Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2022 i Delicious UK

April is full-on spring at last, and with a four-day bank holiday weekend in the offing there’s something to look forward to at a time when the world is in utter turmoil. My dear late dad dedicated his life to fighting for the human rights and freedom of others, and it seems to me it’s never been more vital to gather close the people we love and appreciate the liberty we have, while doing whatever we can to be informed about and help the plight of those facing struggles we can’t imagine. Turn to p17 to read about the #CookForUkraine campaign, plus find more info and recipes online at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. Here at home there is warmth, hope and pleasure to be had in gathering together over the Easter weekend and…

Subject: Mothering Sunday solace From: Fiona Owen Thank you for your article about inspiring Mother’s Day recipes [Mar, p44]. I’m still coming to terms with the loss of my mum a few months ago and I was feeling sad about Mother’s Day approaching. I knew I’d miss choosing flowers and something spring-like for her to wear, and spending the day with her and my daughters. Reading the stories I started to think about all the recipes on pieces of card and scraps of paper that my mum used to keep in a plastic box. I formed a plan: the girls and I would each bake one of her favourites for a special Mother’s Day tea together. Out came Mum’s bonfire slice, coconut bar, trifle, ‘crab lady’ biscuits (don’t ask!), coffee…

“You need to try a cheese and jam sandwich” How did you discover delicious. magazine? A chef friend was featured, so I bought a copy and was hooked. I love Be A Better Cook. Cheer-up meal? Stew and dumplings reminds me of winter when I was a child. I used to leave the dumplings until last – and still do. Best cooking tip? Mash potatoes over a low heat to dry them out and warm the milk and butter (from Heston). Odd food combo? Cheese and jam sandwich. Treasured food memory? After taking part in a four-day cookery course at River Cottage, I was asked if I wanted to do work experience in the RC HQ kitchen. Foodie wish list? To go on more cookery courses and return to Rome,…

WOULD YOU EAT JAPANESE KNOTWEED? Knotweed ripple ice cream, featuring the rapacious weed stewed to a jam, will be on the menu on 5 April at sustainable London restaurant Silo. It launches a series by chef Douglas McMaster showcasing the potential of invasive and abundant species, including jellyfish and venison. £65pp, silolondon.com A feast for the mind PHOTOGRAPHS: AMANDA MARSALIS, ANDREW CAWLEYILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES. *FROM SCRATCH: CHARCUTERIE WILL BE OUT 14 APRIL The British Library’s Food Season is back in person (with some virtual talks too) this spring and kicks off on 7 April with Andi Oliver interviewing award-winning food writer Jessica B Harris. Other highlights include: • Eating to extinction: saving our food traditions 14 April • Food in prisons 29 April • TV legend Ainsley Harriott (above) 9…

PORTRAIT: CHRIS TERRY I’m like a monk on a Friday night. After rehearsals for Saturday Kitchen I put on the do-not-disturb sign, shut the hotel door and only drink water and mint tea. I do my research on the guests, watch a bit of Gogglebox and then it’s lights off by 9.30pm. Saturday morning it’s a double espresso and away we go! Keith Floyd’s delivery on his cookery shows was special. He was clearly intelligent and it was completely off the cuff. I saw a cookery programme recently that was so boring, scripted and sterile. I loved Keith’s joy for life and that old style of food, too, although the camera work is of the time and it all looks very brown. I think social media is damaging to a…

PHOTOGRAPHS: SAM FOLAN. FOOD STYLING: KATY MCCLELLAND. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS Bear with me, because some of you aren’t going to like this. I say it with love and as someone who respects your choices – dinner is dinner – but whenever I think about batch cooking, my heart sinks like a soufflé too long out of the oven. I know that for many people – particularly at busy times of year such as Easter, when (we hope) feasting, spoiling and getting together are on the menu – it makes a lot of sense to get ahead if you don’t plan on having shards of chocolate egg for breakfast every single day. And of course, more generally, I understand that desire to plan, to create order out of an entirely disordered…

