Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2021 i Delicious UK

April means new life and hope, and there’s a lot of both in the air at the moment; hope is within touching distance. April ushers in a new season, too, when thoughts turn to renewal and taking stock… All reasons for us picking this month to relaunch your delicious. magazine. I know many of you love our regular features, but fear not: we’ve reinvented them, made them even better and added in a host of new ideas to entertain and inspire you (plus the odd little surprise treat). So, what’s in store…? The first change you’ll notice is the design. Then there are new sections: Make.Eat.Share (p25) has seasonal produce, menus and a technical bake to challenge you (a labour of love, but I promise it will reap rich rewards).…

David Preece, “73 years young”, loves barbecuing, rides a Vespa – and has been reading delicious. since the first issue When did you become interested in cooking? At school. When I left, I went to catering college before becoming a chef. I married young and was soon to become a father. As much as I liked the job, the hours were cruel, so I gave up and moved into sales – but kept my interest in cooking going. Favourite delicious. recipe? I’ve cooked hundreds – my most used is James Knappett’s Goan roast chicken [May/Jun 2020, p112 – or find the recipe at deliciousmagazine.co.uk]. Your signature dish? I love barbecueing. My tip is to poach sausages in chicken stock for 10 minutes before putting them on the barbie so they’re…

Feed your curiosity FELICITY CLOAKE PORTRAIT: ALASTAIR LEVY The British Library’s 2021 Food Season kicks off this month with an appetising line-up of online events and talks, running 13 April to 26 May. Listen in on Madhur Jaffrey talking to Ravinder Bhogal (20 May) or Raymond Blanc regaling Felicity Cloake with stories about his life (1 May). Other highlights: writer Lindsey Bareham and delicious. favourite Georgina Hayden host a session on home cooking (17 April); Kate Young explores food in crime fiction (21 April); and food historian Pen Vogler, campaigner Dee Woods and writer Ruby Tandoh discuss food and class with BBC journalist Babita Sharma (27 April). Tickets from free to £7.50; find the full programme at bl.uk/events/food-season BREAK INTO RADIO *FEE DEPENDENT ON NATURE OF CONTENT Do you have…

Wild garlic, tarragon and mint roast chicken with lettuce and peas Serves 4-6 Hands-on time 20 min Oven time 1 hour 15 min Useful to have Probe thermometer KNOWHOW Find wild garlic in farmers’ markets and greengrocers or forage for it in season (see p50). Otherwise, mix 50g spinach with a few chopped chives and 2 crushed garlic cloves. • 60g butter, softened • ½ bunch wild garlic leaves, finely chopped (see Know-how) • 1 tbsp each fresh tarragon and mint leaves, finely chopped • 2kg free-range chicken, at room temperature • Steamed potatoes to serve For the lettuce and peas • 25g unsalted butter • 340g jar sweet silverskin pickled onions, drained • 300ml vegetable stock • 400g frozen peas • 2 baby gem lettuces, sliced • 2 tbsp crème fraîche • Small handful mint leaves, torn 1 Heat the oven…

It’s an independent review of the UK food system, with ideas on how to make it better. It was commissioned by the government and headed up by Henry Dimbleby, co-founder of the Leon chain of healthy fast food outlets. Part one of the review, published in summer 2020, looked at many of the issues exacerbated by Covid-19 and Brexit. Its recommendations include expanding eligibility for Free School Meals and increasing the value of Healthy Start Vouchers. Learn more at nationalfoodstrategy.org…

