Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2025 i Decanter

Making every sip count My passion for wine has brought me immense pleasure over the years – since the early 1990s, when I took courses as a hobby and used to pay £5 to attend the Oddbins wine fairs. It has enhanced countless social occasions and is at the centre of many lasting memories. There have been periods when I’ve had to give up alcohol – for health or child-bearing reasons – and at other times, my philosophy has been to get the most from every sip. If the only wine on offer is mediocre, I’ll pass; if I’m not enjoying a wine, I’ll stop drinking it; and I’m still teased, 10 years on, for bringing my own wine glasses on a camping trip (though my friends were secretly delighted).…

The last three words in the email were shocking: ‘We face annihilation.’ Yet the island wines made by the grower who wrote them are acclaimed, long-established and sell in the UK without difficulty at above £30. Things, clearly, were amiss. ‘We face three challenges,’ said Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, the email’s author, when I caught up with him and fellow grower Stellios Boutaris in early 2025, shortly before the February earthquakes that added to Santorini’s simmering stresses. Yiannis co-owns the 13ha Gaia winery, while Stellios’ Ktima Kir-Yianni has recently become the owner of the 40ha Domaine Sigalas winery, as well as partnering with Paris Sigalas for his new Santorini venture Oeno P. ‘Lack of rain, manpower and tourism.’ Together they make a cocktail toxic enough to call into question a future for…

While I was researching this article, it quickly became apparent that discussing alcohol consumption and moderation wouldn’t be a straightforward affair. Stakeholders come to the table with assumptions, agendas and moral viewpoints that often cloud the objective interpretation of studies and data – which, as I discovered, have many gaps and flaws themselves. Particularly problematic is that some of the key concepts at the core of the discussion (risk, excess, wellbeing – moderation itself) mean different things to different people. Embracing complexity Because individual agendas, assumptions and background were a recurring theme, it’s perhaps useful to begin by stating – clearly and humbly – the premises with which I arrived at this subject myself. Wine is part of my diet, a companion to meals (not every day). I see wine…

Centred around the cathedral city of Winchester, ancient capital of England, with the Isle of Wight off the coast to the south, Hampshire is known for the rolling chalk hills of the South Downs, the mystic woodlands of the New Forest and three river valleys: (from west to east) the Test, the Itchen and the Meon. These ancient, crystal-clear chalk streams are the veins and backbones of the county – shaping the landscape, nurturing farmland and offering clear, tranquil waters famed for fly-fishing. Some of the region’s well-exposed slopes, with their shallow topsoil and free-draining belemnite chalk – the same type found in Champagne’s Côte des Blancs sub-region – are also home to ranks of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay vines, Champagne’s three main varieties, that are now producing some…

Growing up in Napa Valley, Maya Dalla Valle had no intention of working in wine. ‘I was convinced for a long time that I was going to be a professional dressage rider,’ says the winemaker and director of Dalla Valle Vineyards in Napa, California. Her passion for horses began at the age of six after her babysitter took her for a ride. She was hooked, spending every free moment at the barn. By 10 years old, she was participating in dressage competitions. Dalla Valle’s initial disinterest in wine was understandable. ‘You’re entrenched in the industry, and as a rebellious kid, you think, “This can’t be my destiny.” Turns out I was wrong,’ she says, laughing. It felt personal as she watched world-class equestrian centres such as the Silverado Horseman’s Center…

At the time of writing, it’s five weeks since my last glass of wine. Among my friends, that’s not unusual – but it is for me. Normally, I’m the exception – one of the few people I know who almost always has a bottle of wine open and a glass with dinner most nights. I also – shock! horror! – have no qualms about drinking alone. I always had day(s) off, the odd week or two, but never a proper stint and I wanted to see how I felt booze-free. These days, more and more people are doing something similar. With this in mind, I picked up Edward Slingerland’s Drunk (Little, Brown Spark, 2021) – a book that feels more relevant than ever. Subtitled ‘How we sipped, danced and stumbled…

Ask Decanter Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your queries to editor@decanter.com How to host Q I want to host a wine tasting party at home for a group of friends. Can you share some tips for a successful evening? Greg Mansfield, London A Elisa Morris, wine event host (morrwine.co.uk), replies: Wine tastings at home, or as part of a weekend away with friends, are becoming more popular as people look to have ‘an experience’ with their friends rather than simply a casual meet-up. A typical wine tasting I would host features six wines along with some snacks, such as cheese and charcuterie. Guests gain an insight into how to taste and appreciate wine, features of different wine styles and guidance on what to look out…