Chocolate sauce Serves 4-6 Chop 200g good quality dark chocolate and put in a pan with 2 tbsp golden syrup, 100ml whole milk, 80ml double cream and the scraped seeds and pod of 1 vanilla bean. Heat gently over a low-medium heat, stirring, until the chocolate melts and the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat and whisk in 25g salted butter. USE IT Drizzle it warm or cooled on ice cream, waffles, pancakes... Chocolate fondue Serves 6-8 Finely chop 300g good quality dark or milk chocolate, then put in a large heatproof bowl. Heat 400ml double cream, stirring, until steaming and starting to simmer (don’t let it boil). Pour it over the chocolate, leave for 2-3 minutes, then stir until smooth and glossy. USE IT Serve hot with fruit,…

PORTRAIT: SAM PELLY. ILLUSTRATION: LAUREN THORLEY It’s not just gardens that burst into life at this time of year. Cheese counters are also in bloom with wheels and wedges decorated with seasonal leaves and flowers, while goat and sheep’s milk cheeses are at their best. Bring them together and you have a stunning Easter cheeseboard that puts winter firmly in the past. TURN OVER A NEW LEAF Leaves were traditionally used as packaging for wrapping cheese – the original ecowrap – but they can also add flavour. Mistralou from France is one of the best. Made in Provence, this seasonal soft goat’s cheese is wrapped in a dried chestnut leaf, which adds bosky tannins to the floral and honeyed fromage. The honeysuckle notes of sparkling vouvray, made with the chenin…

PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES. ALWAYS DRINK RESPONSIBLY Rhubarb in bloom Makes 1 Put 50ml rhubarb gin (see p132 to make your own, or use Warner’s), 25ml triple sec (orange liqueur, such as Cointreau), 20ml Stone’s ginger wine and 20ml lemon juice in a cocktail shaker, mixing glass or jug. Add ice, stir well, then strain into a cocktail glass. Add a rosemary sprig and, if you like, an unsprayed edible spring flower. Per serving 225kcals, no fat, no protein, 15.6g carbs (15.6g sugars), trace salt, no fibre…

When it comes to picking something to eat with a beer, most of us would choose chips over chocs because most beers or ales taste terrible with chocolate. But importantly... most beers doesn’t mean allbeers. The first beer and food epiphany I ever had was a dark choc brownie with a Belgian cherry beer. The beer’s sweet tartness combined with the gooey chocolate, bringing out new fruity flavours in both, while the beer’s bubbles lifted the richness of the chocolate. It’s still my ultimate beer and food match. Beer and chocolate share many qualities. Cacao beans are fermented, giving an underlying fruitiness like that found in all beer, while roasting the beans creates flavours we find in dark beers, like toffee, brown sugar, toasted nuts, dried fruit, coffee – and,…

Slow-cooker chicken curry Serves 8 (2 meals for 4) Hands-on time 10 min Simmering time 5 hours on low or 3 hours on high Specialist kit Slow cooker or hob-safe cast iron casserole EASY SWAPS Use bone-in chicken thighs or drumsticks if you prefer – you’ll need about 1.8kg chicken to account for the bone. If using skin-on chicken, brown it first, skin-side down, in a pan for 6-8 minutes. FLAVOUR BOOST If you like, fry the onion in a little veg oil or ghee for 10-12 minutes until softened and starting to brown before adding to the pot. KNOWHOW If the sauce is a little thin once cooked, remove the chicken and potatoes, then bubble it in a pan over a medium-high heat for 5-6 minutes until thickened. Return…

1 Supper eggs Stir 200g tinned black beans (rinsed and drained) into the simmered sauce, make 4 holes in the surface, then break an egg into each hole. Simmer until the eggs are cooked to your liking (putting a lid on will help cook the top). Sprinkle with chopped parsley or coriander and crumble over a little feta, then serve with toasted bread for mopping up. 2 Cheat’s pan lasagne Cook lasagne sheets according to the pack instructions until al dente, then toss in an oven-safe pan with the tomato sauce and a couple of handfuls of spinach. Once the spinach has wilted, stir it into the sauce, then top with a generous spoonful of ricotta, a drizzle of basil pesto and plenty of freshly grated parmesan. Grill until golden.…

“While researching recipes we’re always learning useful snippets. We discovered so much testing the chocolate recipes (p48) we had to share it – along with some pastry know-how to help you with Michel Roux Jr’s tart (p128)” JESS MEYER, ACTING DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR WHAT IS IT? It’s made from cocoa beans, the seeds of Theobroma cacao . The raw beans (known as cacao) are fermented, dried and roasted, then broken into pieces (nibs). These are ground to a paste, which is made up of cocoa butter and cocoa solids. A large proportion of the butter is extracted, leaving mostly solids, which are ground to a fine powder – cocoa powder. Note that cocoa powder isn’t the same as cacao powder, which is made from unroasted beans. HOW DO ‘NATURAL’ AND…

