Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2016 i Harper's Bazaar India

It was Downton Abbey, set in the flapper ’20s, and Mad Men, shot against the backdrop of ’60s New York, that put double-breasted tailoring back on the sartorial map. The shows’ protagonists—Hugh Bonneville’s Lord Grantham in his double-breasted tuxedos that he wore to the Abbey’s elegant dinners, and John Slattery as Roger Sterling in his business suits, which he sported with a rakish nonchalance at ad agency meetings—actually carried the narrative forward with what they wore. Tailored to perfection and radiating power, these were jackets that were bold and effortless, and could work just as well for a meeting as they could for a sit-down dinner. But these weren’t the only places where the double-breasted made strapping appearances. There was the aptly titled Suits, the 1920s gangster drama PeakyBlinders, and…

How would you define your personal style? If I had to pick one word, I’d say understated. How has it evolved over the years? I have developed my own sense of style, which prioritises comfort and ease. What are some of your favourite trends and designers? I don’t really follow trends but I’m a sucker for distressed denims. These days I’m also big on joggers. All Saints is one of my favourites, and I also like the rugged feel of Belstaff. What are you most comfortable in—when you are headed out for an elegant evening, and for a casual Friday night? Nothing like a sharp, well-fitted suit for an elegant evening, but Id rather team it with a tee or a vest to make it less severe. And, of course,…

SIDDHARTH DHANVANT SHANGHVI ON FARROKH CHOTHIA CELEBRATING THE FEMALE FORM The chances of Farrokh Chothia’s female subjects knowing the phrase ‘fire-retardant bra’ are negligible. Add to this list: Librarian. And canticles. Indeed, his subjects seem more capable of starting fires —their gaze at his camera has an inflammable quality. This achieves two things: Such plain, bold, clean directness gives them the strength that male photographers often strip off their subjects. His women are lions; they are gazing out at no predator. No, I’m not advancing a feminist trope here —that his subjects are not objectified, or that the photographer is sensitive to how swiftly this can happen when men photograph women. I believe I don’t need to. Second: It establishes that, sometimes, for an artist to love his subject, art…

EVER SINCE THE DAY HER 48-year-old mother died of breast cancer, Bengaluru-based graphic artist Lubna* has lived with fear of developing the disease. So when a routine mammography revealed a tiny lump indicative of stage 1 cancer, Lubna, 35, was almost relieved. “It sounds ghoulish, but I felt really lucky to have detected it so early.” Indeed, Lubna is one of a handful of women in the country fortunate enough to have discovered her cancer before it spread. Despite campaigns stressing the importance of early detection, most women here are either unaware or too lazy to bother with breast self-examination or regular mammograms. A delayed diagnosis is thus inevitable. “Late stage breast cancers still constitute 60 percent of all breast cancers, making them harder to treat,” says Dr V Kabra,…

THE LOCATION LISBON. THE LAND OF BLUE SKIES AND DIFFUSED LIGHT. OF ART, CULTURE, HISTORY. OF INSPIRATION. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN’S SECOND HOME. WHERE THE ICONIC FRENCH DESIGNER IS LOVINGLY RESTORING A HERITAGE HOME. THE BOTTLE The jewel-toned flacons are designed by Thomas Heatherwick, the man responsible for the Olympic cauldron from the London 2012 Games. The bottles are such that they allow light to pass through them, giving a sense of the “liquid being alive”. THE FRAGRANCES Bikini Questa Sera with jasmine and tuberose; Tornade Blonde with red rose, violet, and cassis; and Trouble In Heavenwith iris, patchouli, and tonka. THE NOTES First Louboutin heard the notes, then he rendered them into a fragrance. On a floating platform, at Lisbon’s Mae de Agua, the heart of the ‘aqueduct of free…

Soumik Datta didn’t think he would ever spend a night in a brothel. Then again, he never anticipated the project that would lead him there. For four months, from November to February this year, the sarod virtuoso, who’s collaborated with the likes of Beyoncé and Joss Stone, scoured remote Indian villages in search of folk musicians at risk of oblivion. He found Veeragase dancers in Karnataka, but lost his reservation at a hotel in the nearest town. The only option left was a room in a brothel. The working women had the day off. So what compelled this London-based musician, who’s toured internationally, to undertake a journey so far removed from his world? The simple answer would be creative fatigue. Soumik picked up the sarod 18 years ago, and “something…

