Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2019 i delicious

IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE a new year is upon us (let alone that it is 2019!). February is that unique mix of relaxed yet important – it’s a time for setting fresh agendas, making plans, trying new things but also needing to feel refreshed. After a season of excess, we feel ready to put things right. Fortunately, there is much momentum in the world of food and travel right now to provide that inspiration, and we’ve distilled these ideas into an issue to help you enjoy the year ahead. This month there are a lot of interesting discussions on the table, and sustainability is at the forefront. During a trip to Bryon Bay with the team at Harvest Newrybar, we had the pleasure of foraging with the inspiring Peter Hardwick.…

EASTERN INFLUENCE Roasted pork belly & dumpling noodle soup, p 18 St Hugo Eden Valley Chardonnay 2017 Miso-glazed salmon, p 97 St Hugo Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2016 Matcha ‘ice cream’ and black sesame crunch, p 114 St Hugo Eden Valley Medium Sweet Riesling 2017 “This fresh, cool-climate chardonnay has a vibrant palate that offers a lovely balance of lemon zest, white nectarine and nougat, and will pair well with the pork dish. The GSM is plush and complex with ripe fruit flavours, silky tannins and subtle oak. It will complement the saltiness of miso salmon quite nicely. The lush honeycomb richness in the sweet riesling balances perfectly with the velvety texture of the ice cream and sesame crunch.” Daniel Swincer, Chief Winemaker, St Hugo SAVOURING SUMMER Tuna tartare, betel…

CHINESE NEW YEAR RAW FISH SALAD SERVES 4 Traditionally, each guest tosses the salad using chopsticks while saying auspicious wishes for good prosperity in the coming year. Sunflower oil, to shallow-fry 12 wonton wrappers (from selected supermarkets and Asian food shops) 500g skinless sashimi-grade hiramasa kingfish, pin-boned, chopped into 1cm pieces 100g each carrot and daikon, peeled, shredded 100g taro (from good grocers and Asian food shops), peeled, shredded 100g Lebanese cucumber, shredded 50g pickled ginger 1 pomelo, peeled, segmented 1 lime, peeled, thinly sliced 1 dragonfruit, peeled, chopped 1 Granny Smith apple, shredded 1/3 cup (50g) salted peanuts, chopped 3 long green shallots, shredded Toasted white sesame seeds, coriander sprigs, Chinese five spice powder and freshly ground white pepper, to serve PLUM SAUCE 200ml plum sauce 50ml light soy…

WITH SUPERMODELS CLAIMING nothing tastes as good as skinny feels (thank you Kate Moss, I’ll take your word for it), you’d think food and fashion were mutually exclusive, but it’s time to think again. Perhaps it’s the new-collection hype around snagging a table (Noma) or even a dumpling (Tim Ho Wan) at a zeitgeist eatery that reminds fashion’s tastemakers of home, or it could be conspicuous consumption, powered by social media, where a dining choice is as much an identity statement as your outfit. Either way, food is the new frontier of cool and you’ll find fashion houses emblazoning their designs with the full edible spectrum – Prada’s AW18 banana print was this year’s most coveted, while Dolce & Gabbana teamed with Smeg on a kitchen appliance range that saw…

IMAGINE A SALAD of crisp, juicy and mildly salty leaves. This is now possible using a whole new class of vegetable: the succulent. These flavoursome leaves and stems have been increasingly featured on the menus of some of the world’s top restaurants. Now they are heading to the home kitchen, thanks to switched-on farmers. Many succulents originate from the Australian coastline, which is reflected in their adaptation to the salty environment. These coastal succulents include the spinach-like warrigal greens; the juicy, brine-filled stems of samphire; seablite with its salty bean nuances; and, one of the best-flavoured, sea purslane with its hint of capsicum. Exotic non-native succulents are also being cultivated in Australia. Some favourites are the striking ice plant with its extraordinary glistening surface, the fishy-flavoured and purple-hued Okinawa spinach,…

