Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2020 i Delicious UK

PORTRAIT: TREVOR LEIGHTON. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT There are so many conflicting pulls on our emotions and sensibilities at this time of year, aren’t there? It seems to me 2019 was the year the world woke up to the need to do things differently – and 2020 is the year to do something about it. It’s unusual to meet anyone who isn’t thinking hard about how they can live a planet-friendlier life. The challenge is to find the sweet spot where we’re making wiser choices, yet still enjoying the food we cook and eat, and delicious. aims to help you do that. For starters, writer Katy Salter took on the challenge of banishing plastic from her kitchen, and discovered it’s way harder than she imagined. You can read about her experiences…

THE MOST POPULAR RECIPE ON DELICIOUSMAGAZINE.CO.UK  IN JANUARY 2019 Sweet potato and chickpea curry – what will it be this year? 30,989 views POPULAR ON INSTAGRAM Polenta, balsamic vinegar and garlic roast potatoes z 6,454 likes TOP ON PINTEREST Butternut squash, spinach and goat’s cheese pie 1,788 pins See what other delicious. fans are talking about at facebook.com/ deliciousmagazineuk Follow us at twitter.com/ deliciousmag Follow us at instagram. com/deliciousmag Follow us on pinterest. co.uk/deliciousmaguk…

ADOPT THE RIGHT MINDSET Be selfish and say no to going places and eating foods that won’t help you achieve your goals. DON’T FALL INTO THE TRAP OF FEELING GUILTY about using shortcut ingredients such as pre-cooked rice and grains. Just make the curry to go with them instead of ordering a takeaway. IF YOU’RE READY TO MAKE SOME REAL CHANGES TO YOUR DIET AND LIFESTYLE , tell your friends and family what you’re doing and that you need their support.…

If you watch as much schlocky television as I do (sometimes while eating dinner, ssshhhh), you know how essential the dining room, specifically the dining table, is to taut family dramas. But in an era of high property prices, dining rooms are heading the way of the boot room and the butler’s pantry. They will soon be the preserve of the ultra-rich, somewhere to polish your canary yellow diamond collection and entertain the dowager grandma from whom you hope to inherit everything. Apparently only half of Brits now consider a dining room a necessity, and among those of us who have one, 65 per cent use them for other purposes as well as dining (which makes me wonder what kind of la-di-Downton lives the other 35 per cent are leading).…

• Wild game will soon be out of season so make the most of it while you can – make game stews, pies and roasts the order of the day. • Purple sprouting broccoli, one of my favourite winter greens, thrives in the depths of winter – in fact, the colder it gets the sweeter the broccoli becomes. In January it’s perfect. • Jerusalem artichokes are being dug right now. This tuber, a member of the sunflower family, is wonderful in soups, salads and roasted as a side dish. It’s particularly good with firm white fish, such as brill or turbot. • Brussels sprout tops, the flowering heads of the plant, are a perk around this time. Cook them as you would kale or cabbage and serve with lots of…

The UK Plastics Pact is a joint initiative between the UK Government, NGOs and major food businesses. The Pact aims to make 100 per cent of packaging reusable, recyclable or compostable by 2025. “The UK Plastics Pact will generate a fundamental change in the way we design, produce, use, reuse, dispose of and recycle plastics. The Pact’s members are responsible for 85 per cent of plastic packaging sold through UK supermarkets,” explains Helen Bird, plastics expert at WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme). “Through the Pact, we’re targeting single-use plastics that are problematic and/or unnecessary,” says Bird. This includes plans to eliminate eight types of single-use plastic by the end of 2020, including straws, disposable cutlery, drink stirrers and polystyrene packaging.…

I was a restaurant critic and mother of two young boys when I first met Elizabeth David in the early 1980s. It was Boxing Day evening and, because my mum was staying with us for Christmas, my husband and I were able to sneak out for a meal at Phoenicia, a favourite Lebanese restaurant in Kensington. I’d got to know the owner, Hani Khalife, and his family so when we arrived I was greeted with the news that there was another food writer in the restaurant that evening. “Elizabeth Davis,” he said. “Do you mean Elizabeth David?” “Oh yes, that’s right,” he replied. “She’s over there with two other women. Would you like me to introduce you?” I couldn’t believe my ears or my luck but felt far too shy…

