Innholdsfortegnelse for Mar-18 i Delicious UK

Four days off … That’s what most of the population look forward to at Easter, isn’t it? A shining nugget of relaxation on the horizon after the dank, dark days of winter. Link that in your mind with images of spring flowers, the smell of a sticky-glossy joint of meat roasting in the oven, the promise of chocolate, a family/ friends gathering that doesn’t involve having to write cards and wrap presents and it all adds up to something pretty special. Which means pretty special recipes are needed to give the proceedings heart and focus… Welcome to your Easter issue! It’s Mothering Sunday this month as well – a moment to pause and say thank you. Perhaps, this year, make it an excuse to bake a cake for any…

SUBJECT: The meat you eat FROM : Julia Domanski I can’t express the joy and pride I felt reading your article ‘10 reasons why it’s better to eat no meat than cheap meat’ by Philip Lymbery [February issue, p68]. This issue is something I’ve spoken about passionately for a long time and I’m usually met with eye-rolls or an abrupt change of subject. I live in London now but write for the food section of a publication in my home country, South Africa. Your article has inspired me to write on the same topic in the hope of educating and inspiring South Africans in the same way that I’m sure you’ve now inspired many of your UK readers. SUBJECT: ‘Pronounced irritation’ FROM : Savita Ayling Victoria Glass’s take on pronunciation…

Restaurateur James Ramsden waves the tricolore for the best Gallic grub in the capital For a while it seemed we were so smugly enjoying France’s (arguable) gastronomic decline that we forgot why French food was, and is still, such a force. Thankfully, London has a slew of terrific places to eat old-school French cuisine. Top of the pile is the blissful Otto’s (ottosrestaurant.com) in Clerkenwell with its duck and lobster presses, steak tartare prepped table-side, and shamelessly austere wine list. More laidback is Bermondsey’s Casse-Croute (cassecroute.co.uk), which feels about as authentically French as you’ll find in London, with its daily menu scrawled on a blackboard providing a useful bit of GCSE revision. The food is banging, obviously, as it is at its neighbour and sibling Pique-Nique (pique-nique.co.uk), where you must…

“These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to. We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money do they get the delicious. seal of approval.” Get it right, in style If you’re doing Easter baking (or any baking, for that matter), accuracy is crucial. These good-looking Terraillon Macaron kitchen scales come in a rainbow of colours and measure in imperial or metric – plus, you can weigh out your ingredients in whichever bowl, jug or saucepan you’re using for your recipe. The screen is easy to read and the scales have non-slip feet. I’ve done a side-by-side accuracy test with…

COOKING AND PARTYING My dad was a bon viveur – he knew how to bring people together, make a party and create a joyous thing. I have inherited that instinct from him. We were what you call latchkey kids, so mum would leave things three-quarters cooked and we would finish them off ourselves. It made us confident in the kitchen. TEST OF TIME When I was 10, my dad won £150 on the pools. He went out and bought a Kenwood food mixer with the money and I use it to this day. It was proper posh back then. DANCING IN THE KITCHEN Music, food and family are my holy trinity. In our house Sam Cooke was one of our favourite singers to listen to every Sunday. In the kitchen…

Taped to a wall in Hoxton Bakehouse’s tiny, busy office is an A4 sign that reads: Never, never, never give up. It’s a fitting slogan for this young, ambitious business run by Darren Bland and Florence Hellier. Despite the name, the bakery isn’t in an old East End-style warehouse in hip Hoxton, but in an unglamorous industrial unit a stone’s throw from Southampton Central railway station, next to a car repair garage. The Bakehouse has only been up and running since 2014 but its beautiful pastries and breads have won the hearts of locals, who flock through the doors each Saturday morning to grab loaves fresh from the ovens. The bakery may have bagged a Produce Award for its stoneground spelt loaf, but getting the company from the planning stages…

When we’re more careful about what we eat, we take control of our actions and appreciate more what we put in our mouths The Christmas feasting was barely over when Cadbury Creme Eggs started appearing on shop shelves. Easter used to be preceded by 40 days of fasting during Lent. Now it’s around 80 days of more, not fewer, sweet treats. It’s not surprising that fasting for Lent has become a thing of the past. In the UK, the majority now identifies as having no religion and only one in 20 attends church. Why would anyone continue to deprive themselves without a religious motivation? I’m certainly happy to discard the kind of puritanical religion that glorifies in the mortification of the flesh, but we should be careful not to throw…

Cauliflower wellington SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Roast the cauliflower up to 24 hours ahead, cool, then wrap in cling film and chill. Make the mushroom pâté up to 24 hours ahead, cover and chill. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you eat meat, wrap a layer of parma ham over the pâté at the end of step 4. 1largecauliflowerleaves removed and stem trimmed flat at the base Olive oil for drizzling 500g block ready-made all butter puff pastry 150g mature cheddar 1 free-range egg, beaten, to glaze FOR THE MUSHROOM PÂTÉ Olive oil for frying 20g butter 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 250g chestnut mushrooms, chopped A few fresh rosemary and thyme sprigs, leaves chopped 100ml…

