Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2021 i Delicious UK

July is all about long, light-filled days… This issue is full of inspiration for how to spend them – and, most importantly, for what to cook to add delicious. sparkle to every moment. Although I’m writing this letter, regular readers spotted I was missing last month as I had to take time away for personal reasons (thanks for your many messages of support). I’m back now but, the time-lag of publishing being what it is, I haven’t been involved in sending this issue to press and I want to give a huge shout-out to the team for doing such an amazing job of producing this sunshine-filled tapestry of an issue. Whatever your plans this summer, home or away, you’ll find umpteen ideas to give your taste buds a surprise. Food…

THIS MONTH’S STAR EMAIL WINS... …two boxes of premium red and white Portuguese wine worth over £50, by the experts from The Wine Show (Amazon Prime). These delicious wines stay fresher for longer thanks to their box format, which produces less CO2 than glass bottles do. For more information, visit thewine show.com/ boxed-wine FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN... Let us know your thoughts on this month’s issue by emailing us at info@delicious magazine.co.uk* Star email Subject Fishing for information From Jane Keenan Like lots of other people who’ve watched the Netflix documentary Seaspiracy [on the effect of commercial overfishing on the world’s oceans] I’ve been trying to find out more about the subject. Can delicious. provide information on sustainable options? We eat a lot of fish, from tinned and frozen…

*JULY’S WINNER WILL BE PUBLISHED IN OUR SEPTEMBER ISSUE Retired manager Pamela Hughson, seen here at  the delicious. 15th birthday party with her husband, Harry, lives in Wiltshire Early food memories? Watching my mother make pastry was fascinating. She made a tart with garden-grown blackcurrants that melted in your mouth. My pastry never compares. If we’d been away, my father used to make a victoria sponge to welcome us home. First recipe you made? Raspberry blancmange in a domestic science lesson. When my father proudly took a taste, his eyes watered. I didn’t know the school milk pan had been used just before to boil onions! Top ingredient? Fish is a favourite and my father was a good fisherman. One time he turned around to show us a huge bass…

The garden was the first thing I did when I moved into our cottage at Highclere Castle four years ago with my fiancé, Harry. With acres to look after, it was overwhelming – but now I am as passionate about growing veg as I am about cooking. I am definitely a tree-hugger. There is an incredible energy around trees – I go out with a mat, lie flat under a tree, look up and breathe it in. I used to be such a rushing person, but I’m not any more – the countryside does that to you. Tina Turner likes to strut around our garden. She is one of our lovely Burford Brown hens – there’s also Henneth Paltrow and Eggy Pop. They eat out of my hand, run after…

1 With its bright gingham print and cherry design, this serving board is a sweet retro touch for the kitchen. At around 33cm wide, it’s large enough to suit a big family too. Cherries Serving Board, £20, cathkidston.com 2 Practical baskets in a gorgeous raspberry colour are just the thing to corral kitchen bits and bobs neatly on open shelving. Berry baskets, £39 for a set of three, mustardmade.co.uk 3 If you love homeware (guilty as charged), chances are you’ve heard of Matilda Goad. Her lampshades are hot property right now, but we love these simple napkins featuring her signature squiggle. Scallop Trim Linen Napkins, £65 for four, matildagoad.com 4 Have you ever seen anything so pretty? This petite 9cm glass vase is perfect for holding a single stem to…

GLEBE HOUSE On top of a hill in a tucked-away east Devon valley, this idyllic restaurant with rooms is supplied by its smallholding. glebehousedevon.co.uk KILLIEHUNTLY Wonderful Scottish produce here, sourced from the farm and wider estate. killiehuntly.scot L’ENCLUME Exceptional fine dining in Cumbria from forager-farmer-restaurateur Simon Rogan. lenclume.co.uk PORTHMINSTER BEACH CAFÉ Acclaimed Cornish establishment serving seafood, foraged coastal herbs and home grown veg. porthminstercafe.co.uk RIVERFORD FIELD KITCHEN Award-winning Devon restaurant that makes use of its own organic veg. fieldkitchen.riverford.co.uk ROTH BAR & GRILL Exciting cooking using produce from their farm and walled garden in Somerset. rothbarandgrill.co.uk THE GOODS SHED Enjoy homely dishes from Kent produce at this farm shop set within a restaurant. thegoodsshed.co.uk…