AUSTRALIANS ARE A water-loving bunch, and that’s certainly true of North Bondi Fish head chef Jesse McTavish. The Byron native and son of legendary surfboard shaper Bob McTavish enjoyed a quintessential Aussie childhood surfing and fishing his way around the breaks of the Northern Rivers, which spawned an enduring passion for the fruits of the sea. “We used to take an Esky and go find pipis on the beach,” McTavish says. “Catch some fish, make a little fire on the beach to eat it. That was a fairly common occurrence.” Nothing’s really changed for the man who now calls Australia’s most iconic beach home. McTavish’s love of seafood is evident in how he entertains. “Fresh king prawns scream summertime east coast Australia,” he says. While served by the bucketload is…

SMOKED PAPRIKA CHICKEN & CORN PASTA SALAD SERVES 4 “PASTA SALADS DON’T HAVE TO BE SAD, SOGGY NUMBERS SITTING LONELY AND IGNORED ON THE BARBECUE TABLE. THEY CAN BE FRESH, COLOURFUL, FULL OF FLAVOUR AND, DARE I SAY IT, EVEN THE STAR OF THE MEAL. SO COME ON! LET’S MAKE THEM SING THIS SUMMER.” 4 skinless chicken thigh fillets 100ml extra virgin olive oil 1 tbs maple syrup 2 tsp smoked paprika 4 corn cobs, silks removed 375g rotelle pasta 1 bunch oregano, leaves picked 1/2 small garlic clove, crushed 1/2 tsp dried chilli flakes, plus extra to serve (optional) Juice of1/2 lemon 1 cup (300g) mayonnaise Watercress sprigs, to serve Combine chicken, 2 tbs oil, maple syrup and paprika in a bowl and set aside. Heat a chargrill pan…

“I’VE COOKED THE PASTA IN CHAMOMILE TEA TO REALLY HELP BRING THAT FLAVOUR THROUGH; FOR THE PASTA TO ABSORB IT.” “IT’S BEEN THE most popular menu to date.” Smith & Daughters’ chef Shannon Martinez, who with business partner Mo Wyse has brought spectacular vegan cooking to the Melbourne masses, is talking about the Fitzroy restaurant’s move to an Italian menu. “The whole theory behind it came to me one night,” says Martinez. “I was sitting on the couch with a giant bowl of pasta just thinking, ‘This is so good, everyone must feel the same as me!’ No one hates pasta. No one hates Italian food. No one says ‘pizza’s disgusting’. It’s the Switzerland of food. Everyone loves it. “And so much Italian food is intrinsically vegan anyway. It’s such…

BERRIES, BANANA & MACADAMIA SORBET MAKES 8 CUPS 400g frozen mixed berries 1.5kg peeled bananas, chopped, frozen Roasted chopped macadamias and bee pollen (optional – from health food shops), to serve In 2 batches, place berries and banana in a blender and whiz until smooth. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a 1.5cm star piping nozzle and freeze for 2 hours or until firm. Pipe into serving bowls, then scatter with macadamias and bee pollen, if using, to serve. “HAVING KIDS, YOU never know when you’re going to need ice cream,” says Darren Robertson. “It’s one of [Darren and wife Magdalena’s son] Archie’s top three requests.” It was the three-year-old’s love of joining mum and dad in the kitchen that led to our first recipe. “We developed the cookie…

dressed to impress Tangy and with a hint of yuzu, Obento Ponzu Sauce is the perfect balance of citrus and soy flavours. Destined to become a pantry staple, it’s the perfect dressing for salads, seafood and noodles, or as a dipping sauce for gyozas. Visit: oriental.com.au to the max With its patented low-speed cold-press extraction, the Kuvings Whole Slow Juicer makes juice with maximum flavour and nutrition. Easy to use and clean, this juicer includes a smoothie and sorbet accessory for the ultimate versatility. Visit: kuvings.com.au easy does it Using quality cage-free eggs and fresh cream, the Ruffie Rustic Foods sweet potato, feta, spring onion & caraway seeds frittata makes dinnertime a breeze, and the great flavour will guarantee requests for seconds. Visit: ruffierusticfoods.com.au summer breeze Turn up the heat…

