Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2020 i ELLE

1 THE BAG Tis for Tod’s—and for Timeless, the brand’s latest cross-body, in a petite size that doubles as a clutch. Handbag, Tod’s, $1,675, tods.com. 2 THE WATCH With its Panama-weave band, Cartier’s limited-edition La Demoiselle timepiece, inspired by Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is a call to adventure. Watch, Cartier, by appointment only, 800-CARTIER. 3 THE BOOT Wade into the season with Dior’s high-fashion take on the utilitarian coastal classic. Ankle boot, Dior, 800-929-DIOR.…

Indya Moore MODEL AND ACTOR “I’m interested in [seeing] fashion evolve, to go past the romanticizing of white women and whiteness. I think we need to move forward, and I don’t think white folks really see this happening, but Black and brown folks do. Dark-skinned Black trans women and femmes, and folks who are watching fashion shows and never get the chance to see themselves, know this. It’s often extremely homogeneous, and if there are POC, it’s one or two. Fashion shows seldom reflect what humanity looks like. Why would you invest in someone who doesn’t see you or doesn’t want to see you? How can the fashion industry deconstruct all the ways in which we continue to romanticize one kind of look or one kind of complexion? I think…

SHORTLY BEFORE FEARS OF COVID-19 swept through this spring’s Fashion Week, fashion show production maestro Alexandre de Betak was already reexamining his business model. Famous for his transporting work for the likes of Dior, Rodarte, and Jacquemus, de Betak released a statement declaring that shows must be smaller, more sustainable, and more digital. The pandemic only sped up those mandates. “Due to environmental concerns, my current focus is on testing new digital platforms,” de Betak says. “But by next year, we’ll be pretty happy to have experiences again, albeit more intimate [ones].” The question of what those reimagined shows will look like is one that has been bedeviling the entire industry—and has accelerated existing conversations about changing the fashion show system. Between the carbon footprint of international travel, elaborate single-use…

WILLOW CROSSLEY “Flowers are just so life-enhancing. If I’m feeling stressed, a couple of hours weeding and puttering in the garden—probably in a boilersuit with a cup of tea—is the perfect antidote. But while I favor silence in the garden, my studio is all about cheesy ’80s rock blaring on Spotify.”…

If the eyes are the windows to the soul, consider your eyebrows your window frames. A strong shape that looks naturally full is so impactful, brows can practically stand alone as an entire look. Celebrity makeup artist and L’Oréal Paris brand ambassador Sir John turns to L’Oréal Paris UnbelievaBrow Longwear Waterproof Brow Gel to sculpt brows that are big and beautiful thanks to a thickening, waterproof formula that leaves them enhanced for up to 48 hours. “The staying power through a long day is worth it for me,” he says. “When my celebrity clients need it for the red carpet or a performance, it just stays anchored.” The dual-sided tool that comes with the formula features an angled brush and spoolie to create hair-like strokes and striking definition. SIR JOHN…

I LOVE LULU HAIR CAFÉ LOS ANGELES @iloveluluhair Famous for: Owner Tallulah “Lulu” Marcelin specializes in hair health for natural textures. Solange Knowles, Angela Bassett, Rutina Wesley, and Crystal Fox are fans. BLEUTIQUE HAIR ATLANTA @bleutiquehair Famous for: Metowi Willingham’s hair installation technique requires no thread, glue, or braids. Instead, she uses tiny beads to lock pieces in place. Clients include Lizzo, Nia Long, and La La Anthony. AMINATA AFRICAN HAIR BRAIDING NEW YORK CITY @aminata.african.hair.braiding Famous for: Mother-daughter duo Ami Colé and Astou N’Diaye are lauded for quick and affordable braids in countless styles.…

I magine a podcast that gets around 3 million downloads a month, but no one is meant to listen to it. During Drew Ackerman’s Sleep With Me, the host tells mind-numbing bedtime stories solely to put you to sleep. Not a bad business model, considering that up to 70 million Americans report some kind of sleep disorder, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (a number that could climb in 2020 as more people, particularly women, suffer from “racing mind,” says sleep psychiatrist Eric Nofzinger, MD). Getting at least seven hours of sleep is life-altering: It improves mental tenacity, coping ability, metabolism, and immune function. And if beauty is your motivation, there’s incentive for your skin, too. A study published this year in the journal Nature Cell Biology…

