Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2017 i Delicious UK

The easy one… MALTESER BROWNIES MAKE 16. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 40 MIN, PLUS 4 HOURS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Make up to 24 hours in advance and keep in the fridge, unsliced. Alternatively, cool, wrap generously in cling film and freeze for up to 2 months. Heat the oven to 170°C/150°C fan/gas 3½. Line a 20cm x 20cm square brownie tin with non-stick baking paper. Put 200g unsalted butter and 200g good-quality dark chocolate (at least 70% cocoa solids) in a heatproof mixing bowl set over a pan of simmering water, making sure the bowl isn’t touching the water. Meanwhile, in another mixing bowl, combine 3 large eggs with 200g golden caster sugar. When the chocolate mixture has melted, stir it into the egg mixture with 50g plain…

RECIPES THAT WORK Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, using state-of-the-art Electrolux ovens, so you can be confident they work every time. INGREDIENTS We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find any unusual ingredients and/or what to substitute them with. We use higher-welfare meat for testing, supplied by The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk). ✪ This symbol next to an ingredient means there are more ideas for using it on our Loose Ends page. HONEST COOKING TIMES Unlike many magazines, our timings include prep such as chopping. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring or frying. Oven/simmering time is when you can leave the dish in the oven or on the hob. Indicates a vegetarian recipe. Indicates a gluten-free recipe. KNOW-HOW Whenever you see…

Restaurateur James Ramsden, our London trendspotter, tracks down a hot Hawaiian The trend is poké, pronounced poh-kay, as I’m sure you already know. Just as no doubt you also know that ceviche and sushi are, like, so over, and that it’s now all about this Hawaiian iteration of the globally popular raw fish trend. I’m into it. You get a bit more bang for your buck – the garnish tends to be more extravagant, there’s usually rice involved… in many ways it’s bowl food for foodies. Black Roe (blackroe.com) in Mayfair is a good place to start. I’d recommend the classic ahi poké, with its well-balanced roasted sesame and soy marinade. Ahi (yellowfin tuna) is the fish most commonly associated with poké, and it’s that which gives its name to…

THE BRITISH TABLE £30, Abrams In this thoroughly readable new book, US-based author Colman Andrews explores the traditional food and cooking of Scotland, England and Wales. He does so with a fresh eye and plenty of fascinating detail. As well as the expected recipes for Bakewell tart, Lancashire hotpot and Cornish pasties, there are short, well-researched essays on Indian food, builder’s tea and the Great British Bake Off phenomenon. A timely reminder of how much we have to be proud of. TO ENTER, GO TO   deliciousmagazine.co.uk/cookthecover NOVEMBER’S WINNER • Maria Dernikos wins a Sage Barista Coffee Machine for her lemon curd meringue pies.…

“These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to… Joy! We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money do they get the delicious. seal of approval.” KAREN BARNES, EDITOR DRY IT WELL If your tea towels need a refresh after the rigours of Christmas, this screen-printed seed heads design (mustard or turquoise) is a smart choice. The (100%) cotton has a quality heft to it, and there’s a hook for hanging. £8, jennidouglas.co.uk The colours of happiness Crackle-glazed and slightly wonky in shape, these stoneware bowls in glowing, jewel-bright shades are a welcome daub of good-cheer colour when everything outside…

THE TIPS From expert teacher Matthew Gojevic • Fish curry may sound tricky, but it’s fast because the fish cooks in a matter of minutes. Make the sauce first, then add the fish at the end so it doesn’t overcook. • It’s vital to cook the onion gently until it’s soft and translucent before you add anything else. This is key to all dishes that have cooked onions as their base. • Frying the spices first stops the curry having a raw taste – but take care not to burn them. THE RECIPE Fish and tomato curry SERVES 3-4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Prefer it hotter? Use hot curry powder or fry 1 chopped red chilli with the ginger and garlic. •  2 tbsp vegetable or sunflower…