@FORAGED. BY.FERN Fern Freud’s photos of her West Sussex exploits include tapping birch sap, making chai from UK spices and crystallising primroses. She does walks and workshops too. foragedby fern.com @FAT.HEN. FORAGER Caroline Davey runs Fat Hen, a wild food cookery school in Cornwall. Her posts explore plants’ uses, properties and history. the-fat-hen. co.uk @CLAREMCQQ Fancy a forest fruit toastie? Northern Ireland-based Clare McQuillan’s feed and blog are intriguing. feastingon weeds. wordpress.com @MARKWILD FOOD Peek into the fascinating world of funghi, plants and seaweed with Galloway-based Mark Williams, who offers walks and webinars, with free info online. gallowaywild foods.com TONI HEATH/CUTTLEBONE.CO.UK…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Banana & miso pudding with miso caramel and custard Serves 9-12 Hands-on time 30 min Oven time 35-45 min You’ll also need Electric mixer; 20cm square baking dish/tin, greased MAKE AHEAD The cake will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for 3-4 days. Make the miso caramel up to a week in advance; chill until needed, then gently warm to make it pourable. KNOWHOW Saikyo miso, also sold as sweet rice miso, is the sweetest version of white miso. Buy it at Ocado or asiancookshop. co.uk. If you can’t find it, use any white miso (from Tesco and Waitrose) – you’ll need to use less as it’s saltier. If you prefer, leave out the miso altogether…

It began last March when I was frying onions and noticed I couldn’t smell a thing – not even a hint. I have an acute sense of smell usually so I was mystified, especially as I didn’t have a cold. After I tasted the dish to season it, still nothing. The only taste sensation I had was when sipping red wine, which was more to do with the effect of the tannins on the mouth than because I was noting any flavour. At the time, loss of smell and taste wasn’t a recognised side-effect of coronavirus and it wasn’t until a week or so later that I heard on the news that anosmia was being added to the list of official symptoms. I remember looking up in surprise: clearly I’d…

Food products that claim to boost or support the immune system are booming, from coffee and tea to cereals and snack bars. It’s no surprise, really. At a time of heightened concerns about infection and illness, we all want to reduce the risk of getting sick. But can specific foods help us do this? And are these products actually good for us? Food companies certainly want us to think so. The words used on packaging and websites suggest products confer health benefits, although exactly what those are is usually unclear. One mushroom-infused coffee, for example, claims to ‘boost health and immunity’, while a well-known breakfast cereal simply carries the words ‘immune support’ in large lettering on the box. There’s even a popular brand of tea bags called Plus Immunity. Sometimes…

The master recipe Makes 8 half potatoes (to serve 4-8) Hands-on time around 10 min Oven time around 1 hour 15 min PHOTOGRAPHS: LAURA EDWARDS. FOOD STYLING: LISA HARRISON. STYLING: TABITHA HAWKINS.PORTRAIT: LAURA EDWARDS. ILLUSTRATIONS: YIFEI FANG/GETTY IMAGES MAKE AHEAD We suggest baking, filling and chilling the potatoes the night before, then warming them through half an hour before you’re ready to eat. To reheat the filled potatoes, cook at 200ºC fan/gas 7 for 30 minutes – cover with foil if the tops are getting too brown. SCALE UP OR DOWN Each topping recipe makes enough to fill 4 potatoes (8 halves), but the quantities are simple to halve or even quarter to serve fewer people. • 4 large baking potatoes • 2 tbsp milk • Knob of butter • Topping of your choice…

RECIPE: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: NASSIMA ROTHACKER. FOOD STYLING: KATY McCLELLAND. STYLIING: LUIS PERAL “A home is a place where a pot of fresh soup simmers gently on the hob, filling the kitchen with soft aromas and filling your heart, and later your tummy, with joy”KEITH FLOYD VEGAN RECIPE Veg drawer minestrone Makes 4 portions Hands-on time 20 min Simmering time 10-13 min MAKE AHEAD Make the soup to the end of step 2, then cool and freeze in portions/bags for up to 3 months. Defrost, then reheat until piping hot and add the fresh herbs before serving. DON’T WASTE IT Not a vegetarian? Add a parmesan rind to the stock if you have one – it will add depth of flavour. This is a good recipe for using up the…

Soft goat’s cheese p88 • Goat’s cheese dressing Whisk 4 tbsp soft goat’s cheese with 2 tbsp crème fraîche, 1 tbsp finely chopped soft herbs (chives, mint, basil, tarragon...), a squeeze of lemon juice and 1-2 tbsp water. Add salt and pepper and drizzle over salads, grilled fish or roast veg. • Cheeseboard toastie Butter 2 slices of crusty white bread. With the buttered sides facing out, make a sandwich using 4 tbsp soft goat’s cheese, 2 tbsp fig jam (or conserve) and 4 prosciutto slices. Fry on a medium heat for 3-4 minutes on each side until the bread is crisp and golden and the cheese is oozy. • Cheese and olive straws Heat the oven to 180ºC fan/gas 6. Spread 1 ready rolled puff pastry sheet with 2 tbsp soft goat’s…