SWEDISH-INSPIRED MENU FOR 4-6 Swedish mint julep Mormor’s curried fish soup Slow-braised pig cheeks Crispy sliced and stacked lemon roasted potatoes  Little coffee pavlovas “The way we eat in Sweden is encapsulated by the word ‘lagom’. Put simply, it’s a manifestation of equilibrium – work and play, light and dark, hot and cold… Lagom extends to our cuisine as well – the Swedes take great pride in eating healthily, drawing on their own cooking traditions and the seasons’ offerings. But they also know when it’s time to break the rules and reach for a cinnamon bun or add a dash of sumac or chilli. It’s not about perfection, but harmony. It’s the unfussy food lovingly made in kitchens up and down this long country during the cold, dark winter months…

Cook any recipe from the magazine this month and send us a picture for a chance to win some good-looking kit from Judge Electricals. You’ll get five sleek gadgets, all of which complement one another: toaster, kettle, table grill, healthy grill and soup maker. The table grill cooks food at the table – try seafood or piri-piri chicken for supper, or a relaxed brunch where everyone makes their own pancakes. The healthy grill can cook a steak with no oil or grill a mean toasted sandwich, and the soup maker also makes excellent smoothies. judgecookware.co.uk FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make any recipe from the March issue, take a picture and share it with us (see below)* COOK IT LIKE delicious. JANUARY’S WINNER Shakira Nelis wins a castle stay worth…

“A scattering of sliced spring onion adds pep and colour to salads and stir-fries, but cooking them is where it gets interesting for me: I love their smoky hit when roasted or charred. Here I’ve taken crispy fried onions a step further and added a cornmeal crunch, serving them on spring onion-spiked cornbread. I’ve also grilled them for beef yakitori. You could also lay whole ones in a tray for roasting underneath meat or poultry, use them chopped in risotto instead of ordinary onions or chop and sprinkle over a cheese toastie.” WHAT TO LOOK FOR Spring onions, also called salad onions, are young onions picked before the bulbs have had time to grow into large round onions. Most of the ones you find in the shops are the thickness…

“Some of my strongest childhood memories are from visits to our family who remained in Palestine. It always felt like a celebration. I remember my paternal grandfather’s cool, stone house and sprawling olive groves in Bethlehem. Cousins, aunts and uncles would gather for Sunday lunches and picnics at tables holding so many dishes – from hand-rolled vine leaves to houmous with sautéed lamb. My mother’s family are from Jerusalem and my tayta (grandmother) would cook eggs with olive oil and za’atar for weekend breakfasts, with labneh (strained yogurt) and bread. As an adult I find the East Jerusalem markets so evocative – the wild thyme scent of za’atar, piles of pine nuts and pomegranates. This recipe is for one of my favourite dishes. Tangy with deep-red sumac, moist with peppery…

Sticky sesame and soy chicken tray bake SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Use skin-on chicken thighs instead of legs if you prefer; you’ll need 2 per person. 4chickenlegsskin-on (see tip) 3 tbsp dark soy sauce 1 large star anise, crushed 3cm piece fresh ginger, grated 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 2 tsp honey 2 oranges, 1 sliced, 1 juiced 200g basmati rice 200g spring greens, sliced 4 spring onions, sliced 1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°Cfan/gas 4. Heat a shallow flameproof casserole over a medium heat, add the chicken legs and brown all over. Mix the soy sauce, star anise, ginger, sesame oil, honey and orange juice in a small bowl, then pour over the chicken in the casserole. Add the…

The master recipe White sauce MAKES 1.3 LITRES. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN MAKE AHEAD Prepare the sauce up to 48 hours in advance, pour into a sealable container and lay a piece of cling film directly on the surface to stop a skin forming. Chill until needed, then gently warm through in a pan or in a microwave. Alternatively freeze the sauce in a sealed container for up to 3 months. KNOWHOW White sauce (also called béchamel) is the basis of cheese sauce. Stir in grated cheese of your choice at the end until melted and use to make macaroni cheese, gratins, cauliflower cheese and more. Search for recipes at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. 100gunsaltedbutter 100g plain flour ½ tsp mustard powder 1.3 litres whole milk Grated nutmeg (optional) 1 Melt the…