• Meat trimmings from the steak and kidney • 1 onion, halved • 570ml water • 1 tsp beef dripping • 1 heaped dessertspoon flour • A few drops Worcestershire sauce • Salt and freshly milled black pepper METHOD Simply place the meat trimmings in a saucepan with half the onion, cover with the water, add some seasoning and simmer for approximately 1 hour. Then strain the stock and in the same pan fry the remaining onion, chopped small, in the beef dripping until soft and blackened at the edges. Then stir in the flour, gradually add the stock little by little to make a smooth gravy, adding a spot of gravy browning if it’s needed. Taste to check the seasoning and add a few drops of Worcestershire sauce.…

BOUFFAGE Old French for a grand feast KUMMERSPECK ‘Grief bacon’ or weight gained through emotional overeating (German) MATRO The silence while eating a meal, especially a fish dish (Norwegian) PLOV Traditional Uzbek rice dish, emblematic of the warm hospitality and kinship the locals extend to strangers SKIRLIE Scots Gaelic for oats that get skirled round the pan (thanks to food writer Rachel McCormack for this one) SOBREMESA Table talk and discussions that take place after a meal (Spanish) TZIMMES Pronounced ‘seemez’, it’s Yiddish for a fuss. It’s also a dish of root veg stewed with prunes or other dried fruit…

“The Chinese New Year celebration was the biggest holiday in my family. We’d pay the traditional homage to our ancestors by burning incense at the small family altar that stood at one end of the living room. My job was to rub honey or sugar water over the kitchen god poster on the kitchen wall so he could report only sweet and good things to the Jade Emperor in heaven. Then the New Year’s food preparation would begin. At the New Year table, certain foods were always served because they symbolise particular good and noteworthy aspirations. Fish, which represents abundance and good fortune, was essential. Chicken, a symbol of fortune, was served because what good are abundance and good fortune without the time to enjoy them? My mother, being a…

If you’re teetotal, keen to discover the wonderful world of fermented drinks, wanting to expand your smoothie repertoire or simply aiming to have more alcohol-free days each week, Fiona Beckett’s new book holds plentiful appeal. It’s a guide to the best in soft drinks – from kombucha to cordials, smoothies to shrubs – and includes recipes for creative wintry drinks such as mulled alcohol-free cider with roast apples. Beckett delivers an especially tempting set of non-alcoholic cocktail recipes and the photography, by Nassima Rothacker, is beautiful. It’s the book all non-boozers (temporary or otherwise) have been waiting for. How to Drink Without Drinking by Fiona Beckett, Kyle Books £15.99…

Cook your favourite recipe from this month’s issue and you could win a hand-picked selection from Shekåbba The Danish Home to complement your cooking skills. Shekåbba sources pieces exclusively from talented Danish designers, bringing natural warmth to your home with vintage shades and quality materials. This specially chosen selection** includes everything you need to set a sophisticated table: four Ella mugs and an Ella mini milk jug, four Sand Jazz dinner plates, four Topaz Jazz cereal bowls, four Aubergine poke bowls, a pair of Kidron salad servers, a 16-piece set of Aime Aarhus cutlery and a set of four Saar Pecan napkins, plus a pair of mangowood Pillar candle holders and two Petite Rose candles. See the full range at shekabba.com FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make any recipe from…

CITRUS FRUIT Looking like little spheres of sunshine in the winter gloom, oranges and mandarins (tangerines, clementines and satsumas) are sweet and juicy right now, so enjoy these nutritious fruit while you can. They’re bursting with vitamin C: one medium orange provides more than the recommended daily intake. Oranges also contain health-promoting plant compounds called flavanones, as well as fibre and useful amounts of B vitamins and minerals. How to enjoy Make a perky salad of orange segments and watercress as a counterpoint to hearty winter stews and roasts. Or peel and chop into large chunks and roast alongside root vegetables – oranges pair beautifully with sweet potatoes, beetroot and swede. Don’t forget bitter seville oranges – they’re not just for marmalade. Try using their highly scented juice in place…