Chassaux et Fils, Specially Selected, Crémant de Loire Brut, France NV £8.99 Aldi Before New Year’s, Aldi slashed the price of this to £4.99 and restricted sales to two bottles per customer. Even at full price it’s one of Aldi’s best sparklings, with lively bubbles, the honeyed sweetness of ripe red apples and mineral acidity. TG Alc 12% Barossa Boy, Adam, Who? Riesling, Eden Valley, South Australia 2023 £13.95 Corney & Barrow Trent Burge, sixth generation of Barossa’s famous winemaking family, makes modern interpretations of classic Barossa styles. This off-dry Riesling is finely poised, with orchard fruit and guava, lime blossom, and an underlying minerality. AW Alc 11.5% Baron Amarillo, Specially Selected Godello, Bierzo, Spain 2024 £9.99 Aldi My top-scoring white from Aldi’s spring/summer line-up is now in store, so…

Rare wines attract strong bidding... A55-year-old case of Petrus and Burgundies from the 1990s have led a Christie’s auction of wines from the cellars of late watch pioneer Jörg G Bucherer. Christie’s said all 233 lots were sold. It also reported strong demand from younger collectors, with 33% of buyers belonging to the Millennial and Gen Z age groups. Top lots included a 12-bottle collection of Petrus 1970 in its original wooden case (OWC), which sold for £32,500, including buyer’s premium (pre-sale high estimate: £26,000). Six magnums of the legendary Château Haut-Brion 1989 fetched £22,500 (high e: £20,000). From Burgundy, 1999-vintage reds from Domaine Leroy led the way. These included cases (12x75cl, OWC) of: Romanée-St-Vivant 1999, sold for £62,500 (high e: £60,000); Latricières-Chambertin 1999, sold for £43,750 (high e: £38,000);…

GARETH BIRCHLEY Who? Gareth is buying director at London-based Burns & German Vintners. After moving to London in 2006, he worked in sales and senior buying roles at Bordeaux Index and Berry Bros & Rudd, before joining Burns & German in early 2019 What? Gareth reports back on this year’s 10-years-on tasting with Bordeaux Index, finding two 100-point 2015s among an impressive selection overall. He also charts the years ending in ‘5’ to try to understand why it’s apparently Bordeaux’s lucky number Why? Ten years on is a great time to check in on top Bordeaux’s evolution. Many second wines are at peak drinking, while the best are usually just getting started VALERIA TENISON Who? Widely experienced as a manager of and sommelier in hotels and restaurants from Russia to…

In recent years with warmer vintages, it has become easier to appreciate the freshening power of St-Emilion’s famous limestone plateau. The beating heart of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, this geological marvel is defined by its calcium-rich, asteriated limestone (calcaire à astéries, or ‘starfish limestone’), forming the backbone of wines known for freshness, salinity and ageworthy elegance: a rocky hotspot that’s essentially grape royalty! While the plateau stretches 17km from St-Emilion to Castillon, just 8.2km fall within the appellation. Its porous limestone beneath clay or loam acts like a sponge – draining excess moisture in wet seasons and releasing it during drought. This fosters balanced vine growth and low pH/vibrant acidity in wines, yielding reds with notes of mint, chalk and graphite. Historically, the western plateau near St-Emilion town centre (see map,…

In stark contrast to last year’s article damning the majority of the decade milestone vintages throughout the 1960s and ’70s, everyone celebrating a decennial anniversary in 2025 is of far greater fortune… well, almost everyone. If I were to put down some of my cold, hard sterling on the outcome of 2025 being a successful Bordeaux vintage, history tells me that that’s as safe a bet as I could make in the world of wine. When we look back at the embarrassment of riches that the median vintage of each decade has given us, the ‘fives’ are almost always a contender for the finest vintage of the era. 2015 They say that Bordeaux no longer has good vintages and bad vintages, just easy vintages and difficult ones. While it would…

Bordeaux, long revered as the world’s wine capital, is constantly evolving. While the city has always been synonymous with its grand châteaux and prestigious wine heritage, its urban landscape has transformed into a dynamic hub for wine lovers. The local wine scene extends beyond the vineyards, embracing a new generation of bars, shops and innovative experiences catering to connoisseurs and curious newcomers. Whether you’re searching for a deep dive into Bordeaux’s celebrated appellations, a rare bottle from beyond the region, or a fresh perspective on wine culture, the city has something to offer. With an ever-growing gastronomic influence and a dedication to both tradition and modernity, Bordeaux is a paradise for anyone passionate about wine. From groundbreaking no- and low-alcohol concepts to high-tech sustainability efforts, these 10 must-visit destinations showcase…

