Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2021 i delicious

OUR ANNUAL ODE to Italy is as anticipated with our team and readers as that amaretti tiramisu on the cover this month – bold, indulgent and mouthwatering, with the alchemy that only cream, coffee and dark chocolate offer. There’s something about Italy… How to define it? Rinaldo Di Stasio of Citta in Melbourne has trademarked the term Italianity, describing it as the essence of a cultural identity, or the meeting of his “uniquely Italian Australian-ness, and my uniquely Australian Italianity”. An exploration of how we come together – for Italians, it’s innate. What is better than eating or entertaining with friends and family, influenced by art, design, wine, produce, conversation and culture, particularly with the Mediterranean in mind? When it comes to entertaining John Fink and his cohorts at the…

@instakrill MITCH ORR – one of Sydney’s great pasta chefs – doesn’t cook at home. “It’s true, I love being a customer at a restaurant. If I’m working six nights a week, then I will spend my one night off at a restaurant enjoying the creativity of my friends and other chefs in the city.” Orr is back in the kitchen at Pilu at Freshwater (pictured above) following a 12-year hiatus, while also working on a range of jacked-up jar sauces called Made by Mitch. “I wanted to take what everyone loved at Acme, and turn it into something they could recreate at home.” The new range includes two of Acme’s most iconic pasta sauces – the shiitake XO, and black garlic and burnt chilli – and a macaroni-and-pig’s-head pasta…

1 Citrus Look out for in-season oranges, mandarins, grapefruits, lemons, bergamot, Tahitian limes, yuzu, and cumquats. 2 Brussels Sprouts Sprouts are sweeter after the first winter frost. Look for them on the stalk as they keep fresh for longer. 3 Truffles Add truffles to butter or infuse in oil, grate over pasta, and use any extra to steep in vodka for a truffled vodka martini. For more on the latest restaurant, cafe and bar reviews, head to delicious.com.au/eat-out.…

C: How do you rank your top three Italian dishes? A: Bolognese is the Elton John of Italian dishes. I think lasagne is under bolognese. C: Risotto? A: Pizza! Pizza is number three. C: That could be number one! A: Maybe pizza, bolognese then lasagne are the top three. C: I have to agree with you there. Beef cheek lasagne. Love it. It’s called a lasagne but it’s layered Irish and Croatian. A: It’s a ragu with beef cheeks. They’re gelatinous, unctuous. It’s about time we took lasagne to the next level. And that’s where the beef cheek comes in. C: The stock is not just tomato, it’s this beefy tomato stock, and it’s not mincy, it’s more like a pulled meat kind of lasagne. A: More substance. Less carbs,…

WHAT’S THE MARK of a good pasta bake? According to chef Monty Koludrovic it’s a burnt tongue. “The first bite is always a bit too hot because you can’t wait to let it cool down – that’s a good sign,” he says. Of course, there are other qualities that make pasta bakes king of the dinner table. “They’re supremely comforting, cheesy and savoury. They’re so flexible and forgiving, and you can take them in any direction you like. Serve them with a sharp salad or any green vegetable – and voila!” It’s the dish’s easy-as vibe that does it for Monty, who shares some of his favourite versions on these pages. From a family-friendly fusilli bake featuring meatballs, four-cheese cannelloni, and the classic cheesy macaroni, to a lamb shank bake…

I LOVE A wine bar! These small places the world over are dedicated to the celebration of great food and wine served in an intimate, energetic environment. In Italy, such places are speckled throughout small piazze and are the meeting points that form the centre of society. All walks of life come together over plates of finely cured meats and cheese. When we started Ombra we wanted to capture that energy and sense of welcoming for our own Melbourne community. Ombra means ‘shadow’ and refers to the wine merchants of old who would move their carts around the town square to stay in the shadow of the church spire, thus keeping out of the sun and stopping the wine from spoiling. The food we make at Ombra is rooted in…

JACI KOLUDROVIC’S TIRAMISU WITH ORANGE CURD AND MASCARPONE MOUSSE SERVES 6-8 “This is my tiramisu with a lovely orange twist. I recommend using strong espresso for the soaking liquid, even if that means ducking out to the cafe to grab a few shots! I make this recipe the day before so that when it comes time to serve, I’m ready and not fannying about in the kitchen while everyone else is out having fun! Besides, tira is always best eaten on day two, anyway!” Begin this recipe at least 6 hours ahead. 220ml strong espresso35g caster sugar2 tbs Kahlua1½ tbs marsala200g savoiardi biscuits ORANGE CURD Zest of 1 orange, plus 300ml juiceZest of ½ lemon100g caster sugar4 eggs, plus 2 extra yolks2 gold-strength gelatine leaves225g unsalted butter, softened40g candied orange…