GREEN & BLACK’S Widely available, organic and made from ethically farmed beans. We love the 150g cooking chocolate blocks – available in white, milk and dark (it’s the same choc as the regular bars). greenandblacks.co.uk WILLIE’S CACAO The tasting notes are great for those looking to experiment with flavour pairings. The couverture drops are convenient for melting, but we also love to use the 100% range to add depth to savoury dishes – these can also be used in sweet recipes. williescacao.com VALRHONA These come in oval buttons that are convenient for measuring and melting. We love the vast range of percentages and flavour profiles that are available. For the budding chocolatier, the larger bags are a worthwhile investment. valrhona.com TONY’S CHOCOLONELY Widely available with an impressive range. We especially…

A scion of the Roux family fine-dining dynasty, Michel began his career with a patisserie apprenticeship in Paris. For nearly 30 years he’s been chef-patron of two-Michelin-star restaurant Le Gavroche, opened in 1967 by his late father Albert and uncle Michel Sr. He also oversees the food at London hotel The Langham and teaches at its cookery school, Sauce by The Langham. Sauce offers full day and shorter ‘building block’ courses on everything from pasta to French cuisine, taught by The Langham’s expert chefs. Michel Roux Jr’s classes are a chance to learn from the main man, while preparing a menu of his design. saucebylangham.com…

Great stuff to do Sorbet-pink cherry trees, pear, damson, plum and apple trees dressed up in pinky white… Who doesn’t love the froth of colour that announces spring? The National Trust (nationaltrust.org.uk) is encouraging us to share pics on social media of trees in all their glory – whether on city streets or in the countryside. Use the #blossomwatch hashtag when you post – and remember that NT gardens, such as this one (right) at the Wimpole Estate in Cambridgeshire, are hotspots for spring bloom spotting. Great things to learn Feel in need of advice on how to get flavours right, how to plan minimal-stress, sustainable menus and make the experience of cooking for a crowd as enjoyable for you, the host, as it is for the friends around your…

*CONTRIBUTIONS MAY BE EDITED FOR SPACE/CLARITY AND ARE PUBLISHED ON THE BASIS THAT CONTRIBUTORSHAVE THE AGREEMENT OF ANYONE MENTIONED FOR ANY PERSONAL INFORMATION TO BE PUBLISHED …two boxes of Italian craft wine, worth over £50, from When in Rome. In Italy, wine lovers visit their local winery with refillable containers to hold the wine, then go home to enjoy it. When in Rome is on a mission to bring this tradition to the UK. It offers Italian craft wine from independent producers in cans, flat bottles and eco-friendly boxes that stay fresh for up to 6 weeks once opened. wheninromewine.com FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN... Let us know your thoughts on this month’s issue by emailing us at info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk*…

PUBBY CREDS Chocolate-box village setting, antique furniture, stone floors and artwork that reflects the surrounding countryside. THE BOOZE At the small bar, choose from local cask ales and more than 250 wines. ANY FOOD? Yes, and it’s the main reason to visit: hearty, seasonal and born of Lancashire. The smoked salmon with nori crumpet and fall-apart aged beef with triple-cooked chips were highlights. THE WALK Here in the heart of the Ribble Valley, there are plenty of routes. Head to Pendle Hill or Parlick Pike for a climb, or stroll from the pub into nearby Whalley for its riverside and abbey views. CAN YOU STAY? Four striking (but pricey) rooms, each with a super-king bed and Nespresso machine. Breakfast is a five-course feast worth setting your alarm for. freemasons atwiswell.com…

SEASIDE INSPIRED Mmmm-worthy milk (or dark vegan) chocolate eggs, hand-made by Chococo in Dorset with chocolate impeccably sourced from South America. Plus, crack one open and you’ll find the inside studded with chocolate starfish and turtles (5% from each sale goes towards marine conservation). All-paper packaging too. Ocean Eggs, £13 for 175g or £27.50 for 400g, chococo.co.uk BAR HOPPING Hip London doughnut shop Crosstown is expanding its range (alongside ice cream and cookies) with six cool choc bars. There’s plain milk or dark, almond brittle, and matcha or yuzu-passion fruit ganache-filled bars. We rate the mocha-like coffee, made in a collab with Caravan Coffee Roasters. £5.95 for 70-100g (three for £15.95), crosstown.co.uk EGG-CITING Break through the dark egg shell and find a luscious pool of Sicilian pistachio cream – a…