Crispy Vietnamese fishcakes SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN MAKE AHEAD Assemble the fishcakes and coat them in breadcrumbs up to a day in advance. Cover and keep in the fridge. In a food processor, pulse together a 250g pouch of steamed basmati rice, 1 grated carrot, a handful of fresh coriander, 200g sustainable white fish fillets, in chunks, 2 tbsp yellow curry paste, the grated zest of 1 lime and 1 medium free-range egg, beaten, until combined. Shape into 6 patties, then coat with 50g panko breadcrumbs. Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the fishcakes for 4-5 minutes on each side until golden and cooked through. In a medium bowl, whisk 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil, ½ tbsp lime juice,…

FOOD DIY HOW TO DYE EGGS The subtle colours of naturally dyed eggs make a festive addition to the Easter table and are good fun to make with children. Here’s how: • Use white hen, duck or goose eggs. • Hard-boil the eggs, then cool completely in a bowl of cold water – this helps prevent a grey ring forming round the yolk. Dry before dyeing. • Prepare the dyes in separate pans. Put 1 litre water and 3 tbsp distilled white vinegar in each pan. For blue, add 500g shredded red cabbage; for yellow, 2 tbsp turmeric; for orange, the skins of 10-12 brown onions; for purple, 500g chopped beetroot. Cover and boil for 30 minutes, then allow to cool before straining the liquid into separate stain-resistant bowls. •…

YOU WILL NEED • 8-10 long, thin flexible branches. We used 120cm long willow branches with the thickest part of the branch about 1cm in diameter. Good florists should stock – or be able to get hold of – willow branches. • Florist’s wire (or florist’s tape) • Two or three types of foliage/longer, leafier stems (we used wax flowers, green bells and astrantia) • Two or three types of main flower (we used tulips and anemones) 1 Strip the willow of any leaves and soak the branches in a bath filled with warm water for at least an hour to make them more pliable. 2 Shape one branch into a circle 30-40cm in diameter and secure with florist’s wire. 3 Starting about 15cm further round from the first join,…

“We’ve been making our traditional hot cross buns for more than 12 years, but the thing that makes our buns special is that we bake them in smaller batches throughout the day, so during the lead-up to Easter our bakeries are filled with the sweetly spiced scent of freshly baked buns. We’re staunch believers in classic recipes: our only twist is to use the best ingredients we can find, packing our buns with dried fruit and finishing them with a spiced syrup for that signature sticky top. Enjoy them with plenty of butter, hot out of the oven – it’s the best way.” ROZ BADO, BAKER AND PASTRY CHEF, GAIL’S THE GAIL’S STORY – AND A BIT ABOUT ROZ It all began in London in the 1990s, when Gail Mejia…

HOW TO… Make butter-enriched dough The babka buns are made with a dough similar to one you’d use to make a brioche, where lots of butter is incorporated to enrich it WHAT’S THE BENEFIT? An enriched dough gives the bake a pillowy texture that’s more like a cake. HOW TO MAKE IT It’s easiest if you use a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, but you can knead in the butter by hand – it will take a long time and a fair bit of elbow grease though. Watch how to make it at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ stories/how-to-beat-butter-into-brioche-dough-by-hand TIP The butter must be at room temperature. If it’s too cold it will be difficult to incorporate, but it mustn’t be too warm/soft, either, or the dough will become greasy. Don’t…

1 Make… …edible Easter nests. Melt 200g milk or dark chocolate in a bowl over hot water (don’t let the bowl touch the water). Stir in 100g pulled-apart shredded wheat, then divide among 12 paper muffin cases – or do them freeform. Make a dent in the middles using the back of a teaspoon and let them set. Fill with a clutch of mini eggs. 2 Put… …your brain to the test with our Easter quiz – the best way to round off a meal after one of your gatherings over the long weekend. The questions will test your knowledge on anything from chocolate bars to eggs to children’s fiction and films – all with a food theme, naturally. Find the quiz online at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/easterquiz. 3 Enjoy... …an Easter egg…

Top 5 kitchen appliances We like our gadgets, we do, and these are the five bits of kitchen kit most often found in British households. Predictably, kettles and toasters are owned by the highest proportion of homes (that’s breakfast sorted), but then it gets interesting… And the next-most popular kitchen gadgets... ✭ JUICER/SMOOTHIE MAKER (38%) ✭ CAPSULE COFFEE MACHINE (35%) ✭ ELECTRIC FRYER (35%) CHEESE BEHIND THE SCENES Acclaimed cheesemaker Quicke’s is opening the gates to the family farm in Devon for half-day cheese tours From April to September, visitors can learn about the long history of the Quicke family at Home Farm and meet cheesemakers with a combined experience of more than a century. It’s a chance to discover the secrets of fine cheesemaking, from the traditional skill of…

