Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2017 i delicious

IT’S CONSIDERED IMPOLITE TO talk politics and religion at the dinner table, but somehow Easter combines both. (Although not politics of the traditional kind.) Table politics are unique to every family, and special occasions bring out those, er, unique traditions, tactics and quirks each unit has. Only recently did my mother let me help her in the kitchen at Christmas. (My campaign was sustained and subtle; she had to relent when I became a ripe old ‘middle ager’, or ‘middle rager’ as I am more popularly known.) I know it took all her willpower to let me use her pots and pans and oven, as all the while I griped about her lack of food processor and Nespresso machine. For other families, there are differences in who eats what, who…

MENU Miso radishes Whipped cod roe, herbs de provence Potato & rosemary bread, butter dip, avocado, pickles Snapper carpaccio, sour peppers Local calamari, salted cucumber, house sour curd Stracciatella, green tomatoes, green olives Chicken bits & bobs salad Black Angus flank, romano beans, tarragon Grilled strawberry & peach mess BOOK NOW! WE’RE TEAMING TWO OF Melbourne’s brightest culinary stars for the second of our Take Two Chefs collaborations. Joining Pope Joan owner and delicious. contributor Matt Wilkinson in the kitchen of his Brunswick East restaurant is Dave Verheul, the highly regarded head chef at Carlton’s The Town Mouse and Embla, in the city’s CBD. This is a double act that’s sure to deliver, with Matt kicking the evening off with his miso radishes, while Dave delivers whipped cod roe and…

GO GLOBAL THE WORLD’S BEST BARS, DELIVERED? BEAN BAR YOU TAILORS BOXES JUST FOR YOU. OR TRY THEIR MAX MILK SELECTION . $44.95.BEANBARYOU.COM.AU THE ULTIMATE EGG TAKE YOUR EASTER EGG GAME UP A LEVEL WITH A BURCH & PURCHESE PAINTED SINGLE-ORIGIN DARK CHOCOLATE EGG. (PSSST, IT’S ALSO VEGAN!) $38. BURCHANDPURCHESE.COM.AU Peppermint-frog-filled eggs wrapped in bright foil are just one of Haigh’s Easter treats. $15.95. haighschocolates.com.au HAPPY PICKINGS THERE’S A CHOCOLATE FOR EVERYONE IN A KOKO BLACK 42-PIECE SEASONAL KEEPSAKE GIFT BOX. WE’VE GOT DIBS ON THE ALMOND PRALINE! $89.KOKOBLACK.COM MINI MARVELS DELICATE AND DECADENT, THESE HAZELNUT PRALINE QUAIL EGGS FROM LIXIE WILL DELIGHT CHOCOHOLICS. $15. LIXIE.COM.AU…

A GUT FEELING is an excellent indicator of a good restaurant. I’m not talking about being happily full (although that is quite nice); I’m talking about an overall positive impression when the energy of the room, the sincerity of the service, the enthusiasm of the eating and the allure of the atmosphere combine to form a perfect circle. And although it doesn’t guarantee success, some restaurants just possess that seductive swagger from the get-go. Blanca may not be a perfect restaurant (what restaurant truly is?), but it feels right. Part of the new development on Bondi’s Hall Street that includes A Tavola and Da Orazio Pizza & Porchetta, it’s the first foray into the Australian market for globetrotting Finnish chef Tomi Björck and his Aussie cheffing chum Samuel Cole. We…

WHEN I THINK OF APRIL, I think of Anzac Day. And when I think of Anzac Day, I think of my nan. My family regularly attended Dawn Service with Nan, followed by a cuppa and some baked treats at the local RSL. Later in the day, I would march with Tewantin Primary School, proudly displaying Nan’s medals on my school uniform. I loved helping Nan with her baking; I got to sample a lot of batters and doughs ahead of their cooking time and adored every minute of my time with her. In hindsight, her polite warnings not to eat too many ‘offcuts’ because I’d get a tummy ache were early signs of my gluten and wheat intolerance. Like almost all my recipes, this one is gluten and grain free,…