RENOWNED FURNITURE DESIGNER TIMOTHY OULTON was once a member of what he calls the Fake Antique Dealers Club. They operated from the back of a shed, and used old materials to create new products, like smashed up leather suitcases reinvented to make a chest of drawers. He remembers their first trunk, a vintage Louis Vuitton with a cigarette burn on top. “We had to take the trim off, cut the fabric and the box, and then put everything back. And I thought that wasn’t too hard, we can do this,” he says. This was perhaps 20 years ago. But it’s this philosophy that has led to his eponymous luxury design brand, with galleries across the world. The latest one is in Delhi, its first in India. That trunk, now in…

Intimacy and sexuality are at the heart of Eighteen Plus Duets (out now), a series of short stories co-written by a man and a woman. Author Apurv Nagpal worked with 18 first-time women authors living across the world, pursuing different careers. One of them, Sukanya Duttaroy, speaks with Nagpal about the collaboration. How easy was it for you to delve into these topics? A lot of the women had issues writing explicit scenes and wanted me to write those—sounds familiar, Sukanya?—while others had issues with developing the characters. What were the reactions from prospective co-authors? I’ve had calls from husbands asking me what I’m doing with their wives. I’ve had potential co-authors offer the following as excuses: My family will not allow, what will my children think, my employers will…

KUMAR’S VERY PROUD OF NOT HAVING EIGHT-PACK ABS. FOR HIM, FITNESS ISN’T ABOUT BODYBUILDING. IT’S A WAY OF LIFE The September sun is blazing above India’s resident superhero, Akshay Kumar. It seems to fuel him in mysterious ways that only super heroes can fathom. He is at Aamby Valley City, all wholesome green goodness, filled with all the frivolous yet necessary high-life accoutrements. While the world awakens, Kumar has gotten up, and done everything you aspire to do—twice. Well, sort of. Today, for instance, he spent the morning trekking, zip-lining, and jet-skiing with his son Aarav (14) and daughter Nitara (4). It’s probably no big deal for Kumar, who is a sixth degree black belt in Kuyukai Gojuryu Karate, and has a widely reported exercise regime that mixes swimming, martial…

This October, Bazaar decided it was time to study, really study, the gender issue by shifting focus to the other sex. For the first time in seven years, we decided the time was right to work on a bumper men’s-only issue. We realised that in a strange way it would be a culmination of all the work we have done so far. Bazaar has been the greatest proponent of feminism, in India and abroad. For us, the logical next step in furthering this conversation meant a better understanding of men. We started with deliberating who would be perfect for our cover. The answer was unanimous: Akshay Kumar. Men admire him, women love him. With good reason. He is a thorough professional. Polite, charming, courteous, and considerate, he took the time…

UNLIKE THAT OF MANY OF HIS CONTEMPORARIES, designer Zubair Kirmani’s ascent in the competitive world of Indian fashion has been a quiet one. Neither have there been elaborate advertising campaigns announcing new collections nor an avalanche of celebrity social media posts tagged with his name. Yet, his work is synonymous with creativity, experimentation, and an unwavering dedication to his craft. His latest achievement—winning the International Woolmark Prize (IWP) India, Pakistan and Middle East Regional finals for menswear—is only further proof of that. “I love to take an idea, a fabric, or a style of embroidery, and engineer, reinvent, and develop it in different ways,” says Kirmani, talking about his designs for IWP. “To really flesh it out with myriad techniques in various styles is what excites me. I believe it…

BRIGHT LIGHTS The Aurora Borealis is one of nature’s most awe-inspiring phenomena, and the German watch brand, A. Lange & Söhne, has turned to it to create three new watches: The Grand Lange 1 ‘Lumen’, Zeitwerk Luminous, and Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase ‘Lumen’. They all highlight the contrast between light and dark, and have dials made of blackened silver. And the apertures, with their semitransparent sapphire-crystal glass, allow the numerals to absorb a sufficient amount of light to glow in the dark for several hours. IN THE BAG Drawing inspiration from subjects as diverse as wanderlust, the Apollo missions, and Matt Damon, Christian Louboutin has created the Pour Lui collection, which features three types of travel bags. The Explorafunk backpacks, aimed at the contemporary urban explorer, come studded with…

