Innholdsfortegnelse for Apr-18 i Delicious UK

Do you rememberthe first time something you tasted made an impression on you? Food, by its nature, has its roots in culture, in the things our mothers, fathers, grandparents and friends cooked – and still cook. The experiences of our youth (good and bad) resonate in the eating of our adulthood. As we grow up, learn new things and travel, inspiration comes from other sources: from places we visit, trying dishes that assail, tease, please and sometimes challenge our taste buds. Combine tantalising flavours with sunshine and a view over sea or snow-covered mountains, add laughter and good conversation around the table and the pleasure is heightened. But equally that happy memory can be a solitary one, sitting alone eating a bowl of the sweetest, plumpest mussels in…

FANTASTIC MR FOX I’m a sucker for new tea towels (my kitchen drawer is full of them) and I’m always on the lookout for something a bit funky. I love the clean colours and design of this range and have bought two sets! Scion Living by Dexam Mr Fox tea towels, £15 for a set of two, in two colourways HERE COMES THE SUN In my dreams I’m all set for summer with this portable pizza oven, which doubles as a barbie. It’s not cheap but it’ll be the star of my outdoor feasts. Firepod portable stone-baked pizza oven in azure blue, £445 MY GO-TO SNACK… I always keep a bowl of tomatoes on the side and this mix from the Isle of Wight is packed with flavour. Tomato…

1564 William Shakespeare was born in Stratford-upon-Avon on 26 April. The playwright often referenced food and drink, famously observing in Romeo and Juliet: “’Tis an ill cook that cannot lick his own fingers.” 1789 A mutiny took place on Royal Navy ship Bounty when the captain William Bligh was set adrift in the South Pacific on 28 April during a voyage to collect breadfruit trees from Tahiti. 1912 Oysters, roast squab and Waldorf pudding were served in first class at the last dinner on the Titanic before it hit an iceberg at 11.40pm on 14 April and sunk three hours later. 1944 Alice Waters was born on 28 April in New Jersey. In 1971 she started organic Californian restaurant Chez Panisse. Now world-famous, it’s been credited with founding the farm-to-table…

12-15 APRIL London Coffee Festival London’s Old Truman Brewery is host to Europe’s largest celebration of the dark stuff with more than 250 exhibitors. Watch beans being roasted, create your own latte art, taste blends and learn to brew the perfect cup. Don’t miss baristas competing to be Coffee Master 2018 (awarded on Sunday). From £14.50; londoncoffeefestival.com 21-22 APRIL Bishop Auckland Food Festival, County Durham Regional produce, tempting street food and stars such as Phil Vickery and GBBO winner Candice Brown are on the menu here. From 17-20 April the festival will visit schools and leisure centres in the area to demonstrate healthy recipes and promote food knowledge. Entry free, cookery theatre tickets £5; bishopauckland foodfestival.co.uk 28-29 APRIL Liverpool Spring Festival Enjoy food for every palate and pocket at this…

In the 18th century people drank small beer (beer low in alcohol) instead of water because it was safer. The phrase endured and is used today to denote something insignificant. Now small beer has been reinvented for those seeking a lighter drink, rather than for those seeking to avoid cholera. Developed by clever people, formerly of gin pioneers Sipsmith, and sold in fetching stubbies, there are two beers. The regular lager (2.1%, or just 0.7 units per bottle) has a good hop quality and it’s a refreshing choice if you want to ease back on the booze. You could, of course, live like a Georgian and drink it instead of water, but it may be frowned upon in meetings… £2.85 for 33cl, Majestic stores; theoriginalsmallbeer.com…

COVER STAR Asparagus, pea & mint risotto SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIPS If you’re vegetarian, swap the anchovies for capers or chopped olives, and use a vegetarian hard cheese. When fresh peas are in season, use them instead of frozen. • 2 tbsp olive oil• Bunch spring onions, white parts and green parts separated and finely chopped (we used some red spring onions for colour)• 1 large celery stick, finely chopped• 300g bunch asparagus, stalks finely sliced and tips reserved• 1-1.25 litres fresh chicken or vegetable stock (see tips)• 350g risotto rice• 200ml dry white wine• Bunch fresh mint, finely chopped• 3 anchovy fillets in oil, finely chopped (see tips)• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon• 200g frozen peas (see tips)•…