JENNA PERRY @jennaperryhair Celebrity hair colorist Clients: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Bella Hadid, Ashley Olsen “I discovered L’Oréal Paris Magic Root Rescue 10 Minute Root Hair Coloring Kit ($7) while researching root cover-ups for my mom. It’s lowammonia, covers grays, and comes in multiple shades. I love that the applicator bottle and brush are combined—it makes application clean and uncomplicated. First, part your hair in the middle, then work your way out in quarter-inch sections, saturating both sides of the roots. Use mirrors to see the back of your head as you apply the color. When you’re finished, touch up the hairline—it’s the most important, because everybody can see it.” SARAH POTEMPA @sarahpotempa Celebrity hairstylist and inventor of the Beachwaver Clients: Camila Cabello, Reese Witherspoon, Busy Philipps “Overtone Coloring Conditioner in Pastel…

When Representative Katie Porter’s face appears on my laptop screen, backdropped by the marigold walls of her kitchen, I can instantly tell she’s having a day. She’s overwhelmed, weary, pulsating with the frantic energy of a person doing too much. It’s April 9, or day 21 since Porter more or less locked herself inside like much of the rest of the country, and yes, we are Zooming. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d speak with a member of Congress while unshowered, makeup-free, and in sweatpants, but here we are. And for a moment, we are not reporter and politician, but two women who find themselves in the middle of an unprecedented global pandemic, and one of us clearly needs a minute. Like many, Porter is exhausted from…

DURING ONE OF THE BIGGEST NEWS EVENTS in history, one of America’s most prominent television journalists is not in the newsroom. Instead, Ann Curry, the former cohost of the Today show, is spending the COVID-19 shutdown in her Connecticut home, where she’s been in quarantine with her husband, tweeting. Curry has always been more of a hard-news reporter than a TV personality, and she’s used her days at home trying to pinpoint the most verifiable information about the pandemic to disseminate to her 1.5 million followers. It’s not exactly the gilded celebrity pedestal she once occupied, but like everything Curry does, it’s earnest, honest work. “It’s not as if I want to be on TV talking about this stuff,” Curry assures me. “But I would love to be involved in…

HOW DO YOU DRESS FOR THE OFFICE when your apartment becomes your cubicle? For this month’s The Feed—typically oriented around Fashion Week street style—we turned our attention indoors and to that endless well of inspiration, Instagram, asking some of the platform’s most inventive fashion creators to shoot images of their self-isolation looks. Reese Blutstein, who goes by the nom de blog Double3xposure, had a Zoom-friendly take on business casual: a structured cardi paired with bike shorts. Designer TyLynn Nguyen stayed comfortable in an airy slipdress, while model/artist Megan Harris upped the ante by “doodling the clothes” she couldn’t try on, inspired by Area, Charlotte Knowles, and Vivienne Westwood. For more on the at-home style phenomenon, see page 92.…

There’s no better time to up your earring game than now, when your colleagues are constantly seeing you from the shoulders up. Pick a pair that’s unique but not distracting: Both architectural and fluid, these 14K gold double-jointed pendulum danglers from 302 Fine Jewelry’s Utility collection move with you, adding both individuality and energy to your look. Wear with any Zoom shirt and proceed to make money moves.…

INDYA MOORE HAS BEEN GETTING CREATIVE. The model and Pose star has been turning laundry bins, chairs, and pieces of Styrofoam into makeshift camera stands to shoot socially distanced campaigns. Moore is just one of many models who’ve become their own photographer, stylist, and/or glam team during the lockdown. Moore has enjoyed the creative freedom, but has also felt sudden pressure to present a backdrop that’s on-brand, stressing about not being “in an aesthetically fashionable quarantine space.” It’s easy to romanticize modeling as a career, but many models are living paycheck to paycheck, just like any other gig workers. Sara Ziff, founder and executive director of the Model Alliance, is helping guide them through these strange times, whether that’s making sure they’re receiving adequate compensation for the many new skills…