The recipe SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 20-30 MIN, OVEN TIME 3 HOURS 45 MIN, PLUS RESTING MAKE AHEAD Assemble the lasagne up to a day ahead, cover and chill. Take out of the fridge and bring to room temperature before baking. Freeze for up to a month in 1 large or 2-3 smaller freezerproof containers. • 250g fresh lasagne sheets FOR THE RAGÙ SAUCE • 20g butter • 100g smoked diced pancetta (or British free-range chopped streaky bacon) • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 carrot, finely chopped • 2 celery sticks, finely chopped • 2 fat garlic cloves, crushed • 200g British beef or veal mince • 200g British free-range pork mince • 200ml whole milk • Fresh nutmeg for grating • 175ml dry white…

1 THE RIGHT BREAD Choose a quality thick-cut white tin loaf. A bouncy crust is preferable as it will hit optimum crunch level as it cooks. 2 DOUBLE BUTTER You need a good layer on both sides of the bread to ensure a soft, buttery interior and a crisp, golden exterior. 3 THREE CHEESES (IS THE MAGIC NUMBER) Each cheese brings something different. Cheddar gives punch, gruyère brings stringy sweetness and cooking mozzarella creates competition-level ooze. 4 PATIENCE Cooking over a medium heat takes longer than cooking on high, but you’ll be rewarded with an even melt and a deep golden exterior. 5 PRESSING A gentle but firm press with a wide spatula secures the elements (vital for structural integrity), creates an even crust and helps a bit of cheese…

MEET OUR FOOD TEAM AT YOUR SERVICE We test every recipe in our kitchen, and the tips we know and discover are what you see showcased in these pages. If you’d like to put a question to the team, email readers@ delicious magazine.co.uk GRATE TIP! PORTRAIT OF LUCAS: TARA FISHER. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER.OTHER PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Don’t waste time finely chopping garlic, ginger and chilli for curry bases or marinades. Use a good grater instead (we like the Microplane, available from lakeland.co.uk) and grate everything straight into the pan or bowl. If there are leftovers, whizz into a purée, then freeze in ice cube trays to add straight to curries, stir-fries or soups. THE FOOD HACK Never put up with lumpy mash again. Tip the cooked potatoes,…

Daunted by fish prep? This new series is designed to boost your confidence. CJ Jackson (left) is the Shellfish UK ambassador and principal of The Seafood School at Billingsgate (seafoodtraining. org) where she teaches how to prepare and cook fish. You can use this month’s technique for any similar shaped fish (such as trout, bream and mackerel). Or, if you want to cook a whole sea bass, see p35 for Gill Meller’s recipe. PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS: ANDRE PATTENDEN, DAVID CHARBIT, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES 1 Using kitchen scissors, snip off all the fins down to the body – cut from the tail towards the head. 2 Using a fish scaler or back of the knife (again from tail to head), scrape off all the scales. You might want to do this in…

JANUARY PALERMO, SICILY Sicily is Italian in name only. Two millennia of culinary influences from Andalucia, Anatolia and North Africa have resulted in unpronounceable dishes such as sfinci (ricotta fritters) and ’mpanatigghi (sweet pastries stuffed with spiced beef). WHY NOW? Local residents, or Palermitani, celebrate Epiphany (6 January) with food rich in symbolism. Eating lentils brings wealth, while giuggiulena, a type of sesame-seed nougat, is proffered to children. Still peckish? In Palermo it’s permissible to eat brioche con gelato (ice cream sandwiches) for breakfast. MUST-TRY FOOD Street stalls near the Mercato 00 Ballarò make use of its seasonal oranges and fish. Sample involtini di pesce spada (swordfish rolls), pane e panelle (chickpea fritter sandwiches) and sfincione (thick-crust pizzas). WHERE TO STAY The apartments at Butera 28 (butera28.it; from €120 per…

Crispy creamy Boursin mushrooms SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN, OVEN TIME 15-20 MIN Heat the oven to 210°C/190°C fan/gas 6½. Mix 150g Garlic & Herbs Boursin with 2-3 tbsp milk, then spread evenly onto the stalk sides of 4 large portobello mushrooms. Put the mushrooms on a baking sheet, then sprinkle with 3 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs and 3 tbsp grated emmental cheese. Bake for 15-20 minutes until cooked through, golden and oozing. Serve sprinkled with chopped fresh flatleaf parsley. PER SERVING 249kcals, 19.1g fat (12.5g saturated), 9.1g protein, 9.7g carbs (1.7g sugars), 0.8g salt, 0.5g fibre RECIPE SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH PHOTOGRAPH TOBY SCOTT FOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOE STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE…

