Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2019 i Delicious UK

PHOTOGRAPHS: MAJA SMEND, SUE LACEY PHOTOGRAPHY You’ll have noticed by now that this is an issue with a difference. If anyone asks me to sum up delicious. I say we are warm, down to earth, we try never to be intimidating, we have a mix of simpler and more challenging recipes but we always explain unusual ingredients and where to get them. We tell the stories behind food and (this is key) we try to empower cooks everywhere through teaching skills and know-how that increase and enrich knowledge. Why? Because when you understand the ingredients and skills involved in a recipe, you become more confident in the kitchen – and that in turn encourages you to experiment and even develop your own recipes. That overall aim is where the theme…

THE MISSION Rosie trained as a pastry chef and was inspired to launch a food business with a social purpose after meeting a young homeless man. She opened her patisserie in 2011, which offers training to long-term unemployed young people. WHAT DOES SHE DO? Miss Macaroon’s 10-week MacsMAD (Macaroons that Make A Difference) courses give 18-35-year olds in the West Midlands who’ve experienced barriers to employment the opportunity to develop their skills in a supportive environment. “Every activity is a tool for them to work on the skills they need,” says Rosie. “For example, we teach them how to make a piping bag and pipe different shapes, which for some might be a way to improve their handwriting without it feeling like school.” The company also runs ‘Welcome to work’…

1 What does ‘au gratin’ actually mean? 2 During WWII ‘mock goose’ was a recipe made with what? a) Chicken leg meat b)Boiled parsnips c) Salt cod 3 A typical pancake recipe includes flour/egg/milk/butter/salt – what else is added to make a scotch pancake? a) Baking powder b) Whisky c) Grated turnip 4 Chinese five-spice contains cinnamon, cloves, star anise, fennel seeds and which other spice? 5 What did Samuel Pepys acquire ‘by the barrel’ from Billingsgate market? 6 What’s the term for adding lemon juice to water to stop fruit and veg browning? a) Lemonate b)Acidulate c) De-alkalise 7 Canapé is a nibble with a drink. What does it mean in French? 8 If, as is said, flaky pastry has 27 layers and croissants 81, how many does puff…

Gemma Teague and her partner Al design beautiful picnic blankets inspired by the sea and tides of North Cornwall, where they live and work delicious. STAR  WHERE IT ALL BEGAN We live in Perranporth, right on the beach. Every day we walk by the sea – just seeing (and hearing) it roll in is a big positive in our lives. We surf as well, so we pretty much live in the water and our children belong to Nippers, the local surf life-saving club. Al and I met at a design agency where we’d see all the latest furnishings come through so we both have a passion for pattern and colour, and our designs try to put across our love of Cornwall and the Atlantic Ocean. OUR INSPIRATION We use sustainable…

PORTRAITS: NITIN KAPOOR, ELENAHEATHERWICK, AYA BRACKETT, TARA FISHER,GARETH MORGANS, JONATHAN PERUGIA,CHARLIE RICHARDS, MIKE ENGLISH CYRUS TODIWALA  Chef-patron of London’s Café Spice Namasté THE SKILL Master gravy “When preparing goat meat or Indian free-range chicken, both of which take ages to cook, my mother always used a lid for the pot that was more like a deep round tray – a thali – and filled it with water. This not only made it heavy, sealing the pot, but also heated the water, which she slowly fed to the masala as it dried out, and the gravy was gradually formed to perfection.” OLIA HERCULES  Food writer and cookbook author THE SKILL Be a tidy cook “When I trained at Leiths School of Food and Wine, it was emphasised how important it is…

In a successful summer soup you should be able to taste the ingredients individually and as a harmonious bowlful. So it’s important to take care when you add the different vegetables, some of which need little cooking. New potatoes and fennel need to soften slowly to give depth to the soup. Peas, broad beans and lettuce only need a few minutes of simmering, so add those towards the end of the cooking time. Fresh herbs, which transform this soup into something extraordinary, are added just before serving to help them retain their vibrant, zesty character.…

IF anyone knows how to make a recipe break the internet, it’s Alison Roman, the unofficial queen of the ‘viral recipe’. The American food writer and former food editor of Bon Appétit magazine and BuzzFeed, whose work appears regularly in The New York Times, has two mega-hits under her belt: #thecookie in 2018 and, #thestew in late 2018/early 2019. (If you haven’t yet had the pleasure, search the hashtags on Instagram.) The two recipes appear to have little in common. The cookie, a salted butter and chocolate chunk shortbread recipe from her book Dining In (Quadrille), has salted-butter dough studded with dark chocolate that’s rolled in sugar for crisp edges. They are insanely good. The stew, created for The New York Times, is a nourishing, thick coconut broth with chickpeas…

Lamb massaman with ‘quickled’ veg SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 4 HOURS MAKE AHEAD Store the curry and drained quickled veg in separate airtight containers in the fridge for up to 3 days. Reheat the curry to serve. • 6 banana shallots, finely chopped • 3 red chillies, deseeded, finely chopped • 1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger • 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 2 lemongrass stalks, white part only, roughly chopped • 25g fresh coriander, leaves picked, stems chopped • 6 fresh kaffir lime leaves, bruised (or 8-10 dried) • 2.5kg bone-in British lamb leg, cut crossways through the bone into 6-8 pieces (ask a butcher to do this for you) • 2 tbsp sunflower oil • 150g unsalted peanuts • 200g massaman curry paste…