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES “On the face of it, it’s the simplest of ideas: flour, eggs, salt and milk (and often water), whisked to make a batter, then poured into a pan and baked. The result is puffs of baked batter, still slightly soft in the middle, with a crisp, golden exterior. But as is often the case with simple things, there’s more to it than meets the eye…” Food writer (and self-confessed food obsessive) Lucas Hollweg Lucas’s proper puffy yorkies Makes 12 individual puddings or 1 large one Hands-on time 15 min Oven time 15-25 min, plus resting and heating the tin You’ll also need 12-hole Yorkshire pudding or muffin tin, or a medium roasting tin (for 1 large pudding) “There are versions using fewer eggs, extra egg yolks or…

The expert guide to... CANNED DRINKS It’s hard to miss the growing trend for canned wines and cocktails, with so many tins gleaming and glinting at us on the shelves. It’s about time, as there are many benefits to buying drinks in cans. Convenience, for one, because cans are so portable (spring hikes and picnics beckon…) and eco credentials for another – a can is much lighter than glass to transport and infinitely recyclable once finished. A can might also mean less waste if you only want one drink without opening a whole bottle, and it does away with the need for a corkscrew. You might even dispense with a glass, though I tend to pour my canned drinks into one anyway, perhaps through force of habit and perhaps because…

Your buying choices make a difference 1 Quality flour in the post Award-winning Matthews Cotswold Flour is no ordinary mill. For a start, the family business dates back to the 1800s. Plus, alongside regular flours they sell more unusual bags, such as Cotswold Crunch (a mix of strong white, malt and malted wheat flakes), Eight Grain (full of grains and seeds) and excellent Dark Rye. For inspiration and recipes, follow @cotswoldflour on Instagram. From £1.80 for 1.5kg plain flour (minimum order 5 bags); fwpmatthews.co.uk 2 One-stop-shop for Welsh treats Check out Discover Delicious (no, not this one), a virtual farmers’ market for Welsh food. Look out for Caws Cenarth brie, Calon Wen organic butter and – my weakness – Welsh cakes from MamGu. There is a downside: you pay shipping…

You’d think that, with a top national food award under its belt, urban honey producer Bermondsey Street Bees would be increasing its number of hives and making the golden stuff while the sun shines – but not so. This is a company that cares so deeply about sustainability, it recently reduced its hive numbers by 30%. LONDON IS BUZZING London has more honeybees than any other city in Europe The reason, says co-founder Dale Gibson, is that urban beekeeping has become too fashionable. And despite the UK’s dwindling bee population, an increase in hive numbers isn’t necessarily a good thing. “As beekeepers,” says Dale, “we have to provide food for our ‘livestock’, but London is now the most densely populated city in Europe for honeybees, putting increasing pressure on the…

Great recipes are at the heart of delicious. and editor Karen, food ed Jen and the rest of the team love to see what you’re cooking and hear what you think of the recipes. But did you know you can win prizes for your pictures? Cook any recipe from our April issue and share it with us this month for a chance to win two handy pieces of kitchen kit (see right) This month’s winner Sonia Gosbee’s battenberg Sonia wins a luxury London hotel stay for two worth £1,500  Jen says “It was battle of the battenbergs for top spot this month. This was a tricky bake to get right and it was hard to choose a winner as all the entries were well executed. Sonia: your bake is shaped…

PHOTOGRAPHS: HANNAH ROSE HUGHES. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON “Many of us have run the whole gamut, from sourdough for breakfast to Haribo Sour Suckers for dinner. Don’t judge me” It’s been exhausting, hasn’t it? The trying not to get ill, and the worrying that those you love will get ill; holding down a job and home schooling; Couch-to-5k-ing and grocery shopping; craft project-ing and vegetable growing; the days of plucky cheerfulness and the ones of despair; the profound, gnawing missing of our peopled lives; the longing sometimes to be alone; the Netflixing, Zooming and Tik-Tok-ing; and in between all that, attempting somehow to feed ourselves three times a day, plus snacks – but not too many because at some point we are all going to have to…