SCANDIKITCHEN SUMMER Craving brighter days and lighter food? This new book from Danish-born author Brontë Aurell will inject the flavours of a Scandinavian summer into the winter’s dying days with recipes for everything from herring and potato salad to crispbread and meatballs, with lashings of dill. £16.99, Ryland Peters & Small; out 13 March COMPTOIR LIBANAIS: FEASTS FROM THE MIDDLE EAST Full-on flavours and riotous colours are the hallmarks of the drool-worthy recipes from Tony Kitous, owner of the Comptoir Libanais restaurant and deli chain in London. From salads and dips to slow-roast meats, it’s a visual and flavourful treat for the senses. £20, HarperCollins; out 8 March FEASTING: A NEW TAKE ON JEWISH COOKING Melbourne author Amanda Ruben’s ‘new take’ emphasises colourful, healthy ingredients, plenty of spices – and…

1 CHAMPAGNE LENTILS? No, they’re not poached in fizz. That would be mad – wouldn’t it? These Merchant Gourmet cooked lentils, high in protein and fibre, are from the Champagne region of France. Warm gently and add feta, herbs and crisp bacon. £1.99 for 250g, Sainsbury’s 2 JAMMY! The new Bonne Maman Rhubarb and Strawberry Conserve is threatening to knock my all-time favourite apricot off its perch. The sharp rhubarb matches well with sweet strawberry, although a tad more acidity would be even better. Try it spooned over yogurt. £2.59 for 370g, Ocado and independent stores 3 TREAT OF A TUB If you fancy chocolate in ice cream form you’d be hard-pressed to do better than this Gooey Chocolate Brownie tub from Jude’s, made with Colombian cacao and studded with…

MY PERSONAL WAR ON PLASTIC I meant to have a rant this month about Ziploc bags and how we can’t seem to make them here in the UK. We really can’t. They don’t zip and they don’t lock, so they were one of two things I used to ask friends to bring me back from the States. But, really, do we, in fact, need any more plastic? I’m trying to make my household as plastic-free as possible. It’s tough, it really is, but the recent news has been so sobering that I feel I have to. It’s not just the image of the seahorse clutching a cotton bud, or the plastic toy from a 1950s Sugar Puffs box turning up in the Arctic unscathed by its 50-odd-year ocean voyage. And…

“To her, the kitchen is hostile territory. Don’t pity me – it was wonderful” What’s your favourite dish? Is it roast chicken, steak and kidney pie, lasagne, apple crumble? Perhaps it’s something you’ve enjoyed for as long as you can remember. Perhaps it’s a recipe you learned at your mother’s knee. In 2016, a survey by the food assurance scheme Red Tractor indicated that two thirds of mothers cook recipes taught to them by their own mothers, a third had made one of these inherited recipes in the past month, and almost two thirds said they would hand down these precious family recipes to their own children. If this is true, we’re all probably eating a lot more brown food than Instagram might suggest. When others rhapsodise about their mum’s…

“The delicious. shop was created so we can take the best items from our favourite producers and put them all in one place for you to browse and buy. As well as high-quality artisan food items you’ll find kitchenware and gifts. Here are my top picks this month” JOSS’S FAVOURITE NUTS ABOUT THIS ONE As someone who has a slight obsession with anything praline, this amazing chocolate spread is heaven in a jar. With 45 per cent hazelnuts (compared to 13 per cent in the leading high street hazelnut chocolate spread), plus rich Belgian chocolate, this is a treat to have in the cupboard. Spread on toast, add to cakes and milkshakes or, if you’re anything like me, eat straight from the jar (in secret). Gianduia spread by The Nut…

As the days become longer (and, dare we say it, a little brighter), the first spring flowers bring a touch of colour to the world and excitement gathers for the big Easter bank holiday, starting this year on Friday 30 March. It’s a time to gather with family and friends and cook food that makes you happy – hearty dishes you can put in the oven and forget about and celebration cakes that show you care. Turn the page for delicious. recipes to make your weekend magical…

CELEBRATION MENU FOR 8 Home-smoked salmon with green herb lettuce salad Baked ham with sticky raisin, tamarind and chipotle relish Slivered potatoes with white onion and Lancashire cheese Braised red cabbage with apple and mustard vinaigrette Salted caramel bread ice cream with hot chocolate sauce deliciousmagazine.co.uk “For our family, cooking for the big get-togethers is a communal affair. My mother and I speak on the phone to plan the menu weeks in advance. I love plotting the ebb and flow of the various courses and how to balance them: we often start with something light to whet the appetite before we move on to richer dishes. While we invariably cook with local ingredients we have great fun deciding where we take our inspirations from: Mexico intoxicates us all…

“For me, ingredients are the star of the show and a classic dish is one that shows them off to their best advantage. I like maximum flavour and minimum fuss, where simplicity is the key. Embedded in our own national cuisine are dishes that have been handed down through the generations. This – one of the original one-pot meals – is full of melt-in-the-mouth lamb and tender vegetables all in a rich, flavoursome gravy topped with crisp potatoes.” Mary’s Irish stew SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 40 MIN TO 2 HOURS 10 MIN MAKE AHEAD Assemble the dish (to the end of step 3) up to 8 hours ahead, making sure the potato is covered with stock so it doesn’t dry out or discolour. Cover…

