Like many remote places we visited in the making of this issue, the northeast is best navigated with the help of a local guide. Pradip Chettry, from Kensington Tours (kensingtontours.com), is one of the best. Make GUWAHATI your base in the region. STAY at the modest Kiranshree Portico hotel (kiranshreeportico.com). Drive to VISIT elephants and greater one-horned rhinoceroses at the Kaziranga National Park (kaziranganationalpark-india.com), a wildlife sanctuary founded in 1905.
I was born in Assam and love teaching people about the diverse flavors of the northeast, starting in Guwahati, where I eat ASSAMESE cuisine like khorika, barbecued fish, pork, or vegetable skewers known as “stick barbecue,” at Khorika Restaurant on GS Road, or baanhgajor lagot gahori, pork with bamboo shoots, at Maihang at Shanti Palace. Namsing, opposite Commerce College, serves…