Following last year’s successful launch of the delicious. Produce Awards, the competition is back and promises to be even bigger and better. The aim of the Awards, in association with home appliance company Fisher & Paykel (see below right), is to find and celebrate small-scale, artisan producers from throughout the UK. In 2016 we unearthed some fantastic food stories. See right to read what a few of last year’s winners had to say, and look out for in-depth stories on all the 2016 Produce Awards winners throughout the year in delicious. magazine. Are you a producer? Do you grow, rear or make a British product you’re proud of? Does your dedication and skill make your product stand out? Are quality and sustainability essential to your ethos? If so, enter the…

“This is a classic slow-roast shoulder of lamb, and one I love to do for all the family on a Sunday. It’s an all-in-one-dish, and is easy to carve and serve.”MARY BERRY Lamb boulangère SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 6 HOURS 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD You can give the lamb and veg their first roasting up to 6 hours ahead. Cool, then chill. Slow roast as in the recipe. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS If you’re buying British lamb it might be hogget at this time of year – it’s good for this recipe, as it has a strong flavour. It’s up to you whether you use waxy or floury potatoes. We tested with floury and they were great, although they broke down a little. Waxy would be…

“It takes more than 235 litres of water to grow a single 200g avocado” Modern middle-class kitchen staples (So healthy! So now!) are implicated in crimes against the planet. Food crazes in the West lead to rocketing demand and spiralling prices. There’s then a rush to cash in and produce more in the developing countries where many of these crops are grown. Before you can say “soya latte”, large areas of land are turned into monocultures. That devotion to growing a single crop can leave the plants – and the land’s inhabitants – vulnerable to the vagaries of crop failure. And if that weren’t bad enough, many of these trendy products should carry extra environmental health warnings. It’s time to take off our Instagram-tinted glasses and look at the bigger…

A BIT ABOUT HARRY Ms Eastwood is a food writer and cookbook author who’s appeared on numerous TV food programmes and series. When she was in her early 20s, she moonlighted as an apprentice butcher at London’s Smithfield Market. She now lives in Paris, and Carneval is her fourth book. “I hope this carefully put together collection of tips and essential recipes provides you with the kind of lasting joy that comes from appreciating great meat, carefully sourced, expertly butchered and cooked with love. Meat should be seen as a luxury product. It’s not meant to be eaten every day and it’s not meant to be cheap, but when you cook a great quality steak and cook it well, the result is a treat to be properly savoured.” HARRY EASTWOOD…

As with many a fine food (tarte tatin, champagne, caesar salad…) the origins of gorgonzola are shrouded in myth. According to legend this classic northern Italian blue cheese was created by accident when a lovelorn dairyman neglected his evening cheesemaking duties in favour of his lover’s embrace. He tried to hide his neglectfulness by mixing the curds that had formed during the night with that morning’s milk. A few weeks later, that particular cheese developed blue veins – and tasted all the better for it. It’s a story that’s as cheesy as gorgonzola itself and it bears an uncanny similarity to the one behind how roquefort cheese was ‘discovered’ by a similarly amorous Frenchman. I’ll leave you to draw your own conclusions. To separate myth from fact, I paid a…

“If you’re cooking for two, as I often am, roasting a chicken is a wonderful thing to do at the weekend... Not only do you enjoy the roast dinner, but you also get leftovers to make into other meals. In case you need inspiration, I’ve created three ideas that go way beyond chicken sandwiches.” LOTTIE COVELL, ACTING FOOD LIFESTYLE EDITOR Three great ideas for the leftovers… THE ROAST Beer and shallot chicken SERVES 2 WITH LEFTOVERS (OR 4 WITH NONE). HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS RESTING MAKE AHEAD Prepare the veg and sauce up to 24 hours ahead, then cover and chill. Put in a roasting tin, top with the chicken and continue. •  Olive oil for frying and roasting• 300g shallots, peeled and halved• 3 carrots, roughly…