NOVEMBER’S MOST-LIKED POST 2888 likes, 82 comments When @cfassnidge called this the Gucci of all sandwiches, we knew it was going to be a big deal. Filled with chicken liver parfait, caramelised onion, prosciutto and a touch of sage, we can safely say there’s no other sandwich that comes close to being as luxe as this one. Find the recipe in our November issue. Photo: @nigelloughphoto Styling: @kirstenljenkins LISBON DREAMING: Page 132, boom, there it is, Lisbon (Global Flavours, October 2018). I have had a love affair with Portugal for a few years now, and as I see it promoted more often I cringe, wanting it to remain a secret. I want to say, “Stop, don’t go there”, but I’m just being selfish. There is much to this beautiful country.…

JOIN DELICIOUS. AND Jonathan Barthelmess to celebrate the Queensland-born chef’s first restaurant in the Sunshine State – GRECA in Brisbane’s revitalised Howard Smith Wharves – with a Greek feast showcasing the very best of the venue’s menu. With GRECA, Barthelmess brings the generosity and relaxed good times of his Cho Cho San and The Apollo Sydney and Tokyo venues to the heritage precinct. In a space designed to embrace Brisbane’s climate, tables will spill out into the open air and the restaurant’s open kitchen and fire pit will balance the atmosphere of a raucous family kitchen with the casual yet educated service Barthelmess is known for. Inspired by the pleasures of eating together, GRECA’s menu will celebrate the simplicity of traditional Greek flavours, in dishes designed…

• PORK is very lean and a good source of iron, selenium and zinc. When buying, your butcher can trim off any excess external fat, but a small amount of marbling within makes for the most flavourful, tender meat. • STRAWBERRIES are available year round, but are most abundant and at their best in summer. While size and shape have no effect on sweetness, colour does – a perfectly ripe strawberry should be red all over. Store strawberries completely dry at room temperature. • DRAGON FRUIT , also know as pitaya, is the fruit of a cactus and is available in white, yellow and red varieties. The flesh is filled with small black seeds and has a texture similar to kiwi fruit. It’s grown in tropical regions worldwide; the Australian season starts in…

CARUSSIN BARBERA (3L), $70 This is peak cask wine, absolutely at the apex of the cool-good gear matrix. It’s a crunchy, bright, vivacious red produced from biodynamic grapes that makes for wildly excellent drinking. GONZO VINO ROSÉ 2018 (500ML), $21 Packed in a convenient little sachet-style ’cask’, this is a handy drink for portability and a quick share. With suggestions of rose water and pomegranate juice, it’s a thirst-quenching, dry rosé style. YALUMBA WINESMITHS RIESLING 2017 (2L), $15 Yalumba’s range of cask wines is the best of the ’commercial’ offerings, with ’bottle-quality’ wines the motif. This is a refreshing, zesty, citrusy white of crispness and summery feel. DE BORTOLI PREMIUM SHIRAZ CABERNET (4L), $18 De Bortoli is cask…

GOOD HEALTH IS one of life’s greatest blessings, and eating healthily is one key to achieving it. Salmon plays a large part in my summer diet as it is packed with nutritious elements, especially omega-3 fatty acids, and can reduce the risks of cardiovascular disease. It’s one of my main sources of protein. The flavour and texture of salmon will depend on how it is cooked. Less is more! Yes, minimal seasoning for maximum flavour. As for this recipe, quick and simple, it is perfect to keep in your back pocket. Being summer, that means it’s mango season. I love mango in salads as it gives a very fresh and fruity taste. Mangos are a good source of antioxidants and are rich in vitamins A and C. Any vegetable will…

IN NOVEMBER LAST year, NASA’s InSight lander touched down on Mars. Its mission: to drill into the planet’s surface to progress geological science. But could there be more to it than this? Could it be NASA is searching for any truth to the rumour that, when Mars, in July 2018, passed closer to earth than it had done at any point in the previous decade, keen astronomers noticed that the Red Planet bore a remarkable similarity to a very large ball of red miso paste? And could this be why Japan launched a failed Mars mission in 1998? So many questions, but only one that really matters: if InSight confirms that Mars is made of miso, what will we do with all that miso paste? I have some thoughts: BROTHS…

