i Simply Sewing

Nothing beats the feeling you get when somebody compliments an outfit you’ve made (did you see my #charliedress on Instagram?) - it’s a really great motivator. Next on my list is this month’s cover garment, a staple shift dress (page 34). With no fastenings and just a few pattern pieces, this shift is a surprisingly quick make. I think I’ll choose a retro floral fabric for mine! If time is limited, try updating existing outfits instead. Our cute cross-stitched jumper (page 52) is a great starting point. What’s your style? Show me using #simplysewingmag…

For most students, university is mainly about attending lectures, writing essays and socialising. However, Laura Ralph launched a successful fashion business while still in her second year. It all began when she decided to start making herself stylish crop tops from vintage fabrics. “One day I made myself a two-piece and posted it on Facebook and all of my friends started ordering. Then during the summer holidays I set up a business Facebook page and started getting more and more orders.” Laura moved to London to intern for Alexander McQueen and Burberry. “Luckily my mum is hugely involved with the business and she really kept it going during this time and during my final year of university.” Today Laura focusses on those popular two-pieces: “My bestseller is the crop top…

YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter Medium-weight interfacing: 40x55cm (16x22in) Bag frame: 23cm (9in) Invisible thread Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. You will find the template needed to make this project on 91. Designer Jennie says: “There are lots of different bag frames out there. I’ve used a sew-in type, but if you fancy a quicker project then opt for the glue-in version, which doesn’t require any hand stitching.” Step one Trace the template from page 91 then flip on the pink line to trace the other half as a mirror image. Now you have your template. Cut the fabric in half widthways for the outer and lining. Fold the outer piece in half widthways with right sides (RS) together then place the fold line…

“Be honest – it’s key to ensuring an enjoyable ride. Planning is important, but being open to opportunities also helps you to succeed. Set yourself challenges but keep them realistic and flexible!” Matt and Gemma Chapple, Sew What’s New, www.sewwhatsnew.co.uk “Be aware of the fine line between work and family business , and think carefully about where your strengths lie and figure out how you can combine them for the maximum effect.“ Elis and Dermot O’Grady, Crafty Kooka, www.craftykooka.etsy.com “Have at least one day off each week to completely rest so you don’t burn out don . Learn to dream together by allowing each other to openly, and without criticism, think out loud and brainstorm ideas.” Cass Belanger and Matthew Macindoe, The Stitchery, www.thestitcherystudio.com “Whatever you think something will…

FYI: Make in cosy flannel for the cooler months or light cotton fabric in a shorter length for the summer. YOU WILL NEED Old pair of PJs Pattern paper or newspaper (to draft your pattern with) Fabric to fit your pattern Pencil Elastic: 13mm (½in) wide, see instructions for length details Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED • Liberty Tana Lawn, available from www.sewbox.co.uk Who says PJs have to be boring? These floral Liberty-print bottoms look effortlessly stylish teamed with a plain tee. You can easily draft your own pattern by tracing around a favourite pair onto a few pieces of newspaper. Trust us, you’ll be wondering why you hadn’t tried this already! Step one To create your PJ pattern, trace around a pair of your favourite PJs using pattern paper…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: red, 60x120cm (24x48in) Felt: black, 70x60cm (28x24in) Pair of sheer black tights Elastic: white, 5mmx110cm (¼x44in) Elastic: black, 5mmx68cm (¼x27in) Ribbon: black, 70cm (28in) Velcro: small patch Pipe cleaners: black x 2 Safety pin Black hairband Two wire coat hangers, wire cutters and jewellery wire Paper for patterns Basic sewing kit Black top and black tights or leggings (to complete the costume) NOTES You will find the collar template on the pull-out pattern sheet included with this issue. Use a fabric that doesn’t fray or neaten the edges with a machine zigzag stitch or pinking shears. Step one Measure and cut out two squares of red fabric, each 58x58cm (23x23in). Draw a 8cm (3¼in) circle on paper and cut it out. Pin to the black…