Known as the staff of life, a loaf of bread is a symbol of sufficiency and community – qualities key to the special charity started by John Lister, owner of organic flour producer Shipton Mill. In 2016 he launched a pilot scheme called Breadwinners, giving people from marginalised groups the basic tools to set up their own bread delivery business and earn an income: a bike, a trailer and partnership with a local organic bakery. THE MISSION Today, Breadwinners supports people with official refugee status, who have the right to work in the UK, to become managers of a bread stall at one of six farmers’ markets in London. People work part-time on a self-employed basis, earning a living wage, and the bread they sell comes at cost price from…

Lamb one-pot with herby dumplings SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 3 HOURS MAKE AHEAD The stew will keep for up to 3 days in an airtight container in the fridge, or in the freezer for up to 3 months (without the dumplings). Defrost in the fridge overnight, then reheat in the oven until piping hot. Make the dumplings fresh and cook as in the recipe. • 1½ tbsp vegetable oil, plus an extra splash • 900g-1kg boneless British lamb shoulder, cut into 3cm chunks • 300ml red wine • Knob of butter • 1 medium onion, chopped • 2 carrots, chopped • 2 celery sticks, chopped • 2 parsnips, chopped • 4 garlic cloves, chopped • 2 tbsp tomato purée • 3 tbsp plain flour • 500ml…

“There’s an escalating debate about vegetables and meat, and whether we need to change our approach to what has prominence on our dinner plates. I believe that if we stop and consider for a few moments, it’s clear veg and meat both deserve an equal measure of care, consideration and respect. Both hold value. In this menu I set out to champion modest, seasonal veg – and my tips will help you minimise food waste in your kitchen.” TRISTAN’S VEGGIE MENU FOR SIX Leek cappuccino soup Peppered mushroom steaks with buttered spinach Slow-baked vegetable ‘lasagne’ Chargrilled chicory and cabbage salad Duke of Cambridge tart PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH STYLING SARAH BIRKS Leek cappuccino soup SERVES 6 AS A STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN…

• Reusable produce bags are on sale at supermarkets including SAINSBURY’S and LIDL • You can BYO containers to the in-store meat and fish counters at MORRISONS and SAINSBURY’S • ALDI is trialling both paper and compostable bags across its stores and has also switched from polystyrene to cardboard discs in its pizza boxes – a move that’s saved 180 tonnes of plastic • WAITROSE is removing plastic wrap from packs of canned vegetables and has removed unrecyclable black plastic from its own-brand products • TESCO has put an end to the use of hard-to-recycle materials in its own packaging • ASDA has removed single-use carrier bags from in-store and home deliveries, a saving of 375 million bags per year • MORRISONS no longer sells 5p carrier bags…

Poulet antiboise Slice 2lb of onions and put them into a deep casserole with a half-tumbler of olive oil, a little salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper. On top of the onions place a cleaned chicken seasoned with salt and pepper. Cover the casserole and cook very gently in the oven for about an hour and a half. The onions must not brown, but melt gradually almost to a purée, as in a pissaladina. Add a little more oil during cooking if necessary. When the chicken is tender, carve it into pieces and serve on a dish with the onions all round, garnished with a few stoned black olives and squares of bread, fried in oil. If the chicken is of the elderly, boiling variety, it can be cut…

“In a typical Mexican home, life revolves around food. For my family, food is synonymous with love. Everyone was a good cook but it was my dad, Martin, who planted the seed of my love of cooking. He was always in the kitchen and I have fond memories of him asking me to help him chop vegetables or fry something. Ensenada fish tacos are named after the port city where I grew up and were created by a taco seller there. In the city, every family has its own variation. My family’s version has been with us for a long time and it’s special to me, as my father wrote the recipe in my diary before I came to London 17 years ago. He said: ‘Now you can cook proper…

• Amélie (2001) French • Amarcord (1973) Italian • Babette’s Feast (1987) Danish/French/Swedish • Cinema Paradiso (1988) Italian • Delicatessen (1991) French • Good Bye Lenin! (2003) German • The Great Beauty (2013) Italian • In the Mood for Love (2000) Cantonese • Le Dîner de Cons (1998) French • Pan’s Labyrinth (2006) Spanish • Persona (1966) Swedish • Solaris (1972) Russian/German • Tampopo (1985) Japanese • Together (2001) Swedish…