DARREN ROBERTSON IS A man on the go right now, commuting regularly between Three Blue Ducks’ Sydney and Byron outposts. So with only so many hours in the day, it’s highly apt that his autumn roasts are designed to be as easy as possible – whether you’re entertaining a crowd or simply feeding the family – and not too heavy. “ They’re all fuss-free roasts, and not complicated at all,” says Robertson. “And they’re actually quite light. I’m using citrusy salads and lots of shaved vegies, which is how I like to eat. They’re definitely a lot more relevant than the old massive joints of pork or beef with heaps of vegies and gravy. It’s not Christmas dinner! “And there’s nothing here that’s particularly hard to find – there’s oranges,…

FOR ME, MUSHROOMS are one of the most extraordinarily mysterious ingredients out there. They come in so many shapes and sizes, and their health benefits have been glorified for thousands of years. Naturally, I’ll be focusing only on the edible varieties here! I’d encourage all of you to look out for and try as many varieties as you can find in shops and at produce markets, and embrace them in your cooking. One great sadness in my life is that my wife hates mushrooms and refuses to eat them. However, I have been secretly hiding them in her favourite soups, gravies, stuffings and risottos for nearly 20 years. I’m not saying lying is a good idea, but this does tell you that mushrooms have an incredible ability to bring a…

CHOC BANOFFEE PANCAKES SERVES 4 11/2 cups (225g) self-raising flour, sifted 1/2 tsp baking powder 1/4 cup (25g) good-quality cocoa powder, sifted, plus extra to serve 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar 4 eggs, separated, plus 1 extra eggwhite 11/2 cups (375ml) buttermilk 50g unsalted butter, softened 300ml thickened cream, whipped to soft peaks 3 bananas, thickly sliced Chopped dark (70%) chocolate, to serve CARAMEL 1 cup (220g) caster sugar 100g salted butter, chopped 1/2 cup (125ml) pure (thin) cream For the caramel, place sugar and 2 tbs water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Swirl to dissolve sugar, then cook for 6-7 minutes or until golden. Remove from heat and carefully stir in butter and cream. Cool to room temperature. To make the pancakes, combine the flour, baking powder,…

“YOU WANT THE OUTSIDE NICE AND THIN. BECAUSE IDEALLY WHAT YOU WANT TO EAT OF THE BURRATA IS THE INSIDE.” SHOES, AS THEY SAY, make the man. Shoelaces, though, caused as much heated debate in the schoolyard as did my apple and cheese sandwiches. (Guys, it’s like the morsels on a cheese plate in sandwich form. Come on!) Anyway, just as everyone was mastering their signature shoelace-tying technique, along came the new breed of shoe with velcro straps to question convention. The zip-lock-bag shoes of a generation put convenience ahead of style. And sure, although it would have solved the conundrum of the laces of my left shoe constantly coming undone, I couldn’t part from my roots. I remained ‘old skool’ and kept tying a knot. So it’s apt, as…

#MAKEITDELICIOUS PHOTO OF THE MONTH Listening to the Triple J Hot 100 and cooking these zucchini and haloumi fritters with green goddess dressing (Feb 17, p 88 ). A day well spent! #makeitdelicious @annabeltaylor1 FOOD MEMORIES: The front cover of February’s delicious. got me thinking of the fritters my mother cooked when I was young. I made it my mission to re-create them from your recipe for zucchini and haloumi fritters (On Trend, p 88). I was not disappointed, and what an easy meal to whip up. I will be passing this one on to my mum to try. Penny Ingram IN THE GROOVE: I’m a regular subscriber to delicious. – in fact for more than seven years, from a time when I lived in Singapore…

“I began spanner crabbing in the mid ’80s when the crabs sold to the domestic market were often of inferior quality – the good-quality stuff was exported. The result was spanners gaining a bad reputation. “My belief in spanners as a superior product has never waned. When we were granted authority to sell directly off the boat, I decided to market straight to the public and started selling small quantities of live crabs from the back of my ute. “We treat our product with great respect, and from the humble beginnings we now have a business where I control the quality, the cooking and the direct sale to my customers. It’s hugely satisfying to have built up a large clientele. “I take great pride in the product I offer from…

