Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2023 i Delicious UK

speedy supper. Trapanese pesto pasta with salmon Serves 4 Hands-on time 25 min Season 4 salmon fillets with salt and pepper, then roast in a 180°C fan/gas 6 oven for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a pan of salted water to the boil and cook 400g spaghetti according to the pack instructions until al dente. For the pesto, toast 40g blanched almonds in a dry pan, then whizz with 100g cherry tomatoes, ½ garlic clove, 2 anchovy fillets, 40g pecorino, 3 tbsp olive oil, ¼ bunch mint and ¼ bunch basil to give a coarse paste. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice, then toss the pesto with the drained pasta. Divide among bowls, then top with the salmon and a few extra mint and basil leaves. Per serving…

Lunches under open skies and al fresco dinners stretching into the dusk are summer joys – and all the better when someone else is washing up. Book a seat at one of these special feasts or venues for back-to-nature magic… Wild Feasts at Oxmoor Farm, Buckinghamshire (below) Book Saturday night banquets and Sunday lunches showcasing small farms’ produce (£75) with guest chefs Olivia Cavalli (22-23 July) and Sophie Gordon (26-27 Aug). There are regular pizza nights, too, until 19 Aug; £1 from each will be donated to The Farming Community Network. oxmoorfarm.co.uk In Good Company supper club, London & surrounds Middle Eastern menus to Italian feasts in spectacular green locations, including Chelsea Physic Garden, RHS Garden Wisley and Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew. From £60, dates until Sep, companyofcooks.com/in-good-company Barnaby's,…

This month's star email wins a Magimix Le Micro Mini Chopper, worth £60 Small, powerful and easy to use, the mini chopper purées, grinds, blends, liquidises and, of course, chops. With an 800ml capacity, it's compact and easy to stash away – ideal for smaller kitchens. The durable stainless steel blade makes light work of vegetables, nuts, herbs and spices, while the pulse function allows for control over texture and consistency. magimix.co.uk FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN A MAGIMIX MINI CHOPPER… Let us know your thoughts on this month's issue by emailing us at info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk*…

This is jam hot… Caramelised fruitiness, a moreish edge of salt and the hum of bird's eye chillies… Easton Chilli's Salted Pineapple Chilli Jam adds juicy heat to pretty much anything – try with tempura, barbecued meat or grilled halloumi. It's sensational subbed for regular chilli jam in our recipe for watermelon and feta salad with hot and sour dressing, too (find it at deliciousmagazine.co.uk). Bristolbased maker Rikki also sells classic, black garlic and scotch-bonnet-meets-Korean-gochujang-and-gochugaru recipes – all packaged with a stringtied label so jars can be reused. £5.50 for 200ml (£1 to changing charities), eastonchilli.com POSH UP YOUR CURRY Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Gymkhana has released a range of sauces to take your cheat's curry night up a few notches. The ingredients in the Mayfair establishment's jars are natural and…

Recipe I can't wait to make: Saroja, a dish of breaded baby aubergines and cheese (above). I didn't know that… Damascus is one of the world's oldest cities, thought to have been inhabited as long ago as 10,000 BC. BOOK OF THE MONTH IMAD'S SYRIAN KITCHEN If this brave, inspiring debut told only the story of how Syrian chef Imad Alarnab fled Damascus, his restaurants destroyed in the war, to travel through Europe to London by any means possible, I would unreservedly recommend it. That it also comes with over 80 recipes that bring Syrian flavours to your kitchen makes it all but essential. The book is named for Alarnab's London restaurant and includes the building blocks of Syrian cooking (making spice blends such as baharat), plus wonderful dishes such…

sweet treats. There's a lot of bad homemade ice cream out there. Rock hard, studded with ice crystals, devoid of flavour – we've all tasted some, be it churned by our own hand or someone else's. Truth is, there's a lot of misunderstanding around how ice cream is made and it can be quite scientific. Get the wrong ratio of dairy to sugar or put too much salt or alcohol in the mix and it won't freeze properly. Try to bypass the all-important churning and you're left with a brick of frozen cream. Serve it straight from the freezer and you'll be bending spoons just to serve scoops that taste of nothing much at all. When you get it right, however, it's one of the most impressive and enjoyable desserts…