One of the most satisfying things about sewing is having the chance to unfurl your creativity and set it to work. For Kirsty Hartley, imagination is both the means and the goal, especially when it comes to her vibrant children’s clothing range, Wild Things. “Wild Things is about putting imagination back into the magic of childhood,” she explains. “The brand is about dressing children for play, and not as mini adults. My clothes are inspired by simple imagery, colour and a sense of the extraordinary. They’re durable, can be worn every day and use great-quality fabrics.” Kirsty has a broader goal in mind, too. “I’m passionate about helping to revive the huge skill base the UK has to offer,” she says. Our admiration for Kirsty’s work prompted us to invite…

SEAM RIPPER You’ll find this odd-looking tool invaluable for cutting through seams and removing stitches. The hook slips under the stitches while the sharp blade at the back cuts the thread. Replace it if it’s getting blunt – they’re cheap. MARKING TOOLS Tailor’s chalk and water- or air-erasable pens and pencils make pinning and tacking much easier as you can see where you’re meant to be sewing. They come in different colours to contrast with your fabric. ROTARY CUTTER If you want to get into patchwork or dressmaking, these make short work of cutting out a lot of fabric and pattern pieces. Always cut away from yourself as they are very sharp. You’ll need a cutting mat and special ruler to use these. PINS AND NEEDLES Indispensable stainless steel pins…

MATT CHAPPLE The first male winner of the Great British Sewing Bee, Matt now blogs about his projects at www.sewwhatsnew.co.uk and has launched a sewing kit range. Matt and his wife Gemma share the joys of running a craft business together on page 44. EMMA HARDY Emma is a craft author, stylist and designer from London who has worked on various lifestyle and interiors magazines. She show us how to make a child’s ladybird costume, from her latest book, Sewing Dress-up (CICO Books), on page 70. AMANDA RUSSELL & JULIET BAWDEN Designer-makers Amanda and Juliet are the duo behind R&B Designs. The pair have been working in the creative industry for over 20 years and write for a number of craft titles. Find their Liberty-print pyjama project on page 62.…

THE MODERN NATURAL DYER Kristine Vejar (Abrams & Chronicle, £18.99) Swap the chemicals for all-natural dyes such as madder, rhubarb, dahlia and onion skins in this guide to colouring your own fabric and threads. www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk THE FINE ART OF FASHION ILLUSTRATION Julian Robinson with Gracie Calvey (Frances Lincoln, £35) Get inspired by this mighty collection of fashion illustration, from Renaissance woodcuts to 1920s prints. www.quartoknows.com LASER CUTTING FOR FASHION AND TEXTILES Laura Berens Baker (Laurence King £24.95) Fashionistas on the cutting edge will love this ultra-modern guide to making and embellishing your own clothes using laser technology. www.laurenceking.com THE MAKER Tamara Maynes (Murdoch Books £18.99) Stylist Tamara Maynes’ book is full of inspirational, sophisticated and thoughtful craft projects for your home to put your own stamp on your space, including…