The cruise ship Iona, which launches in 2020, will be home to the first craft gin distillery at sea, its beautiful copper still producing gin to individual tastes as part of the ship’s gin-distilling masterclasses. Tradition dictates that a gin still is given a name, often linked to the time, place or people who are using it – and P&O Cruises is turning to delicious. readers for inspiration. The winning name for the still will be chosen by a P&O Cruises panel of experts, including delicious. editor Karen Barnes. Its creator will win a seven-night cruise for two with a choice of itineraries: the magnificent Norwegian Fjords or vibrant Western Europe, taking in the ports of Rotterdam and Hamburg. You’ll see the still displaying your winning name and experience Iona’s…

AL DENTE is an Italian term used to describe food that’s cooked so that it retains a bit of bite after cooking (the literal translation is ‘to the tooth’). Food best cooked al dente includes pasta, which should be soft, but with texture. Commercial (dried) pasta generally reaches the al dente stage when the whiteness in the centre has disappeared, although if you’re adding it to sauce to cook for a few more minutes, it’s ready when the centre still has a bit of chalkiness. Risotto and rice should also be cooked al dente. Vegetables such as carrots and green beans are best when they still have a bit of bite, too. Aim for a firm, ‘just-cooked’ texture. BLANCHING means cooking something (usually green veg) briefly in boiling liquid. Blanching…

WHAT MAKES LOUGH NEAGH SMOKED EELS WORTHY OF A delicious. PRODUCE AWARD? This is a wild-caught product, not farmed fish – and it shows. The lough is home to all kinds of fish fry, shellfish, insects and larvae, which provide a rich diet for the eels, helping to develop their high fat content and appealingly firm texture. These attributes make the eels particularly suited to hot-smoking which, done carefully, allows them to retain their texture and take on a hint of smoke from the wood without overpowering their own flavour. Then, of course, there’s the fishery’s unique history and strict conservation measures. WHAT THE JUDGES SAID Food writer and TV presenter Prue Leith “I like the light smoke, great taste and sexy softness.” Chef and TV presenter Andi Oliver “It…

1 The strong sense of community. Fishermen right the way round the lough have a connection with each other. 2 Continuing an age-old tradition. Some families have been fishing the lough for generations and take great pride in that. 3 The interaction with nature. Learning to ‘read’ the lough is a valuable skill. 4 The thrill of the chase. If you can pull one over on your neighbour with your knowledge, so much the better. 5 The open-air lifestyle. On good days, there’s no better place to be.…

THE BARGAIN WHITE Taste the Difference Portuguese Alvarinho 2018 (£7.50, down to £6.50 3-23 July, Sainsbury’s) A summery white from Portugal’s cool coastal north-west. Tastes of lemons and limes with a crisp, mineral finish. Pair with white fish and leafy salads. THE SPLASH-OUT SUMMER RED Louis Latour Les Pierres Dorées Pinot Noir 2017, Coteaux Bourguignons, France (£17.89, TheDrinkShop) A cool, fresh pinot noir is perfect on a hot summer’s night. This fragrant, plummy one is a delight with duck or a rare steak. THE BARGAIN RED La Piuma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2017, Italy (£7.99, down to £5.99 until 9 July, Waitrose) Snap up this ripe Italian red while it’s on offer. It’s packed with juicy plum and red cherry flavours – just the wine for a plate of charcuterie outdoors. THE…

The latest scientific research into the human microbiome (the collection of microorganisms inside our bodies) has taught us that what and how we eat is crucial for our health. But are frontline doctors ready to adopt a more nutrition-centred approach? The answer, sadly, may be no. Most medical schools in the UK still relegate the topic of nutrition to a few hours of teaching within the curriculum – certainly not enough to ensure that future medics can advise future patients on better nutritional choices. Many in the profession consider nutrition advice the exclusive role of dieticians. The consequences are far-reaching, including a culture of overmedicalisation of patients – by which I mean treating the symptoms with drugs, rather than working on prevention and trying to improve a patient’s lifestyle. A…

RECIPE: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR Pesto, prosciutto and artichoke tart SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 25 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP To make it meat-free, swap the prosciutto for roasted red peppers from a jar. • Olive oil for brushing • 6 filo pastry sheets • 5-6 tbsp basil pesto • 2 large free-range eggs • 200ml single cream • 75g sun-dried tomatoes, roughly chopped • 6 roasted artichoke hearts, roughly chopped • 4 prosciutto slices, torn • 125g ball mozzarella, torn • Large handful rocket (optional) YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • 23-25cm ovenproof non-stick frying pan 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Brush the frying pan with a little oil, then lay on a sheet of filo pastry,…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Buffalo wings with celery and blue cheese slaw SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 40-50 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you don’t have a julienne peeler, shred with a Y-peeler then cut into fine matchsticks. • 1kg free-range chicken wings • 3 tbsp vegetable oil • 1 tsp garlic powder • 3 tbsp sriracha chilli sauce • 2 tbsp runny honey FOR THE SLAW • 75g blue cheese (we used stilton) • 100ml natural yogurt • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 2 celery sticks, very finely sliced diagonally, leaves reserved • ½ medium celeriac, peeled and cut into fine matchsticks (about 300g) • 2 carrots, shredded with a julienne peeler (see tip) • Juice ½ lemon…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHERE The School of Artisan Food, Retford, Nottinghamshire (schoolofartisanfood.org) THE COURSE Introduction to Ice Cream Making, £165 for one day, including breakfast and lunch with wine TESTER Madhushri Nadgir THE SETTING Housed in refurbished stables on the beautiful Welbeck Estate in Sherwood Forest, the School of Artisan Food has gorgeous views. The buildings have been kitted out with top-of-the-range equipment for teaching charcuteriemaking, brewing, breadmaking and butchery, among other skills. We were welcomed by the teaching team, shown to the dining room for breakfast and given the day’s recipe book to look over. GROUP SIZE AND WORKSPACE The training room is well set out, with enough room for each student to move about – and make a bit of a mess! This class takes up to 10:…