EVER SINCE IT DEBUTED IN 2004 with an association with Karl Lagerfeld, H&M’s designer collaborations have only gained popularity with each passing year. Eagerly awaited and just as quickly sold out, these capsule collections offer a chance of owning luxury at affordable prices. And the latest brand to join hands with the Swedish high-street label is Kenzo, whose designers, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, have created a collection that features bold colours, vivid prints, and fine stripes on skater dresses, high-waist pants, T-shirts, and jackets. Bazaar spoke to the duo and H&M’s Ann-Sofie Johansson on what creating Kenzo x H&M was like. What does this collaboration mean to you? Humberto Leon : We were so excited when H&M asked us to collaborate. They do such an amazing job of…

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 See Where to Buy for details. Grooming: Chris Schild/Ballsaal Artist Management. Fashion stylist and props: Lukas Blasberg.…

The Body Shop Arber Hair & Body Wash, 745. With a subtle, woody scent, this multi-tasker cleans without drying out the skin or hair. Unwash Cleansing Conditioner, 2,100. Wash your hair every day and keep it soft with this double-duty product enriched with organic primrose oil. Kiehl’s Age Defender Eye Repair, 2,800. Part of the brand’s new range for men (which also features a power serum and moisturiser), its rye seeds extract and caffeine help counter under-eye puffiness and dark circles. Kevin Murphy Rough Rider, 2,975. A strong-hold clay with a matte effect, it contains bamboo and soya extracts to strengthen hair. L’Oreal Professionnel Homme 4 Mat- Sculpting Pomade Styler, 575. This malleable wax helps create versatile styles without the greasy after-feel. Chanel Le Weekend de Chanel AHA Exfoliant, 7,600.…

As an artist, Sameer Kulavoor has created designs for album covers, murals, and Paul Smith T-shirts. As a publisher, he produces e-zines and flipbooks. And in his role as a curator, he’s at the helm of the first-ever NH7 Periphery Art Project, in conjunction with this year’s NH7 Weekender music festival, which boasts a lineup featuring the likes of The Raghu Dixit Project, Parikrama, and DJ Anish Sood. Works by 30 artists chosen by Kulavoor will be showcased during the music festival, each representing the theme ‘Utopia’. “Utopia can be anything, so it’s exciting to see so many viewpoints on a single theme. It also takes off from the music festival, which looks at magical realism. The whole idea of Snapchat, for example. You’re in this strange, different world where…

RHINESTONE-STUDDED condom dresses, peekaboo pudenda, mules as thick as cement blocks; nipples, side boobs, no VPL because no P; orange hair. The Real Housewives. You know, today: The age of vulgarity. At the Barbican in London this month, a show titled The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined, conceived by psychoanalyst Adam Phillips and curator Judith Clark, explores 500 years of clothes that were perceived as excessive, sexualised, kitsch, or camp. It’s going to be a roar of a show. Fashion has always used excess to stand apart from mere clothing, and vulgarity has long been the tool of revolution, protest, and self-assertion. After the French Revolution, women known as Merveilleuses paraded through the gardens of the Palais-Royal in sheer white dresses that were soaking wet, the better to reveal every detail of…

Tucked in a narrow alley in Delhi’s winding Hauz Khas Village is Aman Khanna’s new store, Claymen. Although, the term gallery may be more appropriate. Minimal and unobtrusive, it launched in July with an exhibition called Table, Set For One, which featured three distinct tables covered with a white cloth, a candle at the centre, holding his range of clay bowls, glasses, jugs, and plates. All, of course, set for one. “The idea was to do my own personal projects and not turn this into a traditional retail space. A lot of this is tactile, details I want people to see, touch, feel, and introspect,” says Khanna, also a graphic artist and illustrator, who exhibited at the first London Design Biennale last month. Indeed, the tableware itself is a study…