“This is one of Frenchie restaurant’s signature dishes and one we’re proud to share. We created it with Camille Malmquist in 2013, when she was head pastry chef at Frenchie To Go, the takeaway counter in our main Paris restaurant. The savoury-sweet-smoky balance from the combination of smoked bacon and sweet maple syrup makes these little rolls (or scones, if you insist) addictive… Serve them with butter for afternoon tea or as a pre-dinner nibble.” Maple syrup and smoked bacon scones MAKES 25. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN, OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Like most scones these are best eaten on the day they’re made but you can cool them, then wrap in cling film and freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost, then warm briefly in a hot oven…

When Lisa Heathcote was growing up, she had a yearning to be on stage. Instead, she learned to cook and eventually did find her way into the Thespian world – behind the scenes. She’s worked on innumerable productions including Downton Abbey, Call the Midwife, Bridget Jones, Mamma Mia! and Les Mis, among many more. With a mix of challenges like that, there’s little she doesn’t know about cooking for the camera. Here’s a snapshot of one of the most enviable jobs in food. 1 A CALM TEMPERAMENT IS ESSENTIAL You have to be creative, flexible, unflappable, full of energy and very patient. Things change up to the 11th hour: you do a lot of work and then the production team might say, “We aren’t going to do it that way…

Food lovers are gearing up for festival season and delicious. is revving the engine, ready to hit the road with Fisher & Paykel, our partner in the UK-wide delicious. Produce Awards, now in their third year. We couldn’t be more excited, as there’s a nation’s worth of great produce out there to be discovered. At each stop on the way, our expert regional judges have the enviable task of deciding which of the lovingly made food and drink products from their area are best, as they perform the judging for the delicious. Produce Awards. There’ll be lots of fun and a chance to sample some scrumptious local fare. The 2018 regional judging is being overseen by Valentina Harris: chef, broadcaster, cookery teacher and all-round expert. A champion of the UK’s…

GRAB A BARGAIN • Estevez Cabernet Carmenère Syrah 2015, Maule, Chile (£4.79, Aldi) Likeable, laidback red that’s plump with soft, sweetly ripe black cherries. Easy to enjoy on its own, or open for spicy red meat feasts. • Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc 2016, France (£8, down to £6 until 2 April, Marks & Spencer) Great offer on this zesty French white – it’s light at 11.5% too. Chill it for white fish or scallops. • Taste the Difference German Pinot Blanc 2016, Mosel (£7, Sainsbury’s) Modern, dry and well balanced white with aromas and flavours of fresh apples and pears. Try with a quiche or simple pizza. FRIDAY SPECIAL • Les Dauphins Vinsobres 2016, Côtes du Rhône, France (£11.99, down to £8.99 at select branches until 20 March, Waitrose) A rich, sturdy Rhône…

Choosing the right oil for a dish has never been more complicated. As the range available grows, media headlines about the harm or benefits of cooking with them get ever more confusing. So what gives? Sue Quinn looks at the latest developments You could forgive cooks for being confused about which oil is safe to cook with and which is less so. “Cooking with vegetable oils releases toxic cancer-causing chemicals,” one recent newspaper headline said. “Extra-light olive oil and sunflower oil are great options to use when you deep-fry foods,” declared a wellbeing website. Coconut oil is “the number one choice” for frying, according to an online diet service. It’s not just the media creating uncertainty, though. Mounting scientific evidence shows that polyunsaturated oils (vegetable oils that are liquid at…

“I believe that what you choose to put on your plate is the most important health intervention you can make. Ill health is on the rise and, as a doctor, I want to prevent the need for powerful prescription medications or painful procedures and offer a delightful alternative: eating fresh produce and colourful plants to ignite a passion for flavour. The creativity and pleasure of preparing and eating good food are attainable for everyone.” Spiced chicken skewers with apple & pea chutney SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 25-30 MIN, GRILLING TIME 22-25 MIN MAKE AHEAD You can marinate the chicken a day ahead and keep covered in the fridge. Make the chutney up to 2 days in advance and keep in an airtight container in the fridge. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Cherry…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHERE The Bertinet Kitchen Cookery School, Bath ( thebertinetkitchen.com ) THE COURSE An introduction to bread making with Richard Bertinet, £210 for a one-day course (includes lunch and bread to take home) TESTED BY Isabella Bradford WHAT IT’S LIKE Tucked away in the cobbled backstreets of Bath is baker extraordinaire Richard Bertinet’s cookery school, famed for its hands-on bread-making courses. As a novice baker, I was trying the one-day course but serious bread heads can take the two, three and five-day bread-making courses (or specialise in French, Nordic or Italian breads). His classes always sell out. WHAT I LEARNED The class started with the baking essentials: the tools needed (only a plastic scraper, scales, tea towels, a mixing bowl and two hands – not a…