• When making the custard base for ice cream, use a digital probe thermometer and heat to 82°C. That will give the ice cream the right thickness and velvety texture, and will kill any nasty bacteria. Don’t let the custard boil or it will split. • Once you’ve made the custard base, cool it quickly using an ice bath, then ‘age’ it for up to four days, covered in the fridge. This gives the fat and water molecules time to bond, giving a creamier, more flavourful end result. • The amount of sugar added changes an ice cream’s setting properties. If you need to add more sweetness when flavouring the base, use 1 tsp liquid glucose (from supermarkets) instead of sugar for a super scoopable texture.…

As one of the editors of a guide to the world’s best coffee shops, I visited hundreds of places across Europe. Those we rated among the best all had one thing in common (other than great coffee, obviously): the baristas enveloped their love of coffee in a human touch. The bad places were bad in different ways, but one trait shared by the most infuriating establishments was that they looked down their noses at their less coffee-nerdy customers. For instance, coffee experts have a thing about how you shouldn’t add milk to certain types of coffee. There’s nothing wrong in educating the customer about why they might decide to try their filter coffee without milk, but if the general public decides that, after being given all the information, they still…

1307 King Edward I died on 7 July. He earned a place in culinary history for a colossal coronation feast 33 years earlier, which included 60 oxen and cows, 60 swine, two fat boars, 40 bacon pigs and 3,000 capons and hens. 1865 The Salvation Army was founded on 5 July by William and Catherine Booth to promote the three Ss: ‘Soup, soap and salvation’. Serving doughnuts at the front in WWI, and food and drink at Ground Zero after the Twin Tower attacks, the charity has provided food at seminal points in history. 1988 The first episode of the BBC’s Countryfile examined the fishing conflict between anglers and conservationists. From bog snorkelling to worm charming, the cult programme continues to cover all manner of creative country pursuits. 2006 Three…

In April the agricultural committee of the European Parliament voted in favour of a proposal to ban meaty monikers such as ‘sausage’ and ‘steak’ being used to describe vegan and vegetarian products. The revision follows a 2017 ruling prohibiting plant-based products made from soya or tofu from being labelled as ‘milk’ or ‘butter’, with those in favour claiming the change will offer consumers greater clarity and protect food heritage. Protected designations would include escalope, steak, sausage and burger, with veggie ‘tubes’ and ‘discs’ being touted as alternative titles for plant-based versions. Sceptics have suggested the meat industry is behind the proposal, which has been criticised by organisations such as Greenpeace, while some MEPs say the proposal represents a creative opportunity for producers. A counter-petition launched by food awareness group ProVeg…

LAND OF PLENTY I’m from Crete, and what we have in our food culture is variety. My maternal grandmother was a very good cook and would preserve things and cure and ferment. All these processes are now in fashion, yet she was doing them 50 years ago. We had a lot of cheeses, sausages, smoked meats, pulses and vegetables… On an island like Crete, food needs to be seasonal because it costs a lot of money to fly things in. THE MASTERCHEF EXPERIENCE The energy in a space where everybody is driven by the same love and passion is palpable. You’re operating at the maximum of your capability; your senses are heightened and your appreciation of everything around you is so much more pronounced. I loved that part. I applied…

WALLOP ON A DOLLOP For something different, wasabi mayonnaise (£4.50) is worth a try – mayo being an efficient vehicle for an additional layer of flavour. Excellent with smoked fish, cold meat or burgers. Try the yuzu flavour too. thewasabi company.co.uk CHEAT’S CANAPÉ These look like the kind of thing I’d never buy, but one taste and I was hooked. Warm, then bite into one and you get melty mature cheddar, mozzarella and a hit of pickle. Cheddar & Ploughman’s Baking Bites, £2.80, Waitrose ONE FOR THE BARBIE The delicious. team have tasted all the various Powters sausages and think they’re excellent. My fave is Scrumpy Pig pork sausage with cider and apple. £3.09 for 400g, Waitrose, farm shops and delis, or £3.33 from powters.co.uk…

TIMING“My mum and grandma were fantastic bakers,” says pastry chef and chocolatier Paul A Young. “Every Sunday, all the family would come around for tea. It was a full-on production, and all the cakes, scones, biscuits and pies had to be chilled down, decorated and ready. We enjoyed it and I learned how to work to a timeframe from a very young age.” IMAGINATION“My most valuable skill is my imagination,” says Diana Henry. “I could never be a chef because my knife skills are terrible, but I don’t think you need those to be a really good cook – you just need to be able to think of what flavours and ingredients go together.” JOY“One-pot meals are the best thing you can do when you’re entertaining,” says Spanish chef and…

• Finishing off the rice just before serving means you can ensure it has the correct consistency – push a wooden spoon through it and the risotto should slowly fill the gap like a wave. • Look for large shell-on prawns and leave on the tail, if you can, as these will look elegant on top of the rice. • Chefs are always looking to add height to a dish to give it extra visual impact. Loose tangles of pea shoots/baby leaves look delicate and pretty, and their fresh, grassy flavour pairs well with the peas and lemon. Keep them perky by using an ice bath (see kohlrabi salad recipe, p32).…