Raspberry and rosewater cordial with fizz Makes about 500ml/serves 10 Hands-on time 15 minutes, plus cooling Simmering time 10 minutes You’ll also need Stick blender or regular blender; jar or bottle Useful to have Funnel MAKE AHEAD Keep the cordial, sealed in its bottle or jar, for up to 3 months. KNOWHOW Search ‘how to sterilise jars’ at delicious magazine.co.uk. EASY SWAPS Try other summer berries like strawberries instead of raspberries. • 350g raspberries, plus a few extra to serve • 200g caster sugar • Juice 1 lime • 1-2 tbsp rosewater • Sparkling wine or sparkling water, dried rose petals and ice cubes to serve 1 Put the raspberries, sugar, lime juice and 350ml water in a large heavy-based pan over a low heat. Stir gently until the sugar dissolves, then bring to the…

Pea shoots with jersey royals, pearl barley and hot-smoked trout Serves 2 Hands-on time 15 min Simmering time 40-45 min “If you’ve grown pea shoots (see my tips, opposite), this is the salad you should make with your first harvest.” KNOW HOW Hot-smoked trout is available from some larger supermarkets and in delis. If you can’t get hold of it, use hot-smoked salmon instead. • 75g pearl barley • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 200g new potatoes, scrubbed – preferably jersey royals if in season • 200g natural yogurt • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 6 tbsp finely chopped green herbs – any mix of parsley, mint, dill, fennel, sorrel – plus a few extra sprigs, leaves picked and left whole, to serve • 40g pea shoots • 125g frozen peas, defrosted • 3 spring onions,…

Buy it now PORTRAIT: ANDREW CROWLEY. PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS: GETTY IMAGES Chard is bursting with vitamin K – and it’s at its best right now. If your kids are shy of the green stuff, new US research suggests children are more willing to drink green veg than eat it. So try whizzing some chard into a fruit smoothie. Chances are they’ll love it. SPOTLIGHT ON: SELENIUM Mounting research suggests that the mineral selenium is more important for our bodily functions, including our immune system, than previously thought. But fortunately, we can get enough from our diet without the need for supplements, according to the NHS. Selenium is found in fish, meat and eggs – but if you’re vegan, vegetarian or consuming very little meat and fish, include nuts in your…

Deep-fat frying Beware vats of boiling oil. There’s a reason they were used to repel attackers during sieges. Torching Why would you be happy to see someone wielding a blowtorch? Yet a crème brûlée makes it all okay. Liquid nitrogen Yes, it makes instant ice cream, but it also brings the risk of frostbite. Is it worth your finger falling off for a tutti frutti? Mandoline-slicing As many a YouTube video attests, it’s genius until the inevitable... Ouch!…

Slow-cooker gammon with soy and ginger Serves 6-8 Hands-on time 15 min, plus resting Slow cooker time 4½-5 hours on low or 2½-3 hours on high Oven time 15-20 minutes You’ll also need Slow cooker (or casserole with a tight fitting lid) Useful to have Probe thermometer KNOWHOW To cook in the oven, heat it to 130ºC fan/gas 2. Add the ingredients to the casserole, then top up with enough water to cover the gammon. Cover with a circle of compostable baking paper slightly larger than the casserole (wet it slightly, then scrunch it up and fit on top). Put on the lid and cook for 3-3½ hours, turning halfway through. Shaoxing wine is a type of Chinese rice wine for cooking. Find it in the international food isle of…