Jonathan Barthelmess is the first chef to open a modern Greek restaurant in Japan. Well, as far as he knows, that is. But judging by the response, he certainly won’t be the last. The chef launched a satellite of his Sydney local The Apollo in Tokyo last year with business partner Sam Christie, and has seen it hit the ground running, with bookings coming thick and fast. As far as it is from his restaurant in Potts Point (and after having to go through the Greek Embassy to source dairy and pita), The Apollo Ginza has worked because of an approach embedded in his heritage and drummed into him during his training, where he cites chefs Stefano Manfredi and Janni Kyritsis as inspirations. “In cooking, it’s very important to source…

At his restaurant, Central, in Lima, Virgilio Martínez serves a dish millions of years in the making. It’s a single scallop, cured for three hours in tumbo (a type of passionfruit), sparsely covered in fragments of seaweed crisps and twigs of algae that have been brushed with a sugar he makes from Peruvian fruits, then fried. The dish is cold, one bite, and served on a scallop shell fossilised in rock. Inspired by finding fossilised scallops in the Ocucaje Desert – now bone dry, but once an ocean – as well as a native Peruvian method of making an early form of ceviche using tumbo , Martínez merges time, place and people together into one moment. It was an unusual path to the top for the Peruvian chef, who traded…

AFTER A “TERRIBLE” SUMMER of heat and little rain, Martin Boetz is savouring the relief that cooler weather brings. It’s the perfect opportunity to kick back with friends and supporters of the Cooks Co-op, a thriving enterprise in Sackville, just over an hour from Sydney’s CBD, that’s part farm, part events space and part teaching and education venue. “Why would you buy a $1.2 million unrenovated terrace in Surry Hills when you can have this?” asks Boetz, surveying the 11-hectare property that includes his home, a guest cottage, a thriving market garden and the charming Event Shed, where today’s lunch is being held. With no agricultural experience behind him, Boetz doesn’t deny that his rural relocation has been difficult, but there are no regrets. “There’s more depth to it,” he…

AS THE SEASONS CHANGE, so do my cravings as I eagerly enjoy the new bounty of produce that’s coming through the garden. Traditionally, autumn was the harvest period when people stored food and prepared for winter, so to me, it’s about truly relishing all that the garden has to offer. As the nights start to cool and the mornings get a little crisper, I begin to reintroduce some satisfying soups to the table. Not quite as heavy as the braises and stews we so readily delight in during winter, but still hearty enough to please, these quick and simple soups are delicious and among my favourites. TOMATO & CAPSICUM GAZPACHO SERVES 6-8 AS A STARTER 1kg roma tomatoes, roughly chopped 2 each red capsicums and long red chillies, seeds removed,…

HAPPY & WHOLE IS about the joy of cooking and sharing food, slowing down and moving towards a more natural and balanced way of nourishment – a way that even a few decades ago would have been the norm, but in our busy, modern lives, seems to have been forgotten. For me, it’s all about balance and common sense, focusing on real, nutrient-rich foods that make us feel good and are as close to their natural state as possible. That’s it. It’s not about trends, superfoods or cutting anything out. I’ve written this book because I want to share my favourite recipes, rituals and tips that bring me happiness and comfort, in the hope they will enrich your life in some way, too. BROCCOLI SLAW SERVES 4 500g…

“Apple harvest marks the beginning of autumn to me. As a chill enters the air and autumnal hues weave their way onto our plates, dessert becomes a toss-up between apple pie or apple crumble made with tart Granny Smiths, while my desk snack is a crisp Pink Lady and my morning Bircher a recipient of whatever graces the farmers’ market. More than anything, a great apple reminds me of the importance of seasonality – they always taste best right now.” AUTUMN BIRCHER WITH ORANGE & RHUBARB SYRUP SERVES 8 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 4 Granny Smith apples 11/2 cups (135g) rolled oats 400ml coconut milk 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 1/3 cup (80ml) maple syrup 2 cups (560g) thick Greek-style yoghurt 2 rhubarb stalks,…

There is something cleansing about leaving behind all the air-kissing and pocket-pissing of Los Angeles and pointing the wheels of the Hellcat north towards the promise of salt spray and ocean vistas that unfold curve after endless curve along California’s Pacific coast. Along the way, there’s the prospect of tacos, oysters, good times and the avowed aim of avoiding the touristy (an issue on one of the most touristy drives in the world). There’s no point starting a road trip with an empty stomach, so fuel up at Venice Beach’s Gjusta (320 Sunset Ave). This super-hip smokehouse and bakehouse is conveniently placed between LAX and the highway – and let’s face it, the drive past Santa Barbara and Ventura is pretty uninspiring unless you’re a huge fan of the second…