Who’s behind the @? Cheese expert Emma Young is a writer, consultant, event host and cheesemonger who judges for various international cheese awards as well as the Great Taste Awards. What’s great about her feed? It’s peppered with fascinating cheese facts, insights from Emma’s visits to cheesemakers, recommendations and plenty of seductively oozing specimens. Her zeal is infectious, the sense of wonder (and humour) in her captions a joy.…

“I love to use dorset blue vinny in this tart but any strong blue cheese will work as it combines beautifully with leeks, which are one of my favourite vegetables. I used to make hundreds of these tarts before I joined River Cottage, and they continued to prove popular at our seasonal feasts — fingers crossed we can enjoy another one soon...” VEGGIE RECIPE Poached leek and blue cheese tart Serves 8 Hands-on time 15 min, plus chilling Oven time About 50 min Simmering time 10-12 min You’ll also need Deep 20cm loose-based tart tin MAKE AHEAD Make the pastry (step 1) up to 2 days ahead and keep wrapped in the fridge. DON'T WASTE IT Lightly whisk the unused egg whites, then label and freeze to use in another…

1 Donate to the Trussell Trust, Fareshare or your local food bank. 2 Volunteer at your nearest Community Larder or help to set one up. 3 Buy British produce in season. If you can’t see it on the supermarket shelves, write to them to ask why. 4 Sign up to a subscription service from your favourite restaurant or coffee shop. 5 ‘Grow a row’ If you have a veg patch or allotment, could you grow an extra row of veg this summer to donate to a food bank or community larder? 6 Cut down on food waste. Brits wasted a third less food during lockdown but we still chuck out 4.5 million tonnes a year. Plan your meals, make the most of your freezer or list in-date food you can’t…

RECIPES: YASMIN KHANPHOTOGRAPHS: MATT RUSSELL STYLING: ROSIE REYNOLDS “For thousands of years, the Eastern Mediterranean has bridged cultures and continents through empire, trade and migration,” says Yasmin, who first visited the Eastern Mediterranean more than 30 years ago. Even then she was struck by its “warmth, hospitality, culture and cuisine” – qualities she recognised from her childhood in Iran. “To think of these countries is to conjure up images of cobalt blue skies and shimmering seas, sun-drenched islands filled with olive groves and citrus trees, and mezze-laden tables filled with crisp rings of calamari and cigarillos of rice-stuffed vine leaves, all washed down with fiery anise spirits that make you cough and splutter. It’s a place where family is central, tradition is honoured, myths are revered and meals are meant…

“This is a labour of love but it’s so worth it… Our lardy bun is a contemporary take on a British classic and has become a firm favourite at our bakery-restaurant Flor. We combine the rich flavours of a mace caramel and pork lard with the lightness of a croissant dough — and no ordinary croissant dough at that. We add einkorn flour (an ancient variety of wheat) into the dough for extra flavour, then laminate it using cultured British butter. The buns represent our mission to use the best British produce, support favourite millers and farmers and create pastries with a memorable flavour.” HELEN EVANS, HEAD OF BREAD & PASTRY THE FLOR STORY.  In the heart of London’s Borough Market, Flor was set up by the team behind Lyle’s…

1 Luiza Holub makes lino prints in her Sheffield studio and sells digital versions for just £10 – great value. 2 Handwoven by artisans in Ghana, this beautiful basket will make an occasion of that long-awaited picnic. 3 This 500ml jug is so tactile you’ll be making more salad dressings as an excuse to use it. 4 They’re bang on trend and each is unique. Pass the fizzy water... 5 Still working at the dining room table? Transform it back to a dinner destination with a linen runner and buttercup-embroidered napkins. 6 Handmade by Karin Hossack (mum of food blogger Izy), this butter dish is crying out for a pat of posh cultured butter. 7 Meet the breakfast serving plate you didn’t know you needed… With an oblong, rustic appeal,…