You’ve got your morning routine down to a tee, right? And that probably involves having the same breakfast in the same way every day – but you don’t have to make major changes to liven things up. Whether it’s an early start with a bowl of porridge or a quick top-up straight after the gym, Alpro has you covered. With its great-tasting and healthy* plant-based range, you can change your breakfast every day. Why not try pouring deliciously healthy** Alpro Almond Unsweetened drink over cereal and a handful of fresh blueberries. A swirl of fibre-rich Alpro Oat Original drink will add an oaty twist to muesli and sliced banana. Meanwhile, mild and smooth Alpro Simply Plain soya alternative to yogurt, is rich in plant protein. It’s super tasty served with…

The ease of bowl food, whether it’s a simple soup or pasta dish or a meal that combines grains, vegetables and filling protein, makes this style of cooking an enticing choice. The prep is easy, the dishes look great and the simplicity of the recipes saves time. Here, I’ve gathered together some of my favourite vegetarian single-bowl ideas that layer up the textures and flavours. It’s all about the balance. MEET NINA She’s a food lover, blogger, art director/ designer and avid photographer, who was brought up in Stockholm and now lives in Amsterdam. These recipes are from her first cookbook. Leek and almond soup SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN “This comforting potato and leek soup is always a hit. The leeks give a wonderful flavour and the potatoes…

In fan-assisted ovens the temperature, in theory, on all shelves should be about the same. With standard gas and electric ovens (without a fan), which rack you choose can make a difference… THE TOP The main heating element (or gas burner) is usually at the bottom but because heat rises, the hottest air accumulates at the top. Best for Browning and crisping the pastry bases of tarts and flans. THE MIDDLE This is the ‘goldilocks zone’, where the temperature is neither too hot nor too cool and the hot air circulates well, cooking at an even heat. Best for Most things cook well here but it’s particularly suitable for cakes and bakes, because of the steady temperature. If you need to bake two things at once – a couple of…

• When incorporating the butter into the dough (step 2), make sure the butter really is at room temperature or it won’t mix in properly. Give it at least an hour out of the fridge. Don’t microwave it to soften it, as too-warm butter will make the dough greasy. • Let the chocolate filling cool (step 3) to the point where it’s still fluid and only just warm. If it gets too cold it will seize (turn hard) so warm it up again gently, stirring over a low heat. • The dough is very soft, so flour the work surface and rolling pin generously when rolling (step 4). • As the dough is so soft it might stretch when twisting (step 5), but don’t worry. It will look much neater…

Comfort & warmth That’s the theme for this first issue of the year. It’s about keeping hold of good cheer, not depressing yourself with resolutions you know will be impossible to keep. Rather than focusing on unrealistic goals borne out of a sense of duty, far better to dream about the things you’d love to do – with a healthy dose of fresh air mixed in. Food writer Signe Johansen, a voice of sanity, takes that tack on p22 – a breath of fresh air in itself. There’s no denying it’s tricky, though. We’ve just left behind the joyous Christmas festivities – season of goodwill and, yes, indulgence – and I’m the first to admit I struggle with my weight… So what’s the solution? What we hope we’ve…

STAR EMAIL SUBJECT: Christmas to your door FROM : Sarah Harrop Thank you for rekindling a festive memory [December, p6]. Back in the 1980s my mother and I were Christmas shopping at our local M&S in Bristol. Our attention was caught by a miniature living Christmas tree – a novelty back then – and we set about selecting the best one, only to hear a lovely Scottish voice praising the trees and saying how perfect one would be for the “dressing room”. Looking around, we were delighted to see Lulu, the star of the show that was on at the Bristol Hippodrome. We didn’t ask for an autograph but I treasure the memory. Mum planted the tree and it thrived, growing to 30ft plus. Thirty years on, however, the tree…

TOP GREENGROCER Turnips at Borough Market (turnips boroughmarket.com) has great a selection of local produce. FOODIE TREAT FOR UNDER £10 My husband and I love to go to White Mulberries (white mulberries.com), an independent coffee shop in St Katharine Docks. FAVOURITE FOOD MARKET Billingsgate Fish Market for all things seafood. I’ve shopped there ever since the Brick Lane days. NEXT RESTAURANT ON MY ‘TO VISIT’ LIST K-Place Korean BBQ near Monument Station (kplace.co.uk). I’ve heard many great things about it. BEST PLACE TO BUY SPECIALIST INGREDIENTS New Loon Moon in Chinatown (newloonmoon.com). This is by far my favourite grocery to grab any fresh and frozen Asian fruits and vegetables. They even have kaffir limes and lesser galangal – both are key ingredients for my curry paste. BEST PLACE TO GO…