MAIN RECIPE: TROY WILLIS. PHOTOGRAPH: DAN JONES. FOOD STYLING: JULESMERCER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. ADDITIONAL RECIPES: JESS MEYER Coconut milk (from curry goat stew p26) • SPEEDY SATAY SAUCE Mix 4 tbsp smooth peanut butter, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp medium curry powder and 1 tsp dark brown sugar in a small pan. Slowly add 150ml coconut milk. Stir over a low heat until smooth and warmed through. Add a squeeze of lime juice and season with a little more soy. Serve with grilled chicken or tofu, or thin with a little water and use as a dressing for salads. • TROPICAL OVERNIGHT OATS Mix 4 tbsp jumbo oats, 2 tbsp chia seeds and 200ml coconut milk in a bowl. Cover and soak overnight in the fridge. Serve topped with your favourite…

SUGAR-FREE SNACKING Summer weather means ice cream. Look out for Wheyhey, an ice cream that’s low in sugar – only 80-100cals per 100ml. My kids fought for the chocolate & salted caramel flavour. From £4.50 for 500ml, M&S, Spar or wheyhey.com A TASTE OF SOUTH AFRICA We’ve become more daring with our barbecues lately, and husband Giles loved these South African boerewors. Made from 92% meat (a mix of lamb, pork and beef), they were well spiced and juicy. K’s Wors Boerewors, £5.49 for 400g, Ocado, Costco or kswors.co.uk NEW FRUITY FAVOURITE Bonne Maman yogurt now comes in a gloriously fruity raspberry and blackberry flavour, made with no artificial colours, flavours or sweeteners. The pots look cute on the breakfast table too. £2.50 for 450g, Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, Morrisons and Asda…

“You scream, I scream, we all scream for ice cream — particularly when the weather heats up. But how does a rich mix of cream, eggs and sugar transform into something smooth, soft and delicious rather than ending up as just a frozen block?” Food writer (and self-confessed food obsessive) Lucas Hollweg The science-y bit A classic custard-based ice cream is a frozen mixture of milk and/or cream, sugar, often egg yolks, plus various flavourings, which can be anything from vanilla and fruit to chocolate or cookie crumbs. Rather than just tipping the mixture into a container and putting it in a freezer, ice cream is usually churned during the freezing process, either in an ice cream maker or by ‘still freezing’ – which involves removing it from the freezer…

1 How to make the hole I stick my index finger through the middle of the dough ball, then push my other index finger through the opposite way. Move your fingers around each other in a circle to stretch and open up the hole evenly. 2 Make your bagel hole BIG When shaping your bagels in step 3 (above), make the hole twice as big as you’d like the final hole to be, as it will close up when the bagel is proving and baking. The bagel will look skinny, but it will fatten up when cooked. 3 Tipping in your bagels to poach When about to poach the bagels, I cut the baking paper each one has been proving on. You can then pick up the bagel using the…

The expert guide to CRÉMANT It’s the fizz that’s becoming everyone’s favourite this summer – France’s crémant. This is not a brand or a grape; crémants are premium dry sparklers made using the same meticulous method as champagne (second fermentation in their bottle with long ageing), but outside the Champagne area. You’ll find crémants from regions including Burgundy (Bourgogne), Jura, the Loire and Alsace. Each one can use its own grape varieties; so the Loire is dominated by crisp chenin blanc, while Alsace uses appley pinot blanc and riesling, among others. Burgundy has a richer style, relying mainly on two traditional champagne grapes, chardonnay and pinot noir (and, tip: it can taste quite a lot like champagne…). Savvy sparkling buyers know that crémant often offers high quality and good value.…

It’s always a worry for Stephany Hardingham “when I see a small child in a white T-shirt eating one of our blackcurrant fruit cream ices”. The reason, says the managing director of Suffolk ice cream company Alder Tree, is the vibrant pinky-purple colour of her product, which is “packed with fruit”. Whereas most ice creams contain around 15% fruit, “ours contains 38%. That’s what makes it so special” (and so dangerous to white T-shirts). “We also use whipping cream rather than milk, so you get fruitiness and rich creaminess,” she adds. This moreish pairing of tart berries and cream helped Alder Tree Brilliant Blackcurrant Cream Ice scoop the Great Taste Golden Fork for East Anglia’s best product in 2020. “The recipe has been a closely guarded secret for years” HOW…