CANVAS RUCKSACK Take your home office out and about with you in this roomy rucksack. It has ample space for files, notebooks and your tech, a zip pocket to stash the essentials, and padded straps for comfort and strength. Chunky metallic zips and canvas details give it a stylish utilitarian feel. MAGAZINE FILES Keep inspiration to hand with magazine files covered in your favourite fabrics. Add metal label-holders for a smart, professional finish. DESK TIDY Our stationery stash is almost as extensive as our fabric hoard, so this tidy is essential for keeping our desks (and minds!) organised. Fill up the sections with clips, pens, washi tape...anything that helps you to get creative. There’s even a spot for your phone, too. FABRIC BINDER COVER Ring binders aren’t the most exciting…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 74x115cm (29x45in) Large pocket fabric: 30x52cm (12x21in) Small pocket fabric: 20x52cm (8x21in) Binding fabric: 18x26cm (7x11in) Magnetic clasp A4 Lever arch file Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Bound by April Rhodes for Art Gallery. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf Main fabric: Humanity, Canvas. Ref: AGFC7051. Large pocket: Survey, Ochre. Ref: AGFBOU8050. Small pocket: Path Marker, Slate. Ref: AGFBOU7042. Binding fabric: Wallpaper, Flesh. Ref: AGFBOU8049. NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING FABRIC Step one Cut the fabric as follows: Main fabric: Cover outer and lining, two pieces 37x115cm (145/8x45in) each. Large pocket fabric: two pieces 30x25cm (117/8x97/8in) each. Small pocket fabric: two pieces 20x25cm (77/8x97/8in) each. Binding fabric: pocket binding strips, two strips 4x25cm (15/8x97/8in) each; clasp strip 10x10cm…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 65x54cm (26x22in) Pocket fabrics: three different fabrics 17x78cm (7x31in) each Binding fabric: 8x90cm (3x36in) Heavyweight interfacing: 44x75cm (18x30in) 30mm (1½in) webbing: taupe 120cm (48in) Velcro: sew-on loop and stick-on hook: 30cm (12in) Metal label holders: gold x 3 Paper fasteners: gold x 6 Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Bound by April Rhodes for Art Gallery. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf Main fabric: Wallpaper, flesh. Ref: AGFBOU8049. Top pocket: Humanity Ref: AGFBOU7051. Middle pocket and binding: Path Marker, slate. Ref: AGFBOU7042. Bottom pocket: Survey, Ochre. Ref: AGFBOU8050. CUTTINGTHE FABRIC Step one Cut the fabric as follows: Main fabric: Organiser front and back: two pieces 53x27cm (207/8x105/8in) each. Pocket binding: three strips 4x39cm (15/8x105/8in). Each pocket fabric: two pieces 17x39cm (6¾x153/8in) each. Binding…

PSST: Floaty or structured, layered or sleeveless, loose or belted - there are endless options! See page 37 for inspiration. Designer Sammy Claridge, of Sew Crafty (www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk), says: “This easy-to-wear shift dress can be made in a million different fabrics and look different every time, with the same simple assembly and great fit. Make it up in a beautiful, floaty georgette for a pretty summer garment, or in a structured brocade and wear as a pinafore over a blouse. The options are endless! We’ve sized the pattern to fit standard UK dress sizes. The pattern allows for ease with a roomy fit as there are no fastenings. It’s designed to be slipped on over the head and worn loose, or pulled in with a belt to create shape. We have…

Art Gallery Fabrics says: “This project is so fun and perfect for sewists of all skill levels. Make as many strands as you wish!” YOU WILL NEED Selection of cotton fabric scraps Polyester fibrefill Embroidery thread: ivory Basic sewing kit NOTE • You will find the template needed to make this project on page 91. Step one Trace then cut around the template onto your fabric. You will need two pieces to make each heart. Step two Sew two heart shapes right sides (RS) together with a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance, leaving a turning gap on one side. Snip the curves then turn RS out and turn the edges of the turning gap to the inside. Press. Step three Stuff your heart with polyester fibrefill then stitch the turning gap…

1 Each individual seed stitch is worked as a small straight stitch about 2-3mm (1/16in) long. Bring your needle up for the first stitch then push it back in a short distance way. Work the next stitch in the same way, in a different direction. Concentrate on making sure the stitches next to each other face a different way in order to create a random effect. 2 To create different densities of seeding, space the stitches in the area around the heart close together then gradually space them further apart as you work outwards. It can help to draw rough outlines of these different areas with water erasable pen to help with the spacing, then wash the lines out once you’ve finished stitching.…

YOU WILL NEED 1 T-shirt Voile, approx 50cm (20in) Fray check Basic sewing kit Designer Jennie says: “With minimal sewing and measuring required, this is a lovely simple project for anyone dabbling in dressmaking or looking for a quick make.” Step one Cut your T-shirt into two pieces just under the sleeves.01 Step two Fold your voile in half then lay it over the upper piece, at the top of the neck opening. Cut the voile to make it 5cm (2in) wider either side. Step three Keeping your voile folded over the T-shirt, fold both in half again, making a square, and press. Now cut the neckline of the voile, following the neck of the T-shirt.02 Remove the top of your T-shirt and discard. Then with right sides (RS) facing,…