THE MELBOURNE RESTAURANT SCENE IS A MOVEABLE FEAST, SO TO HELP YOU NAVIGATE A RAFT OF NEWCOMERS, SARAH GAMBONI HAS CHERRY-PICKED 15 VENUES THAT ARE SURE TO HIT THE SPOT, FROM DARING DEGUSTATION MENUS TO CHIC BISTROS AND SLEEK CAFES. HOT IN THE CITY 1 WINE DINING Don’t let its wine-bar billing fool you the food at Embla (122 Russell St; embla.com.au) is equally rave-worthy. From Christian McCabe and Dave Verheul, of Town Mouse fame, comes this CBD stunner lined with rich timbers, brass fixtures and black leather. Settle in for a glass of Grand Cru Chablis or biodynamic Australian pinot, matched with punchy share plates of pippies with Serrano ham and basil, or smoky grilled trout with saltbush. 2 FLYING THE FLAG FOR FRANCE French is flavour of…

“Nothing brings on a smile like the printed words ‘all-day breakfast’. This menu has every taste bud sorted. Whether you’re partial to sweet, or savoury is your thing, this one has it all.” Effie White, art director delicious. on Sunday BRUNCH SPREAD WEEKEND INDULGENCE Choc banoffee pancakes, p 102 All-day pan-cooked breakfast, p 84 Apple chai & ricotta muffins with apple dukkah, p 116 “I like to kick off the weekend with a fun-loving-but-fancy cocktail, then shift into something just a bit special from the wine cellar or bottle shop. Fridays are always something to celebrate. Treat yourself!” Mike Bennie, drinks writer GOOD FRIDAY TASTE OF THE SEA Glazed octopus skewers with chunky fattoush, p 60 Ochota Barrels Slint Chardonnay 2016 Fish escabeche, p 52 Spinifex Rosé 2016…

BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH ALMONDS AND SKORDALIA SERVES 4 AS A SIDE 1/3 cup (55g) almonds, roughly chopped 1/3 cup (55g) sunflower seeds 1/4 cup (60ml) red wine vinegar 2 small red chillies, seeds removed, finely chopped 1 bunch mint, leaves picked 500g Brussels sprouts, halved 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle SKORDALIA 300g sourdough, roughly torn 2 garlic cloves Juice of1/2 a lemon 1 preserved lemon quarter, flesh and white pith discarded, finely chopped 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil For the skordalia, place the sourdough in a heatproof bowl and pour over enough boiling water to just cover. Set aside for 10 minutes to soften. Strain well, then place in a food processor with remaining ingredients. Whiz until smooth, then set aside for…

THE GUT REACTION WITH chocolate and wine pairing is to go a dessert wine. But stay with me as I work through some smart alternatives that just might take your post-main-course lifestyle to the next level. Let’s start by diving right into the kind of synergies that sommeliers are bringing to avant-garde dining. “There’s a certain comfort to dessert wines being poured for chocolate-based desserts,” says Momofuku group sommelier Richard Hargreave. “But I think being a bit more edgy, and yet working more keenly on flavours complementing each other, is the real way to go.” Hargreave was the first to really show me how well whisky went with chocolate, particularly the smokier Scottish drams from Islay. “That smoky edge just adds another dimension to dark chocolate,” he says. “And the…

WHAT IS THE GREATER CUISINE? That of an imperial court that can draw on culinary exotica from across its empire, or the cash-strapped cooking of the poor of history? It’s an age-old debate, but I’d argue that the pre-eminence of frugal cuisine over its uptown cousin is confirmed by how many more peasant recipes have made it into our kitchens. So let’s celebrate frugal cooking with… SECONDARY CUTS: For flavour and texture, harder-working secondary cuts and more texturally interesting offal win every time. No one loves these more than the Italians, who even named an arm of their encyclopaedic culinary skills ‘cucina povera’ – or poor kitchen. This has given us great recipes for everything from tripe and stale bread (more on that later) to what to do with the…