If you’ve never foraged before, wild garlic is the place to start. The smell is unmistakable and the broad, satiny leaves are easy to spot on shady banks FREEZE Stack up the leaves, pack in freezer bags and freeze them whole, ready to chop frozen and add to soup and casserole bases. Wild garlic butter freezes beautifully: chop a handful of wild garlic leaves finely, then whizz with 250g butter. Roll into a log, wrap and freeze. Cut frozen into discs for use on steaks, using a knife warmed in hot water, or defrost and use for garlic bread. PRESERVE The flower buds (with stems) and the stronger-flavoured seed pods can be pickled to add a garlicky punch to salads and dips. Trim the stems of a bunch of buds…

1 FARMED SEA BASS Sold whole or filleted, it’s now Britain’s sixth most popular fish. Most of the bass available in the UK is farmed (in Greece and Turkey) as wild fish are severely threatened. Cooked fillets are white, flaky, sweet and moist. Grill for 3-4 minutes skin-side up or fry for 1-2 minutes in a pan. Great way to cook Choose the largest whole fish you can find and gut it but don’t scale. Put it in a snug ceramic baking dish. Cover the fish completely with cooking salt (you can get large bags from supermarkets) dampened slightly with water. Bake at 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6 for 15-25 minutes depending on size. Check the fish is cooked by pushing a skewer through the crust; the tip should come out piping…

It was late evening. A driver pulled alongside our car, gesturing to roll down the window. His face looked spooky, half-lit by a flickering candle held in his far hand. “Get into Chania soon or you’ll miss it,” he uttered, then drove off, dripping candle still in hand. In the distance, we could hear fireworks exploding. It wasn’t just any flame he held. Candle to candle, this ancient flame had been carried from Jerusalem in the annual ‘holy fire’ ceremony that symbolises peace, eternity and renewal, and is traditionally spread to light every church in Greece on Easter Saturday. It was the last day of Lent, and it was nearly time for Greeks to break 40 days of austerity and fasting. In Chania, in western Crete, shops and tavernas were…

Sausage, fennel and chilli griddle-pan pizza SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you can, use proper Italian sausages, full of fennel and garlic (try Italian delis), then squeeze the meat from the casings. 1smallfennelbulb cut into wedges 2 tbsp olive oil 200g plain flour ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp chilli flakes 200g greek yogurt 200g sausagemeat (see tip) 1 small red onion, sliced 1 large garlic clove, crushed 1 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed 60g young leaf spinach 3 tbsp ricotta 25g parmesan, grated 1 Heat a griddle/frying pan to high. Toss the fennel with 1 tbsp of the oil and griddle for 2-3 minutes on each side until charred and almost tender. 2 Put the flour, baking powder and chilli flakes in a…

The 5-minute recipe 1 Watercress pesto MAKES ENOUGH FOR 400G PASTA In the small bowl of a food processor whizz together 100g bag of watercress, handful of fresh basil leaves, 1 garlic clove, 75g grated pecorino cheese, 5-6 tbsp olive oil, the grated zest and juice of ½ lemon, 50g toasted hazelnuts and a generous pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper (or finely chop the watercress by hand, then pound all the ingredients in a pestle and mortar). Stir into pasta for a quick supper or spread on crostini and top with smoked salmon for a smart nibble. 2 Easy watercress soup Gently fry 1 chopped onion in a pan with a little olive oil for 10 minutes until softened. Add 2 small chopped potatoes, 2 x…

1764 Bath-based physician William Oliver died on 17 March leaving the legacy of the Bath Oliver, a pale, dry cracker. He’s said to have bequeathed the recipe and £100 to his coachman, Atkins, who founded a baking business and made a fortune. 1930 On 12 March Mahatma Gandhi began his 241-mile walk across India to the salt town of Dandi, as a non-violent protest against the British Salt Act, which banned domestic salt production. 1990 Food writer Jane Grigson died on 23 March on the eve of her 62nd birthday. The Observer cookery columnist for 22 years, she once famously advised “clever food isn’t appreciated at Christmas. It makes the little ones cry and the old ones nervous”.…

11-12 MARCH Raw Wine Fair, London Tasting and learning go hand-in-hand at this showcase of natural, organic and biodynamic wines. More than 100 winemakers will be on hand to answer your questions, championing low-intervention vino made with limited processing or additives, and with respect for traditional farming. From £45, including keepsake wine glass; rawwine.com 19-25 MARCH British Dal Festival, Bristol The versatile spiced pulse dish is in the spotlight, with community organisation 91 Ways collecting locals’ recipes for an online library, and Incredible Edible working with volunteers to plant pulses in Bristol’s St James Barton roundabout. Don’t miss the street food market and pulse-themed demo kitchen on Sunday, plus local eateries offering their signature lentil dishes. britishdalfestival.com 31 MARCH TO 2 APRIL Broadstairs Food Festival Spring Fair, Kent…