“There’s something magical about pods. They hold the seeds within, protecting them, sealed away from the world until they’re ripe and ready, at which point the pod splits and something new begins.Broad beans and peas in their pods are an annual cause for happiness, coinciding with sunshine and flowers. Thumbing open a pod of bright green peas plucked straight from the plant and popping them into your mouth is a life-affirming moment. Peas are so sweet and tender it’s hard to imagine how cooking them could improve things. Broad beans are equally sweet eaten fresh and raw. When they’re still finger-sized, small ones can be eaten pod and all.Sadly, peas and broad beans don’t travel well. As soon as they’re plucked from the plant the pods begin to turn limp…

Digital editor Rebecca Brett says: “New ideas for weeknight staples like salmon, pasta and chicken are always popular, as are mash-ups of popular classics, such as a cheesy tartiflette with the addition of chicken, or brownies with a luscious swirl of peanut butter (see opposite). Comfort food and carbs tend to be hits but, conversely, so are healthy dishes with lots of bright, fresh vegetables. Indulgence works – but so does health.” Find all the recipes above on deliciousmagazine.co.uk…

“This recipe takes time – you have to start making it three days in advance, although much of that time is leaving it to cure or marinate. But here’s the promise: these duck spring rolls are well worth the effort. Combining Western curing and traditional Chinese cooking techniques brings out the best from the duck legs. The excess fat is removed and the flavour is enhanced by citrus peel and spices. Why would you not want to pack that tender flavourful meat into a spring roll? You can freeze the filling or uncooked rolls, too. It takes a bit of work, so my tip is to double or triple the quantities and make enough for one big party!” JEREMY PANG, FOOD WRITER & TEACHER Jeremy Pang’s ultimate three-day-duck spring rolls…

“Belly is one of my favourite cuts of pork. In this dish, the meat’s rich fattiness is perfectly offset by the sweet yet tart flavour of the peaches. It’s a great dish to serve for Sunday lunch, as most of the work is done beforehand – or by the oven.” GEORGE BARSON, EXECUTIVE CHEF, CORA PEARL RESTAURANT A BIT ABOUT GEORGE After college, the Devon-born chef moved to London, working with Nuno Mendes, Heston Blumenthal and Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen. Next came a stint at River Cottage, where George climbed the ranks to sous chef. In 2017 he became head chef at Kitty Fisher’s in London’s Mayfair, and he’s now executive chef of both Kitty Fisher's and sister restaurant Cora Pearl in Covent Garden. Pork belly with roast peaches, chard and…

THE ART OF QUICK PICKLING Quick pickling takes 30 minutes and is best done with very fresh, raw veg, usually in a solution of vinegar, water and salt (and often sugar). Once pickled, drain the vegetables, store in the fridge and use them up over the next few days. They won’t develop the same deep flavour as traditionally pickled veg but they do have a tangy sweet/sharp flavour and will keep their fresh crunch. Quick pickling is commonly used to mellow the harsh, raw flavour of red onions.…

Cherry pie bombe alaska SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND AT LEAST 5 HOURS FREEZING MAKE AHEAD Complete the recipe to the end of step 5 up to 3 days ahead. • 425g tin pitted cherries, drained (reserve 40ml of the juice) • 75g caster sugar • 2 tbsp kirsch (optional) • 25g cornflour • Pink food colouring (optional) • 1.25 litres good quality vanilla ice cream, softened for 15-20 minutes • 250g shortbread biscuits • 250g shop-bought madeira cake, crumbled • 75g unsalted butter, melted and cooled FOR THE ITALIAN MERINGUE • 220g caster sugar • 4 medium free-range egg whites • Pinch cream of tartar YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • Food processor; 23cm springform tin, greased, the base lined with non-stick baking paper; stand mixer or…

THE TOP FIVE 1 THERMAPEN CLASSIC PROBE THERMOMETER We use this all the time. Delivering a long battery life, it can be used for meat and sugar work, and the temperature reading is reliable and easy to read. The probe folds down for drawer-friendly storage. £51.60, thermapen.co.uk 2 SALTER WATERPROOF DIGITAL KITCHEN SCALE The add-and-weigh function lets you add new ingredients to the same bowl – no separate weighing. Plus, you can weigh smaller amounts accurately down to 1g – ideal for salt and yeast. £29.99, salterhousewares.co.uk 3 OXO Y-SHAPED PEELER So easy and quick to use. This can also grate ribbons of carrot and cucumber and is strong enough to peel curls from chocolate bars. £5.99, John Lewis and amazon.co.uk 4 MICROPLANE GOURMET SERIES FINE GRATER Super-sharp: grates hard…

• They’re born in the ocean but live most of their lives inland in fresh water, only returning to the ocean to spawn and die. • Yellow eels (or brown eels as they’re known at Lough Neagh) turn silver before they migrate back to the sea. Their digestive system closes down, so they have to rely on stored energy to make the journey. • Silver eels only migrate at night – and then only during the dark phase of the moon. • They can survive for some time out of water and can wriggle over wet grass to get to the next lake or river. Elvers (baby eels) can overcome barriers too, by piling themselves up by the thousand to build a tower.…

1 The long hours and physical effort. In the summer, the fishermen are out on the lough at 4am and often haven’t finished preparing for the next day until 7pm. 2 The weather. The sheer size of Lough Neagh means conditions can change quickly – sunny one minute and a gale blowing the next. 3 The same things that affect any business, including regulations and the rising cost of overheads. 4 Worries about sustainability. “People are rightly concerned about conservation,” says Pat Close. “In recent decades, the decline in eel numbers made huge headlines and we were badly affected. The positive things we do aren’t as well understood.” 5 Changing attitudes, particularly among the young. These challenges have made eel fishing less attractive as a career choice.…