THE MYTH Champagne coupes are modelled on Marie Antoinette’s breasts THE FACTS Almost everything you hear about Marie Antoinette is false (including her most famous quote “Let them eat cake”). She gets a terrible press thanks to revolutionary (and anti-Austrian) propaganda. She was actually a devoted mother and wife, and probably no more excessive than any other French noblewoman of the time. While the original champagne coupe may have been modelled on someone’s breast, there’s no evidence it was hers. It was common at the time to appear in the French court with bosoms barely covered, so any budding glass designers would have had a wealth of inspiration to choose from. THE MYTH The Venetian explorer Marco Polo brought pasta to Italy from China THE FACTS Mentions of pasta in…

THE MASTER RECIPE… MAKES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 20-22 MIN, PLUS COOLING MAKE AHEAD The macaroons will keep for 2-3 weeks in an airtight jar or tin somewhere cool. • 100g whole blanched almonds, plus 8 to decorate• 150g golden caster sugar• 60g free-range egg whites (about 2 medium eggs, or use Two Chicks Egg White, twochicks.co.uk, from large supermarkets)• 2 tbsp ground rice or fine semolina• ¼ tsp almond extract YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • Disposable plastic or nylon piping bag fitted with 1.5cm plain piping nozzle• 2 sturdy baking sheets lined with rice paper or non-stick baking paper (see Debbie’s tips for success, right) 1 Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/ gas 2. Using a small sharp knife, split the 8 extra almonds in half lengthways…

“There is no cinematic moment that has compelled me to want to run to the kitchen to have my way with a bag of sugar more than the opening titles of Caramel , a languidly beguiling Lebanese film directed by Nadine Labaki. It unveils the private lives and longings of four women who all work in a beauty salon in Beirut. The title refers to a much-loved sugar confection, which is of course edible, but that’s often used across the Middle East for depilation purposes, much like wax. The film opens with a voyeuristic peek into caramel being prepared in a battered pan on a rickety stove. What the sequence lacks in sleekness and chicness, it makes up for with a friendly, familiar warmth that’s inviting and instantly seductive. It’s…

My most vivid childhood memories are of time spent with my dad in my family’s kitchen in south London. Dad was Nigerian with Afro-Brazilian roots and moved to the UK more than 30 years ago. He was a keen cook and, as we helped him sift through piles of black-eyed beans, getting rid of any cracked or shrivelled ones, he’d tell us stories about Nigeria, bringing to life the Lagos of his youth. Both sides of his family (the Alakijas and Bamgboses) were prominent ‘returnees’, the name given to families who’d left Brazil and gone back to Nigeria when slavery was abolished in Brazil in 1888. Many continued to travel between West Africa and Brazil, with a small contingent settling permanently in Salvador de Bahia on the northeastern coast of…

WEEKNIGHT PROMISE Your guarantee for every recipe in this feature: NO MORE THAN… • 10 ingredients (not including oil)• 30 minutes hands-on time• 650 calories per portion (but most recipes have fewer)• 10g sat fat per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar Fish finger kimchi rice with edamame and a fried egg SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you can’t find kimchi, use sauerkraut and add chilli sauce or sriracha. • 8 frozen sustainable fish fingers• 350g basmati rice• Olive or vegetable oil for frying• 4 free-range eggs• 280g frozen edamame (soy beans)• 1 tsp black sesame seeds• 4 heaped tbsp kimchi or to taste, plus extra to serve (see tip)• Pinch frozen chopped jalapeño chilli or…

“High regular consumption of artificial sweeteners could cause spikes in blood sugar levels and increase insulin resistance which, in turn, could increase the risk of developing type 2 diabetes” Sugar substitutes have been around for almost 140 years – saccharin was first produced in 1879 and used during World War II when the white stuff was in short supply. These days, we consume vast quantities of sweeteners. According to market research analysts Euromonitor, more than 2 million tonnes of ‘high intensity sweeteners’, as they’re sometimes known, were consumed in food and drink products in the UK in 2016. The European Food Information Council says sales of low-calorie soft drinks have increased 15-fold over the past 30 years and have become best sellers. WHAT ARE SWEETENERS? Alternative sweeteners are low-calorie or…