“In restaurants, bistros and cafés, brunch has fast become one of the most popular meals of the day, with countless places adding it to their menus. Diners love it because the relaxed, easy-going vibe suits the way we like to eat at weekends. And cooks love it because its casual nature alleviates the stress of hosting. My recipes will help you create a feast in the comfort of your own home – perfect if you’re hosting a celebratory gathering over the big weekend. Prepare a rich ham-and-cheese toastie with dijon mustard; indulge in crayfish and avocado on sourdough; cook up a variation of the all-time favourite, poached eggs and asparagus, with a kick of spicy hollandaise sauce; or delight sweet-toothed guests with batches of coconut waffles made all the more…

RECIPE: HELENAS MOURSELLAS. PHOTOGRAPHS: BEN DEARNLEY.FOOD STYLING & STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS Vanilla hot cross buns with passion fruit glaze Makes 12 Hands-on time 30 min, plus rising/proving Oven time 20-25 min Specialist kit Reusable piping bag fitted with a small round nozzle (about 4mm) MAKE AHEAD The buns are best eaten on the day they’re baked, but will keep for 1-2 days in an airtight container. Warm in a low oven for 6-8 minutes to refresh – or split and toast. The buns also freeze well. Complete the recipe, cool completely, then wrap well and freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost and refresh in a low oven. KNOWHOW You may not need to use all the liquid to bring the dough together. It should be soft and evenly moist…

The descriptor ‘a force of nature’ is bandied around liberally, but Asma Khan is the very embodiment of it. Energy thrums off her in waves – and it’s a positive energy, almost childlike in its optimism. And she can talk, with vigour and grace, for two hours and barely draw breath. “Energy thrums off Asma in waves — and it’s a positive energy, almost childlike in its optimism… She loves food as much for its connection to a culture and people as for the physical pleasure of eating it” DIANA Her sister saw the fight in her early on. “When we were children, my sister would hold my hand and say, ‘You are going to be Jhansi ki Rani.’ She’s a hero in India, a princess who fought the British.…

SPIRIT OF THE MONTH York Gin Chocolate & Orange, York, England 42.5% This cleverly flavoured gin has a rich but not remotely cloying chocolate layer, lifted by fresh citrus, and a lingering, almost dry finish. It may be a playful homage to Terry’s Chocolate Orange, which was invented in York, but it will make a serious treat for Easter. Sip over ice with a slice of orange. £33.95/70cl,masterofmalt.com Les Jardiniers Muscat de St Jean de Minervois, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 15% Lovely fresh sweet muscat from the south of France. Honey and peach flavours suit lighter chocolate desserts (milk or white choc) and it pairs up brilliantly with fresh fruit too. £5.25/37.5cl, Sainsbury’s Tesco Moscatel de Valencia, Spain 15% Spain’s moscatel is the best budget buy of all dessert wines, offering rich…

1 Bunny chow (South African rolls) Slice the tops off crusty bread rolls and hollow out the middle to form a bowl. Brush with oil, then bake in a medium oven for 6-8 minutes until crisp. Fill with hot chicken curry and top with a salsa of chopped tomato, onion and coriander in a splash of wine vinegar with a pinch of sugar. 2 Cheat’s biryani Layer the curry in a heavy-based pan with freshly cooked basmati rice. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook over a very low heat for 20-30 minutes until piping hot. Top with shop-bought crispy fried onions or broken poppadums for some crunch, then sprinkle with fresh herbs to serve. 3 Curry chicken soup Shred the chicken and chop the potatoes into bite-size pieces. Reheat…