Pollen & Grace Moroccan Chickpea Immunity Box Chickpeas, roasted carrots, quinoa, rocket and kale in a spiced turmeric dressing. Available from Ocado. Kerry’s verdict This supplies a third of your daily fibre, as well as immune-smart ingredients like roasted carrots (cooking aids absorption of beta-carotene) and olive oil, which is loaded with anti-inflammatory compounds called polyphenols. If you’re eating ‘on the run’ this is a good choice, but better still, prepare your own and minimise the risk of nutrient loss during storage. PG Tips Plus Immunity Black tea ‘with Vitamin C, which supports the normal function of the immune system’. Available from Waitrose and Ocado. Kerry’s verdict Tea is rich in immune-regulating compounds, so your morning cuppa is a useful support, especially if you drink it black. But studies suggest…

The hero Soy sauce This dark liquid delivers a generous hit of umami (savoury), salty flavour, boosted here with fresh lemon and sesame seeds. 1 Salmon and avocado rice bowl with soy & lemon dressing Serves 2 Hands-on time 20 min You’ll also need Steamer pan or basket EASY SWAPS Instead of salmon use prawns, or use roasted butternut squash for a veggie bowl. SCALE IT UP Double the quantities of the ingredients to feed four people. • 4½ tbsp soy sauce • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 2 sustainable salmon fillets, skinned • 200g tenderstem broccoli, trimmed • 2 tbsp mixed seeds of your choice • ½ tbsp honey • 250g pack Tilda steamed wholegrain basmati and wild rice, or similar • 1 ripe avocado, roughly chopped • 4 mini cucumbers, sliced (or ¼ regular cucumber,…

1 If you don’t have any fresh herbs to hand, swirl in a good dollop of pesto from a jar or tub at the end of the recipe to instantly boost the flavour of the minestrone. 2 If you’re on a gluten-free diet you can replace the pasta with a gluten-free alternative – or swap the pasta for tinned beans or a pack of ready-cooked lentils. You’ll need to reduce the stock to around 500-600ml. 3 Use up any root vegetables – potatoes, turnips, swede, parsnips, jerusalem artichokes – you have handy: chop into cubes, then cook them with the onion/leeks and carrots. When they’re in season you could add diced chunks of squash too. 4 Add a North African flavour by stirring in 1 tsp ras el hanout spice…

RECIPE: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Naked fish burgers Serves 1 Hands-on time 25 min MAKE AHEAD Make the burgers up to a day ahead, then cover and chill. Or freeze, wrapped, for up to a month (check the fish wasn’t frozen before). Defrost, then continue from step 2. SCALE IT UP Double or triple the quantities to make more burgers as required. • 200g sustainable white fish fillet, finely chopped • 1 tbsp cornflour • Finely grated zest and juice ½ lemon, plus wedges to serve • 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley, plus extra to serve • 1 tbsp capers, coarsely chopped • Spray oil • 25g cucumber, cut into ribbons (easiest to use a Y-peeler) • 3 little gem lettuce leaves 1 Mix the fish with the cornflour, most…

23 British and Irish restaurants ...have won the first ever Michelin Green Star for sustainability. Winners include Silo in London, Restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham and Inver in Strachur, Scotland. Add one to your must-visit list for when restaurants finally reopen. CLINGING ON? If you’re finding it hard to give up cling film, Lakeland has the answer. Its new compostable version is made from a polyester film ‘derived from fossil origin’ that you can throw into your food waste or on your compost heap, where it should biodegrade within 12 months. You can’t use it in the microwave or freezer, but texture and stickiness-wise it’s indistinguishable from the regular stuff. I’ve been using it in lunchboxes and to cover leftovers in the fridge. Lakeland Compostable Perforated Cling Film, £3.99 for…