“My approach to eating well, without having too many carbs, is to bump up protein, to include fats and to avoid processed foods and added sugars. A key trend of the low-carb diet is to replace refined grains such as pasta, white bread and rice with non-starchy carbs such as green veg, aubergines, mushrooms and celeriac, and there is a lot to recommend it. Eating this way is about as good as it gets.” Watercress and pistachio soup SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, COOKING TIME 15 MIN “Pistachios give this soup a soothing homespun texture, thick and faintly mealy. Their scent after a quick spell in hot butter works a treat with the watercress, while the pomegranate challenges its slight bitterness. It’s a soup that suggests that all is…

MAKES 250ML. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN Curd is a zingy alternative to jam. Spread it on toast or use it in sponge cakes or swirled into ice cream or yogurt MAKE AHEAD Curd will keep chilled in a sealed, sterilised jar for up to a month. Freeze in bags for up to 3 months. NEXT TIME Vary the flavour to suit your taste: try swapping 1 lemon for 2 limes and add a teaspoon of rum or 70g grated fresh ginger. 1 Put the grated zest and juice of 2 large lemons in a heatproof glass or stainless steel bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water (don’t let the bowl touch the water). Warm for 3-4 minutes [A], then add 175g caster sugar and stir gently until dissolved.…

“Katsu curry, a crunchy, breadcrumbed-and-fried fillet served with a special curry sauce, is a favourite across Japan. It’s traditionally made with pork but can be made with chicken breast too. Each family and restaurant has their own variation, some adding fruit, extra spices and herbs to the sauce, depending on their taste. The sauce is usually mildly spiced but at some restaurants you can select your spice level – so it can be extremely hot. Ultra-crisp Japanese panko breadcrumbs are key to the recipe; the bigger the crumbs, the crisper and better the result.” Yamagoya chicken katsu SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN, PLUS SOAKING MAKE AHEAD Make the curry sauce up to 3 days head, then cover and chill. Reheat to serve. KNOWHOW…

We’ve teamed up with Sandals Resorts to offer you the chance to win a romantic holiday for two to the Caribbean island of Grenada. Known as the island of spice, it’s famed for its nutmeg plantations, as well as its fine chocolate and rum, making it a prime destination for food lovers. With an enviable spot at the heart of the celebrated Pink Gin Beach, Sandals Grenada Resort & Spa has white sands, shimmering turquoise waters and the best in hospitality. There are five beautiful swimming pools with views of the ocean and tropical hillsides, plus an oh-so-decadent swim-up bar. At night, fire pits and candlelight create an elegant atmosphere in which to enjoy the evening’s entertainment, which might be a steel band or a party on the beach. The…

1 Book… …tickets to see The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society, out on 20 April. First it was a bestselling book and now it’s a film, with cast including Lily James (right), Matthew Goode and Penelope Wilton. It’s a (fictional) story of life on Guernsey during the German occupation in World War II (not fictional). Times were hard and food was scarce – hence the potato peel pies. It will be interesting to see how the book’s format (a series of letters) translates to the big screen. 2 Read… …First Catch: Study of a Spring Meal (£16.99; Hardie Grant) by rising-star chef and food writer Thom Eagle. There’s a slew of books that plough a similar furrow, but not to the standard of this collection of cloth-bound musings.…

STAR EMAIL SUBJECT: Less is more FROM : Genesta Gunn How inspiring it was to read Julian Baggini’s article “When ‘just saying no’ is a wise move” [March, p36]. Every year I give up sweet treats for Lent and am often quizzed: “I didn’t know you were religious” or “Is it to lose weight?” My reason is always the same: to reset my body and appreciate things. It’s too easy to nip into a coffee shop and leave with a cake and a drink with no thought that a treat has now become an everyday thing. During Lent I cook more, make my lunches and appreciate the luxuries. The bad habits do sneak back, but when I ask: “Do I really need this?” most of the time the answer is…

“These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to. We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money do they get the delicious. seal of approval .” KAREN BARNES, EDITOR Seasoned with time In Jenny Linford’s new book The Missing Ingredient the ingredient in question is time – something we generally spend energy trying to save rather than savour. By talking to chefs and producers and by looking at techniques key to a recipe’s success, Jenny considers how time makes a marked difference to flavour. Fascinating and thought-provoking. £18.99; Particular Books Top that one Have you ever burnt your worktop?…