Rocky road cookies Makes About 18 Hands-on time 15 min, plus chilling Oven time 8 min MAKE AHEAD Prepare and shape the dough, then store, well wrapped, in the fridge for 2-3 days. Or open-freeze until solid, then store in the freezer in an airtight container. To cook from frozen, add 2 minutes to the cooking time. EASY SWAPS Freeze-dried strawberries can be found in the baking aisle of larger supermarkets or at Ocado. Swap for freeze-dried raspberries or chopped nuts if you prefer. • 150g dark chocolate, chopped • 150g salted butter, softened • 100g light brown soft sugar • 50g caster sugar • 1 medium free-range egg, beaten • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 175g plain flour • 50g desiccated coconut • 2 tbsp cocoa powder • 1 tsp baking powder • 150g mini eggs, roughly chopped (or 100g…

BUZZWORD Anti-nutrients These are natural compounds in plants and animals that block the absorption of nutrients. Glucosinolates in cruciferous veg like kale can prevent iodine absorption, while tannins in tea and coffee can hinder take-up of iron. Harvard School of Public Health has just reviewed anti-nutrients and advises that the benefits of eating foods that contain them probably outweigh the negatives. “Eating a variety of nutritious foods daily and avoiding large amounts of a single food at one meal can help to offset minor losses in nutrient absorption caused by anti-nutrients.” TREND WATCH A new report by consumer analysts Wunderman Thompson declares Peruvian gooseberries, known in the UK as physalis, one of the most fashionable foods of 2022. Their popularity is due to their health benefits, says the report, as…

TESTERS: LES DUNN, THEA EVERETT, PHOEBE STONE TAKEAWAY BEATER Charlie Bigham’s ready meals are our go-to if I don’t feel like cooking. Husband Giles took one bite of this curry and declared that Charlie makes a great sauce. Cook some rice while it warms in the pan (plenty for two). Charlie Bigham’s Satay Chicken Curry, 7.30 for 700g, Tesco, Ocado and Morrisons CULTURED EATING This kimchi variant combines beetroot, red cabbage, apple, garlic, ginger and more. The pickling has kept all the vibrancy of the raw veg with a healthy dose of good-for-the-gut bacteria. Use to liven up salads, rice bowls and workday cheese sarnies. Vadasz Super-Beet Kimchi, Waitrose, £4.50 for 400g PERFECTLY PORKY Ready-made sausage rolls have a bad rep, but these are made with outdoor bred RSPCA-assured pork.…

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDY GRIMSHAW, GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK What and why... Tempering gives chocolate a shiny finish and sharp snap. The process involves heating and cooling the chocolate to specific temperatures so the cocoa butter forms small, even crystals when set. The temperatures depend on the type of chocolate. METHOD 1: Seeding  You’ll need A heatproof glass bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water; instant-read or infrared thermometer; flexible spatula • Finely chop the chocolate. Slowly melt two thirds of it in the glass bowl (don’t let the bowl touch the water). Slowly heat to Temp 1 (see table). Remove the bowl from the heat and add the remaining chocolate. Stir until the added chocolate melts and it all cools to Temp 2. Put the bowl of chocolate back over the…

Michel Roux Jr’s tart case on p128 uses a pâte sablée. But what is it, and how does it vary from the more familiar sweet pastry (pâte sucrée)? Pâte sucrée (aka sweet shortcrust) Tender, sweeter and more crisp than regular shortcrust (pâte brisée) but with a similar flaky structure. Easy to work with but delicate once baked. INGREDIENTS Flour, salt, butter, caster sugar, egg yolks – high sugar-to-flour ratio. METHOD Sanding – dry ingredients and fat (cold) are rubbed together to form a sandy texture before the liquid is added. Can also be made using the creaming method (see pâte sablée). GOOD FOR Tarts that won’t be cooked again – fruit tarts, cream tarts, etc Pâte sablée Short and crumbly texture (similar to shortbread). Richest of the shortcrust type pastries,…

“This boozy treat is a cinch to make – great on its own or in the cocktail on p83. Like you, the delicious. team and I aren’t keen on chucking away anything food-related, so I’ve included a recipe for rhubarb and blueberry jam – a wonderful use for the gin-soaked fruit”JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR The recipe Makes 1 litre Hands-on time 10 min, plus 1 week steeping Specialist kit Sterilised 1.5 litre glass jar with an airtight seal, such as a Kilner jar; sterilised 1 litre glass bottle with a top; square of muslin/clean J-cloth MAKE AHEAD Once strained, the rhubarb gin will keep in a cool, dark place (or, better, the fridge) for several months. KNOWHOW For how to sterilise bottles, jars and lids, search ‘sterilise’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. • 500g…