STYLE “I always lean towards entertaining outdoors,” McTavish says. “I like it to be a blur between lunch and dinner – a ‘linner’ or a ‘dunch’! The kind of late lunch where everybody is still hanging around to watch a nice big moon rise over the water.” MENU “Fish, and seafood in general, is so conducive to summer,” McTavish says. “That was our upbringing in Byron; it was much more geared around fresh fish and seafood than a Sunday roast.” PLAYLIST “Music is really just there for background noise,” McTavish admits. “I like it pretty quiet and I lean towards someone fun like The Shins. Pretty cruisy, with no thinking involved.” DRINKS McTavish’s drinks choice is as Australian as his love of prawns: a cold beer. “In summer I tend…

BASE MUFFIN RECIPE MAKES 6 LARGE MUFFINS This is the base for recipes that follow. Follow the preparation instructions in these recipes, then add to base muffin mixture and cook according to instructions. “These muffins let you start your new year with a war on waste – and the vegie drawer!” 185g unsalted butter, chopped, softened 3 extra-large eggs 11/4 cups (310ml) buttermilk, at room temperature 2 cups (300g) self-raising flour, sifted Place butter in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat until pale. Add eggs and beat until combined. Fold through buttermilk, flour and 1 tsp salt flakes until combined. CHORIZO & SMOKED MOZZARELLA MUFFINS MAKES 6 1 x 150g chorizo, casing removed, finely chopped 2 tbs chopped dill 1 tsp caraway seeds, toasted 120g smoked…

IF YOU’RE EAGER to add intrigue to a dish, just try a marinade, says long-time devotee Matt Moran. “Marinades are so versatile,” he explains. “A marinade tenderises, it adds flavour and seasoning, and then on top it creates a beautiful texture, which can change the whole dish completely.” In short, exactly the kind of multi-talented superstar you need in your life (or your fridge anyway). Not that you have to keep them on hand; just whip them up when required, suggests Moran. “I tend to make them up as I go,” he admits. “Fresh is always best, particularly when you are working with fresh ingredients.” There’s more method to his madness. “Marinades should be seasonal,” he continues. “Your choice of marinade should depend on the time of year. Rich is…

While medicinal marijuana has been legal in California since 1996, a recent landmark ruling that gave the green light (quite literally) to recreational use of the drug has created a Green Rush in the fertile west coast regions more famous for their wine than weed. Today, there are an estimated 3000 small-scale pot growers in Sonoma County alone, and rather than threatening the deep-rooted viticulture industry, this shift has led to innovations in vineyards, hotels and restaurants that are reshaping the offering in the valley. Here is a town-by-town guide. HEALDSBURG An epicurean ground zero nestled between three prime wine-growing regions – Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley – Healdsburg combines small-town charm with big-city smarts. Healdsburg SHED , a steel-and-glass warehouse designed to take food back…

When the Oatley family approached Lennox Hastie, named best chef in this year’s delicious. 100 , to transport his Sydney restaurant, Firedoor, to Hamilton Island for one night only, to launch the 35th annual Race Week, the chef was speechless. “I mean, I didn’t know how we would do this,” he exclaims, scratching his head. Hastie is renowned for cooking everything over fire, and replicating this on qualia’s Pebble Beach, under a night sky, seemed impossible. For starters, his kitchen in Sydney doesn’t use gas or electricity – just two woodfired ovens, three grills and a wood-burning hearth. Undaunted, Hastie’s grills were shipped from Sydney, two ovens bought (which qualia will use ongoing) and a fire-pit built on the beach. Hastie also uses special woods (ironbark, cherrywood and orangewood, if…

IDYLLIC ENDINGS I’m a sucker for something sweet, whisky – it could be a whisky sour, a whisky on the rocks or a whisky umeshu (a Japanese liqueur) – and a row of dark salted chocolate. GO-TO DESSERT I love a roasted pineapple with coconut yoghurt, agave nectar and a few mint leaves. It’s sweet, creamy, warm and, with a fresh hit of nature, it’s perfect. WILD THING To serve food, sometimes I use a bit of wood I’ve found, or enamel plates. I’m not that fancy. I am a fan of eating with one’s hands, but if needed, I tend to mix and match cutlery due to my style. BREAKING POINT If I’m entertaining indoors, I prefer to use stemless glassware – that way I seem to have less…