@theadventuremamma It’s night-time in Matera. During the day this prehistoric Italian town is the grey of limestone, riddled with ant-like visitors scuttling between buildings. But at night it’s black with a smattering of twinkling lights and so quiet that while dashing down a sinuous alley culminating in an unexpected dead end, the hammer of my heart seems to echo in surround sound. Is there a villain in pursuit? Defenceless, trapped, there’s only person who could save the moment. Bond, James Bond. Are you here? Well, he was a hot minute ago; we’ve missed him by only a month. My companions and I are hunting locations from the latest Bond film No Time To Die, and if Daniel Craig emerged from the shadows in a tuxedo, I would be stirred, but…

perfect night in Take your homemade pizzas to a whole new level with Mutti’s new authentic pizzeria-style sauces. Each jar is made the Italian way, with perfectly ripe chopped tomatoes and herbs. Visit: mutti-parma.com sunshine toast With layered complexity, a strong regional character and a distinctive twist, Plantation Brew Co vodka is distilled from golden sweet potatoes grown in the volcanic soils of Eastern Queensland. Visit: plantationbrewco.com golden delicious Find out what all the hype is about with the Philips Airfryer XXL. Fat-removal technology separates and captures excess fat for healthier, crisper home-cooked meals. Smart Sensing systems do all the thinking and cooking for you. Visit: harveynorman.com.au raisin the bar Add a burst of sunshine to your cooking with Sunbeam sultanas, raisins, currants and mixed fruit. The juicy goodness in…

MOST-LIKED POST 5326 likes, 108 comments This rich and robust mushroom ragu lasagne is pasta-bly the best vegetarian lasagne we’ve ever had. But don’t take our word for it. Packed with porcini, Swiss brown and button mushrooms and topped with an oh-so-cheesy béchamel, you won’t find better company on a cool night. Find the recipe at delicious.com.au Recipe: @phoeberosewood Photography: @chriscourt Styling: @kirstenljenkins TAKE THE CAKE I recently made Phoebe Wood’s lamington cheesecake (February 2021) which reminded me of my childhood, and of my mother’s delicious homemade cakes. I made the cake for a farewell to a work collegue and it ranked the top of them all! Everyone asked where I got such a great cheesecake recipe. I felt very proud to have put a smile on my colleagues’ satisfied…

PASTA E FAGIOLI SERVES 4 20g chopped shio kombu (seasoned kelp, from Asian food shops)1.5kg fresh borlotti beans, podded (or 600g podded beans)2 tbs extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve3 eschalots, finely sliced4 garlic cloves, finely sliced400g can diced San Marzano tomatoes2 cups (500ml) vegetable stock400g ditalini pasta½ bunch basil, leaves picked, torn Finely grated parmesan, to serve Place half the shio kombu in a medium saucepan with 4 cups (1L) water and bring to the boil. Remove the kombu with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the borlotti beans to the saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 25-30 minutes until the beans are tender. Set aside one quarter of the cooked beans. Place the remaining beans and 2 cups…

@erinastarkey GRAIN POWER There’s a new place to break bread in Sydney and it’s definitely not one for the carb conscious. Grana (above and main), which translates to ‘grain’ in Italian, brings fresh bread and pasta to the historic Hinchcliff House in Circular Quay. The all-day eatery mills its own flour on site using locally sourced heritage grains like spelt, emmer and khorasan. Not a crumb goes to waste, with yesterday’s loaves turned into crostini and pangrattato. TABLE TALK 1 Ascend to level three of Melbourne’s Next Hotel and prepare to be greeted by La Madonna (above), a luxe new restaurant and bar by acclaimed chefs Daniel Natoli and Adrian Li. The menu combines Italian and Asian influences, with dishes like cavatelli with king prawns and black sesame, and the…

FAIR GAME, which is based in Goolmangar in northern New South Wales, takes aim at wild deer, an invasive species regarded as a pest in Australia. “The wild deer population is a huge problem in Australia,” says Fair Game owner Jonas Widjaja. “Because the numbers are so great, they can be really damaging to crops as well as the natural environment and biodiversity as a whole.” Many land owners want their properties cleared of wild deer because of the financial and environmental impact, and companies like Fair Game ensure the meat doesn’t go to waste in the process. Widjaja hails from New Zealand, which is one of the leading producers and consumers of venison in the world. “I’m surprised it’s not more popular here. It’s a lean, healthy meat with…