Chicken balmoral SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 15-18 MIN MAKE AHEAD Prepare the chicken up to the end of step 1, cover and chill up to a day ahead. KNOWHOW Chicken supremes are chicken breasts with the fillet and upper wing bone still attached. They’re available from good butchers. If you can’t find them, use large skin-on chicken breasts instead • 4 free-range chicken supremes or large skin-on chicken breasts (see Know-how) • 100g haggis • 1 tsp freshly picked thyme leaves • Knob of butter • Splash of oil • Neeps and tatties (mashed swede and mashed potato) and steamed seasonal greens to serve FOR THE WHISKY CREAM SAUCE • 100ml chicken stock • Splash whisky to taste • 200ml double cream YOU’LL ALSO NEED… •…

YOUR COOKERY INSPIRATION Heart-shaped Valentine’s eggs – we can feel a craze coming on… Slow-cooking the lighter way – yes, it can be done! How to make a proper cassoulet The self-saucing puddings collection – need we say more? MASTERCLASS: TRICKS, SKILLS & KNOW-HOW READ ALL ABOUT IT... Rick Stein’s moving letter to his food hero, Jane Grigson Friday night (best night of the week): the movie to watch, the meal to cook and the wine to enjoy with it How to make February a uniquely happy month TRAVEL: THE WINTRY BEAUTY OF THE FAROE ISLANDS PLUS Delia revives her classic cider-braised bangers…

RECIPES KATY MCCLELLANDPHOTOGRAPHS MIKE ENGLISHFOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELLSTYLING MORAG FARQUHAR A HEALTHY STEW By nutritionist Amanda Ursell The protein/soluble fibre combo helps keep you feeling full, and with selenium, iodine and iron, plus vitamins C and A and zinc, the stew is an immune booster. On a non-fasting day, serve with a hunk of sourdough. Amanda is the nutrition editor of our sister magazine Healthy Food Guide Curried eggs on toast SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN • Knob of butter • ½ red chilli, sliced • 70g frozen peas, thawed • 2 tsp garam masala • 3 medium free-range eggs, beaten, seasoned with salt and pepper • 1 spring onion, sliced • Small handful fresh coriander leaves, chopped • 1 slice good quality sourdough, toasted • 1 tbsp greek…

Health hack NUTS These little powerhouses (particularly almonds, pistachios and walnuts) are jam-packed with good stuff – including vitamins and minerals, healthy fats and protein. Plus, eating more than two servings a week can help reduce the risk of heart attack and stroke. Stir chopped nuts into porridge or risotto; sprinkle over salads; or chop finely and add to bread dough. S H O PPI N G T R O L L E Y PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, THINKSTOCK PHOTOS New research from the University of Eastern Finland suggests that rye bread isn’t just good for gut health – it can also help keep blood sugar levels under control. These health benefits appear to stem from the interplay between microbes in the gut and those that develop as…

While it’s unclear which method of feeding livestock – grass or grain – is better for the environment, when it comes to nutritional value, there’s more consensus. Scientists agree that grass-fed animals can produce meat or milk that is richer in omega-3 fats, which are linked to a lower risk of heart attack and stroke. Products from grass-fed animals can also contain more conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), another type of beneficial fat, and some vitamins. But does grass-fed food have enough of a nutritional edge to make a difference to human health? And can we get the same nutrients from less expensive food, seafood or even a plant-based diet? ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES WHAT DEFINES GRASS-FED? There’s no legal definition but the UK’s Pasture-Fed Livestock Association (PFLA) says the term applies…

• We used a mixture of beef/veal and pork mince for succulence and a more traditional flavour. You can buy mixed packs of beef and pork mince in Aldi. • Adding milk to the ragù adds a gentle rounded sweetness. It also tenderises the mince and helps to keep the lasagne moist. • Slow-cooking the ragù is the key to giving the finished lasagne rich depth of flavour. • When assembling, a little bechamel or ragù on the base of the dish stops the pasta sticking to it. • Resting the lasagne before baking gives the flavours a chance to infuse and intensify.…