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Tomatoes are, of course, fruit, but even when they’re super-ripe and sweet they retain something of an acidic tang. A wine needs to be crisp and fresh enough to match it. Think citrus-driven, unoaked, dry white wines and you’re on the right track. To pin down the right bottle more precisely, consider whether the tomatoes are raw or cooked. Fresh tomatoes need lighter whites – French sauvignon blancs are best of all for a simple tomato salad, even one with a light vinaigrette. But cooking tomatoes – perhaps for the base of a rich vegetarian bake – intensifies their sweetness, so crank up the power in the wine. In this case, a New World sauvignon blanc (especially an intensely flavoured New Zealand one) works better. Throw basil…

WEEKNIGHT PROMISE Your guarantee for every recipe in this feature? NO MORE THAN… • 10 ingredients (excluding butter/oil and serving suggestions) • 30 minutes hands-on time • 650 calories per portion • 10g saturated fat per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar Broccoli and walnut panzanella SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN • 1 head broccoli • 4 tbsp olive oil • Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon • ¼ tsp chilli flakes • 200g leftover sourdough bread, torn into 3cm chunks • 75g shelled walnuts, toasted in a dry pan • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 400g mixed tomatoes, halved or sliced if large • Handful fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Using a sharp knife…

One-pot cheesy tomato and gnocchi bake SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 15-20 MIN MAKE AHEAD Cover and chill the sauce up to 2 days ahead. On the day, simply add the gnocchi and cheese to the sauce and bake as in the recipe. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If not serving vegetarians, add a handful of bacon lardons with the peppers and basil, if you like. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a heavy-based ovenproof casserole. Add 1 chopped red onion and 3 crushed garlic cloves, then cook over a medium heat for 6-8 minutes. Add 1 aubergine, cut into 1cm chunks, and cook for a further 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Stir in 2 sliced mixed peppers and a large handful of…

“Roasted aubergines marinated in a sweet and spicy miso sauce and served with fresh chillies and spring onions are the perfect quick snack or side dish for a big get-together. You can also cook the aubergines under the grill or in a griddle pan: brush both sides with the marinade, then cook for 10 minutes, turning once.” Corn fritters with tomato and avocado salsa Vg “Since my journey into cooking and eating vegan food began, I’ve been on a mission to create recipes that are full of flavour, texture, spice and comfort. That’s the way I like to cook – the way I was brought up to eat and enjoy food – and I didn’t want that to change just because I was no longer eating animal products. My book…

Ye Olde Bell Hotel and Spa (yeoldebell-hotel.co.uk) This refurbished, extended 17th-century former coaching inn is a short drive from Retford station and The School of Artisan Food. Rooms are more than comfortable and chef Keith Firth in Restaurant Bar 1650 has earned the hotel an AA rosette (there’s also a smaller bistro-style restaurant). Gin fans can choose from the long menu and enjoy their drink on the terrace overlooking the gardens. You’ll find a state-of-the-art spa, too. Doubles from £116 B&B…

AINSLEY’S CARIBBEAN KITCHEN Ainsley Harriott’s newest book accompanies his island-hopping ITV series and rounds up ‘beyond jerk chicken’ recipes from Jamaica, Barbados, Grenada, St Lucia, Antigua and Dominica. Photographs of the food and island scenery are beautiful, and the recipes are packed with sunny flavours. Ebury Press £20; out 11 July CHARRED: THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO VEGETARIAN GRILLING AND BBQ With summer a reality, it’s (at last!) time to take cooking outdoors and stoke the fire and flame. Genevieve Taylor’s compendium of creative, barbie-friendly meat-free recipes provides ideas for kebabs, burgers and fritters, slow-cooked dishes and smoke-infused wrapped parcels galore. Quadrille £16.99 MANDALAY: RECIPES AND TALES FROM A BURMESE KITCHEN MiMi Aye’s new book is a readable, personal collection of stories and recipes from a country she refers to as…

Greeks are sweet-lovers and Thessaloniki has innumerable dessert shops (zaxaroplasteio). Eminent among them is Chatzis (chatzis.gr), established in 1908, a decade before the fall of the Ottoman Empire. Before my visit I got some tips on the city’s best places to eat from Thessaloniki native Christina Mouratoglou, owner of Mazi and Suzi Tros restaurants in London’s Notting Hill. One of her recommendations was Elenidis (elenedis. com), which specialises in the city’s trademark sweet, trigona panoramatos, crisp filo pastry triangles filled with pastry cream, named after Panorama, a posh suburb of Thessaloniki. The traditional Greek sweet yeasted bread, tsoureki, is hugely popular, and not just at Easter. The version at Konstantinidis (konstandinidis.com), where you shop to the sound of live piano music, is sublime, with the tell-tale flavour of mastiha (mastic),…

THREE HARES Sedbergh, Cumbria  threeharescafe.co.uk On the narrow high street of the Dales ‘book town’ of Sedbergh, this black-fronted bakery-café is a beacon of cheer. It’s the vision of baker Nina Matsunaga (born in Germany to Japanese parents) and James Ratcliffe, a Cumbrian local. THE SETTING Chunky, scrubbed pine tables and shelves heaving with books make this a homely spot that invites you to linger. THE FOOD Nina honed her craft in Düsseldorf, so you can easily find German-style dark rye breads alongside farmhouse whites in the changing daily selection. Dry-cured bacon or local pork sausages on sourdough are mainstays of the breakfast menu, while lunchtime sandwiches might be piled with smoked salmon or rare roast beef. Just about everything is made on the premises, including traditional scones and all…