ROAST BOX FOR TWO FROM THE STAR & GARTER PUB IN FALMOUTH Tested by managing editor Les Dunn Ease of prep A cinch – it’s mostly done. Clear instructions? Yes – and they work (the beef timings were dead-on – I tested it with a thermometer). Even better is the handy 25-minute timeline. The taste Chef Elliot Thompson has worked at steakhouse kings Hawksmoor – and it shows. He lightly smokes a full flavoured, well aged piece of striploin, bigs up the chunky cauli cheese with umami and does duck fat roasties (yes, they come out crisp). The bone marrow gravy is out of the top drawer too. How much washing up? A couple of roasting tins and a small pan. Value for money Good; it fed a child too.…

Cooking is for everyone If we could get everyone in the world cooking we would. Food brings people together: families, friends, communities – it’s a JOY. We believe every child has the right to learn how to make proper nutritious meals – and to discover the fun and joy of cooking. You can trust us Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, at least twice, using domestic ovens and hobs, so you can be confident recipes work every time. When it comes to reviews, we only recommend stuff we rate and deem to be of good quality and worth the price tag. Keeping it simple Eating locally and seasonally, whenever you can, is a no-brainer. We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find…

*Tested against deep fried, hand-cut french fries. Make your favourite recipe from this month’s issue and you could win a Ninja 3-in-1 Food Processor and Foodi MAX Health Grill & Air Fryer, together worth £450. With one-touch controls, the Ninja 3-in-1 is a food processor, blender and smoothie maker all in one. The 1.8 litre food processor bowl tackles anything from bread dough to fishcakes, while the 2.1 litre blending jug is great for crushed-ice cocktails, sauces and dressings. You can also blend straight into the 700ml single-serve cup to enjoy a smoothie on the go. A powerful 1,200W motor drives the stainless steel blades, dough tool and slicing/grating disc. All parts are dishwasher safe. The Ninja Foodi MAX is a large capacity grill-oven with six functions, including roasting, dehydrating…

INTERVIEW: PHOEBE STONE. PORTRAIT: TOM MATTEY. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES I was nervous about changing from judge to presenter on Great British Menu, but I’m so glad I’ve done it. My relationship with the chefs is different. I already used to be a bit maternal with them. Now that I go through the whole week with them, by Friday evening I’m literally lying on the floor with exhaustion because my nerves are completely frayed! Books are a world of comfort to me and always have been. I just read The Girl with the Louding Voice by Abi Daré, which was brilliant. I generally have an audiobook and a book in hand… At the moment I’m reading Shuggie Bain by Douglas Stuart and listening to Zora Neale Hurston’s Their Eyes Were Watching…

VEGGIE RECIPE Herbed monkey bread Makes 1 loaf (serves 6-8) Hands-on time 25 min, plus resting, proving and cooling Oven time 40-45 min DON’T WASTE IT Lightly whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt/sugar, then freeze in a labelled bag for up to a month. • 350g white spelt flour, plus extra for dusting • ½ tsp salt • 5g fast-action dried yeast • 1 tsp granulated sugar • 150ml lukewarm milk • 2 medium free-range egg yolks (see Waste Saver) • 70g butter, softened and chopped For the herb butter • 75g butter, softened • 8 tbsp fresh flatleaf parsley • 2 tbsp chopped fresh oregano leaves • 3 tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves • 1-2 tbsp chopped fresh sage leaves • 3 garlic cloves, grated You’ll also need… • 900g loaf tin, greased with butter and dusted with flour 1…

Britain’s uneasy relationship with food has reached a crossroads. The Covid-19 crisis has exposed the fault lines in our food culture. During the first lockdown of 2020, the better-off baked sourdough and banana bread. Meanwhile, food bank use soared by 81%, according to The Trussell Trust, and more than five million UK families experienced food insecurity due to shortages in shops, loss of income or isolation. Empty supermarket shelves, lorries stacked up at Dover, disgraceful food parcels containing half a carrot and a yogurt tube to replace free school meals: some of the unshakeable images of the last year are those involving food. “The pandemic was a stress test for our food system. A sudden shock to supply chains showed where flexibility and responsiveness is lacking. Food insecurity, already a…