Cooking is for everyone If we could get everyone in the world cooking we would. Food brings people together – families, friends, communities – and it’s a pleasure. We believe every child has the right to learn how to make proper, nutritious meals – and to discover the fun and joy of cooking. You can trust us Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, at least twice, using domestic ovens and hobs, so you can be confident our recipes work every time. When it comes to reviews, we only recommend stuff we rate and deem to be of good quality and worth the price tag. Keeping it simple Eating locally and seasonally, whenever you can, really is a no-brainer. We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell…

Who’s behind the @? Cookbook author Genevieve Taylor’s works include Charred (Quadrille £16.99), a brilliant guide to barbecued veg, and 2021’s Foolproof BBQ (Quadrille £12.99). She’s a fire cooking expert and runs the Bristol Fire School, does demos at food festivals and has a YouTube channel. What’s great about her feed? The smoke-licked food jumps off the screen: piri piri steak, chicken shawarma wraps, scorched veg… Even an orange and cardamom cake cooked over the coals. Ample inspiration for cooking outdoors, plus videos ranging from the physics of heat to understanding meat fibres.…

LETTERS MAY BE EDITED FOR SPACE/CLARITY Fiona Turnbull says “Griddled prawns and lots of salad. Served with a nice chilled bottle of pink. Perfect.” Janice Jones says “I’m loving the salmon rub in the June issue, with the fennel salad and crème fraîche sauce. Had it twice already...” Kevin Flynn says “Am I the only one who loves a curry on a hot day? Eaten in the garden with a crisp cold beer.” HAVE YOUR SAY Connect with other delicious. cooks on our reader panel on Facebook, where we post fun, food-related questions to help us get to know you better. From time to time we’ll ask you for your feedback on delicious. – the magazine, website and our social channels. Join at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ readerpanel…

I’m a longstanding member of that much-maligned club: decaf coffee drinkers. I have my reasons. Let’s remember that caffeine is a psychoactive drug and can boost cortisol levels. I find its effects similar to anxiety: racing heart, jitters… Even the alertness bothers me (some days I can do without a heightened awareness of everything, thankyouverymuch). The taste and ritual of coffee get me out of bed, but whether I want it with a dose of the frenzies depends on the day. And, thanks to decaf, I have a choice. Shame there’s often someone who needs to inform me: “You DO know decaf still has caffeine in it?” Yes I do, thank you, and I also know it’s nowhere near enough to send my heart bursting through my chest like something…

I grew up in the 1970s in Handsworth, at a time when girls were dutiful in their studies and chores, secretly planning escapes via higher education, while boys ran free, allowed to play out at all hours. It was so unfair! I remember weekend phone calls to Jamaica, the receiver handed to each child to wish a stranger called Grandmother well and ask respectful questions: “How do you do?... How is the weather?...” until it was the next sibling’s turn and we could rush away upstairs, tongue-tied. Who was I talking to? I didn’t think about it much, keen to escape and play. But now, how I wish I’d asked more questions – not about the weather, but about what she was cooking. I think about my mother’s pride in…

VEGGIE RECIPE Courgette flowers stuffed with peas, dill and mint Serves 4 as a starter or nibble Hands-on time 45-50 min You’ll also need Food processor MAKE AHEAD The filling can be made 1-2 days ahead. Keep covered in the fridge. Prepare the flowers up to the end of step 3, up to 6 hours ahead. KNOWHOW Find courgette flowers at some supermarkets, good greengrocers and farmers’ markets during summer. They have a short shelf life, so try to buy them as fresh as possible or, even better, grow your own. DON’T THROW IT Left over filling can be spread on sandwiches, stirred through salads or served with grilled fish or chicken. • 20g unsalted butter • 2 spring onions, thinly sliced • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 250g podded or frozen peas • Boiling…