JOE WOODHOUSE AND OLIA HERCULES 40 Maltby Street, London SE1 “Whenever we have something to celebrate – or not. It's the happiest of places for us. It feels like a special occasion going there as everything is sublime – from the food to the wine to the staff.” RAVINDER BHOGAL AND NADEEM LALANI Maison Francois, London SW1 “There are some places where the service is so dreamy, you forget you're a restaurateur; that this is what you do for a living. We love going to Maison Francois, where there's a whole trolley of puddings… You can see why it's one of our favourites. It feels glamorous, yet for everybody.” DR SANDRA WHEATLEY Restaurant Can Pere, Anyos, Andorra “For the lifelong friendships forged as accompaniments to the food (with the after-hours…

I've always loved tomatoes. If there's a punnet of cherry tomatoes in the kitchen, I'll snack on them like popcorn while I'm cooking. I try to grow my own most years, too, even on my tiny north-facing balcony in a block of urban flats – although that does admittedly result in more green, clinging-on-for-dear-life tomatoes than gorgeously ripe red ones. As soon as British tomatoes are in season, I buy big cratefuls. These days, you can get them easily year-round, but those shipped from overseas are picked before they're fully ripe to extend their shelf life. Although they do ripen during transit, they can't develop in flavour as they would naturally, resulting in watery, tasteless tomatoes that do a disservice to the real deal. Those grown in the UK, left…

Agroforestry combines trees and shrubs with crop and livestock farming systems. This might be as simple as planting hedgerows or as complex as silvoarable cropping, where cropping trees (apples, for example) are grown alongside annual harvests in order to protect the soil and support biodiversity while growing an extra product. Mob grazing is also sometimes called ‘tall grass grazing’. It involves a planned grazing system that moves animals every 1-3 days, allowing for much longer rest periods for the pasture. This improves soil health and water holding capacity, while resulting in healthier livestock and lower costs for farmers. No-till farming (and no-dig gardening) preserves the soil by disturbing it as little as possible – never ploughing to remove weeds or tilling it before seeding, as had become the norm in…

“Bursting with flavour, these simple meals with affordable lentils and grains are family favourites in my home. They pay homage to India's proud heritage of quick, easy and wholesome home cooking, where storecupboard ingredients combine with the simplest of spicing. I always have freshly frozen curry leaves and coriander in my freezer, which make cooking easier on busy days when a food shop is out of the question. Feel free to adjust the level of chilli heat in these dishes to your preference – and if you forgo the ghee, the recipes are vegan, too.” “With a texture somewhere between omelettes and parathas, these crepes from Gujarat are so moreish you'll need to work hard not to eat them as soon as they come out of the pan. I often…

Despite brewing with fruit being as old as beer itself, many drinkers regard fruit in beer as they do pineapple on pizza – just plain wrong. But things are changing – look at menus, fridges in your local beer shop or the shelves in the supermarket and there are so many beers being brewed with fruit. It's a big trend in beer today, and I reckon it's a good thing (but then I love pineapple on pizza). There's a long history of fruit being added to beer, either fresh or dried, and often to add a different flavour. The Belgians have become the most famous fruit beer brewers, with wooden barrels of intentionally soured beer having cherries or raspberries added to temper the sharpness with a little sweetness. That kind…

FRUIT OF THE MONTH: Blueberries Now's the time to add sweet, juicy blueberries to your shopping basket – they're bang in season. Plus, new research by King's College London suggests eating them can improve blood flow and brain function, as well as lowering blood pressure. LISTEN UP! Nutrition podcasts have surged in popularity, and the very best are entertaining and accessible, featuring interviews with renowned scientists, doctors and nutritionists. Here are three I love at the moment: Zoe Science & Nutrition The most popular nutrition podcast in the UK, thanks to interviews with top researchers and doctors who explain the latest discoveries and debunk myths. The Doctor's Kitchen Dr Rupy Aujla talks to expert guests about how diet and lifestyle can improve health, covering topics from anxiety to polycistic ovary…