Over the past few months, I have cultivated a style perhaps best described as The Big Lebowski meets Auntie Mame. After stayat-home orders removed any semblance of a routine, I turned to piling on odd, clashing garments, as if I were starring in a one-woman, millennial version of Grey Gardens. I may not be a distant cousin of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’s living in a crumbling manor, but the sheer loopiness of the way I’ve chosen to dress feels fitting in a world where a viable conception of “normal” no longer exists. I’m hardly the only fashion enthusiast who has turned to incongruous outfits to get through trying times. The Instagram account @wfhfits (Working From Home Fits), where people submit images of what they’re wearing to, yes, work from home, has…

DIOR “I ASKED MYSELF WHAT CHRISTIAN DIOR and I would have been doing during confinement,” says Dior jewelry creative director Victoire de Castellane. “Since he was known for being a gourmet, just like me, I saw us in the kitchen, making pastries. I also pictured us exercising in the salon of 30 Avenue Montaigne and dreaming of an Easter egg hunt.” Using the house founder as her guiding light, de Castellane conjured up dreamy additions to the Rose des Vents range. The pièce de résistance: shoulder-grazing earrings featuring the line’s trademark enamel compasses alongside sun and moon motifs. CELINE SCULPTOR CÉSAR BALDACCINI is perhaps best remembered for his sculpture series Directed Compressions. Introduced in 1959, the pieces were made from soldered and welded scrap metal—old license plates, cars, discarded piping—that…

ELIZABETH KAYA MORGAN “I find crocheting to be very therapeutic and rewarding. I adore making my own dream clothes every day—and seeing my creations being enjoyed so much by others,” Morgan says. “When I’m working, I like to sit in my comfy clothes and listen to podcasts to help me zone out.”…

FRESH FACE FORWARD SEEN AT: Chanel, Burberry, Victoria Beckham, Proenza Schouler, Brandon Maxwell Luminous skin was the beauty centerpiece at Fashion Weeks across the globe. Chanel makeup artist Lucia Pica describes the house’s vibe in three words: “super-natural, fresh, and glowy.” Bright skin was also the focus at Victoria Beckham. “The look is pared-back,” the designer says. “A healthy complexion with a golden highlight on the eyes allows each model’s characteristics to shine through.” GET THE LOOK: Start with a light-catching primer, like Victoria Beckham Beauty Cell Rejuvenating Priming Moisturizer in Golden ($145, top). Use a Kabuki brush to buff on a sheer cover-up, like Giorgio Armani Neo Nude Foundation ($40, above). Then enhance your glow with Chanel Baume Essentiel in Rosée ($45, left) across cheekbones and onto lids for…

ESTÉE LAUDER ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR SYNCHRONIZED MULTIRECOVERY COMPLEX ($105) The new formulation of the cult classic improves skin firmness. EBB COOLDRIFT VERSA ($349) Nofzinger’s sleep research revealed that the “racing mind” associated with sleeplessness could be calmed by a cooling headband. OSEA VAGUS NERVE OIL ($48) When inhaled and massaged on the neck, this blend of essential oils triggers the parasympathetic nervous system, readying the body for sleep.…

On May 25, 17-year-old Darnella Frazier was walking to the store with her 9-year-old cousin when she saw a man lying facedown on the sidewalk, a cop’s knee on his neck. As most of the world now knows, for 10 excruciating minutes and nine seconds, she recorded the murder of George Floyd on her iPhone, posting the video to Facebook the next day. Later, she said she filmed the shockingly brutal incident—which was so universally repugnant it quickly sparked racial protests all over the world—because she didn’t think anyone would believe her. “How do we educate the populace about the problem of police violence, specifically against Black communities?” Tara Pixley, a visual journalist and assistant professor at Loyola Marymount University, says later when we speak by phone. “How do we…