It’s fair to say that expectations were high going into this Left Bank grand cru classé tasting, with the 2016 vintage hailed as one of the region’s finest in recent decades, celebrated for its balance, structure and ageing potential. What began as a wet, soggy spring turned into a long, hot and exceptionally dry summer with refreshing rains just before ideal harvest conditions set in. The result: concentrated reds with ripe tannins, bright acidity and intense fruit, drawing comparisons to 2005 and 2010 but distinguished by vibrant freshness. A clearly successful tasting, with 20% of wines achieving the Outstanding rating, reassuringly identical to the St-Emilion GCC 2016 panel tasting in our 2023 Bordeaux guide (with 11 outstanding out of 59 wines). Robert Mathias MW noted: ‘There’s a really good minimum…

Bordeaux is famous for its ageworthy reds, but its dry white wines are having a moment. To crib from a well-known US folk artist, ‘the times they are a changin’ with regards to these typically Sauvignon Blanc- or Semillon-dominant white wines. Although close to 90% of Bordeaux’s 110,000ha under vine are still made up of red grape varieties, production and demand for the region’s dry whites continues to rise. While the Left Bank is a stronghold for dry white Bordeaux, there is more to the region than just Pessac-Léognan and Graves, with many emerging areas where specific cooler sites – often freshened by the presence of limestone – yield exciting, vibrant wines. Indeed, a new Médoc Blanc appellation has been approved for wines bottled in 2025 (subject to an objection…

ROGER JONES Who? The retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire, Roger is a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on the New World What? In this month’s guest column, Roger urges readers not to paint all New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with the same brush Why? New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has been a victim of its own success. But the mass of identikit generic bottlings that are so widely available shouldn’t lead you to shun the category entirely, Roger argues – or you may miss out SYLVIA WU Who? Decanter’s Regional Editor covering the UK, and Editor of DecanterChina.com, Sylvia trained as a journalist in Beijing and the UK. She…

The allure of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc shows no sign of fading, but recently I’ve noticed a growing disparity between quality and quantity in this iconic category. Back in January 2024, I took part in a three-day Decanter panel tasting of NZ Sauvignons that highlighted stark contrasts in craftsmanship and style. It left me pondering: has the magic of New Zealand, and especially Marlborough, faded? It’s a fair question. The success of NZ Sauvignon Blanc on a global scale mirrors the rise – and subsequent fall – of Australian Chardonnay in the early 2000s. Back then, the market was flooded with cheap, overly oaked examples that sullied the reputation of Australian Chardonnay. In New Zealand’s case, mass production and homogenised flavours threaten to undermine the hard work of artisanal producers.…

For those of us who love wine, it can sometimes feel as though your life revolves around it: your social circle, your topics of conversation, your magazine choices. This is even more the case for sommeliers, for whom the act of uncorking a bottle at 11am wouldn’t raise an eyebrow. But if, as studies would have us believe, consumers are drinking less or even stopping entirely, is it beyond imagination that this trend towards moderation might percolate into the world of sommeliers? Not long ago, the idea of a ‘sober sommelier’ would have been almost unimaginable, but today, they are real and walk among us. ‘There is a trend towards moderation and healthier consumption, particularly among younger generations,’ says Federica Zanghirella, vice president of the UK Sommelier Association. ‘We see…

Havana Club launches Tributo 2025 Cuban rum producer Havana Club has announced the latest addition to its Icónica Collection. Tributo 2025 has been created in collaboration with Ireland’s Midleton Distillery. Limited to just 2,967 bottles worldwide, the ultra-premium Cuban rum is finished in Redbreast Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey casks. ‘By finishing this rum in Redbreast whiskey casks, we introduce a new dimension to our craft, uniting the finest Cuban rum and Irish whiskey traditions to create a truly extraordinary expression,’ said Asbel Morales, Maestro del Ron Cubano (Cuban rum master), the creative force behind the Tributo series. David McCabe, Midleton’s master blender, added: ‘Redbreast and the Maestros del Ron Cubano share a deep respect for traditional knowhow, the transmission of expertise and the relentless pursuit of excellence. This collaboration…

