Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2024 i ELLE

A few years ago, Hoyeon reached a crossroads. When the South Korean actress and model became a massive global sensation on Netflix’s Squid Game, she tells Beauty Director Kathleen Hou, “I was scared because I thought, ‘I’m not prepared to have these kinds of jobs.’ ” Soon, she had a realization: “These are rare things. I can’t squander them. Now I can say with conviction that whatever opportunity comes my way, I choose to do this. I choose to have this.” Her career has been on fire ever since: Next up is her first English-language role with a major director, appearing alongside Cate Blanchett in the new Alfonso Cuarón series Disclaimer on Apple TV+. And on ELLE.com, you can catch her showing off her cooking prowess, preparing traditional dishes with…

FROM PARIS WITH LOVE “The idea was to create a space for all things beautiful,” Iris de La Villardière, cofounder of the jewelry brand Viltier, has said of the brand’s new showroom on Paris’s Left Bank. She and cofounder Thomas Montier Leboucher wanted to create a salon-style space that exuded ’70s luxe. The duo enlisted Fanny Perrier of interior design firm Studio Perrier to achieve the perfect mix of antique and modern furnishings. The salon will also serve as a gallery, showcasing a rotating series of works. viltier.com. ART DECO Kia Schwaninger cut her teeth designing high jewelry at Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston. In 2020, she branched out on her own with her label Kia Schwan, which began by offering custom designs. Now her first permanent collection,…

Unable to afford a prom dress at full price, Alexis Novak had to dig through the Goodwill racks. At the time, she found it embarrassing. Now she sees things differently. As the founder of Tab Vintage, an online store devoted to rare vintage clothing, Novak has transformed the thrill of the hunt into a curated luxury experience. Harnessing the deluge of archival material online, Instagram-friendly sourcers like Tab Vintage and Shrimpton Couture can contextualize the pieces they’re selling with pictures of Kate Moss wearing the same look. It’s exclusivity rooted in nostalgia for older generations revisiting looks they loved—and a chance to introduce younger fashion enthusiasts to the original iterations of trends they see today. Customers are sliding into Novak’s DMs, searching for that piece no one else can have.…

If you had said to me 10 years ago that Tangier was going to be the hottest place and everybody was going to be talking about it, I would have said you were crazy,” admits Kenza Bennani, founder of ready-to-wear and accessories brand New Tangier. Her hometown is one of the largest cities in Morocco, perched on the northwestern tip of not just the country but the entire African continent. It’s an extraordinary location, poised between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea, and bordered by the Strait of Gibraltar. The hillside topography here is often compared with San Francisco’s, and on a clear day residents say they can see cars zipping along the southern Spanish coast, just across the way. Unlike Marrakech or Casablanca, Tangier hasn’t seen a boom…

There’s a recurring thought I had the day we brought home our pandemic puppy: “Man, it’s gonna suck when you die.” I’ve made peace with this inevitability, but my ears perked up like our German Shepherd’s when I heard rumors of a “canine antiaging pill.” A biotech company in San Francisco, aptly named Loyal, is running clinical trials for drugs designed to extend a dog’s life expectancy. Founder and CEO Celine Halioua is a dog lover who studied neuroscience and nanobiotechnology. Her thesis is that the short lifespan of big dogs is like “an accelerated aging disorder, an unintended consequence of historical inbreeding for size.” In an effort to correct genetic mistakes, Loyal’s drug LOY-001 reduces insulin-like growth factor (IGF-1), a biomarker hormone, also present in humans, that drives cell…

The BAG Anouk Aimée carried her own Chanel bag in Un homme et une femme, and the house’s fall 2024 show paid tribute to the film—complete with options like this brand-new sunny colorway. Handbag, Chanel, 800-550-0005. The WATCH First unveiled in the late ’80s, Cartier’s Tank Américaine marries the French maison’s savoir faire with the ease of stateside style. The latest edition has gotten a sleek and très 2024 refresh. Watch, Cartier, $7,750, cartier.com. The SHOE Named for the brand’s iconic La Scandale show from 1971, Saint Laurent’s ’40s-inspired peep-toe heel pays tribute to a watershed moment in fashion history. Pumps, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, $1,150, Saint Laurent, NYC.…