It feels like a lifetime ago, given the breakneck pace of the news and the steady erosion of our political system, but it has only been a year since rap lightning rod Cardi B sat down with Democratic presidential hopeful Senator Bernie Sanders in a Detroit nail salon in the summer of 2019. The polymathic force—former stripper/onetime reality star/raptress/wife/mother/hellion—converted the salon into a backdrop for an earnest conversation around the most urgent issues facing Americans today: job creation, police brutality, a livable minimum wage, and workers’ rights. The scene was full of obvious asymmetry—Cardi’s glamour-puss persona played irreverently off Sanders’s mensch—but in many ways, it was just two New Yorkers talking about the issues of the day, with the all the camaraderie of the politicking found at any Dominican bodega…

THE STUDENTS WHO GRADUATED THIS SUMMER have never faced a more uncertain future. As they navigated the new quarantine normal, we invited college photography graduates from around the country to showcase their skills in the form of fashion images. The models were their nearest and dearest—parents, roommates, siblings, significant others—who were excited to don high fashion for this shoot. For Parsons grad Daveed Baptiste, it was a chance to pay tribute to his mother, Marie. After he immigrated to the U.S. from Haiti, the two were separated for years, but they’ve now reconnected in New York, where she works as a home health aide. “She was going to work almost every day,” he recalls. “I wanted to make her feel special, so one afternoon after she came home from work,…

VIRGO AUG 23–SEPT 22 September’s mission: building powerful partnerships without losing yourself in the process. The full moon on the 2nd reveals where you might be losing energy by making too many sacrifices. Pull back and reflect on this: What would make you feel happy and whole, Virgo? A clear vision could come by the annual Virgo new moon on the 17th. Pampering yourself, performing onstage, and taking on a powerful role could all be part of your pathway to bliss. LIBRA SEPT 23–OCT 22 Surrender, Libra. A situation you’re dying to fix is beyond your control—at least until birthday season begins on the 23rd. With the Sun in your hazy twelfth house until then, you can’t get a clear read on anyone’s motives. No need to abandon the ones…

IN THIS TIME of free-floating uncertainty, we all want to know the answer to one question: What does the future hold? For ELLE’s first-ever Transformation issue, we look at the many ways the world is evolving amid COVID-19 and the widespread reckoning over racial justice. Our Front Row package examines how fashion will change when it comes to sustainability, modeling, fashion shows, and racial diversity. Consummate insiders like Donatella Versace, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Giorgio Armani, Virgil Abloh, and Gabriela Hearst are among those sharing how fashion can transform into a more earth-friendly, welcoming environment for all. In that spirit, we’ve devoted this issue to “forever fashion”—the pieces that we all want to buy now, but that were also made to stand the test of time. One example: photographer Chris Colls’s…

“WHEN IT COMES TO ENERGY, we need to look to the future, and when it comes to garments, into the past,” Gabriela Hearst said at a preview of her fall 2020 collection in February, a month before the world, and the industry, got turned upside down. Eco-pioneers like Hearst and Stella McCartney have been calling on the industry to follow their lead for some time now. But with widespread cost-cutting measures in the wake of COVID-19, it remains to be seen if the industry can maintain its commitment to greener production, and if eco-friendly habits like upcycling, resale, and clothing rental will suffer as a result of fears about spreading the virus. Fashion consultant Robert Burke predicts such innovations aren’t going anywhere. “Younger generations,” he says, “are looking for sustainability,…

“I LEARNED PRETTY EARLY ON that press doesn’t pay the bills,” says Harlem’s Fashion Row founder and CEO Brandice Daniel. “I knew I needed to do something that would actually give financial opportunities to designers of color.” Daniel founded the initiative in 2007 to create an equal playing field for Black and Latinx designers, staging fashion shows and providing networking and mentorship opportunities. “We’ve been doing the work for 13 years,” says Daniel, who launched the Icon360 fund under the HFR umbrella this past May to benefit designers impacted by COVID-19. When ELLE spoke to her early in the summer, she was thrilled to have just raised $15,000 through a virtual fundraiser, featuring panelists like Christopher John Rogers. In June, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) added another…