THE ART OF BAKING I think some people find baking therapeutic but for me it’s all about the creativity. When I was younger I did a lot of salt-dough modelling and those skills translate well into sugar-craft. I just love the beauty of baking. PASSIONATE ABOUT PATISSERIE I started baking after I left my role as an Army officer in the Royal Artillery. Initially I decorated cakes and gave them to family and friends as presents. Then I bought William Curley’s book Patisserie and that was massive for me. It took things up several levels. BACK IN GEAR I’m a track cyclist but didn’t compete in 2017 because of Bake Off. This year I’ll be off to LA in October to compete in the UCI Track Cycling World Championships –…

SPRING FEVER ‘O, to be in England/Now that April’s there…’ wrote Robert Browning. Given that he was in northern Italy at the time, where spring is spectacularly beautiful, I suspect he must have forgotten how cold and wet it can be – ‘ne’er cast a clout till May be out’ and all that. I adore spring, and April is possibly my very favourite month. Buds pop up their heads, ready to burst with promise. The sun glimmers between the showers. Everyone seems a little lighter and brighter. All I can think about is scoffing as many native oysters as I can before their season ends, and (as those first young vegetables appear in the shops) eating dishes like navarin of lamb and spring veg – oh, and lots of purple…

“Simon Hopkinson’s Roast Chicken and Other Stories * is one of my favourite cookbooks and his roast chicken recipe is legendary. He uses lots of butter, lemon, garlic and herbs, creating a wonderful lemony jus. I’ve used those flavours here but combined them in a stuffing to serve alongside. The dish works a treat with my updated, dukkahtopped cauliflower cheese.” DAN DOHERTY, CHEF DIRECTOR, DUCK & WAFFLE Roast chicken with buttery stuffing balls SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 40-45 MIN • 1.8-2kg British free-range chicken• 120g unsalted butter, softened• 1 lemon• Several fresh thyme sprigs• 3 garlic cloves, left whole and unpeeled• 3 shallots, peeled and halved• 4 x 1cm thick slices bread• 100g British free-range sausagemeat• Large pinch chopped…

“With its elegant stems and heather-like tops, this highly prized brassica is brilliantly versatile. It’s quick to cook and brings colour and crunch to dishes – and is as happy in a simple stir-fry as it is in an elegant side dish. I also like to stir sliced stems into stews at the end of the cooking time to add texture and a burst of colour. I’ve given one of the recipes here a Thai twist, tossing the PSB with a vibrant dressing to accompany tuna. In the other dish I’ve ramped up the umami factor by charring whole stems and pairing them with punchy anchovy and tahini.” LOTTIE COVELL, ACTING FOOD LIFESTYLE EDITOR Thai-style tuna and broccoli salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Buy the…

When I was 16 I started to keep a menu book, a school exercise book I’d carefully covered in wrapping paper. This was an odd obsession because I didn’t cook the majority of the menus I created; I would’ve needed a restaurant to get through them all. The pleasure was in putting the menus together. I still have the notebook. Most of the meals are simple: cucumber salad with dill and soured cream, goulash, baked autumn fruit, crudités (the kind I’d had in France), poulet bonne femme, galette aux pommes. There are no dishes from some of the cuisines I now love – the Middle East or Vietnam, for example – and there are a few old-fashioned, embarrassingly complicated menus I wouldn’t dream of attempting these days: buckwheat blinis with…

GRAB A BARGAIN • Majestic Loves Grüner Veltliner 2016, Hungary (£6.99, or £5.99 as part of a mixed six, Majestic) Refreshing, citrussy Hungarian take on this famous grape. Good with scallops, plaice or sole. • The Bees Knees Sparkling Rosé, Germany (£3.49, Morrisons; £3.99 Ocado, Booths, Adnams) This new alcohol-free sparkler is made with grape juice and green tea. It’s surprisingly good; not too sweet, with red berry flavour and lively froth. • Extra Special Marques del Norte Rioja Reserva 2013, Spain (£6.98 or 3 for 2 until 11 April, Asda) A keenly priced rioja with a whack of vanilla-tinged oak, plus strawberry and cherry. Great with lamb. FRIDAY SPECIAL • Mártisor Pinot Grigio 2017, Romania (£7.49, Waitrose) Bright, sunny white that’s fruitier than most Italian PGs (think lemon and pineapple). A lip-smacking aperitif…