“Storing saucepans can be problematic if you have a small kitchen, as I do. They take up lots of room – then there’s the problem of lids cascading from cupboards when you open the door. This Stellar pan has a flat lid that sits flush on top, with a concealed opening so you can drain whatever it is you’re cooking. The star selling point, though, is that the handle of the lid fits snugly over the handle of the pan so you can hold the lid in place, tip and drain, all with one hand – and no need for a space-guzzling colander, either. Clever.” Draining saucepans from £40 for a 16cm pan. Visit stellarcookware.co.uk for stockists…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. And to prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during the tests, so the results you read below are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR Move over peanut butter – there are a host of nut spreads filling up supermarket shelves, from almond to hazelnut. A good one should be moreish, with a natural nutty flavour, and neither too salty nor too sweet. Bitterness was a no-no, and consistency was key – thick enough to spread but not gluey. ALMOND BUTTER WINNER Pip & Nut Almond Butter, £3.99 for 250g, Ocado Super smooth, with a toasted almond flavour. The…

“The work can be heartbreaking, but it saves lives” LISA MARKWELL, JOURNALIST AND CHEF IN TRAINING “In 2014 I was invited by Action Against Hunger to travel to Rajasthan in India to see the work they were doing, while raising money by cycling around the country. I have a dread of exercise, but I also knew about the levels of child malnutrition in India. When I got to the hospital in Baran district, Rajasthan, it was clear how important every £1 of sponsorship money is for the children there. Their lives had been transformed by the charity’s work. Usually we were fuelled by veggie street food, but one day we cycled to a once grand, now slightly tired hotel and had chicken and chips. It was fantastic. Memories of…

“These juicy little oranges bring a much-needed lift to winter cooking. Their vibrant colour and zingy tang are what everyone needs in the dark days of January and February. They also have the virtue of being easier to cook with than regular oranges – the obliging peel comes off easily, the pith has none of the bitterness of clementines’ larger cousins, and the flavour lends itself equally well to sweet and savoury dishes.” LOTTIE COVELL, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Clementine and bay marmalade MAKES AROUND 1 LITRE. HANDS-ON TIME 60 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 60 MIN, PLUS SOAKING AND COOLING KNOW-HOW Preserving sugar has large, slow-dissolving crystals that reduce the risk of burning and the need to stir too much, and produce less froth during boiling for a clearer result. For a…

2017 is the 50th anniversary of one of the country’s best restaurants: London’s Le Gavroche. To mark the start of the celebrations, we talked to Michel Roux Jr about this momentous year and found out what head chef Rachel Humphrey cooks when she’s not whipping up French classics at work. Here, she’s created a menu that makes clever use of favourite festive leftovers: those foil-wrapped parcels of turkey and ham squirrelled away in the freezer from the Christmas lunch, the overly generous hunk of cheese you bought for Boxing Day, the remains of which is sitting in the fridge, and that jar of mincemeat you’re not sure what to do with. If you’re imagining fancy-pants cheffy recipes, think again – this is classic, crowd-pleasing comfort food THE ULTIMATE LEFTOVERS MENU…

MID WEEK PROMISE Your guarantee for every recipe in this section: NO MORE THAN… • 10 ingredients• 30 min hands-on time• 650 calories per portion (but many of the recipes have fewer)• 10g sat fat per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar• Minimal washing up Chicken and leek pie SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 20-25 MIN THE SWAP We used filo pastry, which is made with a little oil, rather than shortcrust (which is made with butter or lard) to reduce the fat content without sacrificing the crisp topping. NEXT TIME Use chopped pork loin instead of chicken thigh fillets. •  2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing• 4 small carrots, cut into 2cm pieces• 4 leeks, finely sliced• 6 British free-range skinless and boneless chicken thigh fillets, cut into 3cm pieces• 2 tbsp dijon…