• Keep it simple with roasties or mash and homemade gravy. • Add Middle Eastern spices, roast, shred, then wrap in a flatbread for a posh kebab. • Try Pembrokeshire Lamb’s half shoulder in these dishes (right). You’ll need to halve the recipes (to serve 3-4) to suit the cut – search for them at deliciousmagazine.co.uk Slow-cooked shoulder of lamb with chilli jam and rosemary The sweetness and the heat of the chilli works with the richness of the hogget. Moroccan-spiced lamb shoulder with onions & freekeh Hogget is the perfect match for the complex North African flavours of this dish. Grilled aromatic shoulder of lamb The fat on hogget melts on the BBQ, continually basting the meat and keeping it tender. PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD FAULKS…

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES In recent years a well-known burger chain introduced a new ordering system in its restaurants involving oversized smartphones, reducing the necessity for even the most modest amount of human interaction. This at least minimised your chances of being called ‘buddy’ by someone who wasn’t your buddy – and also gave rise to an exciting new option: the customise button. If you didn’t want gherkin, for instance, but liked extra ketchup, with a few well-placed finger taps you could orchestrate the kitchen into preparing you something unique. “If I’ve got a packet of Walkers and a freshly de-waxed Babybel, that Babybel is going in the bag with the crisps” Take that idea a stage further and equip yourself with something they don’t provide (a jar of sauerkraut in…

RECIPE: JULES MERCER. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON Tuna poke bowl Serves 1 Hands-on time 15 min, plus cooling Simmering time about 12 min KNOWHOW Poke (pronounced POH-keh) is a Hawaiian dish of cubed raw fish, often served with rice. Here we’ve added a Japanese-style dressing and colourful salad for taste and texture. EASY SWAPS Swap the fish for cooked prawns, breaded chicken or tofu if you prefer. • 100g sushi rice, rinsed in cold water in a colander • 1 tsp rice wine vinegar mixed with ½ tsp sugar • 100g sashimi-quality fresh tuna (or any fish), cubed – see Easy Swaps • 2 tbsp ponzu sauce • 1 lime, halved • 1 tsp black sesame seeds • ½ mango, peeled and sliced • ½ avocado, peeled (whole, sliced or diced as…

Brigette Ravenscroft Cottage pie here. My favourite comfort food. Sarah Jordan Fried chicken wings – one batch with Chinese salt and pepper seasoning, one batch with Korean gochujang. Tricia Venables I’m moving away from the usual roast to make the individual fish pies in the March issue [p59]. Jayne Glover Chicken Kyiv with crow garlic from the garden. Stacy Livingston Rushton It’s my husband’s birthday, so dinner is his choice: grilled lamb chops, mashed potatoes, buttered peas – and banana cream pie for dessert! Jane Owens Slow-cooked leg of lamb kleftiko (Rick Stein recipe) with homemade tzatziki and creamed spinach. Yvonne Cave Roast free-range chicken, brussels sprouts, roast potatoes, roast carrots and parsnips, bacon rolls, stuffing, bread sauce and gravy made from the giblets… Phew! Louise Tighe Slow-roast spiced pork…

FROM SCRATCH: CHARCUTERIE AND FERMENT Two new additions to the From Scratch series, with straightforward science and staple recipes. Tim Hayward covers charcuterie, from pastrami to pâté, via curing, drying and cooking. Mark Diacono takes on fermented foods including sauerkraut and kombucha, with ideas for putting home ferments to good use. Quadrille £12.99 each* TASTE TIBET Cook Yeshi Jampa grew up in eastern Tibet and now runs Taste Tibet restaurant in Oxford with his wife, Julie Kleeman. Their fascinating debut details rural life in the region and its food philosophy, featuring photos of Yeshi’s family. His approachable recipes include traditional breads, noodles and momos, plus dishes inspired by his time in India. Murdoch Books £25 FAST FEASTS Unable to take research trips to the countries that inspire his food writing…