COVER RECIPE Gaeng keow waan gai (Thai green chicken curry) SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN MAKE AHEAD The paste will keep chilled in an airtight container for up to 3 days, but it’s best used the day it’s made (see above). KNOWHOW Some specialist ingredients are essential here. Fresh galangal, kaffir limes and Thai round and pea aubergines are available from Thai supermarkets or online at thai-food-online.co.uk. If you can’t find one or all of these ingredients, replace them with 1 tbsp readymade galangal paste; 1 shredded kaffir lime leaf (from large supermarkets); 3 regular aubergines, sliced lengthways (add in step 3). Thai basil and shrimp paste are available from large supermarkets or Asian grocers. FOOD TEAM’S TIP This curry is SPICY. Reduce the number of chillies by as…

Mayonnaise, hollandaise, vinaigrette and pan  sauces all rely on the same process: emulsification. This involves trapping tiny drops of fat between water molecules using a substance such as mustard or egg yolk to form a thick, glossy sauce. But if it goes wrong, the sauce can separate or split. Here’s why: MAYONNAISE If you add the oil too quickly, it prevents the egg yolk from binding the oil and vinegar/lemon juice (which are mainly water) properly. To prevent splitting: • Start with your ingredients at room temperature. • Whisk the egg yolk and vinegar (or lemon juice) in a bowl with the mustard, then whisk in a drop of oil at a time, ensuring it’s incorporated before adding more. • As the sauce begins to thicken, increase the oil to…

PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES/LEE TRACEY Years ago, I compered some cooking demonstrations at a popular home show. Next to the cookery theatre was an area we nicknamed ‘the corridor of crap’. Each small stall had a chap deftly demonstrating the latest thing to make cooking easy: battery-operated revolving spoons to stir sauces; food bags that would somehow imbue a smoky flavour; and dozens of devices to make chopping veg easier. By the end of the 14-day show there was enough mirepoix to make Escoffier’s sauce espagnole for the five thousand. Of course, labour-saving devices are nothing new. Look around your kitchen and you’ll see an oven and hob instead of a hearth, a fridge instead of an ice house and knives instead of, er, pieces of sharpened flint. But these things…

Save our cask ale heritage! STAR EMAIL FROM: HARRIET ELEY I’ve worked my whole adult life in the beer industry (from pot washer in pubs to marketing) so I feel I must comment on the description of cask ale in The Great Christmas Drinks refresh [Dec, p137]. I support experimentation. I’m a craft beer drinker and love what it has brought to Britain, so it was devastating to see the line “falling asleep over dull, brown, old-fashioned cask ales” in print. Cask ale is Britain’s beer heritage. It has a rich history of regional diversity, of small producers, of generations of brewers learning their craft, and it has a huge variety of styles and flavours. It struggled to survive the 70s, 80s and 90s when bland, over-gassed ‘lagers’ reigned supreme.…

Tom Kerridge is hard to miss as he strides in, tall and lanky, bald head gleaming above his trademark grin. As we settle down to chat in Kerridge’s Bar & Grill in central London, the affable 46-year-old chef is looking a little tired – and it’s soon clear why. He’s juggling so many projects that his schedule is gruelling. Tom’s latest cookbook (his seventh), Lose Weight & Get Fit (Bloomsbury £22), came out last month and he’s just finished filming an accompanying BBC Two television series that’s scheduled to air imminently. His new Manchester restaurant, The Bull & Bear, opened in November. And then there are his pubs in Marlow, Bucks: The Butcher’s Tap, The Hand and Flowers, and The Coach (the latter two hold three Michelin stars between them),…

SOMETHING TO SIP It’s not brand new, but this aromatic infusion of aniseed, fennel and cardamom has been keeping the delicious. team refreshed with its mild herby flavour, subtle sweetness and clean aftertaste – and you can compost the hemp bags. Pukka Feel New Organic herbal tea bags, from £2.50 for 20, Ocado, Waitrose, Sainsbury’s and Holland & Barrett TREND ALERT Supermarkets have gone mad for steamed bao buns. We’ve tried several and rate Itsu’s cook-from-frozen hoisin duck baos. Fluffy dough conceals a savoury hit of hoisin, veg and meat. Comes with individual pouches for microwave cooking but use a steamer/ colander for superior pillowy-ness. Itsu hoisin duck bao buns, £3, Sainsbury’s & Tesco CONDIMENT OF THE MONTH Tabasco marries its barrel-aged hot pepper sauce with popular Thai chilli sauce…