Clarifying separates the clear butterfat from the water and white milk solids. Clarified butter is less likely to burn and keeps for longer than ordinary butter. Learning how to clarify butter is an essential technique for making classic sauces such as hollandaise and béarnaise (see p64) 1 Cut the butter into small cubes and put them in the saucepan. 2 Heat the pan very gently (see opposite) to slowly melt the butter without letting it brown. 3 Using a slotted spoon, carefully skim off the foam that rises to the surface. 4 Gently ladle the clarified butter into a bowl, filtering it through a fine-mesh sieve. Don’t disturb the milk solids at the bottom of the pan, which can be discarded.…

“Parathas are an integral part of the cooking of the Punjab, where my mum was born. When I was growing up in West Bengal, we had a neighbour who was from Bihar, who introduced Mum to sattu parathas, the most popular style of paratha there. Sattu is prepared by dry-roasting Bengal gram (dried chickpeas), then grinding them to a fine, dark flour and using it in the filling. This version, using bought gram flour, is quicker but no less flavourful. Mum would make parathas every weekend with different fillings and pickles. My friends loved coming to my house to eat them.” A BIT ABOUT ROMY... She’s the owner and chef of the popular Romy’s Kitchen restaurant in Thornbury, Bristol. She was born in West Bengal, India, and moved to the…

Movie magic There’s nothing food-related in the film Denial, but start with a pre-theatre dinner (visit delicious magazine.co.uk for a round-up of Michelin-star deals) and make a big night of it. The film is based on the true story of historian Deborah Lipstadt’s court battle against Holocaust denier David Irving (Timothy Spall), who brought a libel suit against her in 1996. The film also stars Rachel Weisz as Lipstadt and Tom Wilkinson as her defence barrister. It’s gripping stuff, even if it’s divided the critics. An eye-opening read Science writer Gary Taubes has made it his business to challenge the received thinking when it comes to what we eat. His new book, The Case Against Sugar (£14.99, Portobello; out in paperback 5 Jan), is sobering reading. Surely balance is still…

January 19-21 Manchester Beer & Cider Festival Grab your souvenir glass and try out more than 600 beers, ciders and perries from the UK and beyond. Industry experts and new brewers will be on hand for Q&As and tastings, with books and beer memorabilia to take home. From £7 including souvenir glass; mancbeerfest.uk 21-22 National Botanic Garden of Wales January Food Fair Step inside the largest single-span glasshouse on earth for this celebration of Welsh produce, where you can stock up on cheese, beer, biscuits and more. £3; botanicgarden.wales/visit/whats-on 27-29 The France Show, Olympia London Experience life à la française with wine tastings, a classic French market and travel tips from the experts. Don’t miss delicious. wine editor Susy Atkins discussing the best in Gallic wines…

CHILDHOOD COOKERY LESSONS When I was at school in Montevideo, Uruguay, my mother had a cook. The kitchen was a place I was always welcome. There was a little round marrow called zapallito and I was allowed to stuff it with rice, eggs and herbs. The chemistry of cooking made it magic for me. DOMESTIC WISDOM When I was 16 and back in England, I was sent to the Eastbourne School of Domestic Economy. I think my mother was hoping I’d learn to make canapés and arrange flowers. But instead I learned to cook for the Navy, iron a shirt and prepare a room for the chimney sweep. SET-UP SUPPERS I lived in my own flat in London in the 1960s and was into Elizabeth David before everyone else. It…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHERE River Cottage, Axminster, Devon THE COURSE One-day Cookery Course, £240 (includes lunch with wine) TESTED BY Kathleen Silverfield WHAT IT’S LIKE I felt as if I’d died and gone to foodie heaven when I arrived at River Cottage. The only thing more breathtaking than the rolling Devon countryside, which sits as a backdrop to the cookery school, were the dishes I prepared and ate that day. As for the course, its simplicity struck me most. The stripped-down curriculum covers the basics of cookery in an eye-opening way; it equips you with the knowledge to cook the dishes taught on the day (of course), but also gives you some solid skills and the confidence to branch out and try new recipes – maybe even improvise a bit…