Torbreck’s heritage vines JULIE SHEPPARD I recently met with winemaker Ian Hongell of Torbreck, who was in town for the 2025 release of the Barossa producer’s top wines, including The Steading, The Struie and Descendant. Noting that he’s just finished his 40th vintage, he quipped: ‘I’m starting to get the hang of it now…’ Alongside the latest releases, we tasted a vertical of RunRig, a stunning Shiraz made exclusively from heritage clones. Barossa is home to some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world, with plantings dating back to 1843. ‘We’ve been trying to resurrect old vineyards that were derelict,’ explains Hongell. ‘These grapes have a resilience that modern clones don’t have,’ he adds. Grapes are sourced from six sites in Lyndoch, Rowland Flat, Moppa, Ebenezer, Light Pass and…

Waitrose, No1 Brut Special Reserve Vintage, Champagne, France 2018 £39 Waitrose Produced by Castelnau, this delivers a lot for the price. A fleshy core of white peach, pear, apricot and melon is cloaked in buttery brioche, salted caramel and lemon curd. All held by firm, creamy acid. Hints of almond and candied lemon. IS Alc 12.5% Knebel, Alte Reben Riesling, Mosel, Germany 2023 £38.10 The WineBarn Sourced from 60-80-year-old terraced vineyards on slate. A mineral nose of petrol and nectarine leads into a honeyed, waxy undertone on a rich palate of ripe stone fruits, seasoned with a pinch of white pepper spice and lifted by zingy green citrus. SW Alc 11.5% Domaine Bargylus, Grand Vin de Syrie Rouge, Syria 2016 £34.95-£48 92 or More, Hedonism, JN Wine, Nickolls & Perks,…

WINERY PET OF THE MONTH Name Violet Breed Yellow Labrador Age 5 Owner Dave Shein, vineyard manager at Silver Oak, and Amy Shein, tasting room manager at Miner Family Winery, both in Oakville, California Likes Running in the vineyard, fetching tennis balls, catching treats in mid-air Dislikes Loud noises, skipping meals, having her teeth brushed Hobbies Paddle boarding, chasing geese, snoozing in Amy’s lap Favourite food Popcorn, veggie scraps from the chopping board, any kind of treat Party Trick Facetiming with the family, waiting for her verbal cue before eating CRISP & WINE MATCH Crisp Prawn Cocktail Skips / Lister’s Prawn Cocktail / Tayto Prawn Cocktail Wine style Sparkling rosé Why it works The sweet, tomato sauce-laden and faint coastal fishiness of a prawn cocktail crisp heightens the ripe freshness…

Marks & Spencer, Etoile de Timberlay, Crémant de Bordeaux Brut NV 89 £10 Ocado Great value for a traditional-method sparkling, this is an ideal bottle to have chilling in the fridge for weekday toasting or to buy by the case for a party. It’s fresher and crisper than Prosecco, but still boasts lovely ripe fruit – think juicy red apple underscored by tropical hints and a lemony, herbal edge. Tina Gellie Drink 2025 Alcohol 12% Château Reynier, Blanc, Bordeaux 2024 90 £12.95 Davy’s US$29 Millesima USA Produced by Marc and Agnès Lurton, of one of the great Bordeaux wine-growing families, from a vineyard situated in Grezillac, in Bordeaux’s famed Entredeux-Mers region, planted on slopes in outstanding clay-limestone terroir. This lovely, dry, crisp and fruity wine, made from a blend of…

For many wine lovers around the world, Bordeaux is synonymous with fine wine. Steeped in history and prestige, this renowned French region has long attracted foreign entrepreneurs. In the late 2000s, there was a surge in château buyouts by Chinese investors, with widespread reports from 2015 putting Chinese ownership at that point at about 1.5% of the region’s 7,000 estates. That trend is now in reverse, with changing market conditions, falling Chinese domestic demand and financial restrictions meaning that many of those properties are appearing back on the market. Wherever purchasers come from, establishing a presence in Bordeaux remains challenging. Vineyard land prices are high, regulations are strict, and navigating the region’s complex appellation system can be daunting. Yet, expat winemakers are finding ways to make their mark, whether by…