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WITH THE REGULARITY of a tax bill or a teenager asking for money arrives this Italian issue of delicious., and as the magazine’s resident contrarian it falls to me to take a different look at the amazing world of Italian food. While the other pages in the magazine will laud the regional strengths and produce-driven simplicity of the cucina povera, I get to take a more jaundiced view. In the past, we’ve looked at ‘Britalian’, ‘Shitalian’ and why there are so many more Italian celebrity chefs outside Italy. I’ve also anointed Italy’s 10 best dishes – obviously lasagne won – but never have we looked at the dishes that Italy got wrong. Until now. Yes, amazingly among the simple genius of pizza, pasta and risotto and the thousands of brilliant…

@mrbenwilliamson “WRITING THESE RECIPES was easy!” says Ben Williamson, chef and mastermind behind the menu at Brisbane’s Italian diner, Bianca. “We’ve tested them all at the restaurant, and they’re dishes I’d be happy to keep on the menu forever. Bianca is fun and vibrant, and this food is all about being approachable and delicious. It highlights the communal nature of Italian dining – great food should be shared.” As for the inspiration behind these plates, “there are elements that I’ve pulled from my trips to Italy over the years, from Rome to the Amalfi Coast… but I’d say these recipes are the South East Queensland regional variant,” Williamson says. “Using the best local produce and letting each ingredient sing… I love the simplicity of that.” This produce-driven approach shines in…

“NO BASIL? REWRITE THE RULES WITH THIS PEA PESTO.” @phoeberosewood TOMATO VODKA RIGATONI SERVES 4 ¼ cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil1 onion, finely chopped4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced¾ cup (210g) tomato paste½ cup (125ml) vodka¼ cup (60ml) thickened cream½ cup (40g) finely grated parmesan400g rigatoni, cooked to packet instructions, ¼ cup (60ml) cooking water reserved Heat oil in a large non-stick frypan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, and cook, stirring, for 5-6 minutes until softened. Add tomato paste and stir for 2 minutes or until lightly caramelised. Add vodka and cook for 4-5 minutes. Stir in cream, parmesan and ¼ cup (60ml) reserved cooking water, and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and season to taste. Stir through rigatoni to coat in the sauce then…

CHOCOLATE & HAZELNUT BOMBOLONI MAKES 24 Begin this recipe at least 3 hours ahead. You will need a 5cm pastry cutter, deep-frying thermometer and a piping bag with a 1cm nozzle. 7g sachet dried instant yeast1 cup (250ml) milk, lukewarm⅓ cup (75g) caster sugar2⅔ cups (400g) plain flour¼ cup (25g) Dutch cocoa, sifted1 egg, lightly beaten50g unsalted butter, chopped, softened Vegetable oil, to deep-fry1 cup (330g) Nutella (or alternative chocolate-hazelnut spread) HAZELNUT SUGAR 1 cup (220g) white sugar¼ cup (35g) hazelnuts, roasted and skins removed, finely ground Combine the yeast, milk and 1 tsp of the sugar in a jug and set aside in a warm place for 10 minutes or until frothy. Place flour, remaining 70g sugar and cocoa in a stand mixer with the dough hook. Add the…

MAD ABOUT HUE Australian owned and Italian made, bold new beauty brand Flavedo & Albedo creates beauty products with zero plastic packaging. The brand’s cruelty-free, multi-tasking formulas stay sans plastic by switching to sustainable packaging options like aluminium, glass and cork. Bonus? Aside from the velvet eyeliner in sky blue, they’re also completely vegan. It’s a si from us. flavedoandalbedo.com The Godfather Featuring the distinct flavours of Sicily, Siciliano: Contemporary Sicilian is a celebration of chef Joe Vargetto’s heritage, with recipes inspired by his mother’s home cooking. $49.95, from good book retailers and melbournebooks.com.au IN THE BAG Keep calm and carry on with the HERSHAN utility tote. Handcrafted in Portugal, it’s available in three sizes (medium, $525, and large, $575, pictured) and four hues, it’s totes guaranteed to become your…

It was the morning of our most recent lockdown that I purchased the May issue of delicious. Suddenly, my super-busy weekend was full of open opportunities, and I felt relief. Saturday morning was spent lying in bed being served breakfast and coffee, while reading the mgazine end to end. A rare treat. I absorbed the decadent low and slow recipes and they inspired me to do what I love most during quiet time at home. First I made Ottolenghi’s berry and brown butter toast crumble. A way to bring comfort to the children who were feeling worried about what the next week would bring. Then I took the family for a trip down memory lane with the Filipino chicken adobo. We reminisced about our time living in the Philippines, reliving…