I'm not comfortable playing the status card, but when I eat in a restaurant I like to feel there's a degree of hierarchy. I'm not insisting on deep ingratiating bows or being addressed in the third person (“Would sir like to see the wine list perchance?”) and I'm not making movie-star demands (“Face the wall, George Egg is in the house!”). I'm not that sort of a diva. Not yet. I just don't want to be called “buddy” by someone half my age. It's a tricky tightrope to walk, I grant you, and I imagine there are diners who like the familiarity – but I'm not one of them. “Sir” feels inappropriate too, unless it's said by someone who always has one hand behind his back, so how about we…

As I turn the pages of this issue it's 30°C outside, and the monotony of those rainy days at the beginning of the year is a fading memory. July is about celebrating the warmer days we all look forward to – a time that speaks of fresh air, sun, sea, holidays either happening or coming, and spending time with friends shooting the breeze on warm evenings outside rather than watching box sets under a blanket. Soft fruit and tomatoes are in abundance, drinks are veering towards chilled, portable and pink (p100), cocktails are getting a kick (p97) and ice cream is the order of the day. Talking of ice cream, I've never been one for flavours like raspberry ripple, Neapolitan, salted caramel and so on, largely because they often taste…

Follow us on social @deliciousmag “My hope is our garden will become my pantry” Food adventure? We took a leap of faith and moved to rural New York from urban Massachusetts in 2020, and now grow close to 75 per cent of our produce. Treasured food memory? It took me years to perfect yorkshire puddings. As a Yorkshire lass, the first time they worked I was ecstatic! Favourite family recipe? Lasagne with homemade pasta – a new skill since moving, made using our own eggs. Kitchen stalwarts? My Le Creusetpans, pressure canner and vacuum sealer. Your signature recipe? Duck breast in pomegranate and pinot noir sauce. Wish list? My hope is that our garden will become my pantry, so I can say “Hey, let's make ratatouille” and go and pick…

BAKING WITH HERITAGE Bertinet Bakery's sliced sourdough was a game-changer, bringing ‘proper’ bread into supermarkets. Now they've tweaked the recipe to introduce a mixture of heritage flours, including spelt, to give the bread a more complex flavour. Use your loaf and buy one. From £2 for 500g, major supermarkets and selected independents FINE FILO If you're anything like the delicious, team you'll happily eat a pie at any time of year, but they do tend to be more suited to the cooler months. Pieminister's new filo-wrapped pies are perfect summer fodder – lighter, fresher, delicately spiced and surprisingly good served cold. £4.70 for a 230g pie, Waitrose LE DUNK Until they launched in the UK last year, the creations of French biscuit brand LU were a treat known only to…

My Food Fight dessert, a winning dish on Great British Menu, was inspired by the comics Beano and The Dandy… not by real life! If I'd done that when I was a kid, my dad would have given me a clip round the ear. I grew up in Dundee, where the comics were created, and there's a statue of Desperate Dan in the city centre. There are pictures of me and my brothers and sisters climbing on top of him. I went into hospitality so I didn't have to go to university. In Scotland university is free, and the idea in our family was that you got your degree, left Dundee and did something with your life. But I was the less bookish one and more on the creative side.…

food for thought. After 20 years of marriage and 10 years running restaurant group Honey & Co with his partner Sarit Packer, Itamar Srulovich is sure of one thing: “There aren't many people in your life whose food you could taste and know that they made it – but I would always be able to tell Sarit's food.” Itamar can see his wife's signature in any salad, soup or pastry. “I'd know it from the way it looks, the personality, the sheer Sarit-ness of it,” he continues, his eyes shining. “She is a huge talent, so to have her cooking at home, just for us, is pure joy.” Before meeting Sarit – in a restaurant kitchen in Tel Aviv – Itamar didn't cook at home. Or if he did, it…