Turkish-style pizzas (lahmacun) Serves 4 (makes 2 pizzas) Hands-on time 35 minutes, plus 1 hour 15 min rising and proving Oven time 15 minutes You’ll also need Rolling pin; 2 large oven trays, lightly greased MAKE AHEAD Make the mince topping up to 1 day ahead. Store covered in the fridge. KNOWHOW Za’atar is an aromatic spice blend used in southern Turkey and the Middle East, and contains sesame seeds, sumac and dried thyme, mint and marjoram. Find it in larger supermarkets. It’s great sprinkled over grilled meat and cheese, fried eggs, salads... almost anything savoury you can think of. • 200g strong white bread flour, plus extra to dust • ½ tsp salt • 7g fast-action dried yeast • ¼ tsp caster sugar • 40ml sunflower oil, plus extra for oiling • 1 medium free-range…

The better prepared you are the easier it will be to relax and enjoy your escape to the outdoors, even if it’s somewhere close to home. Here’s how to ensure there’s minimal work when you get there: STAY COOL Leave chilled items in the fridge until the last minute, ready to go straight into the cool box. BOX CLEVER You’ll need at least 25% of the space in your cool box for ice packs at the bottom and top. If you’re bringing ice cubes, these can do double duty as ice blocks en route. You could also try freezing water and other drinks. Try to fill your cool box to the top as that will help it stay colder for longer. FIND A SHADY SPOT Keep cool boxes and bags…

“Poke a few holes in the bottom of a wide, shallow tray (the size of A4 paper or bigger) and fill with soil. Scatter some pea seeds over the soil, at least 2.5cm apart, then poke them into the soil, 2cm deep. Cover the holes up, keep watered – and wait. In a few weeks, the tray will have transformed into a slab of pea shoot turf, the tips of which can be pinched out two or three times for salads before the plant catches on and gives up the ghost.”…

1 VEGGIE RECIPE Harissa-spiced cauliflower with creamy avocado and herb sauce Serves 2-3 Hands-on time 30 min You’ll also need Barbecue with a lid; mini food processor/blender DON’T WASTE IT Store any leftover sauce, covered in the fridge, for 1-2 days. Toss with pasta or potato salads, slather onto sandwiches or use as a dip with crudités for a quick snack. SKIP THE BBQ Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ gas 6. Put the harissa-rubbed cauliflower and onion wedges on a heavy oven tray and roast for 30-35 minutes until the cauliflower is tender and a little charred. • 1 small cauliflower, small leaves attached, cut into 4 wedges • 1-2 tbsp rose harissa paste • 1 red onion, cut into 6 wedges • 150g reduced fat crème fraîche (or soured cream or…

1 Bao buns (pictured)  Serves 3-4 Heat 8 bao buns according to the pack instructions (to make your own, search ‘bao buns’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk ). Fill with slices of gammon, then top with shredded carrot, cucumber slices, spring onions, coriander leaves and chopped toasted peanuts. Add hoisin sauce and some sliced red chilli if you like. 2 Mango & rice noodle salad Serves 3-4 Cook 200g vermicelli rice noodles according to the pack instructions, then refresh under cold water and drain. Put the noodles in a large bowl with 150-200g shredded gammon, 1 peeled and sliced mango and about 300g finely sliced raw veg (mix of red pepper, carrot, mangetout, spring onions and cucumber). In a separate bowl, whisk the juice of 2 limes, 2 tbsp fish sauce, 2 tsp…

RECIPE: AMANDA JAMES. PHOTOGRAPH: DAN JONES. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Double choc cookies with a gooey caramel centre Makes 16 cookies Hands-on time 20 minutes, plus chilling and cooling Oven time 15 minutes You’ll also need 2 large baking trays lined with compostable baking paper Useful to have Electric hand mixer or stand mixer MAKE AHEAD You can make the cookies to the end of step 4 up to 2 days ahead. Store in an airtight container in the fridge with baking paper between the layers to prevent them from sticking together. To freeze, open-freeze the uncooked cookies on the trays for 1-2 hours, then pack into freezer bags and store in the freezer for up to 3 months. Cook from frozen, adding 2-3 minutes to the…