YOU WILL NEED Denim scraps: small bone 24x34cm (9›x13›in); big bone 30x40cm (12x16in) Matching thread Toy stuffing Flat squeaker (optional) Bells (optional) Air or water erasable pen Basic sewing kit TEMPLATES You will find both bone templates on the pull-out pattern sheet included with this issue. These durable denim dog toys make great gifts for four-legged friends and they’re really quick-to-make! Stuff them with bells and squeakers to keep your dog happy, make them big or small, or even use white denim for an authentic bone look. Step one Decide which size of bone toy you want to make then trace and cut out the relevant bone template. Step two Iron your denim and place the bone template on top. Using an erasable pen, mark your bone pieces onto the…

You’ll need stranded embroidery cotton and a sharp or tapestry needle, depending on the fabric you use. See below for a guide for transferring a design – one of the simplest ways is to trace it directly on to your fabric. We use a pale blue coloured pencil – very forgiving against a light-coloured fabric if any lines remain once the design is complete. BACKSTITCH Use backstitch for a neat outline. Bring the needle up and take it back over the fabric, as shown. Push the needle back up in front of where you started, making sure you keep all the stitches neat and even. STEM STITCH With stem stitch, work from left to right, in regular small stitches along the line of the design. The thread always emerges on…

Step one Depending on the thickness of your fabric, you may need the help of a lightbox to help illuminate the design through the fabric. Or you can use a window and trace against it. Either way, tape the design securely in place. Step two Place your fabric in a ring frame with the right side of the fabric face down. Now turn the frame over so the right side of the fabric is face up and place the frame over the design so that it sits flush with the flat surface. Using a ring frame or ‘hoop’ helps to keep the fabric taut. Step three Check the fabric is square to the design and start to trace the design using a light blue coloured pencil or water soluble pen.…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 40x45cm (16x18in) Contrast fabric: 40x112cm (16x44in) A3 mount board: white, 2 sheets Double-sided tape Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Bound by April Rhodes for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf Main fabric: Path Marker, Slate. Ref: AGFBOU7042. Contrast fabric: Wallpaper, Flesh. Ref: AGFBOU8049. NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the mount board to the following sizes: Tray Base: 10x42cm(4x16½in). Short sides: two pieces 10x3cm (4x1¼in). Long sides: two pieces 42x3cm (16½x1¼in). Long divider (left): 22x3cm (8¾x1¼in). Long divider (right): 20x3cm (77/8x1¼in). Short dividers: three pieces 5x3cm (2x1¼in). Central divider: 10x3cm (4x1¼in). Mobile phone box Base: 4.5x8.5cm (17/8x33/8in). Short sides: two pieces 4.5x6cm (17/8 x23/8in). Long sides: two pieces 8.5x6cm (33/8 x23/8in). Step…

PATCHFINDERS Patchfinders have moved their extensive array of fabrics and notions to delightful, bright new premises in Poynton. The new shop offers one level easy access for unhurried browsing and there are two well lit classrooms. 01625 262518 www.patchfinders.co.uk SEW CONFIDENT Sew Confident provides a range of sewing classes in a friendly, social environment. We have classes all over Scotland and also sell machines, supplies and do special events such a hen parties! 07530 997077 www.sewconfident.co.uk SEW-STITCH-CREAT8 Sewing workshops in Sandbach, Cheshire. Learn how to use your Sewing Machine with confidence, Classes – Get to grips with zips, Appliques, Pattern alterations, Dressmaking, Tote Bag Making, Make do and Mend. 01270481420 or 07772684907 www.sew-stitch-creat8.co.uk SEW HAPPY SCHOOL OF PATCHWORK Learn patchwork, quilting and appliqué. Classes are small and informal, beginners welcome.…

Sewing garments that fit beautifully is the key to a professional finish, so we’re super excited about this issue’s prize: an Adjustoform Lady Valet dress form, worth £199! The winner will receive the Lady Valet dress form in Ecru, and can choose from the small or medium size. Visit www.adjustoform.com for the full Adjustoform range and sizing information. LADY VALET FEATURES: 12 adjusters give precise body measurements. Polished wood stand and matching neck cap. Use to fit garments to your size and make alterations. Keeps clothes in shape. See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