Cream or crème fraîche Often bought for a specific recipe, it's easy to leave half-empty pots of dairy goodness at the back of the fridge, soon to go mouldy. Emily Gussin is determined to change that DO A GOOD CHURN If you have a larger amount of leftover double cream, you can make your own butter. Use a stand mixer or food processor to beat/whizz the cream until it separates into buttermilk and fat (aka butter). Wrap the butter in a muslin cloth/bag, then squeeze out any excess buttermilk. To check it's all gone, submerge the muslin-wrapped butter in a bowl of cold water and continue squeezing – repeat until the water doesn't turn cloudy (butter lasts longer without the buttermilk). Season the butter with salt, then shape into a…

voices in food. This may be a slightly weird confession to make, but I can say this here because I suspect you might be a little weird too, and that you might understand. I get as excited at the sight of a well stocked, beautifully arranged summer produce stall, greengrocer's shop or supermarket aisle as one of the more grabby Kardashians might get at the sight of the latest limited-edition Birkin bag. The colours! The choices! And often these days, the cost! In my quest for the best, I don't want to lose my head to the less-than-perfect. Of course you should let your nose be your guide. If your fruit and vegetables smell of nothing, they will taste of nothing. Years ago, there used to be a posh home…

Cocktails of the month Sun? Shining. Aviators? On. Lilo? Inflated. Glass? At the ready! This summer it's all about cocktails infused with chilli, be they green or red, pickled or smoked. Embrace the Club Tropicana vibes of our colourful creations, updated with a fiery twist, and be the envy of everyone around the swimming pool (or, you know, in your back garden). Chipotle old fashioned Serves 1 Hands-on time 10 min The sweet smokiness of bourbon makes it an obvious pairing for chipotle – the smoke-dried Mexican chilli adds a pleasing kick to each sip in this dangerously drinkable twist on a classic. DON'T WASTE IT The leftover sugar syrup will keep indefinitely if you store it in a sterilised bottle. Search deliciousmagazine.co.uk for how to sterilise bottles and lids.…

No-waste dressing Ready in 30 min Inspired by the Greek dishes prawn saganaki (prawns baked in zingy tomato sauce) and fasolakia (slow-cooked green bean stew), this dish is ripe for a summer evening A taste of holiday Friday night dinner Chicken with courgette ribbons, sun-dried tomatoes, feta and dill Serves 2 Hands-on time 30 min ECO TIP The dressing in this dish is put together using oft-wasted by-products from jarred ingredients – the oil from the sun-dried tomatoes and the sharp and salty caper brine. EASY SWAPS You can use skinless chicken breasts for this dish instead – just add some oil to the pan before frying them. • 2 free-range chicken breasts, skin on • 1 large courgette • 2 tsp capers, roughly chopped, plus 1 tsp caper brine…

health matters. How well do you sleep? Do you regularly struggle to nod off, or wake up and toss and turn, unable to drift back? If so, you're part of a large sleep-deprived club. The NHS estimates that one in three of us in the UK sleeps poorly, which means millions of people go about their daily lives bleary-eyed and not functioning at their best. In the long term, poor sleep can also negatively impact health. “Multiple studies have found that people who experience insufficient sleep increase their food consumption,” says nutritional therapist and author Lucy Burney*. “What makes matters worse is that the selection is often higher-calorie sugary foods, which may lead to weight gain and insulin resistance, thereby increasing the risk of diabetes.” Interestingly, while poor food choices…

GARDEN PARTY Tuna tartare with avocado, soy and ginger p56 Flatbreads with chilli and fennel sausage, burrata and herbs p112 Salted pistachio and lime ice cream p45 Head out to the garden, dish up on the balcony or just enjoy the sun through your window with a summertime supper. A light starter makes way for smoky charred flatbreads followed by multiple scoops of homemade ice cream. THROWBACK FEAST Melon, smoked chicken and grape salad p80 Trapanese pesto pasta with salmon p3 Peach bellini and pink praline pavlova p87 Melon salad, pavlova, pesto pasta – all fantastic dishes with a touch of retro chic styling. Make the pavlova and salad in advance, then quickly rustle up the pasta for an effortless, indulgent and deeply satisfying three-courser. A menu to serve to…