BRUSSELS SPROUTS “I think we’ve all started to get over the trauma of extremely overboiled sprouts from previous generations. We all know how good brussels sprouts can be, roasted with pancetta or deep fried with a lemony dressing. Like pretty much all cabbages, brussels sprouts are delicious when finely sliced and served raw, with a sweet nutty flavour and squeaky texture. Look for firm, tightly packed sprouts with nice colouring. If you can grab them at your local farmers’ market still on the branch, even better!” BORLOTTI BEANS Beans are a staple of cucina povera, full of nutrients and nourishment. They make such a luscious, velvety sauce. I love the way this sauce [in the pasta e fagioli] envelops the pasta. When purchasing, look for firm, smooth beans. Borlotti beans…

THIS DISH HAS won the hearts of adults and children alike, and for good reason: it’s easy to prepare, fun to eat and doesn’t call upon any hard-to-source ingredients. Cooking the spaghetti in this way lends plenty of texture, allowing for crispier bits at the edges and softer bits throughout. Feel free to make this dish your own by using up any soft herbs or hard cheeses you have on hand, or sprucing it up further with the addition of spice (cumin would work great here). Serve with some lightly cooked greens for a complete meal. Yotam Ottolenghi is chef-patron of the London-based Ottolenghi delis and the NOPI and ROVI restaurants. He has published eight bestselling cookbooks – his latest is Flavour, out now. @ottolenghi @ottolengh ONE-PAN CRISPY SPAGHETTI AND…

@ottoristorante “WE DON’T FOLLOW TRENDS,” says John Fink, creative director of Fink – the hospo giant responsible for some of the country’s most celebrated restaurants. It’s a headstrong approach that has clearly paid off. Sitting waterside in Woolloomooloo, Sydney, John and the Fink team are toasting to a fairly unusual milestone in the hospitality industry – 21 years of OTTO, the group’s iconic Italian fine diner. “Twenty-one is a long time in restaurant years,” says Fink. “OTTO has certainly evolved with the times, but it has, and always will, stay true to what has made it a dining institution. We are here for our guests, ready and waiting with seamless service, impeccable modern Italian fare, and a healthy helping of la dolce vita.” This dedication to hospitality – the old-world…

RIBOLLITA WITH PARMESAN DUMPLINGS SERVES 4 100ml extra virgin olive oil40g unsalted butter1 onion, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, crushed1 fennel, finely chopped, fronds reserved1 carrot, finely chopped½ bunch thyme, leaves picked400g can cannellini beans (we used Woolworths Macro organic cannellini beans)6 cups (1.5L) chicken or vegetable stock400g can cherry tomatoes1 parmesan rind½ bunch cavolo nero, blanched, refreshed PARMESAN DUMPLINGS 3 cups (210g) coarse fresh sourdough breadcrumbs1 cup (80g) finely grated parmesan, plus extra to serve2 eggs, lightly beaten½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely choppedZest of 1 lemon For the dumplings place all ingredients into a bowl, season and combine. Roll mixture into 20 balls. Place on a tray lined with baking paper and chill until ready to cook. Heat oil and butter in a large saucepan over high heat. Add onion,…

@michaeljamesbakes SAVOURY BAKING IS a great way to highlight vegetables and celebrate the joy of eating seasonally. This is a style of cooking that stretches our creativity at the same time as being deeply soothing. When Pippa and I owned our bakery, Tivoli Road, many of our savoury bakes had an almost cult-like following. People queued not just for the bread, doughnuts and croissants, but for breakfast rolls, pies, sausage rolls and more. Our first book, The Tivoli Road Baker, included a small selection of our savoury repertoire, and one of the highlights of that book was the wonderful feedback from people who said how much they use those recipes and love them. It’s been wonderful to see more people baking at home, using produce from their local market or…

@renatagortan @renatagortan My hair is still crusty from an ocean swim as I sip a glass of sauvignon while overlooking the vineyard where the grape is grown. There aren’t a lot of places where wine country meets salty waves, which is what makes the New South Wales South Coast so special. While the food scene has always had a reputation – it’s hard to go past Berry and not stop at the Donut Van – its wineries have flown under the radar. But that’s changing, says Kate Mather who launched South Coast Experiences in September 2020, as local tourists who can’t travel overseas are discovering there’s more to the coast than just stunning beaches. “Food is the big one, in-house catering was popular over Covid, but people who had never…