Honey and mustard baked chicken and rice SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 40-50 MIN MAKE AHEAD Marinate the chicken up to 24 hours in advance, cover and keep in the fridge until ready to cook. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you have any leftover vegetables to use up from the fridge, just add with the rice and chicken in step 2. • 2½ tbsp clear honey, plus extra to drizzle• 2½ tbsp wholegrain mustard• Zest and juice 1 lemon, plus wedges for squeezing (optional)• 3 tbsp olive oil• 8 free-range, skin-on chicken drumsticks (about 1kg)• 300g basmati rice• 2 leeks, sliced• 500ml hot chicken stock (made with a stock cube)• Handful fresh parsley, leaves picked 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Mix the honey, mustard,…

• Acesulfame K Up to 200 times sweeter than sugar and calorie-free, often blended with sucralose and used to decrease the bitter aftertaste of aspartame. • Aspartame 200 times sweeter than sugar and low calorie. The most controversial sweetener, once linked to cancer, a theory later disproved. • Saccharin The oldest artificial sweetener. Calorie-free and 300-400 times sweeter than sugar. Can have a bitter aftertaste. • Sorbitol Extracted from glucose, resembles sugar with 60 per cent of its sweetness and 30 per cent fewer calories. Can have a laxative effect if you have a lot of it. • Stevia 200-300 times sweeter than sugar, extracted from the leaves of a plant native to Central and South America. • Sucralose Calorie-free and up to 650 times sweeter than sugar. Valued for having no bitter aftertaste; often combined…

Lighter cottage pie SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN HOW WE DID IT We used a lean (5% fat) beef mince and swapped the usual mash for a cauliflower and bean topping. The creaminess of the beans means there’s no need to add extra butter to the mash. MAKE AHEAD Make but don’t bake the pie and keep it covered in the fridge. Bring back to room temperature, then bake as in the recipe for an extra 10-15 minutes or until golden and bubbling. Freeze the unbaked pie (without cheese) for up to 3 months, wrapped in cling film. Bake from frozen for 45-50 minutes. Top with grated cheese after 15 minutes. • 400g lean (5% fat) British beef mince• 1 tsp olive oil• 1 onion,…

New potatoes are one of the first joys of spring, sometimes overlooked in favour of their more pushy fellow spring vegetable, asparagus. A freshly dug new potato has a fine flavour that’s worth preserving FREEZE New potatoes don’t freeze brilliantly, as they can go watery or mealy. Really small, waxy specimens fare best as they have a lower water content. Cut them into olive-size chunks and boil for five minutes in salted water until just tender, then toss in butter and freeze in bags for up to 3 months. PRESERVE There are wonderful Indian potato pickles, such as aloo achaar, but none that lasts more than a few days in the fridge. For longer-term storage, try drying them instead. Slice small waxy new potatoes 1-2mm thick (a mandoline will help…

1 FISH ROE Female fish produce roe (eggs) and males produce milt (to fertilise the eggs). Herring milt (soft roe) and eggs (hard roe) is a delicacy. In spring some roe is available fresh: cod, coley, ling and haddock are harvested commercially. Cold-smoked cod roe is available year round and is used to make taramasalata. Other roe from Pacific salmon (keta), trout, capelin and lumpfish are sold lightly salted in jars and add colour and texture to dishes. Caviar is the most exclusive roe. It once came from wild sturgeon caught in Iran and Russia but it’s now mainly farmed in Europe. Caviar is pricey but it takes up to 20 years for the fish to grow to maturity. Arënkha (formerly Avruga) is a caviar substitute made from MSC-certified smoked…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHERE Swinton Cookery School, Yorkshire ( food.swintonestate.com ) THE COURSE Spanish Tapas Temptations, £85 for one-day course, including a light lunch prepared during the class, plus tea and coffee TESTER Rebecca Almond WHAT IT’S LIKE It’s a rare occasion when you get to cook a Spanish tapas feast in an imposing British castle, but this was one such day. Driving into the Yorkshire Dales National Park, the first glimpse of the 20,000-acre Swinton Estate is nothing short of breathtaking. The long driveway snakes past manicured lawns where deer graze freely, and up to the turreted castle. The cookery school is in the converted stables. I fell instantly for the kitchen. There’s space aplenty, bright but not stark lighting, and though the induction hobs and granite…