STAR EMAIL Subject: Bringing food alive From: Maggie Brownlee Mark Diacono's interview with Ravinder Bhogal [Jun, p88] was startling for me. Kristin Perers’ photos of the golden coin curry and Ravinder with a huge bouquet of green veg and herbs were awesome. Although I love to cook, bake and eat out, for years I've had no sense of smell or taste. My food pleasures come only from the sight and texture of food, enhanced with my memories of how it tasted. I no longer mourn my loss, but I do indulge in the beautiful photography of dishes that, in Mark Diacono's words, “dance off the page.” Subject: How not to survive a holiday with friends From: Anon I did chuckle to myself when I read Debora's feature [Jun, p68]. We…

@hyggebliss Stracciatella in Florence @sarahannmartin1 In Cornwall I discovered pear and elderflower made by a local ice cream maker – yum. That comes joint first with coconut @kimgriggs1959 Zabaglione gelato and (a contentious one) liquorice – but not together! @liz2734 Vanilla @jennyjolley Strawberry with chunks of @bakedwelldevon Mint choc chip always! @boltanski_ Pistachio 4ever @mungotwyford Tutti frutti @chefblu19 Always cherry @samanthabrown1749 Rum and raisin ©joruncooksleep Totally with the pistachio vote! First discovered it in France, aged 11. It's held a glamorous appeal ever since JOIN THE CHAT Connect with other delicious, food lovers on social @deliciousmag or join our Facebook group at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/foodlovers CALLING ALL KEBAB LOVERS… Flame-licked skewers sizzling on the grill are a thing of beauty – but eschew the shop-bought cubes. How about fragrant chicken and prawn koftas,…

1. BLOWSY BLOOMS ECO PICK Friends coming round; eating outside; time to make the table beautiful. Which means flowers. Love Delivered is a farm committed to sustainability. They grow in greenhouses, irrigate with recycled rainwater and, in winter, warmth comes from solar panels and fossil-fuel-free heating. Packaging is 100% recyclable. It's a beautiful story, the bouquets are stunning – and the prices less than you might expect. Bouguets from £32, lovedelivered.co.uk 2. STRAW DECO After years in the shadows, rattan is – I'm reliably informed – back in fashion in the fickle world of interiors. And not just in furniture. How about a jug and/or glasses with rattan adornment (reminiscent of a chianti bottle?). Smart. Portmore jug, £25, and matching glasses, £20 for 4, gardentrading.co.uk 3. HIGHLY IRREGULAR Denby is…

This is my life by the sea, where hawthorn and gorse bloom and tamarisk trees meet the edges of the cliffs, where wild coastal flowers – fennel, teasels and ox daisies – drift down to the edge of the water. I'm excited to bring you to the seaside in beautiful Cornwall, to discover my coastal kitchen, which is at the heart of everything I do. I keep my larder and – by extension – my fridge in order, with dry goods, seeds, nuts and spices (saffron, always), eggs, butter, Cornish sea salt, parmesan, good olive oil, lemons, crème fraîche and clotted cream always in store, so I can make a cake, biscuits or a focaccia at any time. From my kitchen garden are herbs throughout the year, which lift any…

For millennia humans have tried many (as yet unproven) ways to increase the appetite for love… PARTRIDGE HEART Babylonian era tablets recommend men who need a boost in potency eat a partridge heart and drain its blood into a cup of water. OYSTERS have been associated with love and sex since ancient times. Casanova wrote feverishly in his diaries about his exploits with oysters and young women. CHOCOLATE has been thought ‘stimulating’ since it was brought back from Mexico in the 16th century by the Spanish. Legend had it the Aztec emperor Montezuma drank gallons of it to satisfy his wives and concubines. POTATOES According to 17th century herbalist William Salmon, potatoes “provoke lust”. Shakespeare's Falstaff also mentions the versatile tuber's aphrodisiac qualities. ASPARAGUS In his Complete Herbal of 1653,…