“January is the time to find joy in simple pleasures” Welco me to 2017, folks! We made it through the festive season – although many of us may have waddled rather than sashayed into the new year (thank heavens all that fashionable velvet has a little give to it), and perhaps a few are feeling the effects of a festive tidal wave of prosecco. So it’s bleak outside, all you can afford is baked beans and you’re feeling a little glum. But listen, if you want every day to be a duvet day, maybe it’s time to toughen up, snowflake. Yes, 2017 is shaping up to be a tough year, but it’s time to shed that self-indulgence, draw comfort and strength from family and friends, and build up stores of…

Vacherin pithivier with caramelised onions and bacon SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 30-35 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Freeze the unbaked pithivier, then cook from frozen for 40-45 minutes, covering loosely with foil if it starts to become too dark. KNOWHOW Vacherin is a soft, washed-rind cow’s milk cheese made in the Jura mountains of France and Switzerland. It’s available only from September to March, wrapped in spruce, which gives the rind a resinous flavour. It’s available from good cheesemongers and some supermarkets but if you can’t find it, go for a Tunworth (from Hampshire) or a camembert. A pithivier is a French puff pastry pie. The best-known version, galette des rois, is sweet, but pithiviers can be savoury, too. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS You’ll have pastry left…

“I say it every year but, oh, how I love winter cookery: long, dark nights filled with the warm, teasing aromas of rum and ginger syrup or the soothing fragrance of a beef casserole bubbling gently on the hob… It’s about taking time to develop flavour with slow-cooked cuts of meat, beautiful fresh fish from icy waters, and simple root vegetables enriched with cheese, mayonnaise and spices. If you hate the bitter weather, a warm kitchen is the best place to be, so make the most of it: get the oven on and create joy with your wooden spoon.” REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR Bullshot beef pie with cauliflower cheese mash SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 3 HOURS, OVEN TIME 30-35 MIN MAKE AHEAD The filling and topping…

“Rain, wind, hail, snow… January weather can be unpredictable at best, terrible at worst. On a cold, grey Sunday, there’s nothing better than snuggling down in front of the fire (if you have one) or with a duvet (if you don’t!) to watch a good movie. Instead of diving for the not-quite-so-good-for-you snacks, cook up some fill-your-boots comfort dishes that will warm you through to your bones; bowl food you can eat on your lap – or on a tray, using just a fork and a spoon. Here are four of my favourites.” DEBBIE MAJOR RAINY DAY FILMS Debbie’s top picks • Truly Madly Deeply• Atonement• Mamma Mia!• The Station Agent• Howards End• Sense and Sensibility• Big Night• Life is Beautiful• Notting Hill• Jane Eyre (2011 version)• The Lives of Others (German/ subtitled)• Mostly Martha (German/ subtitled)• Tea with Mussolini Coconut curry noodle…

My mother was born in 1934, in China, where her father worked for Shell Oil Company. My grandmother was a wonderful cook and years later could still turn out a Chinese banquet with all the trimmings on her Essex farm. My mother learned to cook from her. When Mum was living on a shoestring in the early Seventies she used that know-how and her experience to write The Pauper’s Cookbook (1971), which became a kitchen classic. It’s full of brilliant recipes, most of them pretty simple, for things you like but might have forgotten, such as bacon and potato hotpot, penne all’arrabbiata and Maryland chicken. And it’s all wonderfully cheap. Peking duck is a pauper’s feast, and by popular demand we have it on…