MAIN PHOTOGRAPH: ANDREW MONTGOMERY Our season-defining ravioli recipe is thrifty yet special, with a filling made from wonderful wild garlic – a great excuse to escape outside and forage for free food. If you’re not up for that, you can use a mix of spinach and garlic instead. As for the pasta, it’s so easy to buy that making it from scratch can seem a faff, but the joy is in the process. The ritual of resting, rolling and shaping results in a plate of food to relish with pride. Serve with our fancy garnishes or simply drizzle with oil and add a sprinkling of parmesan – your choice Food writer Lauren Bravo revels in foraging for the perfect partner for pasta, mash and more “I never used to understand…

Harold McGee is a food legend. He brought food science from the lab onto cooks’ bookshelves and inspired a generation of chefs. Many’s the obscure food debate in the pre-Covid delicious. office that was settled with, “I’ll see what McGee says.” In his latest book, Nose Dive, McGee takes a leap into the osmocosm – the universe of smells. Susan Low sniffed him out for a chat PORTRAIT: ELLIE SEKINE. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Every wondered how onions can go from off-puttingly pungent in their raw state to sweetly enticing when cooked? Or why fruit smells so come-hither? Did you know that eating lots of fenugreek can change your body odour, or that terpenoids, the molecules that give cannabis its distinctive whiff, can also be found in citrus peel? These are…

What’s good now Peas are just coming into season, so enjoy these sweet legumes for their flavour and health benefits. They’re high in protein, full of fibre and a particularly good source of iron and B vitamins. MILK-DRINKING MUMS MAY HAVE ALLERGY-FREE CHILDREN Scientists are discovering new ways to reduce a child’s risk of developing food allergies – and it starts young. In a Swedish study published in the scientific journal Nutrients , researchers found children of mothers who drank more cow’s milk during the period they were breastfeeding were less likely to develop food allergies. One theory is that the cow’s milk in the mothers’ diet contains substances that stimulate the development of the immune system. Further studies are needed, however, to work out exactly how and why. The…

The heady smell of the soil (especially after rain) and the pleasure of running it through your fingers. The purposeful focus of digging, weeding and planting. Or simply watching a seed sprout and push its way through the soil into the light. These are all sensual, joyful distractions from your deskbound toil. Doing a bit of weeding, pruning or planting-up of pots in your lunchbreak could do wonders for your state of mind. And that’s official: “Many more people garden than we think, and it appears the activity is associated with higher levels of happiness, similar to walking and biking,” says Princeton University’s Dr Anu Ramaswami. She recently co-authored a study into the emotional benefits of home gardening, and participants ranked it among the top five meaningful leisure activities. “In…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Salted caramel loaf cake Serves 8-10 Hands-on time 25 min, plus cooling Oven time 50 min You’ll also need Electric mixer; 900g loaf tin, fully lined with compostable baking paper MAKE AHEAD Wrap the sponge and freeze for up to 1 month. Defrost, then ice. EASY SWAPS If you can’t find the Mix ’n’ Bake pack, use 120g mixed sultanas, nuts, toffee pieces and choc chips. • 175g butter, softened • 175g golden caster sugar • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 3 large free-range eggs • 175g self-raising flour • 120g pack Whitworths Mix ’n’ Bake choc salted caramel pieces (see Easy Swaps) • 250g salted caramel (from a jar – available from large supermarkets) • 200g full-fat cream cheese (we used Philadelphia) • 100g soft brown…

MAIN RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: TROY WILLIS. OTHER RECIPES: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: NASSIMA ROTHACKER. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR Serves 1 Hands-on time 15 min You’ll also need 15cm grill-safe frying pan • ½ bunch asparagus (about 200g) • 3 medium free-range eggs, separated • 10g parmesan, finely grated, plus extra to serve • 15g unsalted butter • 70g leftover roast chicken, shredded • 20g gruyère or extra-mature cheddar, finely grated • Watercress to serve (optional) 1 Heat the grill to hot. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil, cook the asparagus for 2 minutes, then drain and refresh under cold water. Slice in half lengthways, then set aside. 2 Whisk the egg yolks in a large bowl with the parmesan and a pinch of salt. Put the egg whites in a separate large clean bowl and…