PRACTISE & HAVE PATIENCE BBQ isn’t a precise cooking method and requires being much more hands-on. You’ll need to set up and tend to your BBQ ‘oven’ – so it’s not for those who like it all to be just so and exactly on time. THE RIGHT FUEL You can use wood or charcoal, but make sure you buy from a sustainable source. Charcoal often comes from tropical trees. We use londonlogco.com, which supplies many chefs. The chunky charcoal has a slow burn time. Make sure any logs and kindling are kiln-dried and suitable for cookery, so there’s no additional smoke or unwanted tree resin. KEEP IT TOPPED UP If you’re cooking long and slow you’ll need to top up – on average you need to add five charcoal briquettes…

Did you know…? Areas of seagrass, known as seagrass meadows, are found in shallow waters around the UK. They’re one of nature’s greatest weapons against climate change, capturing carbon 35 times faster than a rainforest. Sadly, 90% of the UK’s seagrass meadows have been damaged by pollution, commercial fishing and building activity, but a major new rewilding project from Natural England and partners hopes to restore meadows off the south coast. TIP OF THE MONTH “Don’t throw away strawberry tops and leaves,” says lifestyle writer Karen Edwards. “Add them to a clean jar, cover with water and leave for 2 hours to make strawberry-infused water. Or for fruity fun, use gin or vodka instead of water. Cover and leave for 2-3 days, then strain and enjoy with a mixer over…

MAKAN Elizabeth Haigh, who runs Mei Mei restaurant in London’s Borough Market, describes her book as “a project about collecting, adapting and understanding” her mother’s recipes – the food she grew up eating as a child in Singapore. Beautiful photography and Haigh’s recipes for fried Hainanese chicken rice and Hokkien noodles will take you straight to the food-loving city state. Bloomsbury Absolute £26 MY SHANGHAI Multi-talented Betty Liu (she’s a photographer and trainee surgeon as well as a food writer) draws on her family’s roots in eastern China. She takes readers through the traditions, techniques and ingredients used in classic Shanghai food – including red-braised dishes (so-called for their colour) and the region’s famed soup dumplings – and makes it do-able for home cooks. Harper Design £27 CIUDAD DE MEXICO…

Criolla Grande 2020, Buenas Vides, Argentina 13.5% Brilliant-value Argentinian red – juicy and soft, full of raspberries and red cherries. Such an easygoing drop, it’s a great choice for parties. £5.99, Aldi Extra Special Chardonnay 2020, Western Cape, South Africa 13.5% This fruity chardonnay bursts with juicy peaches and pineapples. Perfect for barbecued chicken or salmon, even with sweet or spicy sauces. £5.50, Asda Leyda Reserva Syrah 2019, Leyda Valley, Chile 13% Premium syrah from a cooler, coastal region of Chile with layers of red fruit, blackcurrant, spice, pepper and oak. Try it with a juicy steak. £10 (down to £9 9-29 June), The Co-op Balfour Pink Fizz, Hush Heath Estate, Kent, England 11.5% A spritzy English rosé in a convenient can. It’s crisp and mouthwatering with red cherry and…

@STTHbaby Apple pie in the oven, followed closely by watermelon basil margarita @kevin_wilkinson Bread, fresh coffee, salt & vinegar on chips, bacon, strawberries (had to add a healthy option) @dumplingx2 Freshly chopped spring onions! @chutneylover Sizzling aroma of tadka! @Hel2021 Fresh bread, rosemary & sage, spezzatino in the slow cooker and fried doughnuts @redfragglepigs Cinnamon rolls @MLRoff Pumpkin pie, reminding me of family Thanksgivings back in the USA. @second_grace Freshly ground black pepper @cee_rrr Anything with vanilla in it! @panfusine The aroma of toasted spices after making fresh sambar powder @Syymon_77 Pretty much anything being cooked in butter @emmachesters1 Freshly crushed cardamom never fails to lift my spirit @silverton_kate Warm banana cake, ground coffee & nutmeg! @FoodWineFinder Fresh baked bread, just brewed coffee, frying bacon @loz_west Onions and garlic frying…