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE TEAM It’s a cliché but it’s true. It’s important to have longstanding members of staff like Rachel – she’s part of the family. It’s her restaurant. That goes for a lot of the staff – we have a kitchen porter who’s been with us for 25 years. NEVER FORGET THE CUSTOMER A lot of people are daunted the first time they come to Le Gavroche – we have to put them at ease straightaway. I try to be the ideal host. I meet and greet people, as well as doing a little bit of cooking myself. THE WHOLE PACKAGE It’s not just about what’s on the plate, although that’s important – it’s about the whole experience, about hospitality and conviviality. Whether you’re in for the business…

EVERYDAY BARGAIN • Morrisons Pinot Grigio 2015, Moldova (£4) Fresh apple and guava flavours. A refreshingly different Moldovan wine. • Valle Antigua Chardonnay 2016, Chile (£7.99, or £5.99 each until 31 January in a mixed case of 6, Majestic) A gentle chardonnay tinged with pineapple and mango. Enjoy on its own or match with simple chicken or salmon dishes. • Cellier des Dauphins 2015, Coteaux des Baronnies, Rhône, France (£6.99, Waitrose) Great price on a smooth, ripe, classy Rhône Valley red. Expect rich plums with hints of black pepper. Made for roast beef or red meat casseroles. MIDWEEK TREAT • Peter Yealands Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Marlborough, New Zealand (£8, Sainsbury’s) Bright and vivacious with tangy passionfruit and citrus. Stands up well to spiced fish and seafood. • Asado Club Malbec 2015, Argentina (£8, Morrisons) This…

COOK’S TIP If you’re adding booze to a recipe, keep a small splash back to add at the last minute – it will boost the depth of flavour and adds vital last-minute acidity to a dish to balance it nicely. THE SCIENCE BIT MAKING FRESH EGGS EASIER TO PEEL Does boiling fresh eggs with added bicarbonate of soda make them easier to peel? THE THEORY Harold McGee, fount of all wisdom when it comes to the science of cooking, says that adding ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda to the cooking water makes the egg shells easier to remove. The explanation? In very fresh eggs, the whites (or albumen) have a relatively acidic pH, so they cling to the shell when cooked. As they age, they become more alkaline, less likely…

“As the latest rediscovered tea time treat, babka is having a bit of a moment. Its roots lie in Eastern European and Jewish baking and it straddles the line between a yeasted bread and a cake, with beautiful swirly layers” of cinnamon-laced chocolate. It’s not the quickest thing to make and the dough can be tricky to handle, but one’s thing’s for sure: no one will be able to stop at just one slice. For baking fans, this is one challenge that’s worth rising to.” ELLA TARN, COOKERY ASSISTANT Chocolate babka MAKES 1 LOAF (SERVES 8-10). HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS RISING, PROVING, CHILLING AND COOLING MAKE AHEAD Babka is best eaten on the day it’s made, but it will keep for up to 24 hours…

“My cooking career started out in a ski chalet in Courchevel, so I have many memories of the French Alps. However, since most of them feature hangovers, kitchen disasters, crying into undercooked turkey crowns and downing far too many toffee vodkas, it’s understandable that I’d never considered the famed Three Valleys ski area a foodie haven. If you have the money, you can dine well (the resort is famously the haunt of Russian oligarchs and their lady friends), but what if you want to go for a holiday that won’t cost you an arm and a Moncler-clad leg? That distinctly British concept, the catered chalet holiday, held no appeal for me after I’d hung up my chalet-girl apron. I’d loudly affirm to anyone who’d listen that I preferred the freedom…

Behind the veneer of effortless wellbeing lurks bad science Clean eating, we are told, is the new path to a happy, healthy lifestyle. Constant dieting, the grim but essential lifestyle accessory of 1980s and 1990s celebrities, has been abandoned by the millennial generation in favour of the effortless perfection of a wellness-centred lifestyle. Dozens of shiny new healthy-food gurus fill the pages of our magazines, newspapers and airwaves telling us about their food philosophies, their natural glow and their journey to perfect health through diet. Their Instagram accounts document glamorous, aspirational lives centred round stylish kitchens, where these bright young stars perform assorted yoga moves next to an endless procession of avocado and quinoa-based delights. For a movement that prides itself on being a joyous lifestyle rather than a dietary…