THE NEW AMERICAN NAME: COLLEEN ALLEN When Colleen Allen unveiled a witch-inspired collection for her fall 2024 womenswear debut, she didn’t go in for literal, double-double-toil-and-trouble motifs, but a mix of Victorian underpinnings and modern, gorpcore-adjacent elements like Polartec. The Witch meets The Blair Witch Project, perhaps. Delicate bloomers contrast with what Allen calls “these big, extroverted, ritualistic garments,” like a velvet opera coat that feels made for Tilda Swinton to swan around in. The minimalist mood of the collection makes sense, given that Allen is an alum of Calvin Klein, and her attention to detail was honed at The Row: “Once you start working like that, there’s no going back.” THE NEW TAILORING WHIZ: TOLU COKER Tolu Coker’s fall 2024 runway show drew on a trip she took to…

CHEMENA KAMALI AT CHLOÉ Did you get the memo? Boho is back, and Chemena Kamali has a lot to do with that. The French house’s new creative director racked up several stints there prior to taking on the role, so she’s hyper-familiar with everything the feminine-but-hippie Chloé girl wants. Namely, floaty chiffons, groovy ’70s trousers, and delicate logo belts. The ultimate bohemian dream girl, Sienna Miller, was seated front row. SEÁN MCGIRR AT ALEXANDER MCQUEEN The Dublin-born Central Saint Martins grad Seán McGirr held posts at JW Anderson, Burberry, and Dries Van Noten, among others, before coming to the house of McQueen as creative director. For fall 2024, his inspiration was the East End of London, which translated into looks that were dark, sleek, and clingy (along with exaggerated funnel-neck…

ANOK YAI INSISTS SHE’S “not your average person.” That may seem obvious, given she’s one of the most successful models working, but Yai says there’s something else that sets her apart. “I’m very dark,” she says, peering over her Prada shades. “I’m obsessed with knife-fighting. I love edgy movies—I’m obsessed with the Joker. When I started modeling, the industry wanted me to be the cute, bubbly, happy girl who’s just a ball of joy—that’s really not me.” Subverting people’s expectations is something she’s been doing forever. In middle school, Yai loved putting together eccentric and elaborate looks. “My style was nonsense. I would have themes on certain days. One day, I’d wear all fur—fur boots, a fur jacket, a fur hat, even a fur wallet that had my flip phone…

For Fendi’s latest “hand in hand” initiative, the Italian house taps Sfilato Siciliano (Sicilian-drawn threadwork) artisan Francesca Spatola to create a Baguette featuring the delicate embroidery technique. A modern-day heirloom, Prada’s Victorian porcelain–inspired leather purse has been digitally- and silkscreen-printed to evoke the antique craft.…

The divide between emerging designers and conglomerate-backed megabrands is getting wider every day. Newer labels are increasingly less likely to buy into traditional fashion business structures, while the top brands are churning out dozens of collections a year and seeing more and more returns. Younger brands need to focus on what they are good at, and for Farah Marafie, that means craftsmanship and true luxury. With An Ocean of Ideas (AOI), her multidisciplinary design house, craft comes before categorization. Born in London and of Kuwaiti-Lebanese heritage, Marafie grew up immersing herself in the arts before making the move to New York to attend Parsons. After stints at several brands, including Opening Ceremony and Oscar de la Renta, she found herself exhausted by the fashion cycle, lamenting, “I can’t design the…

THE COVER LOOKS ANOK YAI Dress, $6,100, hat, $2,500, earrings, $5,100, rings, Prada, prada.com. HOYEON Dress, Louis Vuitton, louisvuitton.com. CASTING CALL PAGES 62–75: Marc Jacobs, marcjacobs.com. Wolford, wolford.com. Falke, falke.com. Polo Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Collection, ralphlauren.com. Chanel, 800-550-0005. Balenciaga, balenciaga.com. Celine by Hedi Slimane, celine.com. Dior, Dior boutiques nationwide. Bulgari, bulgari.com. JW Anderson, jwanderson.com. David Yurman, davidyurman.com. Adidas Originals x Reverie by Caroline Hú, juicestore.com. Simone Rocha, simonerocha.com. Miu Miu, miumiu.com. ONE OF ONE PAGES 76–87: Mugler, mugler.com. Mark Davis, markdavis.com. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent (NYC). Wolford, wolford.com. Gucci, gucci.com. Maison Yoshiki Paris x Archived Prototypes, archivedprototypes.com. Courrèges, courreges.com. Puppets and Puppets, puppetsandpuppets.com. Ludovic de Saint Sernin, ludovicdesaintsernin.com. Ferragamo, ferragamo.com. Van Cleef & Arpels, vancleefarpels.com. Prices are approximate. ELLE recommends that merchandise availability be checked with…