Top gongs in The Golden Chopsticks Awards, an annual celebration of oriental food, were claimed by: *BEST STREET FOOD* York’s Little Somboon Kitchen *BEST NEWCOMER* Cumbria’s Mizu Pan Asian Restaurant *BEST TAKEAWAY* Golden Dragon Takeaway in Swansea *REGIONAL BEST RESTAURANT AWARDS* These were received by London’s Little Viet Kitchen (England), Saundersfoot’s The Dragon Palace (Wales), Edinburgh’s Harajuku Kitchen (Scotland) and Belfast’s House of Zen (Northern Ireland).…

It’s summertime, and long sunny days (or even chilly, less sunny days) mean three things: beaches, the great outdoors and picnics. Blankets are part of the essential kit, and it’s hard to find better than those made by Atlantic Blankets, from £45 for a cosy child-size one to £125 for a picnic blanket with leather straps and a handle. atlanticblankets.com TWO NEW TIPPLES NON-ALCOHOLIC WINNER A few weeks ago a man appeared by my desk holding a box. “This is my passion,” he said. “I hope you like it.” His name was Paul Mathew and the box held a bottle of non-alcoholic aperitif. I confess my heart sank as so many of these non-spirits taste so insipid. But Paul’s Everleaf is different: it has substance. And then the taste: slightly…

7This is Elizabeth David’s chip scoop. It was bought for me as a gift by friends who’d gone to an auction of her personal kitchen bits and pieces, and when they saw it they knew it was meant for me. I love the fact that Elizabeth even had a chip scoop. I wonder what she must have scooped from and into it… Perhaps she’d been moonlighting at the local chippy? Having her scoop is a treat in the way that, if I were a football fan, I’d be thrilled to have Pele’s shirt. I used the scoop the first week I was given it but then decided it should be seen and not used, in case I washed off any of Elizabeth’s magic dust!”PETER GORDON PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. STYLING: OLIVIA…

Crab and gruyère tart with pea shoot and avocado salad SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 3-10 MIN, PLUS CHILLING AND COOLING MAKE AHEAD Keep the baked tart covered in the fridge for up to 2 days. Reheat or serve at room temperature. • 2 shallots, finely chopped • Large knob unsalted butter • 2 x 100g pots Fifty Fifty Crab (from Waitrose and Ocado, or 100g white crabmeat and 100g brown crabmeat) • 3 medium free-range eggs • 200ml double cream • 100ml crème fraîche • 75g gruyère, grated • Large pinch cayenne pepper • 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon • Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon FOR THE TARRAGON AND CAYENNE PASTRY • 250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting • ½ tsp…

• Chilling raw vegetables and salad in an ice bath gives them extra crunch. Food stylists and chefs do this to help preserve salad leaves and herbs and make them less floppy or to revive a tired-looking lettuce. I also add lemon juice to the water to stop kohlrabi and fennel from discolouring. • Edible flowers add elegance, colour and flavour, but if you can’t find them add whole herb leaves or fennel fronds. These small touches make a big difference to how the finished dish looks. Caring about details like these is a game-changer.…

1 If your beans and peas are a little older than you’d like, a fresh minted purée is called for. Fry thinly sliced onion and slivers of garlic in lots of butter until soft and translucent. Add the podded beans and peas with a good dash of well flavoured vegetable stock. Cook until tender, then purée them with fresh mint, parsley, salt and pepper and some more cold butter. Serve with fish or roast ham. 2 For a stunning summer starter, grill a slice of good bread, sprinkle with olive oil and salt, then rub with garlic and spread thickly with a fresh soft goat’s cheese. Pile on blanched broad beans and peas before draping a slice of good air-dried ham over the top. 3 Homemade taramasalata (I have a…

THE MAGIC OF MARINADES How does a marinade add flavour/texture to food cooked on the barbecue? Here’s a quick guide to how the ingredients work • SALT It’s essential in any marinade and not just for seasoning. It helps the meat absorb the marinade by the process of osmosis. The salt first draws out moisture from the meat. After 20-30 minutes the salty liquid is then re-absorbed by osmosis and begins to break down the protein structure of the meat, creating tiny gaps for the marinade to fill, giving juicy, well seasoned meat. • ACIDS AND ENZYMES Acidic ingredients such as vinegar, wine and fruit juice act as tenderising agents, as do pineapple, papaya, guava and ginger, which contain natural enzymes. By helping to break down tough proteins in meat,…

1 Alison Roman’s salted butter and chocolate chunk shortbread 2 Marcella Hazan’s tomato sauce with butter and onion 3 Sarah Kieffer’s pan-banging cookies 4 Alison Roman’s spiced chickpea stew with coconut and turmeric 5 Taming Twins’ Crème Egg cheesecake 6 Pinch of Nom’s syn free bacon, onion and potato bake 7 Edd Kimber’s brownie crinkle cookies 8 BOSH’s guacajacks (baked sweet potatoes with guacamole) 9 Natalie Seldon’s hasselback sweet potatoes 10 Love and Lemons’ vegan pasta shells…

Using a banana to seal the rolls is a Thai technique that makes sure the pastry sticks without drying it out. If you don’t have a digital thermometer, dip the tip of a wooden chopstick or skewer into the oil. When it starts to fizz or bubble around the tip after 2-3 seconds the oil is the right temperature. The spring rolls should sink to the bottom of the pan at the start of frying; this means they’re tightly sealed and airtight. Just make sure you turn them regularly using tongs or chopsticks for even cooking. After washing your wok, dry it over a hot hob; it’s much more efficient and reliable than drying it with a tea towel, which can cause your wok to rust.…