In the heart of Pauillac, where gravelly soils yield some of the world’s most revered wines, Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy sits as the steady hand guiding the legendary first growth Château Mouton Rothschild and its fifth growth sister estates Château Clerc Milon and Château d’Armailhac (pictured, p46). Holding one of Bordeaux’s most coveted roles, he balances a dynastic family’s winemaking history and heritage with nature’s neverending challenges amid a constant demand for excellence. It’s no mean feat, yet his warm smile and unassuming charm make it seem effortless. Trained in Napa Valley before taking the helm in Pauillac, he exudes a quiet confidence with enthusiastic energy and zero ego. There are no airs and graces, no grand gestures – just a thoughtful, sincere approach to a demanding role: leading three estates to…

There’s been a radical shift within the Sauternes region over the past decade. A producer once told me: ‘As an indulgence, you can take a mistress or buy an estate in Sauternes. But nobody can afford to do both.’ He was alluding, of course, to the completely uneconomic proposition of producing Sauternes. Yields are minuscule – one third of those for red Bordeaux, if you’re lucky – and its production is entirely dependent on the caprices of the climate. Unripe grapes, the lack of noble rot (Botrytis cinerea), rain at harvest, insect infestation – all can wipe out, or diminish, a crop. Moreover, it’s hard to sell, thanks to a misconception that Sauternes is heavy and syrupy. Those who relish a fine wine from Château Climens or Sigalas Rabaud among…

‘AT CLOUDY BAY, THERE’S CHANGE, BUT NO CHANGE’David Hohnen (right) David Hohnen calls it the ‘eyebrow effect’. ‘You watch them shoot up as soon as they put their nose in a glass,’ he says, chuckling. Back in 1985, the Cloudy Bay founder leveraged that instant reaction to gain a foothold in UK independent retail for his inaugural vintage. As savvy a storyteller as he is a winemaker, Hohnen also sent samples abroad with a jar of Marlborough green-lipped mussels, telling recipients to get a corkscrew and some fresh, crusty bread. The UK market took off and soon eyebrows were lifting worldwide. Cloudy Bay’s story began in 1983, when Hohnen, an Australian winemaker at Cape Mentelle in Margaret River, encountered the eyebrow effect himself. Visiting New Zealand winemakers left him a…

This was a small but illuminating tasting of a category that harks back to the turn of the century. At that time, South Africa’s winemakers were searching for a uniquely Cape-accented answer to internationally popular Bordeaux and Rhône blends. Naturally, they turned to Pinotage – a variety created in, and then almost exclusively sold to, the Cape – which provided a way to distinguish South Africa’s red blends from those of other regions. Pinotage is a tricky grape that has struggled to find its identity as a varietal wine, but our tasting suggested that it does work well in a blend. ‘Many of the wines were improved by having Pinotage,’ Roger Jones observed. ‘Blending may be a good way forward for the variety.’ However, with proportions of Pinotage ranging from…

The United States has long been a land of innovation – and, increasingly, of serious winemaking ambition. In the early years, few could have predicted how far American wine would travel on the world stage. That changed in 1976, when the late Steven Spurrier, a revered figure in the wine world and a founding Decanter contributor, organised the now-iconic Judgement of Paris. The results of the blind tasting shocked the industry, with Californian wines triumphing over top French names, and opened the door to global recognition for a new generation of producers. Blind tastings have also become a hallmark, forming a fundamental core of the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) and wine tastings globally ever since. Nearly 50 years later, American wines are still on the rise. This past year,…

Bordeaux wine is better than it’s ever been, and above a certain level it’s basically flawless. Talk to just about anyone involved in making it, and they’ll put this down to one simple word: precision. For a long time and until relatively recently, making Bordeaux was not an entirely scientific endeavour. Whether in the vines or vats, there was an acceptance that occasionally things just happened, or didn’t, that were beyond the producer’s control. Sometimes that worked in their favour, yielding a wine-of-the-vintage contender. Sometimes it went the other way, and they had a crop of crap. It’s different today. Châteaux have qualified agronomists, agricultural engineers and oenologists on staff, and these disciplines are far better understood. There’s a constant flow of interns from winemaking schools around the world. These…

Appraising the best of Bordeaux as the wines approach 10 years old is always a fascinating exercise. We often underplay the longevity of these wines from the most lauded of regions, perhaps because we have lost the patience to wait, or, perhaps we are influenced by so many regions making styles that are so instantly appealing. At the decade mark, depending on the style of the vintage, you see the more approachable wines starting to hit their long-lived peak and the very finest wines starting to wake from their slumber. I should add, this is not always the case, certainly not with vintages such as 2005 or 1986, where the wines can lay dormant for decades, leaving us to wonder whether they’ll ever open. 2015, thankfully, isn’t crafted from that…