EATING… CLAMS. I love them and we’re getting to the end of the UK season. Sauté them with garlic, olive oil, two finely chopped bird’s eye chillies, lime juice and fish sauce, then stir into some freshly cooked linguine with a handful of fragrant Thai basil. Thai-talian delight! DRINKING… PICPOUL. As March sees a little extra light in the sky, promising spring, I shall be accompanying the cooking and the eating of those clams with a chilled glass of the very slurpable and citrussy St John Picpoul de Pinet 2016 (£8.35, stjohnrestaurant.com). READING… SUE GRAFTON’S Y IS FOR YESTERDAY. Not a food book, but Sue died before she could finish her Alphabet series of novels. I’ll miss her writing and her heroine Kinsey Millhone. I’ll read it while eating a…

Since launching in 2016 the delicious. Produce Awards have become an established annual event – and this year the awards are going to be bigger and better than ever. WHY OUR AWARDS ARE SO SPECIAL Our Awards are dedicated to unearthing and celebrating the most exciting, innovative and talented small-scale artisan producers from the northernmost tip of Shetland, down to the Isles of Scilly. And, in between, the awards scour every corner of the UK: Northern Ireland, the Isle of Wight, the Channel Islands… In the past two years we’ve discovered and celebrated fantastic people and small businesses, giving them space in delicious. magazine and on our website to tell the world about what they do. It’s inspired you to seek out, taste and cook with their produce (see p26…

THE BOLOGNESY ONE Classic ragù and mozzarella pasta bake SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 25 MIN MAKE AHEAD Assemble the bake up to 2 days ahead and keep covered in the fridge until ready to cook, adding an extra 10-15 minutes to the oven time. Or make the sauce and freeze in a sealed food bag for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge before using. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you’re feeding vegetarian guests make a veggie bolognese sauce (find a recipe at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/recipes/vegetable-bolognese) and use that instead of the meaty one; and swap the parmesan at the end for a vegetarian hard grating cheese. 400gleanBritishbeefmince Glug olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 2 red onions, chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stick, finely…

“This dish epitomises good home cooking. Shoulder is one of the cheaper cuts of lamb, yet slow cooking renders it tender, juicy and incredibly tasty. Maman Blanc, my mother, never used stock – just water, herbs and a splash of wine to create delectable flavours. For the petits pois, freshly picked young peas are wonderful, but when those aren’t in season, frozen peas are good too.” Slow-roasted shoulder of lamb with petits pois à la française SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MINUTES, OVEN TIME 4½ HOURS, PLUS MARINATING FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you can’t find lamb bones it will still be great. Use carrots or celery sticks under the meat instead. 15kglambshoulder plus 700g lamb bones and trimmings (see tip above and Raymond’s tips, below right) 2 fresh rosemary…

THE MASTER RECIPE SERVES 10-12. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, OVEN TIME 21-28 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Make the toffee filling up to 3 days in advance and keep in a sealed jar or tub in the fridge. Don’t put into the tart case or it will go soggy. Instead, bake the case 1-2 days ahead and store in a tin or wrapped in foil, then assemble. FOR THE PASTRY 175g plain flour, plus extra to dust 50g icing sugar 90g chilled butter, diced 1 medium free-range egg yolk FOR THE TOFFEE FILLING 115g butter 115g light muscovado sugar 397g tin Carnation Caramel ½ tsp sea salt (optional) FOR THE TOPPING 300ml double cream 1 tsp instant coffee powder (not granules) 2 tsp caster sugar 4largeor5medium ripe bananas 30g…

The alternative simnel cake Caramelised white chocolate, burnt butter and tahini cake By Bake Off champ John Whaite SERVES 20. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 20-25 MIN, PLUS CHILLING “Caramelised white chocolate reminds me of the Caramac bars I enjoyed as a child. The sweetness lends itself to more bitter notes, and after playing around with a few things (including Marmite – unsuccessfully) I discovered that tahini’s nuttiness was just right.” MAKE AHEAD This cake is best on the day it’s baked but you can wrap the sponges in cling film and freeze for up to a month. 150gwhitechocolatewe used Waitrose Belgian white chocolate), chopped 300g unsalted butter, diced Grated zest 1 lemon 300g caster sugar 300g self-raising flour 6 large free-range…