If you’re new to embroidery, it can feel a little daunting to begin a large-scale project. So, when we’re learning a new stitch, we like to start small! Delicate seed stitch is simply a small straight stitch sewn in a random formation to fill in a shape or design, so is a perfect beginner’s project. Use our heart template on page 91 to seed stitch your own badges, and experiment with stitching inside or outside of the heart outline. We love using a rainbow of threads for a confetti effect! Turn to our seed stitch workshop on page 49 to get started.…

YOU WILL NEED Fabric A: 15x112cm (6x44in) Fabric B: 30x112cm (12x44in) Fabric C: 30x112cm (12x44in) Fabric D: 30x112cm (12x44in) Fabric E: 15x112cm (6x44in) Fabric F: 12x28cm (5x11in) Zip: 23cm (9in) 2 cord ties or shoelaces: 68cm (27in) each Fusible fleece: 50x60cm (20x24in) FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from Maker by AGF Studio. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist Fabric A: I’m a Maker. Ref: MKR-3891. Fabric B: Make Patches, Shabby. Ref: MKR-2890. Fabric C: Make It, Hang It, Warm. Ref: MKR-2882. Fabric D: Make Closures, Pewter. Ref: MKR-3883. Fabric E: Premium Cotton, Honey. Ref: PE- 421. Fabric F: Pastel Thrift, Moonstone. Ref: PE-430. NOTE • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance throughout. CUTTING OUT Cut out the following pieces: Fabric A Back pieces: 3 pieces 14x26.5cm (5½x10½in) each; Pocket section: 2…

YOU WILL NEED Fleece fabric: silvery grey, 50x90cm (20x35in) Fleece fabric: yellow, 35x45cm (14x18in) Felt: white, 20x12cm (8x5in) Cotton fabric A (colour 1 for keypad): 7x10cm (2¾x4in) Cotton Fabric B (colour 2 for keypad): 7x10cm (2¾x4in) Cotton Fabric C (for side control panel): 6x9cm (3x4in) Cotton Fabric D (for bottom control panel): 11x6cm (5x3in) Safety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) x 2 Metal teeth zip: white 15cm (6in) Polyester toy filling Stranded cotton: black and extra colours for detailing Water erasable pen FINISHED SIZE Approx 35cm (14in) from bottom of body to tip of aerial. NOTES • Use a seam allowance of 5mm (¼in) unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT You will find all the templates needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet included with this issue. They all…

Whether it's your first ever machine or an upgrade on an old faithful, buying a new sewing machine is an investment. That's why it's important to look after your machine so it'll continue to stitch as smoothly as it did when you first brought it home. While we recommend taking your machine to a professional to fix any issues and give it a full service, there are things you can do at home to keep your trusty machine running like a dream, from covering it when you're not stitching, to cleaning it often to keep it free of lint. Follow our maintenance tips and step-by-step cleaning guide to keep your machine whirring away nicely. A happy machine means happy stitching, after all! MAINTAINING YOUR MACHINE CLEANING AND MAINTAINING YOUR sewing…

Cushion pads are widely available either online or in your local craft shop. There are various shapes available, but one of the most popular is the standard square cushion pad. Cushion pads are filled with either a synthetic or feather filling, and tend to have a different feel to them. Feather filled pads have a more luxurious feel and are squashier to touch, while synthetic cushions tend to remain plump as they will ‘spring’ back into shape. They’re also better for those with allergies. Here’s a list of standard cushion pad sizes. Keep a note of them to help with future projects… STANDARD CUSHION PAD SIZES…

“I’VE BEEN STARING INTO MY closet wracking my brains for a good 20 minutes, and all I can tell you is this: I couldn’t possibly pick my favourite make! That would depend entirely on my mood, the occasion and what new beauty had just come fresh from the sewing machine. What I do know, though, is this: when I pull out all of the dresses that I wear the most, the ones that fill me with pride, the ones I like to swan about in and proudly say, ‘why thank you, I actually made it!’ they do, in fact, have one thing in common – they are all variations on the By Hand London Kim Dress pattern. Judging by the many incarnations of this one pattern that I’ve made, it…