• Buy the best quality meat you can afford. It makes such a difference – the proof is in the eating (and the crackling!). • Leaving the pork in the fridge overnight allows the skin to dry properly. This is the first step to crunchy crackling. • Cooking the pork at a high heat initially gives the crackling a kickstart. Turning it down low for a long, slow cook keeps the meat moist and juicy. • Cut the pork crackling-side down to help keep slices even and the crackling intact. • Pairing rich pork belly with sweet-sharp peaches and bitter chard cuts through the fat and adds complementary flavours.…

“I moved to the UK from Italy five years ago, and if I get homesick I cook something that reminds me of my home country. This recipe was passed on to me by my godmother, Mimma, who comes from Puglia in southern Italy. The smell of this focaccia as it bakes instantly makes me think of Mimma. She’s a great cook and her hearty southern Italian cooking is a crowdpleaser. It’s so addictive that I once drove over 600km by myself just to see her and eat her delicious focaccia. Growing up in Italy, fresh seasonal food was abundant – and the women in my family have inspired me with their passion for feeding others. We make this recipe whenever we have a big family party. Even my brother knows…

KEY STEPS FOR SUCCESS (and how to avoid a molten mess) • Make sure the sugar has fully dissolved in step 6. If it hasn’t, the meringue topping will be grainy. • Pour the sugar syrup into the egg whites – not onto the whisk – in a slow, steady stream to ensure it’s evenly incorporated. The heat of the syrup will also ‘cook’ the egg whites as it’s beaten in, which is what gives Italian meringue its wonderful texture. • Don’t remove the ice cream pie from the freezer until the whisked meringue is fully cooled and you’re ready to turn on the blowtorch. • Timing is crucial with a baked Alaska, but this version is more forgiving because it doesn’t go in the oven, plus the ice cream…

Slim measuring spoons Make sure they can fit inside a spice jar and nest together for storage Spoon-shaped silicon spatula Helps scrape every drop of sauce or batter from the bowl, while the spoon shape holds more of it Pastry brush that doesn’t moult We rate the Matfer 4cm flat bristle brush, £5.99, from nisbets.co.uk Sturdy silicone tongs For lifting spaghetti from boiling water, tossing salads and turning food while frying. The silicone ends ensure pans don’t get scratched Durable measuring jug Make sure it can hold hot liquid, has easy-to-read measurements and can go in the dishwasher…

Surrounded by the rolling Dorset hills near the village of Evershot, the Grade II-listed Summer Lodge Country House Hotel & Spa combines traditional style and comfort with innovative menus. The Relais & Châteaux boutique hotel is set in four acres of gardens with a spa, indoor pool, tennis court and acres of countryside to explore. Our winner and guest will also enjoy a three-course dinner at the hotel’s three-AA-Rosette restaurant, where chef Steven Titman uses local produce (some from the hotel’s kitchen garden) to create his modern British dishes. The excellent food is complemented by world-class wines chosen by sommelier Eric Zwiebel. summerlodgehotel.co.uk FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN , re-create any recipe from this July issue, take a picture and upload it at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/cooktherecipe*. MAY’S WINNER • Andrew Lines wins a…

A few hundred metres downstream from Northern Ireland’s Lough Neagh, a metal weir stretches partway across the River Bann. On certain nights each autumn, a series of nets is lowered into the water. When they’re raised, they’re filled with a tangle of silvery eels. The wild eel fishery at Lough Neagh is the largest in Europe, producing about 400 tonnes each year. Some are eaten locally, others are shipped to east London where they’re transformed into jellied eels. Many, though, are destined for Holland, where they’re slowly smoked on wooden racks to produce a rich and highly prized delicacy. The quality and heritage of these eels have won them PGI status as a protected regional food product. Lough Neagh has been associated with eel fishing ever since the fishing rights…

RECIPE: LUCAS HOLLWEG. RECIPE PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Smoked eel with champ cakes SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15-20 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Shape the champ cakes and make the horseradish cream a day ahead. Keep covered separately in the fridge. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you can’t get fresh horseradish, mix hot horseradish sauce (we like Tracklements) with a little cream and mustard and season to taste. • 4 small or 2 large sustainable smoked eel fillets, divided in 2 lengthways (and halved if large) FOR THE CHAMP CAKES • 150ml semi-skimmed milk • 8 spring onions, finely sliced • 750g floury potatoes (such as desiree or maris piper), peeled and cut into 4-5cm chunks • 2 tsp wholegrain mustard…

Season’s eatings What’s at its best right now – and why it’s so good for you SAMPHIRE The poetic name of this briny vegetable speaks of sea air and goodness, and it delivers on flavour and nutrients, too. There are two kinds – marsh and rock – but the former is what’s widely available now. The delicate asparagus-like stalks are high in minerals including magnesium, sodium, calcium and potassium. They also deliver a healthy dose of fibre. HOW TO ENJOY Samphire is best eaten very fresh, and look for the British-grown stuff, not the imported variety. When added raw to salads it delivers salty crunch and is a loving companion to fish or lamb. Wash well to remove grit and sand, then lightly steam or sauté, toss with butter, a…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH.PHOTOGRAPH: NASSIMA ROTHACKER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Surf and turf pasta SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Try a handful of rocket or spinach instead of watercress, if you like. • 80g linguine • 1 chorizo cooking sausage (about 50g) • 2 tbsp olive oil • 6 sustainable raw tiger prawns, peeled • Small handful watercress • A few shavings manchego or mature cheddar 1 Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water according to the pack instructions. Drain, reserving 100ml of the cooking water. 2 Meanwhile, remove the outer casing from the chorizo and roughly chop the sausage. Heat a splash of the oil in a large frying pan, then fry the chorizo for a few minutes, breaking it…

ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES The alkaline diet theory has formed the basis of various alternative health philosophies for decades: some foods are acid-causing (bad!), others are alkalising (good!) and the right balance is needed for optimum health. The approach was popularised by Robert O Young in the US, whose best-selling book The pH Miracle: Balance Your Diet, Reclaim Your Health was first published in 2002 and has since been translated into several languages. At this point I should note that, in 2016, Young was convicted of practising medicine without a licence and later sentenced to three years and eight months in prison. One claim that currently appears on a pro-alkaline diet website states: “Virtually all degenerative diseases including cancer, heart disease, arthritis, osteoporosis, kidney and gallstones and tooth decay are associated…

Strawberry and elderflower sorbet SERVES 6 (MAKES ABOUT 1 LITRE). HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, PLUS CHURNING, FREEZING AND 2 HOURS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD The sorbet will keep in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. After that it will still be okay to eat but won’t have as good a texture. NEXT TIME TRY Instead of the elderflower syrup, make a simple 1:1 syrup: warm 180g sugar and 180g water in a pan over a low heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you don’t have an ice cream maker, pour the purée into the container, then freeze for 5-6 hours, stirring every hour or so with a fork (or whizzing in a mixing bowl with an electric mixer) to break up any ice crystals that…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. To ensure testers can’t influence each other, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during tests. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR A good veggie burger should provide a satisfying, well seasoned bite and be firm but moist. Those made with meat-alternative proteins should have deep savouriness. Veg-based burgers need to be flavourful and well balanced. VEG-BASED 1ST PLACE Ocado Vegan Mushroom, Lentil & Quinoa Burgers, £1.99 for 227g/2 Vg Well seasoned with herby, umami flavour. The quinoa provides good texture. JOINT 3RD PLACE Biona Organic Sweet Potato Buckwheat Burger, £4.09 for 160g/2, Ocado Vg Moist with a pleasant, savoury veg taste, but small and…

To call Thessaloniki Greece’s second city is to damn it with faint praise. It may not inspire instant awe like Venice or Cape Town, but once I got to know it I was hooked. It has an astounding number of restaurants and bars, a vibrant music scene, and a 2,300-year-plus history on proud display. It’s a pleasant surprise to be gazing upon dazzlingly ornate Byzantine churches and sober Roman ruins among the everyday trappings of a modern European city. Since the 2008 financial crisis, Greece has struggled economically. Away from the brushed-up tourist centres and swanky shopping hotspots of Tsimiski, Thessaloniki’s main shopping street, the number of derelict, graffiti-covered shop-fronts hints at hard times. Yet this city has been faced with hardships and overcome them before. After being devastated in…

MEZEDES The Arabs, Greeks and Turks all rightly lay claim to inventing small mezze dishes. TYROPITA, SPANAKOPITA Pies. Popular all over Greece. Tyropita (cheese pies) are the most popular, with spanakopita (spinach) a close second. KRASI VARELISIO Literally ‘wine from the barrel’ – house wine often served in metal pots. MELI Honey. Mellifluous comes originally from Greek. NOSITMA! Delicious! YAMMAS! Cheers! GALAKTOBOUREKO Milk borek is one of the many desserts you’ll find in a galaktopoleion (dairy café). It’s filo pastry filled with semolina custard. CAFE HELLENIKO Greek coffee, served with a glass of water. Order it sketo, metrio, or glyko (no sugar, medium or sweet). TO LOGIARISMO, PARAKALO The bill, please S’AGAPO I love you. If you hear this, your host has had one too many ouzos.…

• City Hotel has a top location, a short walk from the centre, Modiano market and the seafront. Worth an upgrade to a junior suite with a sea view. Doubles from £95, junior suites from £141 B&B; cityhotel.gr • The Excelsior is a small, upscale, stylish and centrally located hotel, with a roof garden serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Doubles from £117 B&B; excelsiorhotel.gr delicious. travelled to Thessaloniki courtesy of Sunvil (sunvil.co.uk). In July, a two-night B&B stay at the City Hotel with return flights (London Gatwick) and airport transfers costs from £684pp (based on two sharing).…

RECIPE ADAPTED FROM MAZI: MODERN GREEK FOOD BY CHRISTINA MOURATOGLOU & ADRIEN CARRÉ (MITCHELL BEAZLEY £25).FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: NICOLAS BUISSON. FOOD STYLING: JOHN SKOTIDAS. STYLING: LAURA FYE AND JESSICA GEORGIADES Sweet bougatsa with chocolate milk SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 15-17 MIN • 270g pack filo pastry • 100g unsalted butter, melted FOR THE CHOCOLATE MILK • 800ml semi-skimmed milk • 50g cocoa powder • 30g runny honey • 60g caster sugar FOR THE PASTRY CREAM • 500ml semi-skimmed milk • 150g caster sugar • 4 medium free-range egg yolks • 30g fine semolina • 30g cornflour • ½ vanilla pod, split lengthways and seeds scraped out (or 1–2 tsp vanilla extract) • Finely grated zest ½ lemon • Finely grated zest ½ orange TO SERVE • Icing…