I am a long-time reader of delicious. and have been fortunate to have a subscription for the last few years. It now features permanently on the top of my birthday wish list. I have regularly made salads and mains, but for some reason always shied away from scratch baking, especially breads. The simplicity of Hetty McKinnon’s gozleme recipe (Extract, September 18, p 110) gave me just the encouragement I needed to try my hand at a dough. It was deliciously easy. Buoyant with a new-found confidence, when reading the November issue, I was immediately attracted to Silvia Colloca’s pizza recipe (p 90). A well-written recipe that steered me all the way to pizza heaven. Where to from here? I think I owe it to myself to start by reading past…

DELICIOUS. READER EVENT BOOK LAUNCH @ THREE BLUE DUCKS ROSEBERY“ANDY ALLEN’S FOOD IS EXACTLY WHAT I WANT TO EAT AND COOK AT HOME.” – MATT PRESTON DELICIOUS. @ MEAT BOOK LAUNCH, VICTOR CHURCHILL BUTCHER“I want to thank everyone out there for the overwhelming support and positive feedback after the release of Meat.” – ANTHONY PUHARICH DELICIOUS. TRAVEL LAUNCH @ ICEBERGS, SYDNEY“Bondi couldn’t have turned on a better day to launch the new delicious. Travel business. The Icebergs crew were in their element, and it was exciting to see all our clients and contributors, and to welcome George Calombaris to the team.” – KERRIE McCALLUM DELICIOUS. READER EVENT @ BANNISTERS PORT STEPHENS“SEAFOOD IS BEST DONE SIMPLE, AND THIS IS THE BEST SEAFOOD IN PORT STEPHENS.” – RICK STEIN DELICIOUS. ON SOCIAL…

STRAWBERRIES WITH HONG KONG DOUBLE-MILK-SKIN PUDDING SERVES 4 Begin this recipe 6 hours ahead. 5kg frozen strawberries 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar Juice of 3 lemons 2 tsp vanilla extract 3 titanium-strength gelatine leaves 50g liquid glucose Hulled, halved fresh strawberries, basil seeds (optional) and mint leaves, to serve DOUBLE-MILK-SKIN PUDDING 4 cups (1L) milk 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar 4 eggwhites Divide frozen strawberries, sugar and lemon juice between 2 large bowls and toss to combine. Cover and stand for 3 hours or until thawed. Line a fine sieve with muslin or a clean Chux cloth and set over a large bowl. Strain strawberry mixture, reserving liquid (you should have about 5 cups [1.25L] liquid). Stir through vanilla. Soak gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes to soften. Place…

I AM A FERMENT FIEND. I adore how brining watermelon rind turns waste into vibrant probiotic pickles. Brining is quick; 2-3 weeks later fermentation has worked its magic – the results sour, spicy and super crunchy. Eat as is, serve beside Thai curry or shiitake omelette, or toss through duck breast salad. Peel green part off watermelon rind, then chop white part into 3cm pieces. Pack a clean 3-cup (750ml) jar with a non-corrosive airtight lid with rind, 2 shredded kaffir lime leaves, 1 bruised lemongrass stalk and 1-3 halved small red chillies. For the brine, combine 10g sea salt, 25ml good-quality fish sauce and 100ml boiling water in a heatproof jug, stirring to dissolve salt. Stir through 400ml cold filtered water. Pour brine over rind mixture, filling to 2cm…

ALEX ATALA DISCOVERS new tastes wherever he goes. Simply, people want to feed him; out of respect, but also eagerness for a glimmer of approval. In Tasmania, for the Great Chefs Series, it’s no different; food and flavour follow Atala. There’s an official reception with the Governor and gathered luminaries, where Atala’s achievements are feted: two Michelin stars with his São Paulo restaurant, D.O.M., a fixture in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and his pioneering work with the ATÁ Institute. Josef Chromy Wines head chef Nick Raitt is at the sharp end to showcase northern Tasmania’s best produce. Then there’s a casual Saturday-night dinner down south at Franklin, where Analiese Gregory’s menu reads like a map of this island state. Next, fresh sea urchin that our skipper-come-diver Kate Wilson,…