Roast duck with plums and redcurrants Serves 2-4 Hands-on time 45 min, plus resting and 12-24 hours brining Grill time 2 hours 20-25 min You’ll also need Oven tray and wire rack; BBQ with a lid; large old flameproof roasting tin; small roasting tin or cast-iron skillet Useful to have Digital probe thermometer KNOWHOW Pricking the skin lets the fat run out when heated, leaving the skin crisp. You'll need to top up the coals for a 2 hour cook – getting them glowing white first in a chimney starter makes it easier. If you have one, use a digital probe thermometer to check the temperature of the duck in the thickest part of the breast. It should read at least 65ºC when removed from the BBQ (it will rise…

REPORTAGE PHOTOGRAPHS: CHARLIE MCKAY, STEPHEN PEREZ The UK’s hospitality sector has sprung back to life after a year of enforced closures, among them a handful of places run by visionary chefs whose self-sufficient, local and seasonal approach seems savvier than ever. These pioneering cooks turned their hands to tending the soil, keen to grow heritage vegetable varieties, forage unusual herbs and even rear their own livestock. Farming is a notoriously hard business, so why all the extra effort? Restaurants with farms offer chefs the opportunity for complete control over the food chain and the chance to cook produce at its absolute peak. It’s an approach that’s less farm-to-table, more farm- and - table. Helen Graves meets the chefs who’ve fallen in love with the soil. THE SMALL HOLDING, KENT Having…

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON.FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE VEGAN RECIPE Barbecued vegetables with herby shallot and tahini dressing Serves 3-4 Hands-on time 15 min, plus tending to the grill Grill time 1 hour You’ll also need Barbecue (with a lid); food processor or blender (small is fine); heavy-based ovenproof frying pan NEXT TIME Add any vegetables you fancy – try ‘steaks’ of celeriac or cauliflower or wedges of hispi cabbage. Split the aubergine while it’s still on the grill and add some dressing to give it a sweeter, caramelised flavour. SCALE IT UP Make a double batch of dressing and add another aubergine and some more courgettes to feed a crowd. • 2 medium courgettes (or 6 baby courgettes) • 4 salad onions • 4 medium shallots, unpeeled • 8 large runner…

Inspired to bake the upside-down apricot cake for a summer get together? This August, Breast Cancer Now is calling on people to host an afternoon tea to help fund its crucial research and support for people affected by breast cancer through its free helpline and community services. The charity funds around a third of breast cancer research in the UK, with the ambition that, by 2050, everyone diagnosed with the disease will live and live well. With fundraising events cancelled last year and vital services and projects disrupted by the pandemic, there’s never been a better time to get involved. Whether you deliver cake to neighbours or take tea in the garden with friends* , visit breastcancernow.org/cuppa to sign up and receive your free fundraising kit, including exclusive digital bunting by Cath…

In Greek myth, it was Prometheus who gave civilising fire to the human race and was punished for it. Nice story but it’s more likely that, in the distant past, a few brave ape-like ancestors overcame their instinctive fear and risked the hot ashes of a bushfire to retrieve the freshly cooked flesh of an unlucky antelope. It tasted good and the charred meat was easier to digest than the raw stuff. These days cooking is an altogether safer enterprise, but that primal association of cooking and danger hasn’t completely left us. Just ask Nigella Lawson. “Deep frying is never relaxing but I like that little frisson of fear,” she cooed in an episode of her show Cook, Eat, Repeat. For others (particularly those of us who remember those terrifying…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS VEGGIE RECIPE Cheese and onion quiche Serves 8-10 Hands-on time 30 min, plus chilling Oven time 1 hour 15 min You’ll also need 22cm loose-bottomed fluted tart tin Useful to have Food processor MAKE AHEAD Keep the wrapped pastry for up to 3 days in the fridge. Or freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge overnight. The baked quiche will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for 1-2 days. Serve cold or, even better, warm in a low oven first. KNOWHOW Pouring the filling into a hot pastry shell will help prevent the base from going soggy. EASY SWAPS For a gluten-free pastry, use the same quantity of plain white gluten-free flour…