“The scientific name for the cockle family has its root in the ancient Greek for things related to the heart: καρδία (cardia). Perhaps it’s the heart-like shape of their corrugated shells that earned them this name, or perhaps it had more to do with the hard-working muscle inside – reminiscent of a heart and so good to eat, especially at this time of year. Maybe Molly Malone could tell us the answer – she of the Irish song, who famously sold cockles and mussels ‘alive, alive, oh!’ in Dublin’s fair city. Judging from that atmospheric ode, she must have known a lot about her produce. I’ve always enjoyed cooking and eating cockles. At their best they’re sweet, plump and meaty – and full of character. The adornment of vinegar, although…

PRICE-SAVVY MIDWEEK Satisfying crowd-pleasers that are kind to your purse – as well as your waistline BATCH COOK RECIPE Creamy white sauce gets a second run in an easy chicken and broccoli pie SOUP OF THE MONTH Make soup the main event with this hearty rendition of spaghetti and meatballs TAKE A PACK… Four brilliant dishes that hinge on ready-cooked basmati rice…

30-minute chicken and cauliflower curry SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Cooking for one? Cover and chill the second portion for 2-3 days or freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge before reheating until piping hot. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Try tikka or madras curry paste, or use rose harissa for a North African flavour. 1tspvegetableoil 2 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, sliced ½ onion, chopped 1 red pepper, sliced ¼ cauliflower, cut into florets 3 tbsp bhuna curry paste (see tip) 250mlvegetablestock 200g chopped tomatoes 1 fresh bay leaf Handful fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped, to garnish ½ lemon, cut into wedges to serve 1 Heat the oil in a non-stick pan, then fry the chicken and onion with a pinch of salt for…

Banh mi (Vietnamese baguette) MAKES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, PLUS 15 MIN CHILLING MAKE AHEAD This sandwich gets better after a couple of hours, so you can make it in the morning or even the night before and chill until ready to eat. The filling and middle will become soft but the baguette will remain crusty on the outside. Wrap in baking paper, then in a layer of cling film. carrot peeled into ribbons ¼ cucumber, peeled into ribbons ½ red onion, finely sliced Juice ½ lime ½ tsp sweet chilli sauce 1 tsp fish sauce 1 small baguette or ¼ french stick 1 tbsp mayonnaise 1 heaped tsp char siu or hoisin sauce (we used Blue Dragon) 80g leftover roast beef, chicken or cooked prawns Handful fresh…

“These recipes offer a riot of taste, colour and texture. They’re all mouthwatering dishes that just happen to be vegan, inspired by cuisines from around the world and based on new ideas, flavours and techniques. Whether they’re enjoyed all the time, or from time to time, they’ll ensure your taste buds are well and truly alive and kicking.” JANE MUIR, FOUNDER OF MILDREDS Cashew and smoked tofu potsticker gyoza MAKES 16-20 (SERVES 4). HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS 5-12 HOURS DRAINING “Consistently one of our most popular starters. They aren’t complicated to assemble but the filling must be relatively dry. You can swap the smoked tofu for regular firm tofu, add more spice or change the cashews for peanuts.” MAKE AHEAD Once assembled and before cooking, the dumplings will keep,…

MEET OUR E XPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor LOTTIE COVELL Acting food lifestyle editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer XANTHE CLAY Chef, writer, and preserves & freezing queen CHEF’S STEP BY STEP p131 These sticky, spiced hot cross buns from Gail’s bakery will put an Easter smile on everyone’s face delicious. KITCHEN p126 Cookery tips and tricks, including how to make your own marzipan (p129) MASTER THE DARK ARTS p127 Top chocolatier Paul A Young dispels the many myths about cooking with chocolate…

Nervous about working with the brown stuff this Easter? Chocolatier Paul A Young shares his wisdom WORKING WITH CHOCOLATE IS DIFFICULT Although skills such as tempering (melting and cooling chocolate to improve the texture and appearance) take time to master, simple truffles or a glossy chocolate tart are easy to make. Just remember that chocolate needs to be handled gently. Warm it slowly using a bain-marie or heatproof bowl set over hot water (don’t let the bowl touch the water) and leave it as it melts. Once melted, cool it gently. WATER IS AN ENEMY OF MELTED CHOCOLATE It depends. A tiny drop of water can make melting chocolate clump and seize. But you can melt chocolate in a large quantity of water to make a silky smooth emulsion or…

“In the pressurised environment of a restaurant kitchen, female leadership, with its talent-nurturing skills and empathetic qualities, is welcome” It’s no secret that preparing, talking about, looking at and enjoying good food is popular among the female half of society – apparently three quarters of delicious. readers are women. So I never fail to be surprised – dismayed is a better word – at the lack of young women training to become chefs. There’s no shortage of talented women getting to the top in restaurant management, often working their way up from waitressing to be in charge of a dynamic front-of-house operation. So why not cheffing? Ten years ago, my ex-husband Rick Stein and I started an apprenticeship scheme for chefs in Cornwall. In all that time, the number of…