“They make you feel like an idiot for daring to ask for a table… They’re part bouncer, part St Peter with an iPad” TS Eliot declared April “the cruellest month” – a sentiment that seems confusing (had he not met January?) until you find yourself standing in the rain, without a brolly, waiting for your dinner. This season of sudden, squally showers is all well and good if you’re watching nature’s showcase through the windows of an oven-warmed kitchen, but not if you’ve set your sights on that impenetrable fortress of the food scene: a restaurant that doesn’t take reservations. The trend began in London but, like the hype, it’s spreading – so if your local pavements aren’t yet beset by hordes of hungry punters, just wait. The no-bookings restaurant…

In partnership with Great Taste food awards, The Seed Fund is offering 12 fledgling food and drink businesses a place on their summer Seed Academy programme, with mentoring by Planet Organic founder Renée Elliott and John Farrand, head of the Guild of Fine Food. After the workshops/seminars the business with the best pitch will win a year of support worth £100,000. The 2017 champion, Firepot by Outdoorfood, has been expanding since its win, while 2016 winner Adam’s Chocolate is now stocked in stores including Wholefoods. It’s a chance to turn your seedling venture into a fruitful business. Entrants must have been trading for less than three years with a turnover of less than £1 million per year. Entries close 30 April and the Seed Academy class of 2018 will be…

1 PEAS PLEASE ME For freshness in a bowl, these are the soups to try. They’re created by friends Cullen Allen and Colum O’Sullivan (Cully and Sully) and the flavours are balanced and vibrant. Our favourite is pea and mint – it has the real taste of buttery peas. £1.50 for 400g, Tesco 2 FREE FROM WORTHINESS So much gluten-free pasta is wholly unpleasant, especially in texture, but not this pumpkin & sage raviolini by Ugo Thrive. The sage is just subtle enough not to eclipse the sweet earthiness of the pumpkin. £3 for 250g from Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, Ocado and Booths 3 A BREATH OF FRESH AIR I like the look of these neat tins – small enough to keep in bag or pocket without being too bulky or heavy.…

The smoke billowing from the kiln is heavy with the aromas of oak forests. It’s a scent that’s almost as ancient as human civilisation, yet as comfortingly familiar as a posh cooked breakfast. His head still wreathed in trails of smoke, Richard Cook of Severn & Wye Smokery wheels a tray of haddock fresh from the kiln. After two-and-a-half hours of smoking the pearly-white flesh has turned a beautiful burnished golden colour. “When they come out they have a lovely sheen and a firm elasticity. You know when it feels right,” Richard explains as he talks me through the process. The fresh (never frozen) haddock fillets, which are certified as sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council, are first brined, then the fillets are laid onto metal racks, put in the…

DRINKING… CORTE VETUSTO MEZCAL. Mezcal is the grandfather of tequila. Tequila is only made with blue agave, whereas mezcal uses any agave, which makes for more variety. It’s smoky, earthy and mellow, and great with lime juice, agave syrup, a little muddled chilli and soda. READING… HOW TO EAT A PEACH, the latest book from Diana Henry (see p64 and p78). It’s packed with her beautiful writing, lush recipes and wonderful storytelling. It’s inspirational. In fact, it was her Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons from 2002 that made me want to write about food. VISITING… CHINA AND SIAM: THROUGH THE LENS OF JOHN THOMSON at London’s Brunei Gallery (johnthomsonexhibition.org), opening on 13 April. He was the first photographer to visit Angkor Wat (in the 1860s) and he created an extensive photographic…

THE TWIST RECIPE Omelette Arnold Bennett with horseradish & chives SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN MAKE AHEAD Follow the recipe up to the end of step 2, then chill the mixture and reserved egg whites for up to 12 hours. Bring back to room temperature before continuing with the recipe. FOOD TEAM’S TIP The omelette will be runny in the middle ( baveuse ). If you prefer, cook for a little longer to firm it up more. • 200ml whole milk• 2 bay leaves• 180g sustainable smoked haddock, cut into 3 pieces• 30g butter, plus an extra knob for frying• 30g plain flour• 2 tbsp horseradish sauce (we used Colman’s)• 3 medium free-range eggs, separated• 2 tbsp single cream• 25g parmesan, plus a little extra for the top, finely…