“I never quite know how to handle January. It feels as though it’s missing something to hold on to, something to steady us at the threshold of a new year. Time spent in the kitchen usually helps me navigate this unpredictable month. At least here there are a few things I can count on – ingredients that have made a home out of January, ingredients that inspire me and shore up my footing. After the festive excesses, citrus fruit are such ingredients. They have the ability to brighten the darkest of months with their riot of colour, and revitalise a jaded palate with sours of every kind. Many of the citrus fruit we enjoy eating, including the wonderful seville orange, are at their best right now. This month I’m celebrating…

Plastic is a hot topic. Campaigners such as David Attenborough and programmes including 2019’s War on Plastic have helped to put the problem on the national agenda. There are 150 million tonnes of plastic in the oceans, and every year a million birds and more than 100,000 sea mammals die from eating and getting tangled in plastic waste, according to a UK Government report. Recycling alone isn’t the answer: the system is groaning under the weight of plastic packaging, and some problem plastics – straws, black product trays and cling film – aren’t currently recycled at all (it takes 500 years for a plastic straw to break down, according to DEFRA). Like many people, I’ve become ‘plastic woke’. I’ve got a water bottle, a KeepCup, and a tote for the…

1. BANISH CLING FILM The Beeswax Wrap Company has partnered with Liberty to produce wraps in classic Liberty prints. Made with British beeswax and organic cotton. Leftover chic! Set of 3 beeswax/cotton food wraps, £25 plus P&P, libertylondon.com 2. SWAP PANS GreenPan’s durable cookware is made with upcycled steel and aluminium where possible, and the non-toxic coating is produced with 60 per cent less CO2. GreenPan Venice Pro 28cm frying pan, £59.99 plus P&P, lakeland.co.uk 3. SHARE IT, DON’T BIN IT Got a glut from your veg patch? Post a listing on the OLIO food-sharing app with a photo and a pick-up location, and share it with grateful users in your area (the app has 1.4 million to date). FREE on Google Play or Apple App Store 4. STORE BREAD…

PORTRAIT: TREVOR LEIGHTON. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE*delicious. TESTED THIS RECIPE AND MEASURED THE WATER POURED OVER THE MEAT AS 100ML “No retrospective from me would be complete without steak and kidney pudding because I am emotionally attached to it. Firstly because of its sheer Englishness. In London’s east end, where there is a tradition of good eating, good butchers and good meat, cockney slang affectionately referred to it as Kate and Sidney. Across the social divide up west, within the dining rooms of exclusive gentlemen’s clubs, the pudding would be regally served on a silver platter with a starched linen napkin wrapped around it. A knife would then be inserted and slices of the soft pudding crust were served with the luscious steaming…

If one of your New Year’s resolutions for 2020 is to learn a new language, prepare to feast on a new food lexicon. A Norwegian-American food writer living in the UK, I speak five languages. Learning a new language flexes your brain and allows you to connect with people, and enjoying food when you travel is a handy way in. Picking up new words from a menu in a café is an easy way to start, as is trying a new, unfamiliar dish. And when it comes to the vocabulary of food, every language I’ve learned has offered a cornucopia of enchantments. A WAY INTO A NEW CULTURE One of the delights of learning a new language is that it gives you an insight into another culture, including its eating…

English is a rich language but it’s not without its oversights. Why is there no word for those browned bits you scrape up and devour from the base of the casserole, for example? And why has no one given a proper title to that love-it-or-loathe-it skin that forms on baked rice pudding? They have now. Here are some of your suggestions, via Twitter… @thomasTMFmorley The crispy bits of anything left in the pan are called “scritchings” in our house @sazzyangelwings We were brought up calling the skin on rice pudding “the blanket” @bradus59 “Gubbins” – the bits and bobs found in the bottom of the fridge that we throw into the soup maker once a week “Missings” – meals cobbled together that vaguely resemble a recipe but that are lacking…

“Non-alcoholic drinks have never tasted better, but choose with care. This is a growing market and, while the best drinks are well balanced, the worst can taste artificial. You’ll notice some drinks contain a tiny amount of alcohol but it’s not enough to be significant (a ripe banana contains 0.4 per cent). If you’re doing dry January or cutting back, here are my top picks – plus a mocktail and a book with lots more ideas.” SUSY ATKINS, DRINKS EDITOR FRUITY SPARKLER Belle & Co Alcohol Free Sparkling Rosé, 0% (£3.50 for 75cl, Morrisons) A fun and lively pink sparkler, well priced. Fruity raspberry and strawberry notes but not as sweet as some. GINGER ZINGER Fentimans Ginger Beer, England, 0% (from £1 for 275ml, widely available) Sweet, full-on ginger flavour…