“NO HOLDS BARRED. I love that expression,” says Harris Reed. The designer, who uses they/them pronouns and identifies as gender-fluid, was constantly on the move as a kid, living in 30 different places. They sought refuge in dress-up, using fashion “as an elevator conversation, showing people who you were within five seconds.” Reed’s mother, a Mexican American model-turned-candlemaker-turned-perfumer, and their British documentary filmmaker father encouraged this sartorial experimentation. “I was always pinning and clamping and duct-taping things together,” Reed says. “It’s a running joke in my family that I got into the best design school in the world never having used a sewing machine properly.” That school: Central Saint Martins, alma mater of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, whom Reed grew up reading about in magazines. While there, they developed…

TSCHABALALA SELF “Making art brings me joy because it allows me catharsis,” Self says. “Each work is a small picture window into my inner self, a part of myself that I can share with the world. While working in my studio, I enjoy listening to NPR—and I love wearing my Pyer Moss Reeboks, as they are comfy and fashionable, the perfect combo.”…

MICHELLE ELIE-MEIRÉ “Cooking feeds not only the body but the soul,” Elie-Meiré says. “Even virtually, it feels so authentic and pure, as if we’re really going back to the essence of being in the kitchen together. So why not make it fashionable? And don’t forget the jazz!”…

1. Kim Kimble 2" Silk Quick Pass ($80) If anyone knows her way around a flatiron, it’s Kimble, the legendary hairstylist behind Beyoncé’s iconic looks in Lemonade. Kimble’s styler, with its “floating” plates (which move slightly as you use them) and beveled edges, can curl hair, too—and its special coating offers an effortless glide. 2. Pat McGrath Labs Dark Star Mascara ($30) Channel Diana Ross’s mile-long, fluttery lashes in the classic ’70s film Mahogany with McGrath’s newest mascara, a gel-cream formula with microfine pigments. 3. Baby Tress Edge Styler in Blush ($15) Design wavy, swirled, and scooped edges with this three-in-one tool. 4. Eden BodyWorks Almond Marshmallow Therapy Leave In Conditioner ($9) This milky spray slays at detangling and moisturizing loose to tight curls (think: 3A to 3C), and can…

Marc Jacobs is wearing a baby blue sweater that appears, even through the Zoom screen’s distortion, as soft as swansdown. He’s accessorized it with a string of pearls, dark red nail polish, and a healthy amount of quarantine beard growth. “I’m in my element,” the designer says of the Soho hotel room where he’s been holed up during self-isolation. He describes it as a “giant closet” full of clothes and makeup to experiment with. “These inanimate things, this palette of stuff we choose to create our identity with,” he says, “it’s alive, and when it’s not alive, I’m not interested.” Jacobs’s exuberant quarantine looks and makeup “Too-Torials” have been giving his Instagram followers plenty of life. He’s focused on elaborate eye makeup, since you can still showcase it while wearing…

TWO EPIDEMICS—the coronavirus and systemic racism—have spread across the United States, and Jurnee Smollett, like most Black people, is still trying to process them. “It’s a time of shifts, it’s a time of change, it’s a time of detox,” says the 33-year-old actress and activist in late June. “It’s a rest, yet it’s also filled with so much mourning and this collective grief that I know we’re all experiencing.” She’s calling from California, a state that has seen a spike in COVID-19 cases in recent days, to talk about her latest project: Lovecraft Country, a new drama series premiering August 16 on HBO. The show, which takes place in 1950s Jim Crow America, feels disturbingly—but not unsurprisingly—timely. “The unfortunate thing about our nation is that [Lovecraft] could have been released…

When looking back on this summer of protest and racial reckoning, the question I’ll always struggle with is one dripping with skepticism that’s hardearned, if not entirely productive. What made this uprising different for so many white people who sat up, took notice, donated money, shared resources, took to the streets, called out and in, and self-reflected, seemingly for the first time? The question nags at me, but even as I realize that there are responses that could possibly edify me, none could ever satisfy. Better to steep in the bittersweet reality in which we find ourselves. Progress is progress, after all—the journey of a thousand miles and all that. Certainly for the first time in my life, larger-than-usual swaths of white people appear to be seeing their schools, neighborhoods,…