“In our kitchen at home there’s a huge drawer full of pans and baking equipment. Hidden at the back is a slightly battered item, one with which I’d never part: it’s a bread tin, blackened with use, and with our family name embossed on the side so it imprints every loaf. It must be more than 60 years old. My great-grandma set up Bourdeaux’s bakery three generations ago after her husband Cecil was gassed in World War I and was unable to work. His wife was so ashamed that she forbade all mention of him. We only recently discovered that he lived out his days in an institution. That in itself is shameful now. Great-Granny Bourdeaux had to find a way of supporting the family and she did that by…

“When you hear the word pigeon, try to scrub out images of the marauding, scraggy flocks of one-legged birds pirating about busy city centres. Those are feral pigeons; wood pigeons are a different species. The wood pigeon spends a life on the wing, during which it commands vast areas of wood and open farmland. There are no chains in their skyway. There are no fences to keep them in, or keepers to shut them up. They are wild and free and, as a result, benefit from a completely natural diet. What’s more, they’re common, so their numbers will occasionally be culled. All this makes them one of the most sustainable and healthy forms of meat we could hope to eat. Beyond that? Well, they’re incredibly delicious. Sorrel, the slender herbaceous…

TAKE A PACK p92 Four simple, speedy and flavour-packed recipes made using a tub of cream cheese QUICK FIX MEAL p88 A wholesome, spicy bowlful for one that’s ready in 20 minutes HEALTHY MAKEOVER p100 Our lighter cottage pie reduces the fat and calories but keeps all the comforting taste MIDWEEK… p82 Make it easier with five great dishes that rely on the freezer…

Orange and tarragon chicken traybake SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. Mix a 180g pack of full-fat cream cheese in a bowl with 2 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon, the zest of ½ orange and a pinch of salt. Slice 4 free-range chicken breasts lengthways horizontally (don’t go all the way through), then open out like a book. Divide the cream cheese mix among the breasts, then fold over to seal. Take 4 slices of parma ham and wrap one around each stuffed breast. Toss 300g baby carrots and 200g baby leeks with the juice of 1 orange, 1 tbsp sherry vinegar, 1 tbsp honey, 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard and seasoning in a roasting tray. Put the chicken on top,…

Official heath policy states that alternative sweeteners can help weight loss ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE The long-term effects of consuming large quantities of sweeteners are unknown. ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE Evidence suggests longterm consumption of large quantities of sweeteners might increase the risk of type 2 diabetes, obesity and cardiovascular disease ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE Some medical experts suggest drinks containing sweeteners are unsuitable for children ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE According to a theory, sweeteners might trigger sugar cravings ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE…

MEET OUR EXPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor LOTTIE COVELL Acting food lifestyle editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer XANTHE CLAY Chef, writer, and preserves & freezing queen CHEF’S STEP BY STEP p107 Fah Sundravorakul shows how to make chicken katsu curry just like they do in Japan delicious. KITCHEN p102 Cookery tips and tricks, including three big-on-flavour salad dressings LEMON CURD HOW-TO p104 You can’t beat a homemade curd for citrussy tang – our version is simple to make and store…

Smoking adds great flavour to your food – and you don’t need to build a smokehouse in the back garden, says Lucas Hollweg THE BASICS Hot smoking involves smoking at a temperature of 80-120°C so the food cooks as well as smokes. It’s usually safe to eat the food without further cooking; smoked mackerel is hot smoked. Cold smoking bathes the food in ‘cool’ smoke (generally at below 30°C), so the food is flavoured by the smoke but stays raw and usually needs cooking. Smoked salmon is an exception. It’s been cured before smoking, so can be eaten as it is. WHAT CAN YOU SMOKE? If you can eat or drink it, you can smoke it. Fish, meat, seafood, tofu, veg, butter, cheese, milk, even water and cocktails… WHAT ABOUT…

JOIN US ON THE ROAD - ARE WE IN YOUR AREA? Get the dates in your diary… delicious. is hitting the road this summer, touring the UK’s best food festivals to do the regional judging for the delicious. Produce Awards. Cookery expert Valentina Harris will oversee the fun – come along and watch, and meet Valentina, the judges and our friends in the Fisher & Paykel Social Kitchen. It’s going to be a blast… There’s still time to nominate your favourite food heroes in the 2018 delicious. Produce Awards. Is there a baker, cheesemaker, farmer, winemaker or smokehouse you think deserves recognition? Share your knowledge and nominate them right now: visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/produceawards – it only takes a couple of minutes to nominate and, as well as doing a good deed,…