Our winner and guest will enjoy three nights at Widbrook Grange, an idyllic Grade II-listed Georgian farmhouse on the edge of the Cotswolds, near Bradford-on-Avon. You’ll stay in a Super Deluxe double room, featuring a classic rolltop bathtub to relax in, and start each morning with a full English breakfast – with a late check-out on your final day. Stroll in the hotel’s 11 acres of gardens or take a dip in the indoor pool before enjoying afternoon tea with a glass of prosecco. You’ll enjoy a three-course dinner on a night of your choice, too. During your stay, you’ll also be treated to a personalised gin tasting experience, with the opportunity to try award-winning craft gins, expertly paired with complementary tonics and garnishes. It’s going to be a minibreak…

“January is the worst time to start anything drastic” Each new year we’re inundated with the latest food and wellness trends, promising to create the fittest, healthiest, happiest version of you. It may be the beginning of a new year, but does that mean we’re at the peak of our motivation? Or does the multi-million-pound wellness industry sell us the ‘new you’ idea in January because we’re most vulnerable to it then? In my opinion, January is the worst time to start anything drastic. The holiday festivities may have left us feeling a little off-kilter after eating and drinking too much and being out of our work routine. Yet this period of reduced productivity does give us an opportunity to stop, take stock and create happy memories and associations with…

“With breakfast as with all meals, good nutrition is key, but eating well has everything to do with pleasure. These protein-packed, plant-powered recipes are a great example of that ethos”ANNIE BELL Nutty banana loaf SERVES 10. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 45-55 MIN “When my children were growing up, banana bread was one of the few cakes I fed them without a guilty conscience. With its gooey sweetness and heady scent, it does away with the need for sugar-laden icings and the like. Bananas that are just a little bit too ripe for eating are best here. I don’t often choose wholemeal flour for cakes, but one with this amount of character can pull it off, and it’s even more nutritious than if it were made with plain flour.…

GET THE FLAVOUR RIGHT With most Thai curries it’s perfectly acceptable to use a decent ready-made paste. But not this one. The vivid colour of a green curry requires freshness. The longer a green paste sits around, the more it loses that bright chlorophyll colour and fresh flavour. Remember also that this curry is not meant to be sweet or mild – it’s brash, bright and spicy. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT A large stone pestle and mortar is what you need here. Wooden ones or those silly little white ones simply won’t do. Alternatively, a Nutri-bullet or mini-chopper work brilliantly. TECHNIQUES The finer you chop all the herbs and spices initially, the easier it will be to pound them to a smooth paste. Add a little water to bind the paste.…

What’s the best route to crisp perfection? 1. COLD PAN METHOD Putting cold rashers into a hot pan will cause them to curl and cook unevenly. Instead, lay the bacon into a cold, non-stick frying pan, then put it on the hob over a medium heat. As the pan heats up, the rashers will start to brown underneath and bubble on top. Once the underside is done to your liking, flip the rashers over and give them a few minutes more on the second side. This method gives evenly browned bacon that lies relatively flat and crisps up as it cools. You can use a heavy-based (as opposed to non-stick) pan, but this may cause patches of scorching rather than even colouring. 2. OVEN METHOD When you’re cooking a lot…

CRUSTY WHITE BREAD FROM GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICH P106 GARLIC CRUNCH Pulse 2 slices of bread into coarse crumbs in a food processor. Add 2 crushed garlic cloves and pulse again. Stir in chopped parsley and lemon zest, then fry in olive oil until golden. Sprinkle over pasta for a zingy finish. BRUNCHTIME EGGY BREAD Whisk 2 medium free-range eggs in a shallow dish, then dip in 4 slices of bread to coat. Heat a knob of butter in a frying pan and fry each slice until golden. Top with winter berry compote, then serve sprinkled with icing sugar and ground cinnamon. ITALIAN CHICKEN GOUJONS In a food processor, pulse 2 slices of bread to fine crumbs, then stir in 1 tsp dried Italian mixed herbs and seasoning. Flatten a free-range…