Close your eyes and imagine Africa Do you see vast golden plains, where elephants wander, lions languish and zebra herds lazily graze in the twilight? Is it the spectacular natural wonder of Cape Town’s Table Mountain or the thunderous roar of Victoria Falls that come to mind? Perhaps the wide-open expanse of the Serengeti or the vista from the highest peaks in Kenya spark your imagination. If Africa is on your bucket list, not just one, but all of these incredible experiences await on Scenic’s Grand African Safari, which offers groups of up to 30 guests the land journey of a lifetime on a luxury escorted tour. Travel specialist Scenic’s handcrafted itinerary sets the benchmark in five-star luxury coupled with immersive local experiences. On the 23-day Grand African Safari, from…

TRADITIONAL PARTY PASTIES WITH QUICK ZUCCHINI PICKLE MAKES 21/2 CUPS You can keep the pickle for up to 2 months, refrigerated. 350g zucchini, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, halved, thinly sliced 1 cup (250ml) apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds 1/2 tsp fennel seeds 1 tbs thyme leaves, plus extra to serve 12 Patties Party Pasties Traditional, cooked according to packet instructions Place zucchini and 1 tbs sea salt in a non-reactive bowl and gently toss to coat. Set aside for 10 minutes to soften. Meanwhile, place oil and onion in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes or until onion is soft and colourless. Add vinegar, sugar, mustard and fennel…

“MEXICAN DOESN’T WORK WITHOUT A BIT OF FUN. THAT’S WHY WE SUIT BYRON SHIRE; YOU FEEL LIKE YOU’RE ON HOLIDAY ALL THE TIME” AT FIRST GLANCE , the sleepy NSW surf town of Suffolk Park may seem a world away from high-intensity Mexico, but the two destinations have more in common than you think. Or so says chef Evan White, a former resident of the Latin American nation so enamoured with its flavours that he opened his new venue, Chupacabra, in its honour. It was during a recent sojourn to the Yucatan that inspiration struck. “It’s very similar in climate and attitude to Byron,” says White. “It’s coastal, full of amazing produce, and the community just wants to have a good time.” The idea blossomed into an authentic taqueria, opened…

Beltane Ranch is a heritage bed and breakfast that goes back five generations. The gracious Southern-style house with wrap-around verandahs and white swing chairs was built in 1892 by a New Orleans entrepreneur who was the daughter of slaves. She intended the house to be an agricultural getaway, but it gained notoriety as a place for ‘gentleman’s entertainment’. Today, the property is far less scandalous, growing grapes, olives and heirloom row crops that are served on its menu, and hosting seasonal feasts, such as long-table lunches and hog barbecues in the dreamy garden. American-born Sydney chef Danielle Alvarez recommends tiny restaurant El Molino for some of the best regional Mexican food outside of Mexico. You’ll find it in Boyes Hot Springs, just out of Sonoma town centre.…

THAILAND’S KRABI PROVINCE is notable for a landscape that rivals a Jurassic Park set. Mountainous limestone outcrops – pocketed with deep, foreboding caves – loom over long, white beaches and lush jungle dotted with palm trees populated by monkeys. The region hugs the country’s southwest coastline and many of the most famous spots are only accessible by boat. Star attractions include the Phi Phi Islands and Koh Phi Phi, where the movie version of Alex Garland’s cult book The Beach was shot (although Garland’s story was based further north at Koh Phangan), along with Railay Beach on the Phra Nang Peninsula. The peninsula is connected to the mainland by jungle, so is only reachable via boat, and is sought out for its mostly serene beaches, lack of roads and the…

I LANDED IN Spain sad but happy. I’d just enjoyed four amazing weeks on holiday in Greece with my family and was definitely upset to say goodbye. But at the same time, I was so freaking excited about three things 1. Believe it or not, I was making my first visit to Spain. 2. I was travelling with two top chefs from Greece, Christoforos Peskias and Polychronis Damalas. (Christoforos is the incredible head chef at Balthazar, one of Athens’ best restaurants, while Polychronis is the executive chef at the fabulous Cavo Tagoo on Mykonos and Santorini, and at Izakaya in Athens.) 3. Meeting up with Matt [Preston] and Gary [Mehigan] again as part of our global tour of food hot spots. Here’s where we stayed and ate in the phenomenal…