IT’S FOUR IN THE MORNING. I am finding it hard to sleep on my first night in Bhutan. I expected it to be colder. Outside, the dogs are barking. They don’t relent till the break of dawn. Two days later, I’m at the Royal University of Bhutan, Thimpu, for the Mountain Echoes Literature Festival. It’s still fairly early. Young Bhutanese men in their traditional knee-length robe, gho, with their hair slicked with gel, and women in their beautiful ankle-length dresses, kira, are ambling into the auditorium, chattering excitedly. I spot Pico Iyer sitting comfortably in the first row. He’s waiting for his session, The Art of Stillness, to begin. “It’s going to rain,” someone sitting next to me whispers. I feel a cool breeze emanate from the door next to…

LIBRA SEPTEMBER 24-OCTOBER 23 It’s a pity that you’ve felt tongue-tied when others have asked for your views on tricky issues. Mercury entering your sign early in October will help you become more analytical and articulate than usual. Just don’t assume this gives you the right to meddle with people’s private affairs if you haven’t been invited to do so. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Nothing’s impossible for the person who doesn’t have to do it. SCORPIO OCTOBER 24-NOVEMBER 22 Rise above cheap jibes uttered by those who have envied you for a while. Concentrate on financial or domestic situations that you should have tidied up weeks ago. This is the wrong time to waste energy on futile arguments or petty politics. Motto of the month Don’t stand in your own…

“It’s about the romance in their lives... It’s Archana’s power, the way Harathi can seduce you over the phone; inside Nafisa is a six-year-old girl...”—Suneet Varma ON AN UNUSUALLY PLEASANT MONSOON MORNING IN DELHI, seven women congregate at Saraswati Studios in Safdarjung Enclave at Suneet Varma’s behest. They are his muses: Nafisa Ali, Gunita Sodhi, Harathi Reddy Rebello, Archana Vijaya, Batasha Mathur, Tanvir Batra, and Aleah Ahmed. They range in age from 20-59. Varma has known Sodhi for almost 25 years and Ahmed for only two, but it’s not only that they wear Suneet Varma that gives them something in common. “It’s about the romance in their lives, our history together. It’s Archana’s power, the way Harathi can seduce you over the phone; inside Nafisa is a six-year-old girl... Just…

TOP TICKET Sitarist and composer Anoushka Shankar is no stranger to prestige. A four-time Grammy nominee, she was also the youngest—and the first—woman to receive the House of Commons Shield from the British House of Parliament back in 1999. Now, she adds another milestone to her career with a debut at the New York Philharmonic next month. What makes this even more special is her choice of music. Conducted by Zubin Mehta, she’ll perform her father Pandit Ravi Shankar’s Raga-Mala Sitar Concerto No. 2, 35 years after he premiered the work at the Philharmonic. www.nyphil.org All prices upon request. STOCKHOLM BAZAAR LOVES: NOBIS HOTEL Located in the historic Norrmalmstorg Square of Stockholm, there are several reasons to adore the Nobis Hotel. Designed by one of Sweden’s most acclaimed architects, Claesson…

A A. Lange & Söhne at Johnson Watch Co., Delhi (011 4151 7518) at Time Avenue, Mumbai (022 2651 5757) Abhishek Gupta Delhi (011 4907 2528) Abhishek Paatni Delhi (098710 48006) Adidas Delhi (011 4055 1845) Mumbai (099300 79114) Adidas Originals Delhi (099991 12763) Mumbai (022 2660 6715) Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta Delhi (011 4070 1360) Alexander McQueen at Le Mill, Mumbai (022 2204 1926) Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey at Second Floor Studio, Delhi (011 4142 0324) Anuj Bhutani Delhi (011 2651 9066) Ashish N Soni Delhi (011 4606 0955) ASOS (www.asos.com) Avène at Guardian Pharmacy Delhi (011 4016 7004) Mumbai (022 2655 1111) B Baume & Mercier at Ethos Watches, Delhi (011 4058 8700) Mumbai (022 6640 6991) Beardo (www.beardo.in) Belstaff (www.belstaff.com) Ben Sherman (www.bensherman.com) Blancpain at Johnson…