“I was lucky enough to grow up with an appreciation for quick and healthy Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine. And not just for the food, but also the generosity it represents. If you’re new to these flavours, however, check out our handy shopping list (p 63) to get your head around them. Then, whether you cook one quick dish or all of them, they’re perfect for sharing with friends or family.” GLAZED OCTOPUS SKEWERS WITH CHUNKY FATTOUSH SERVES 4-6 You will need 8 metal skewers. 330ml pear cider 2 tbs olive oil 1/4 cup (60ml) pomegranate molasses, plus extra to serve 2 tsp sumac, plus extra to serve 1kg baby octopus, cleaned 1/3 cup (80ml) apple cider vinegar 1 bunch marjoram 2 Lebanese breads, torn 500g mixed heirloom cherry tomatoes…

WATCH THE SALT Statistics show that Australians consume too much sodium. The National Health and Medical Research Council has a suggested dietary target for adults (aged 19 and over) of 1600mg sodium (4g salt) per day and recommends staying below an upper daily intake level of 2300mg (6g salt, or 1 tsp). The latest Australian Health Survey (2011-12) results indicate most of us exceed this, with average daily intake (Australians aged two years and over) being 2404mg. And these figures do not even include salt added in cooking or sprinkled on meals at the table! HOW LOW CAN YOU GO? A good way to reduce overall sodium intake is to focus on a diet of fresh fruit, vegetables, lean meats, fish, whole grains, legumes, nuts, seeds and dairy foods. Also,…

From stunning table settings to inspiring recipes, your Easter styling is sorted with Ferrero Rocher Tips for Easter entertaining NATURAL BEAUTY The striking combination of green and gold is a well-loved palette for many Australian celebrations, and the Easter table setting is no exception. This year, forego the multicoloured decorations and flowers for a sophisticated spread using neutral whites and greys as a backdrop for beautiful golden Ferrero Rocher chocolates and standout sprigs of greenery. Decorative foliage in a simple glass bottle or jar instead of a floral bouquet is a classic embodiment of the mantra ‘less is more’. GOOD EGGS Take a leaf out of the Easter Bunny’s playbook and reward your guests with mouth-watering treats from Ferrero Rocher – the signature golden foil doubles as a decorative addition…

THE CAKES, TARTS AND PIES here are from my new book, My Kind of Food , which is filled with the recipes I love and prepare at home. Tried and tested many times over, they reflect the way I cook for my friends and family. My approach to cooking is simple: use the best ingredients you can find, get organised and follow a reliable recipe. Having said that, I am not precious about my recipes – my greatest joy is experimenting in the kitchen. So feel free to use these as a base and then adapt to suit your style and whatever ingredients you have on hand. Surely that’s what cooking is all about? Having fun in the kitchen and creating a dish you are proud to call your own.…

“SUNRISE HILLTOP YOGA OVERLOOKING THE BEACH OR A SUNSET HORSE RIDE SHOULD HELP WASH ANY CARES AWAY.” I’VE NO SOONER ARRIVED at Nihiwatu Resort on Sumba Island than I’m offered a fresh coconut punctured with a sugar-cane straw. I may only be an hour’s flight from Bali’s Denpasar Airport, but here at the south-eastern tip of Indonesia, aka the edge of wilderness, I’m a million miles from the stresses of reality. As I sip on the cooling nectar, I’m greeted by my sarong-clad butler, here to guide me to one of the resort’s Marangga villas, my home for the next week. Inside, Sumba’s ancient tribal culture meets modern luxury. Don’t be fooled by the thatched roof, these uber-luxe villas feature a private bar, four-poster bed with ocean views straight from…

cruising along Experience Europe in a new light with Travelmarvel cruises. Travel through several different countries for up to 21 days in carefree luxury on ships that are among the best to cruise the continent’s waterways. Visit: travelmarvel.com.au jam session Almost 50 years after Barker’s started preserving fruit and vegies in rural New Zealand, the company has a fresh new look. Keep an eye out on shelves for their batch-made and slow-cooked traditional jams. Visit: barkers.co.nz your dairy alternative Keep your clean-eating resolutions on track with Australia’s Own Organic alternatives to dairy. The range of unsweetened non-dairy milks will hit the spot and leave you satisfied. Visit: australiasownorganic.com.au packed days Plan your next adventure with the versatile Toyota Prius v, which suits any itinerary. Using Hybrid Synergy Drive technology ensures…