Best of the best. be a better cook. How many burgers do you think you've eaten in your life? If you're anything like me, probably more than you'd care to admit. There's something so appealing about a good burger (and when I say burger, I mean cheeseburger) – it's quick, hot, handheld and delivers instant satisfaction. Plus, it's relatively cheap to make or buy at a restaurant, and contains a mix of universally loved flavours, providing a balance of salt, sweet, tang, crunch and chew. So why are there so many bad burgers out there? The reason, I think, comes from two sources: ready-shaped patties and overcomplication. KEEP IT SIMPLE Do you find yourself reaching for the goat's cheese, adding balsamic-soaked onions to your patty or loading up your bun with…

Sustainable is the buzzword in every industry from clothing to restaurants to carmaking, and in 2021 the UK government launched a long-term plan to transform the country's food production system, calling it The Path to Sustainable Farming. It has many admirable objectives but there's a new groundswell of opinion that being sustainable isn't enough – the current farming system has been run into the ground and needs to be radically improved rather than maintained and sustained. Since World War II, farmers have relied on heavy machinery and chemicals to increase their yields. It worked, of course, but the soil paid the price – its nutrients were depleted, the shrubs and trees that protected it from erosion were cleared and the friendly microbes, fungi and minibeasts were driven out. In the…

Stories from the heart. voices in food. “My food embraces all taste possibilities, exploring the boundaries between culinary cultures, echoing my feelings of inbetweenness” GURDEEP LOYAL “My queerness and Indianness are both foundational facets of my identity – and food is my canvas for joyfully expressing their intersection at full volume on a plate. There's a queer sensibility to my cooking: I take an uninhibited approach to combining a spectrum of flavours, challenging traditional rules around what you can and can't put into a dish. My food embraces all possibilities when it comes to taste; exploring the boundaries between culinary cultures that echo my own feelings of ‘inbetweenness’ as a second-generation queer British Indian food writer. I didn't feel able to come out to my family until my 30s, so Pride…

make it every day. Easy bake. Flatbreads with chilli and fennel sausage, burrata and herbs Serves 2-4 Hands-on time 35-40 min, plus resting and proving “You can cook the flatbreads in a heavy pan, but if I'm outside, I prefer to lay them straight on the grill – they're smokier that way. For a veggie version use courgettes instead of sausage. Slice thinly and fry in the same way with the fennel seeds, chilli and garlic.” MAKE AHEAD You can make the dough a day ahead and prove overnight in the fridge. • 250g strong white bread flour, plus extra to dust • ½ tsp sea salt, plus extra • ½ tsp instant/fast-action yeast • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle For the topping • 6 outdoor-reared pork…

bite-size break. Mersea Island is one of those places with its own special atmosphere. When you drive over the Strood causeway (check the tide times) you may find yourself breathing out slowly in a contented sigh. Look forward to Constable-like clouds over blue water, little fishing boats, weathered wooden boardwalks begging for a sunset pic… It's an isle of two parts. The east is largely wild, the place for a stroll among nature. In comparison, West Mersea is the big city (in reality, more of a village). THE WILD, WILD EAST Follow the wild fennel-lined East Road to Seafood at Dawn (facebook.com/seafoodatdawn; lunch only, Tue-Sun), a restaurant in a cute whitewashed clapboard cottage. It has a working Wurlitzer jukebox and a sunny dining area out front. As we lunched on…

1 Which of these creams is thickened with cornflour? a) Crème pâtissière b) Crème anglaise c) Crème bavaroise d) Chantilly cream 2 Pinotage is a cross between which two grapes? a) Cabernet sauvignon & cabernet franc b) Pinot noir & cinsault c) Chenin blanc & merlot d) Shiraz & malbec 3 What's the term for the bits left in a pan after browning meat? a) Fond b) Brunoise c) Glace d) Jus 4 Who is the god of wine and pleasure in Greek myth? a) Hermes b) Demeter c) Hephaestus d) Dionysus 5 In a kitchen a mezzaluna is a … a) Pan strainer b) Curved chopper c) Specialist grater d) Pizza cutter 6 US measurements: how many tbsp are there in a cup? a) 8 b) 12 c) 16 d) 20 7 What was KFC's Colonel Sanders’ first name? a) Wyatt b) Atticus c) Thaddeus d) Harland 8 Add these…