Serves 1 Hands-on time 15 min You’ll also need Non-stick frying pan KNOWHOW Kimchee (or kimchi), from Korea, is a fermented mix of cabbage or other veg, flavoured with chilli, garlic and spices. Find it in some large supermarkets, Asian stores and health food shops or make your own – search ‘cabbage and carrot kimchee’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. Some kimchees are stronger and spicier than others. Taste it and adjust the quantity you use. DON’T WASTE IT Add leftover kimchee to soups, stews, tacos or burgers for an extra kick. • 80g leftover roast chicken, roughly shredded • 2 slices thick white bloomer bread • 50-100g kimchee, drained (see Know-how) • 50g mature cheddar, grated • 50g cooking mozzarella (the dry stuff), grated – we used Galbani • Knob of unsalted butter, softened 1 Layer the leftover…

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Seasonal hero: samphire As we wave goodbye to asparagus, try adding samphire to your summer repertoire. This green veg grows along the British coastline, and its salty flavour and crisp texture make it great as a side dish or versatile ingredient. It works particularly well with seafood and pasta dishes. How to enjoy Quickly stir-fry or blanch before tossing in butter, or add to pasta cooking water for the final few minutes’ cooking. Alternatively, stir into frittatas and bakes instead of peas. Try this Search ‘chickpea linguine with samphire and lemon’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk for a budget-friendly pasta dish. Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk to find more fabulous samphire recipe ideas ROULADE TIN APOLOGIES! We used a standard rectangular tin for swiss rolls and traybakes to make our June cover recipe, eton…

What’s good about it? Made from cold-forged aluminium, it has a thickened bottom and stainless-steel plate, which gives fantastic heat distribution. The non-stick coating means you don’t need to add as much oil to the pan. I also liked the longer handle, which made the pan feel easy to move around the hob. The entire range of pans is dishwasher safe, but to be honest it cleaned up pretty effortlessly in the sink. Bonus? It can be used on all hobs including induction and can go in the oven/under the grill up to 250ºC, so it’s ideal for finishing off dishes to give them a crispy top. How much? The frying pan comes in three sizes: 24cm at £99.95, 26cm at £109 or 28cm (as tested) at £119.95. For stockist…

“The history of the bagel is contested, but it’s likely to have developed in Poland or Germany hundreds of years ago. Bagels are poached before they’re baked, giving them their distinct chew, and if poached in a bath of lye they develop the classic lacquered crust too. Lye is a corrosive alkali, though, and not recommended for home cooks! Bicarbonate of soda is weaker but safer — and malt extract will give you a brown crust to be proud of. My recipe uses a 10-hour overnight prove, which is perfect for ensuring you get fresh baked bagels for breakfast.” DAVID ATHERTON A BIT ABOUT DAVID  The Bake Off 2019 winner wowed the judges with his intriguing flavours and healthy bakes. David works as a global health adviser, his cooking influenced…

WHY YOU NEED IT IN YOUR LIFE There’s a summery glow to this soft, fresh cheese which comes in jars and is marinated in sunshine-yellow rapeseed oil with peppercorns, thyme and garlic. Graceburn is creamier, smoother and less salty than feta but can be used in the same way. Crumble it into salads, sprinkle on barbecued lamb cutlets or serve straight from the jar at picnics – it’s the ultimate outdoor eating cheese. THE BACKSTORY Cheese marinated in oil is popular in Australia, where it’s known as ‘Persian fetta’. Aussie cheesemaker Dave Holton learned how to make it in the Yarra Valley before a 10-day stint at UK cheesemonger Neal’s Yard turned into a five-year stay – and ultimately the creation of Blackwoods Cheese Company in 2013. The company is…