THE GADGET TEST A perfect frying pan I have a cast-iron pan for pancakes, but this dinky 20cm stainless steel pan with an aluminium core from Samuel Groves is my new favourite for making scrambled eggs, omelettes or simply melting butter for sauces – like the saffron butter on p54 and chilli butter for the Turkish eggs on p66. It washes up easily (don’t you hate scrubbing scrambled eggs off supposedly non-stick pans?) and the design is sturdy enough not to wobble on the stove. The pan has great heat conductivity and can be popped under the grill or in the oven like an American-style skillet… Ideal for making the leftovers soufflé omelette on p104. How much? £50, samuelgroves.com, John Lewis and Selfridges Verdict A versatile, good looking pan –…

1. Bullards Coastal Gin Extremely drinkable, with the added environmental cred of recyclable pouches to refill your bottle once empty. Flavour profile There’s a hint of medicinal salinity to the notes in this gin – ozone in a gin bottle – thanks to the Norfolk coast botanicals of sea purslane, Douglas fir and samphire. Best for… a G&T with Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic. 40% ABV; £40 for 70cl (refill pouches £35), bullardsspirits.co.uk 2. Canaïma Gin Made from 19 botanicals, 10 of which are sourced in the Amazon by local communities. The company makes the assurance that 10% of sales will contribute towards conservation of the Amazon and its indigenous peoples. Flavour profile Fresh, fruity, floral. Best for… a G&T with a splash of grapefruit juice, garnished with a zesty wedge of…

There’s something seasonably agreeable about serving ewe’s milk cheese after a spring Sunday roast. Manchego, pecorino and roquefort are all Continental classics, but there’s also a new generation of British sheep’s cheeses that deserve a place on our cheeseboards at this time of year. AGED TO PERFECTION Corra linn is made by Errington Cheese near Edinburgh, using raw milk from Lacaune sheep (the breed used for roquefort). A hard, aged cheese, it’s a serial winner at the World Cheese Awards. It was developed by cheesemaker Selina Cairns as a way to store the glut of rich and creamy milk that comes in the spring. While the maturing time for Errington’s flagship lanark blue is counted in months, corra linn can be aged for a year or even two. This was…

What’s good about it This is a partnership of Beeswax Dyson Farming (founder James Dyson – yes, the inventor) and renowned artisans CJ Butchers. Their aim is to unite cooks who care about high-welfare, top-notch lamb and beef. The quality was excellent – some of the most tender beef I’ve ever tried. The USP Every box includes an unusual cut to help minimise food waste and use the whole of the animal. You also receive cooking advice from chefs. Sustainability creds Acre & Apron says its farm is carbon neutral, the packaging recyclable and the food miles from farm to butchery some of the lowest around. Price Small beef box £45, plus minimum £5.95 delivery. acreandapron.co.uk…

Our symbols explained Recipes you might expect to contain gluten or dairy but don’t. Indicates you can freeze all or most of the recipe. Unless stated, freeze the finished dish for up to 3 months. Defrost and heat until piping hot. Vegetarian Vegan Prep and cooking times All our timings include prep. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring or frying. Oven/ simmering time is when you can leave the dish in the oven or on the hob. Nutritional information Recipes are analysed for nutritional content by an expert nutritionist. Calculations may vary, depending on the ingredients, and include listed ingredients only. Our suppliers Fresh eggs for our test kitchen are supplied by Clarence Court (clarencecourt.co.uk) and meat is from The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk). Prices Are correct at time of…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE The unashamedly self-indulgent fry-up sarnie Serves 1 Hands-on time 20 min FLAVOUR BOOST See our beetroot ketchup recipe in Jen’s Kitchen • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2-3 outdoor-reared British back bacon rashers • 1 large free-range egg • 2 slices brioche bread, toasted • 2-3 tbsp beetroot ketchup or other ketchup/brown sauce (see Flavour Boost) • 50g cooked beetroot, grated 1 Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a small frying pan. Fry the bacon over a medium heat, turning occasionally, until cooked to your liking. Drain on kitchen paper and keep warm. 2 Increase the heat to high, add the remaining 1 tbsp oil to the pan and fry the egg for 2-3 minutes (for a runny yolk). 3 To assemble, spread…