“I love spring – it brings lighter days and a gloriously long weekend for Easter feasting. Mix and match these dishes to suit your mood and numbers – none requires hours in the kitchen, giving you more time to enjoy the celebrations. Happy cooking!”JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR Hibiscus and kombucha sparkling mocktail Serves 6 Hands-on time 10 min KNOWHOW To make the syrup, heat equal weights of sugar and water until dissolved, then cool and store in the fridge. • 3 tbsp simple syrup (buy Monin or see Know-how) • 2 tbsp hibiscus powder (from Waitrose or Amazon – or buy dried hibiscus from a health food shop and grind it) • Juice 3 limes, plus slices to garnish • Juice 2 ruby grapefruit, plus thin wedges to garnish • Chunky ice cubes to serve…

Chocolate Guinness cheesecake Serves 10-12 Hands-on time 30 min, plus overnight chilling Oven time 1 hour 40 min MAKE AHEAD Make the cheesecake to the end of step 2 at least 1 day before serving. It will keep for 3-4 days, covered in the fridge. Once assembled it will keep for 2-3 days. EASY SWAPS Swap the Guinness for another stout or porter beer – try a chocolate stout or milk stout for something different. For the biscuit base • 280g Oreos • 50g salted butter, melted For the filling • 680g full-fat cream cheese • 200g caster sugar • 100g dark brown sugar • 30g cocoa powder • 4 medium free-range eggs, plus 1 yolk, lightly beaten • 1 tbsp vanilla extract • 120g soured cream • 120ml Guinness (see Easy Swaps) • 280g good quality dark chocolate, melted (see…

FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: SAM FOLAN. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS “This cake is two bakes rolled into one, and perfect for any Easter celebration. Take the nutty marzipan of a simnel cake and combine it with glacé cherries and an extra hit of almond for my bakewell-tinged twist on this crowd-pleasing classic. Nobody will realise it’s gluten free” Cherry bakewell simnel cake Serves 12 Hands-on time 30 min, plus cooling Oven time 1 hour 45 min Specialist kit 20cm loose-bottomed round cake tin; blow torch (optional) MAKE AHEAD The cake will keep in an airtight container for 4-5 days. Alternatively, wrap well and freeze, either before or after adding the marzipan, for up to 3 months. Defrost overnight at room temperature before serving. KNOWHOW Xanthan gum is commonly used…

PHOTOGRAPHS: JESSY AMR, FEDERIVAS@YAHOO.COM Growing up in The Gambia, Awa was inspired to become a chef by her grandfather. “I enjoyed cooking with him because he told jokes and danced,” she says. “He told me, ‘If you’re happy in the kitchen, the food’s going to be fantastic.’” Awa shares this ethos at her Gambian cookery classes in London, where participants fold mackerel parcels and make mustardy chicken yassa before sharing the feast. “When people make a mistake, I tell them, ‘Don’t panic, we can fix this. Breathe!’” The classes are hosted by Migrateful, a charity that trains refugees and vulnerable migrants to become chef tutors, championing their country’s cuisine. The two-year programme supports them to integrate, get work experience, improve their English and overcome social isolation. COOKING UP CAREERS Jess…

Have you noticed the fashion for restaurants and wine shops to promote ‘natural wine’ but you’re not really sure what that means? You’re not the only one. The main problem is there’s no accepted definition – natural wine is an unclear term and one that gets wine buffs animated. If you’d like to know more about the subject and what such wines taste like, I can recommend An Introduction to Wild Wines, run by Debbie Warner and the Wild Wine School at the Knightor winery, St Austell, Cornwall – either in person (the next one is 26 April) or in autumn when online classes are planned. The course covers all the issues, from organic production and minimal intervention to less obvious biodynamic methods – with exemplary wines to oil the…

Spinach and paneer pilaf Serves 4 Hands-on time 15 min Simmering time 20 min EASY SWAPS Find paneer in the chilled aisle of larger supermarkets, or use halloumi instead (it’ll be saltier so watch the seasoning). • 2 tbsp oil • 220g pack paneer, cut into 1.5cm slices • 1 onion, thinly sliced • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • Thumb-size piece ginger, grated • 1 tsp cumin seeds • 1 tsp turmeric • 1 tsp garam masala • 1 tsp chilli flakes • 2 large tomatoes, chopped • 250g spinach • 250g basmati rice • 600ml vegetable stock • 1 tbsp chopped coriander • Yogurt and mango chutney to serve 1 Heat the oil in a large, lidded, non-stick frying pan or shallow casserole over a medium heat. Add the paneer and fry for 2-3 minutes until a deep golden brown. Set aside. Add the…