1 THE MOOD: WILD WEST Whether it’s Navajo weaves (Paul & Joe), tasselled cowhide jackets (Faith Connexion), or even shirts with embroidered yokes (Gucci), men’s fashion this season takes its cue from swashbuckling sheriffs and highway gangsters of the Californian desert. At Valentino, Mohican feather charms appeared embellished onto peacoats, while Dolce & Gabbana printed horses, horseshoes, lasso ropes, and silver stars all over their shirts. It is at Saint Laurent, though, that designer Hedi Slimane refined the Wild West look—slim trousers worn with a fitted shirt and a long coat topped with a Stetson hat—into an all-black fantasy that would up the ante in any fashionable salon, any evening. 2 THE TONE: COPPER Move over, grey. Fall’s favoured shade is a burnished copper hue made all the more precious…

The great privilege of my job is that I have the opportunity to handle some of the world’s most stunning and fascinating jewels, from exceptional, rare diamonds to beautifully crafted pieces by the greatest designers. One such piece, which particularly stands out for me, is this stunning and unique demi-parure (matching set of necklace and earrings), signed by Van Cleef & Arpels, and dating to the mid-1960s. It is inspired by Indian jewellery: A traditional ‘thali’ collar transformed into a unique and spectacular necklace, featuring stunning emeralds and rubies, pearls and diamonds. The central piece is detachable, and so can also be worn as a brooch. Highly chromatic and fabulous when worn, I originally sold it at an auction at Sotheby’s in 1993, which took place in Saint Moritz. It…

The rapid paceand the chaotic lifestyle that modern living entails is now affecting not just our physical health, but also our inner harmony and wellbeing. According to Ayurveda, health can only be achieved when the mind, body, and spirit are aligned and in harmony. With this in mind, perfect health is a long-term benefit of inner peace and balance. When any one of these elements is disturbed, then an unhealthy state of being is a natural consequence. To keep the mind and body in balance, try the natural way of living, the satvik way, which uses principles inherent in nature. Like in Ayurveda. It recognises constitutional differences, based on which regimens and remedies are structured. According to this traditional science, diseases occur due to imbalance in your dosha (type of…

IN CONVERSATION WITH CHEF ADRIAN MELLOR, who started his career at the age of 14 in a UK restaurant, served as a private chef to Queen Rania of Jordan, and recently took the helm at The Leela Palace in New Delhi. Favourite ingredient for fall? Game season, fresh wild mushrooms. Death row meal? Char kway teow with extra cockles and Chinese sausage. A dish you can eat every day? A bacon and egg sandwich with lashings of HP sauce. Strangest place you’ve found inspiration for a dish? On a small island in the Philippines called Camiguin. I ate live sea urchins, dressed with coconut vinegar, chilli, raw onion, and calamansi (I had 20 pieces on the rocks by the ocean). The unknown food capital of the world? A young chef…

Confused about what to gift the host the next time you attend a party? Well, look no further than Delhi-based boutique Bonjour Chocolates. Their clients include fashion and luxury bigwigs, from Ashima-Leena to DLF Emporio, so you’re in good hands. Bazaar loves their bespoke hampers. Perhaps order a box of assorted truffles, in variations like dark chocolate java ganache with a speck of edible gold, white chocolate with strawberry and champagne, and even red velvet cake. Want more options? Get a mix of tea cakes—the Kinnaur apple with cinnamon is popular—crispy and chewy macarons, chocolate-dipped Oreos, dessert jars, and traditional English toffee. You’ll be spoilt for choice. For good measure, throw in a bottle of wine. www.bonjourchocolates.in…

Throughout his lifetime, Gleb Derujinsky was many things. After serving in World War II as an Army staff sergeant, he returned to his first love, photography, and began shooting for Harper’s Bazaar US under the keen eye of editor-in-chief Carmel Snow. His intrepid nature also led him to become an award-winning cinematographer, a musician, a race-car driver, and a jewellery and bicycle designer, but it was thanks to Snow that he embarked on one of his most memorable assignments: A fashion story shot over 25 days in 11 countries, commissioned to mark the inaugural around-the-world flight of the Boeing 707. Round-the-World Fashion: HB’s Flying Odyssey appeared in the January 1958 issue, and is now featured in Capturing Fashion: Derujinsky, out this month from Flammarion. Edited by the lensman’s daughter Andrea…