Weeknight tomato and salami pasta Serves 4 Hands-on time 25 min Simmering time 15-17 min MAKE AHEAD You can batch cook the tomato sauce, portion it out and freeze it for up to 3 months. Or make the sauce 2-3 days ahead – cool, cover and keep in the fridge until needed. Continue from step 3, gently warming the sauce. EASY SWAPS Vegetarians can leave out the salami and add a few capers at the end for a salty umami hit. • 60ml olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • Small bunch flatleaf parsley, leaves & stems finely chopped separately • 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 1/2 spicy salami or use an 80g pack, coarsely chopped • 2 tbsp tomato purée • 2 x 400g tins tomatoes (use cherry tomatoes if you don’t mind the…

Tamarind paste (from slow-cooker chicken curry p96) • ADD TO COCKTAILS The acidic tang of tamarind adds a fresh twist to your faithful cocktail recipes. Try it in a whisky sour or classic margarita, adding ½-1 tsp per serving, along with the simple sugar syrup. For a bloody mary with extra depth, add ½-1 tsp per cocktail, mixing it in with the tomato juice. • GLAZE ROAST VEGETABLES Mix 4 tbsp olive oil, 3 tbsp tamarind paste, 1 tbsp maple syrup, a pinch of chilli flakes and some salt in a small bowl. Toss with roast vegetables 10 minutes before the end of their cooking time, then return to the oven to finish. The glaze also works well for basting roast ham, a beef joint or a side of salmon. • ADD TO…

When I look back on the food I was bought up on in Cyprus, I realise how much of it revolved around the Greek Orthodox calendar and its fasting rules: no dairy, meat or fish on certain days; no olive oil or wine on others. Fasting is a historical practice among many communities. Many people will be fasting now for Lent, and recently, fasting for reasons other than religion has come under the spotlight. At a time when many of us are looking at ways to change our eating – for health, the environment or frugality – these traditions feel more relevant than ever. Depending on where you’re reading this, the likelihood is you live in a society where food can be eaten on the go, often before we ever…

YOU PICK THE RECIPES Choose from a mouthwatering selection – all fully tested, beautifully photographed delicious. recipes you can trust A PERSONAL TOUCH Put their name on the cover and a message inside QUICK & EASY Start creating your book now, from just £21.99 plus delivery HOW TO ORDER Go to delicious.mybespokegift.com and follow the step-by-step instructions… It’s simple!…

Q What’s the best way to melt chocolate? A There are a few rules you need to follow when melting chocolate so you get the best results every time. I tend to use two methods. 1 Double boiler method, with a glass or stainless steel bowl of chocolate set over a saucepan of very hot but not boiling water. (Ceramic bowls don’t work as the heat takes too long to get to the chocolate, then the heat is held too long in the ceramic.) Stir the chocolate well until it’s smooth and melted. Don’t allow any water or steam to get into the chocolate as this can cause it to seize (see right). 2 Baking tray in the oven method. Your tray and oven must be scrupulously clean. It’s a…

In this new series I’m going to show you how to nail traditional French desserts. To me, they’re comfort food – the ultimate pleasure – but these desserts aren’t easy to get right. The techniques have been perfected over the years and you need to practise them – but my know-how will help guide you. I grew up with lemon tart. My father and uncle served it in their restaurants – this one is originally my uncle’s recipe. I remember mountains of lemons being squeezed by young pastry chefs and I ate loads of the resulting tarts – probably to the point where I shouldn’t want to see another one – but I love them. Lemon tart has a little sharpness, sweetness and goes wonderfully with berries or just on…

Our symbols explained You can freeze all or most of the recipe. Unless stated otherwise, freeze the finished dish for up to 3 months. Defrost and heat until piping hot throughout. Vegetarian Vegan Gluten free Dairy free Recipes with the above symbols are suitable for special diets provided you choose appropriate free-from ingredients – check the label. Other recipes can easily be adapted for special diets – see our Know-how and Easy Swaps tips. Standard kit Our recipes assume cooks will have a food processor/blender/stick blender, an electric stand mixer/ hand mixer and a selection of pans, tins and casseroles, as well as compostable baking paper and kitchen paper. We give alternative methods for combining ingredients if possible, and specify the size of dish/tin needed if it’s relevant. We also…